Titanium stainless steel galling in razors - any metallurgists here?

[JCinPA]

@Dtownvino made me aware of galling issues between Ti and Stainless, and I'm wondering how much of an issue it is.

I have a new stainless steel razor head and a gorgeous Titanium handle. I put silicone grease on the threads on the head and inside the female threads on the handle, and I don't crank the razor very tight, just finger tight.

I also have a heavy SS handle I could use with the head which would eliminate any potental issues, but it's not a pretty as the Ti handle, which is drop dead gorgeous.

Is silicone grease in this application enough to circumvent any issues between the two metals? From a shaving perspective either handle is fine, this is strictly an aesthetics concern. I love the Ti handle, but could be fine using the SS handle if that is a better idea.

 

[Multum in parvo]

I asked that one a while ago and Doug/Rosseforp RIP gave me this answer:

I personally don't like the rough feel of titanium on titanium threads, but as far as the binding and galling is concerned, I doubt Arnold Schwarzenegger has enough strength for that to happen from overtightening.

Bronze/Brass and Titanium would be the smoothest, Steel and Titanium next, Aluminum and Titanium next, then Titanium and Titanium the roughest.
A dab of Vaseline or Vick's Vapor Rub will prevent any damage.

 

[psfred]

Galling is due to either micro-welding from excessive pressure or from corrosion, I'm assuming what your are seeing (or fearing) is wear on the stainless from the much harder titanium.

I'd be more concerned about a rough titanium handle thread eating the stainless bolt.

 

[Fordfather]

Galling is due to either micro-welding from excessive pressure or from corrosion, I'm assuming what your are seeing (or fearing) is wear on the stainless from the much harder titanium.

I'd be more concerned about a rough titanium handle thread eating the stainless bolt.

Titanium is softer. It's going to gall before the stainless does. Everyone thinks it's stronger than steel. It isn't. It's strength to weight ratio is greater than steel, but it's more elastic/softer.

The human hand will not put enough torque on a razor head, to gall the threads.

 

[Phoenixkh]

I've had outdoor metal structure chairs where the bolts fused into the threads. I know galling is a problem with bicycle parts where dissimilar metals are used. It's a common problem..not from over-tightening but from sitting a long time. It was also well-known in the automation production equipment I used to sell.

I'm sure it's overkill for razors, but I use Park Tool ACS-1 anti-seize compound. Amazon sells it.

Edit: I just put a dab on the threads every so often. I'm sitting here thinking.... how often? I would say I get around to it every 3 months or so. I just do them all at once. It takes a few seconds each.. Unscrew the handle, put the dab on... screw the handle back on.

 

[cpcohen1945]

For the number of times the handle will be fastened and removed, and for the force involved in tightening the handle (two gentle hands, no wrenches) -- remembering that we're talking about stainless steel and titanium, each of which is resistant to corrosion:

. . . Any lubricant with decent film strength should do fine.

Silicone lube, motor oil, Vaseline, Teflon grease, anti-seize -- just use _something_ occasionally. I think we'll be dead before answering:

. . . "But which one makes the threads last the longest?"

. Charles

PS -- in salt-water environments, sailors use Tef-Gel to coat s/s screws going into aluminum masts. But that doesn't solve a galling problem, it solves a corrosion problem by keeping salt water out of the threads.

 

[KW Driver]

PS -- in salt-water environments, sailors use Tef-Gel to coat s/s screws going into aluminum masts. But that doesn't solve a galling problem, it solves a corrosion problem by keeping salt water out of the threads.

It’s not about salt water corrosion, it’s about galvanic reaction between dissimilar metals. The Tef-gel insulates each piece from the other.

It could happen, or happen slower between the SS and Ti (probably slowly, or much slower than Aluminum), and would present as a corrosion.

 

[nav]

Titanium is softer. It's going to gall before the stainless does. Everyone thinks it's stronger than steel. It isn't. It's strength to weight ratio is greater than steel, but it's more elastic/softer.

The human hand will not put enough torque on a razor head, to gall the threads.

I'm very curious to know...the entire reason razor makers charge so much extra for Ti by saying it's harder and tougher to machine is a marketing gimmick?

 

[DesertIguana]

It’s not about salt water corrosion, it’s about galvanic reaction between dissimilar metals. The Tef-gel insulates each piece from the other.

It could happen, or happen slower between the SS and Ti (probably slowly, or much slower than Aluminum), and would present as a corrosion.

Kawabunga you hit the nail square on head, was thinking when started reading this question, their is a term I learned long ago, and you jogged my memory.,

 

[Omega48]

I use two razors with titanium heads and aluminum handles (Henson). I disassemble them every 5-6 days to change the blades. Never thought about using lubricant.
Should I be concerned?

 

[helicopter]

Seahawk and Blackhawk mechanic and inspector (in my youth) here. I also ran a production shift in a plant that overhauled and repaired commercial airliner engine nacelle components. If you disassemble and dry it, you should be fine. You could put something to prevent corrosion at the interface, but it probably isn't necessary. I would use corrosionx or boeshield if I were worried about it, but I am not.

The main issues with dissimilar metals arise when you have some electric current, like that along the steel hull of a ship moving through saltwater, or the aluminum frame of an aircraft that functions as an electrical ground bonded to virtually everything onboard. Both are likely to be wet, and have mechanical connections that remain connected for years of use.

Even in those applications, 316L steel and cadmium or gold plated nickel steels usually do alright. The plated nickel steels are the ones you need to be more careful about.

Contaminated threads are also more likely to gall, such as when there are burrs or drill chips of dissimilar metal or dust from abrasives like corundum or moissanite. You probably won't encounter these issues in your bathroom as long as the threads are clean the first time you use them.

Short answer is that it is a good pracrive to use a facecloth or small microfiber cloth to wipe down the threads at least as often as you replace your blade.

 

[psfred]

Titanium is expensive to make (it's not a common mineral like iron or copper or zinc) and it is a bear to machine. It also has some curious qualities that interfere with ordinary manufacturing.

It exhibits a strong "memory" effect when stamped or rolled, especially when heated after forming. This is why the SR-71 has shallow corrogations in the wing surface, the wing panels would tear the rivets out if they were flat.

It also very tough and does not machine well, worse than stainless steel for burrs, rough threads, etc.

It is a class D fire material -- once ignited it can only be extinguished by smothering in sand or some other inert material. Like magnesium the heat of hydration isn't much lower than the heat of oxidation (magnesium burns nicely underwater) and the heat of carbonation is almost as high, so CO2 extinguishers are useless.

 

[JCinPA]

Wow! So much expertise in this community! Thank you all for your comments.

I'm not "seeing anything" at all, I just wondered if it was an issue, and those least concerned seem to be the experts here, which is reassuring. I'll keep using the silicone grease occasionally and won't worry about it any longer.

@Omega48 It seems to me from the responses, in a shaving razor application there is nothing to worry about, just thread finger tight don't grab the handle in your fist and torque it down. Lubrication may not be necessary--but it cannot hurt. I look at it as better to use it and not need it than not use it and need it.

Sounds like vaseline is fine and most folks have it. I just happened to have a tub of silicone grease from my scuba diving days, so I use that. Don't go out and buy some though. A little vaseline sounds like it's almost as good.

 

[Hair Scraper]

I'm very curious to know...the entire reason razor makers charge so much extra for Ti by saying it's harder and tougher to machine is a marketing gimmick?

It's harder to machine with respect to keeping the dimensions you want because, depending on the grade, it's gummy.

 

[Chad3]

Not that it’s right or wrong but good enough for me:
I rub the threads with a hard soap before putting the razor back together. Smooths out the threads for me. When I change out the blade I clean out the handle then threads on cap and rub a bit more soap on cap threads.

 

[TOVT]

I'm very curious to know...the entire reason razor makers charge so much extra for Ti by saying it's harder and tougher to machine is a marketing gimmick?

An old friend was a gunsmith and 1911 builder. He hated to work with titanium and ended up refusing to do titanium builds. Said it was sticky to work with.

 

[nav]

It's harder to machine with respect to keeping the dimensions you want because, depending on the grade, it's gummy.

An old friend was a gunsmith and 1911 builder. He hated to work with titanium and ended up refusing to do titanium builds. Said it was sticky to work with.

Does this gummy/sticky characteristic increase the cost of production by the proportion of SS vs Ti razor prices?

I mean, grade 5 Ti billet is not much more expensive compared to other metals like SS. So it's not the raw material causing the increased cost.

 

[Hair Scraper]

I'm not sure. I wonder if it has a higher scrap rate when machining? (Increasing costs in the process.) I wonder if the manufacturers would answer that question.

 

[helicopter]

Yeah, it tends to work harden, so you will damage more parts, break more drill bits and cutting tools, and need special experience and extra time to setup. It is very difficult to work with for the first time if you are used to steel.and aluminum. If you are familiar with the work, then it isn't such a big deal. I am sure the guys who built the SR-71 airframes didn't have any trouble with it after a few month.

 

[wsfarrell]

Titanium is softer. It's going to gall before the stainless does. Everyone thinks it's stronger than steel. It isn't. It's strength to weight ratio is greater than steel, but it's more elastic/softer.

The human hand will not put enough torque on a razor head, to gall the threads.

I've galled the threads on two different titanium flashlights, rendering them useless. Hand-tightening only of course. Is this because both parts were titanium, rather than one part being stainless?