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Tutorial: Repair cracked handles/shafts in Gillette Old Types etc.

I'm about to try and fix a handle with an end-to-end crack and could use some advice on clamps. The finish on my handle is in good shape but the tube seems to be very "sprung" (i.e., a wide crack that is hard to close by hand). As a result, I'm not sure that I can get away with just zip ties or, at least, need something to hold the crack closed until I can sufficiently tighten the ties. Any suggestions?
You could just follow my advise in the OP. The clamps I use make the job quite simple. A small investment up-front. Clamps positioned correctly also allow easy cleaning (seepage) of the handle. You will also see a full length crack, and double crack repaired.

I don't use zip ties. Marine epoxy is also easy to use, and does not expand.
 
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You could just follow my advise in the OP. The clamps I use make the job quite simple. A small investment up-front. Clamps positioned correctly also allow easy cleaning (seepage) of the handle. You will also see a full length crack, and double crack repaired.

I don't use zip ties. Marine epoxy is also easy to use, and does not expand.

I’m getting ready to tackle a handle repair and was wondering about JB Weld. I used the stuff to fix a broken post once and it is solid like a rock. Terrific thread by the way.
 
I’m getting ready to tackle a handle repair and was wondering about JB Weld. I used the stuff to fix a broken post once and it is solid like a rock. Terrific thread by the way.

Make sure you have the alcohol present when using JB weld. Never thought that it whas able to clean that good and fast.
 
Make sure you have the alcohol present when using JB weld. Never thought that it whas able to clean that good and fast.

Thanks, that was my main concern, that and how thick it is. I immediately thought of it because of how strong the stuff is. It fixed my post perfectly but it looks a bit ugly.
 
Thanks, that was my main concern, that and how thick it is. I immediately thought of it because of how strong the stuff is. It fixed my post perfectly but it looks a bit ugly.

The thickness can be a bit of a problem. You need to let the trapped air escape so there isn't any pressure from within to push the JB weld out.

Look how nice and even the JB weld came out of the barrel after inserting the knob at the top.

 
I had to repair the handle for my Long Comb New.
My "inner tube" (so to speak) was a sawed-off length of aluminum barrel of a defunct mechanical pencil. Thin and light, with a hexagonal cross-section and some stamped knurling for the epoxy to stick to.
The original mass of the whole razor was 53 g, and now it's still only 55 g.
So, yay! because I like light razors.
 
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I had to repair the handle for my Long Comb New.
My "inner tube" (so to speak) was a sawed-off length of aluminum barrel of a defunct mechanical pencil. Thin and light, with a hexagonal cross-section and some stamped knurling for the epoxy to stick to.
The original mass of the whole razor was 53 g, and now it's still only 55 g.
So, yay! because I like light razors.

Looks nice and clean :a14:
 
Looks nice and clean :a14:
Um ... That's because the photo only shows the original good side, now that I think of it.
The epoxy I used was dark grey, almost black for some reason, and a little bit of it did ooze through the crack.
I just wanted it to be usable, so no big deal.

My two greatest concerns in the undertaking were:
  1. determining if the stamped lettering on one of the smooth bands went towards the ball end or the head end. Most pictures I found had it at the ball end.
  2. making sure there was not so much epoxy on the head end that it would be pushed up into the threads. I forget exactly what I did, but I think I stuck a dot of tape on the bottom of the threaded end, for insurance. I'm a belt & suspenders kinda' guy when it comes to irreversible procedures.
 

FarmerTan

"Self appointed king of Arkoland"
Um ... That's because the photo only shows the original good side, now that I think of it.
The epoxy I used was dark grey, almost black for some reason, and a little bit of it did ooze through the crack.
I just wanted it to be usable, so no big deal.

My two greatest concerns in the undertaking were:
  1. determining if the stamped lettering on one of the smooth bands went towards the ball end or the head end. Most pictures I found had it at the ball end.
  2. making sure there was not so much epoxy on the head end that it would be pushed up into the threads. I forget exactly what I did, but I think I stuck a dot of tape on the bottom of the threaded end, for insurance. I'm a belt & suspenders kinda' guy when it comes to irreversible procedures.
Splendid job! I've been gifted one by @Tanuki that I will more than likely repair like this in the winter.
 
Um ... That's because the photo only shows the original good side, now that I think of it.
The epoxy I used was dark grey, almost black for some reason, and a little bit of it did ooze through the crack.
I just wanted it to be usable, so no big deal.

My two greatest concerns in the undertaking were:
  1. determining if the stamped lettering on one of the smooth bands went towards the ball end or the head end. Most pictures I found had it at the ball end.
  2. making sure there was not so much epoxy on the head end that it would be pushed up into the threads. I forget exactly what I did, but I think I stuck a dot of tape on the bottom of the threaded end, for insurance. I'm a belt & suspenders kinda' guy when it comes to irreversible procedures.

I closed the threaded part by using a tiny bit of cloth as an plug inside the hole before the rest of the repair.

 
Hi everyone, I have a Gillette New Canada with a handle that separates from the threaded portion when tightening it on. It's not super loose or anything, and the handle has no cracks. Is it OK to just JB Weld this on after cleaning the mating surfaces? Thanks!

IMG_0219.jpeg
 
Looked all over the internet and came across this thread and figured I came to the right place. So I have a 1912 GEM Razor that I restored and started using a few months ago until today. I was replacing the blade and the little piece that helps secure the blade bent and cracked barely hanging on. Does the epoxy solution still apply to something like this or is there a different solution, I added some pictures to help better describe my situation, new to this sort of stuff haha... 😅

image.jpg
image.jpg

ps. what should I use to shine this up once I repair this piece?
 
R

romsitsa

Ahhh, did not know that, thanks for letting me know!

Even advertisements showed the patent info upside down (and too many are upside down) so I think it was deliberate by Gillette. But I have no clue why.
Soldering it back would be less messy.
 
Even advertisements showed the patent info upside down (and too many are upside down) so I think it was deliberate by Gillette. But I have no clue why.
Soldering it back would be less messy.

I have tried, but cannot if my life depended on it, remove the ball end from the barrel.

I’m not crazy about the ergonomics of the handle so I’m not messing with it!
 
Looked all over the internet and came across this thread and figured I came to the right place. So I have a 1912 GEM Razor that I restored and started using a few months ago until today. I was replacing the blade and the little piece that helps secure the blade bent and cracked barely hanging on. Does the epoxy solution still apply to something like this or is there a different solution, I added some pictures to help better describe my situation, new to this sort of stuff haha... 😅

View attachment 1157826View attachment 1157831
ps. what should I use to shine this up once I repair this piece?
You might get better results just starting your own thread. A lot of people just skim posts. You also might try posted it in the Single Edge Forum.
 
R

romsitsa

I have tried, but cannot if my life depended on it, remove the ball end from the barrel.

I’m not crazy about the ergonomics of the handle so I’m not messing with it!

You can do two things.
If one end is loose, remove it and insert a brass or hardwood rod into the handel, hammer out the other end.
Grab a dull knife, place the blade into the recess between handle and neck/ball end which you want to remove. Push the knife down into the recess and roll the handle back and forth, it will slightly separate, just take your time. Then you can hammer it out with a rod or pull it out.
Sometimes the inner part of the bottom knob is slightly tapered, so it can crack the handle if removed.
 
R

romsitsa

I have tried, but cannot if my life depended on it, remove the ball end from the barrel.

I’m not crazy about the ergonomics of the handle so I’m not messing with it!

You can do two things.
If one end is loose, remove it and insert a brass or hardwood rod into the handel, hammer out the other end.
Grab a dull knife, place the blade into the recess between handle and neck/ball end which you want to remove. Push the knife down into the recess and roll the handle back and forth, it will slightly separate, just take your time. Then you can hammer it out with a rod or pull it out.
Sometimes the inner part of the bottom knob is slightly tapered, so it can crack the handle if removed.
Looked all over the internet and came across this thread and figured I came to the right place. So I have a 1912 GEM Razor that I restored and started using a few months ago until today. I was replacing the blade and the little piece that helps secure the blade bent and cracked barely hanging on. Does the epoxy solution still apply to something like this or is there a different solution, I added some pictures to help better describe my situation, new to this sort of stuff haha... 😅

View attachment 1157826View attachment 1157831
ps. what should I use to shine this up once I repair this piece?

You can solder it back, but it won't be a really durable joint. Or visit a jeweller and ask for a quote for hard solder or even better, laser welding. I suspect it won't be cheap but more durable than the base metal.
Epoxy could also work, but the glue "blob" will be visible.
 
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