Tutorial: Repair cracked handles/shafts in Gillette Old Types etc.

[Flying Dutchman]

24 ours later, Old Type number 2 is done.
First pic shows the crack running from top to bottom, the second pic the other way.
Total new weight is 69 grams.

5E91CB8B-54CA-40A1-9647-063E19FAD03D

• Flying Dutchman
• Dec 16, 2018

9AE35AE5-10AB-428D-BEC3-E3C539FAF84D

• Flying Dutchman
• Dec 16, 2018

 

[Bhugo]

Thank you!

 

[Pinan]

24 ours later, Old Type number 2 is done.

Came out well. Nicely done.

 

[Biglo13]

24 ours later, Old Type number 2 is done.
First pic shows the crack running from top to bottom, the second pic the other way.
Total new weight is 69 grams.

5E91CB8B-54CA-40A1-9647-063E19FAD03D

• Flying Dutchman
• Dec 16, 2018

9AE35AE5-10AB-428D-BEC3-E3C539FAF84D

• Flying Dutchman
• Dec 16, 2018

great job.... i'm slowly gathering supplies to try techniue

 

[FoxInfinitySunset]

I am embarking on this process now.
I have a sawed off threaded bolt inside, and I'm using Gorilla Glue. I can't really recommend it at this point, but I've done a bolt-less fix with super glue before and it tends to give out.
Lots of seepage early on after applying the glue, so I've cut down to two zip ties and the F clamp running end-to-end.

 

[FoxInfinitySunset]

Could look worse.

 

[Flying Dutchman]

That's not bad at all. Did you filed down the press fitted edges of end knobs?

Now you can fully enjoy using this razor again. When in use the repair isn't really noticeable any more.

 

[FoxInfinitySunset]

That's not bad at all. Did you filed down the press fitted edges of end knobs?

Now you can fully enjoy using this razor again. When in use the repair isn't really noticeable any more.

Thanks! I did try to file the ends down but it seems the cheap files I have are not up to the job.
It would have been nice to get the cracks tighter but the expansion of the glue has actually filled the cracks along most of the length - just not do much where the end caps are. And the seepage stopped after an hour or two. It's looking pretty much the same as that last pic as of this morning.
You have a great point, I've missed using the whole razor, it's my hands-down favourite. Good to keep the end goal in mind.

 

[Go-T]

I am embarking on this process now.
I have a sawed off threaded bolt inside, and I'm using Gorilla Glue. I can't really recommend it at this point, but I've done a bolt-less fix with super glue before and it tends to give out.
Lots of seepage early on after applying the glue, so I've cut down to two zip ties and the F clamp running end-to-end.

View attachment 945571 View attachment 945572 View attachment 945573

Why the sawed off threaded bolt inside? For weight? Why not a couple more tie wraps, and will the tie's be glued also?

 

[Flying Dutchman]

Why the sawed off threaded bolt inside? For weight? Why not a couple more tie wraps, and will the tie's be glued also?

It's not about a threaded bolt. You could also use other materials. By inserting a bar or pipe the glue/epoxy has something to hold on to. The entire innersurface of the handle bonds to the insert. Therefore the crack itself doesn't need to be filled this way.
(added weight may be an extra bonus)

 

[Go-T]

It's not about a threaded bolt. You could also use other materials. By inserting a bar or pipe the glue/epoxy has something to hold on to. The entire innersurface of the handle bonds to the insert. Therefore the crack itself doesn't need to be filled this way.
(added weight may be an extra bonus)

I thought that's what the threaded bolt was for, but didn't understand the reasoning behind the idea of a threaded bolt, due to the fact of so much space for glue to fill to be able to adhere to the bolt.
Can understand a slip fitting pipe or something like it to be able to clamp the crack closed more.
Thank you for your response. I have several cracked handles, but none bad enough to worry about yet anyway.

 

[Flying Dutchman]

[/QUOTE]

I have several cracked handles, but none bad enough to worry about yet anyway.

I don't know how hard it is to pull the end knobs out of a good barrel. If it's easy I might do that, file presfittings down en glue back in place. In that way the pressure is released to prevent a crack in the first place.
(If cracked always a full repair.)

 

[FoxInfinitySunset]

Why the sawed off threaded bolt inside? For weight? Why not a couple more tie wraps, and will the tie's be glued also?

As @Flying Dutchman said, yep for something for the interior to bond with, and also for weight. I don't need the weight, but it was easier to find a threaded bolt in the right diameter than a hollow tube. And a little more weight is nice.
Ties won't get stuck, I moved them a lot during seepage and wiped off the outside of the barrel until the seeping phase was over. If I hadn't been on it, yes they'd have gotten stuck. That would have been very unpleasant.

 

[Flying Dutchman]

As @Flying DutchmanI moved them a lot during seepage and wiped off the outside of the barrel until the seeping phase was over. If I hadn't been on it, yes they'd have gotten stuck. That would have been very unpleasant.

JB weld epoxy doesn't expand at all, or very little. Less seepage the better.

 

[FoxInfinitySunset]

JB weld epoxy doesn't expand at all, or very little. Less seepage the better.

Yep if I ever do it again with another handle, I'll go find JB Weld.

Here's the final product, held at the new balance point:

 

[Go-T]

Yep if I ever do it again with another handle, I'll go find JB Weld.

Here's the final product, held at the new balance point:
View attachment 946033

View attachment 946034

Very Good, Might be a better balance than before..

 

[Go-T]

As @Flying Dutchman said, yep for something for the interior to bond with, and also for weight. I don't need the weight, but it was easier to find a threaded bolt in the right diameter than a hollow tube. And a little more weight is nice.
Ties won't get stuck, I moved them a lot during seepage and wiped off the outside of the barrel until the seeping phase was over. If I hadn't been on it, yes they'd have gotten stuck. That would have been very unpleasant.

Good to know, JB weld is good stuff.

 

[Go-T]

As @Flying Dutchman said, yep for something for the interior to bond with, and also for weight. I don't need the weight, but it was easier to find a threaded bolt in the right diameter than a hollow tube. And a little more weight is nice.
Ties won't get stuck, I moved them a lot during seepage and wiped off the outside of the barrel until the seeping phase was over. If I hadn't been on it, yes they'd have gotten stuck. That would have been very unpleasant.

You might even try a wooden dowel rod. That way it wouldn't add much weight then.

 

[jruschme]

I'm about to try and fix a handle with an end-to-end crack and could use some advice on clamps. The finish on my handle is in good shape but the tube seems to be very "sprung" (i.e., a wide crack that is hard to close by hand). As a result, I'm not sure that I can get away with just zip ties or, at least, need something to hold the crack closed until I can sufficiently tighten the ties. Any suggestions?

 

[Flying Dutchman]

In order to get the tube back in its original shape you should apply pressure in a circular way. Maybe you can make a small 2 part clamp of wood. As soon as you succeed place ties left and right off the clamp.

Like captain Murphy's below but then just a centimeter wide. Place it in a vice and tighten slowly so the tube will form to the clamp. Inside clamp should be smooth for the handle to move/rotate.

6370D96D-E795-4E2C-8FF3-4796DCE4BA30

• Flying Dutchman
• Nov 11, 2018