Thanks for the heads up, lucky I got the answer I was looking for this time, but for sure next time will make my own thread.
Thanks! I will take it in to a jeweler first and see if they’ll give me a quote before I do any welding myself.
Tutorial: Repair cracked handles/shafts in Gillette Old Types etc.
- Thread starter Pinan
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Thanks for the heads up, lucky I got the answer I was looking for this time, but for sure next time will make my own thread.
Thanks! I will take it in to a jeweler first and see if they’ll give me a quote before I do any welding myself.
Very good tutorial, now let's see if I can fix it in this condition.
That's massive! I would begin searching for a donor razor if it was me. The Goodwill I did this with...ended up going to a drawer out of rotation. It really deserves a replating too....but just sayin - not using it much. It is original Gold wash from Gillette....PM if interested.
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- #244
Paco. Sure. Just follow the guide and you'll be fine. One of mine was even worse. See pics on the 1st page.
Take your time and be patient. Profit.
Take your time and be patient. Profit.
I've repaired several handles with small, short cracks at either end of the handle tube.
Ideally, soldering the crack to stabilize it would be preferred, but not everyone has the materials needed to properly solder the crack.
The problem with a repaired crack is having it recrack when pressure is applied via press fitting a handle end.
Often when the ends are removed, the crack in the tube will close to become nearly invisible. When the handle ends are reinserted, the crack not only opens up, but can spread. To prevent this, the ends ned to fit loosely, and can be worked with a Dremel abrasive drum. The "loose" ends can be secured with any of a number of adhesives, ranging from silicone, to epoxy to JB Weld. Originally all 3 pieces were permanently press fit together, so a temporary adhesive would be less than ideal, because, once reassembled, there will be no need to further disassemble them. For replating, the best procedure is to plate the individual parts prior to assembly.
Ideally, soldering the crack to stabilize it would be preferred, but not everyone has the materials needed to properly solder the crack.
The problem with a repaired crack is having it recrack when pressure is applied via press fitting a handle end.
Often when the ends are removed, the crack in the tube will close to become nearly invisible. When the handle ends are reinserted, the crack not only opens up, but can spread. To prevent this, the ends ned to fit loosely, and can be worked with a Dremel abrasive drum. The "loose" ends can be secured with any of a number of adhesives, ranging from silicone, to epoxy to JB Weld. Originally all 3 pieces were permanently press fit together, so a temporary adhesive would be less than ideal, because, once reassembled, there will be no need to further disassemble them. For replating, the best procedure is to plate the individual parts prior to assembly.
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In the photo, notice how wide the crack is. You can solder or repair the crack, but when you pound the end back in, it will crack. The shouder of the end needs ro be reduced in diameter to allow it to slip into place without putting any undue tension on the fitting. An adhesive of your choice will keep the end in place.
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- #247
ShaverAZ; I covered this in my original post. The ends must be filed to stop the cracking from happening again.
In short; this thread is about gluing, and not soldering. Please start another thread to discuss that method.
Pinan, what made you choose aluminum tube vs. the same size in brass or, perhaps, better (?), a solid aluminum or brass rod in 5/16"? I'm trying to figure out if I can do this using your method. I have the top out but not the base and a member noted the patent numbers were upside down on the collar. What that told him, and I agree now that I saw the inside, someone tried a repair long ago and got the ends swapped around! I had to use denatured alcohol and a brass bore brush to get the inside clean. This is what I'm dealing with although it's now cleaner than the photo indicates. You can see bits of the old glue inside the crack. That's all gone now.
- Thread starter
- #249
Hello CCS. I used hollow aluminum rods simply to match the original weight as close as possible. I did a few with solid rods, etc., as well.
If you get yours apart you can easily repair that crack if you follow my instructions. I repaired far worse. It takes time, but it's worth it in the end.
Have fun.
If you get yours apart you can easily repair that crack if you follow my instructions. I repaired far worse. It takes time, but it's worth it in the end.
Have fun.
So I tried this- 620 Loctite?
I have a handle that has a visible surface, but not open crack. Loctite 620 cures to insane strengths (attaching rifle barrels and gluing in industrial bearings) in the absence of oxygen. I first glued the bottom on, then filled up the handle most of the way with 620 Loctite, which will seep into the crack, pushing it in with a Q-tip stick, and then the last 1/16” with good old fashioned Elmers glue on top of the loctite so it would seal the 620 in the handle just up to the depth the top cap will screw in. Sealing in the loctite allows it to cure, which it will only do in the absence of oxygen. Was very careful to make sure that ZERO of either adhesive remained on the interior threads and let it sit overnight. If you accidentally glue a razor together with 620 you won’t be able to disassemble without a blow torch and a hammer. I then kept it upright in a rack for several days. Also used the 620 to secure both the top and base of the handle. Can you still see a very small crack line? Yes. It’s user grade, so I don’t care. Is that handle ever going to open up? Probably not without a blow torch and driving a truck over it. Viola! Completely functional ball end handle that won’t come loose or keep cracking. Weight gain is very, very slight. I have the loctite laying around for firearm assembly. Otherwise, for same cost, order a nickeled brass reproduction from Razor Emporiom.
I have a handle that has a visible surface, but not open crack. Loctite 620 cures to insane strengths (attaching rifle barrels and gluing in industrial bearings) in the absence of oxygen. I first glued the bottom on, then filled up the handle most of the way with 620 Loctite, which will seep into the crack, pushing it in with a Q-tip stick, and then the last 1/16” with good old fashioned Elmers glue on top of the loctite so it would seal the 620 in the handle just up to the depth the top cap will screw in. Sealing in the loctite allows it to cure, which it will only do in the absence of oxygen. Was very careful to make sure that ZERO of either adhesive remained on the interior threads and let it sit overnight. If you accidentally glue a razor together with 620 you won’t be able to disassemble without a blow torch and a hammer. I then kept it upright in a rack for several days. Also used the 620 to secure both the top and base of the handle. Can you still see a very small crack line? Yes. It’s user grade, so I don’t care. Is that handle ever going to open up? Probably not without a blow torch and driving a truck over it. Viola! Completely functional ball end handle that won’t come loose or keep cracking. Weight gain is very, very slight. I have the loctite laying around for firearm assembly. Otherwise, for same cost, order a nickeled brass reproduction from Razor Emporiom.
Bought an Old Type razor off Etsy with crack at the razor end, but ball end intact. The razor end cap did not want to come off without a fight. I almost abandoned the project fearing I might trash the whole barrel, but since I'd already bought the epoxy and tubing I forged ahead and ultimately discovered crazy glue coating the inside. I scraped it out of the barrel and used a box cutter and sewing needle to scrape what I could out of the crack, but meh. So much for the perfect repair I'd hoped for. In the end the barrel does look better: Instead of a long gaping V it now has a teeny but definitely there crack. Actually, I'm more frustrated that the epoxy I used remained stark white. Now I'm wondering how I can subtle that up a bit.
Despite coming up short on perfection, this remained a fun evening of fiddling and bonding with my 100 yr old razor, and tomorrow I'll be shaving as well with it as ever.
Despite coming up short on perfection, this remained a fun evening of fiddling and bonding with my 100 yr old razor, and tomorrow I'll be shaving as well with it as ever.
I used the super glue, cut BIC pen, small zip tie method. Then used the old type for a few years until I got a FaTip OC. But both of my kids cut themselves “shaving” with them.
- Thread starter
- #253
I guess you missed this part. Hehe
"Clean up ALL excess epoxy with rubbing alcohol using Q-Tips. Check every minute or so for a while for additional oozing.
Note that marine epoxy has a 24 hour set period so there is no huge hurry to do cleanup. You have up to 30 minutes or so to easily clean with alcohol."
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