Tiecrafters

[Rhody]

Agreed. Before the pandemic, I regularly donned a tie. Since then, I have worn a tie less than a dozen times in the last year.

That may make those who wore ties to work, ecstatic. I know I sure don’t fall feel that way.

Great piece I enjoyed that it felt like reading something out of history. I pictured the Algonquin Round Table or something like that.
I’m with you. Since the pandemic I’ve needed a tie for zoom probably a dozen times max. Dress shirt. Jeans and the same tie. That felt like sinking to a new low of laziness. Especially in zoom and occasionally wearing a blue blazer or a wool vest I definitely can get away with the same one. I can “dress” for work in under 5 minutes. And dress back down in less. I can still tie an adequate knot without needing a mirror

 

[johnniegold]

I’ve needed a tie for zoom probably a dozen times max:

Dress shirt.
Jeans and the same tie.
wearing a blue blazer
wool vest

Check.
Check.
Check.
Check.

 

[FarmerTan]

Agreed. Before the pandemic, I regularly donned a tie. Since then, I have worn a tie less than a dozen times in the last year.

That may make those who wore ties to work, ecstatic. I know I sure don’t fall feel that way.

Amen.

 

[Rhody]

Now when / if things get back to normal I’m thinking about a suit supply suit

 

[Doc4]

Not an uncommon tale when it comes to “re-engineering” suits. I’ve stared at several suits hanging in my closet and thought about re-altering something as seemingly easy as adding side vents to a no-vent jacket but I know I would be disappointed so I leave well-enough alone.

Should I stay or should I go now?
Should I stay or should I go now?
If I go there will be trouble
And if I stay it will be double
So come on and let me know

Well, it can hang in your closet gathering dust (and hopefully not moths) in its pristine condition, or you can get it modified so you can wear it even though it's been butchered.

But if you have a good alterations tailor, it won't be butchered. It will be hand-altered, and that means the imperfections of hand-work rather than the perfection of an assembly line. So you are going to have a bit of wabi-sabi-esque imperfection to live with, but that is what also makes the garment useable for you again.

"Back in the day" when I was starting my wardrobe, I got the impression from various clothing store salesmen that I was a 44-L. So that's the size I would buy my suits in. As I gained my sartorial knowledge, I came to realise that I was not a "Long" but a "Regular" ... and between that and dropping some weight, I'm a 42, not a 44.

Well, that left me with a bunch of suits that were too big and too long for me. So whenever I'd wear them I'd be very aware of the bagginess and the excess jacket length. So ... I took a gamble and took one of the less expensive ones to my tailor and tried to see what he could do. I thought at least he could tuck the waist of the jacket, and the waist of the pants.

He didn't just do that ... he actually shortened the jacket, slimmed the pants from top to bottom, and tucked the jacket. Limited work he could do with the shoulders of the jacket, so there's a tiniest bit of "linebacker" vibe to the jacket now but ... other than that ... miles ahead of where I was. Now I can wear it with pride ... even if it's not as perfect as if I had a time machine to go back and change the original order when I bought the suit. (The discerning eye will also note that the jacket pockets are a bit too close to the bottom of the jacket.) I had him fix a few suits and jackets. Similarly good results ... not "factory perfect" but miles ahead of where they were and much more enjoyable to wear.

Mind you, I am the sort of guy who not only wants to wear great stuff that looks great on me ... but also if I buy something I'm going to "get my money's worth" and wear it out rather than tossing or donating it just because it's not a "good fit" for my wishes/style.

I recently read that Brooks Brothers is closing its doors as they have declared bankruptcy. Although the brand won’t disappear entirely, it certainly feels like the demise of an era.

I had no idea they had filed for bankruptcy!

I knew they had filed for bankruptcy, but wasn't aware they were actually shutting down. Not that I've been following too closely but ... IIRC they were bought by a new company after the bankruptcy filing, and are continuing on, although appear to be "streamlining" their B&M locations. The website is still up-and-running today, although they appear to no longer stock the "Peal & Co" shoes that I always sing the praises of.

 

[Doc4]

 

[Rhody]

Should I stay or should I go now?
Should I stay or should I go now?
If I go there will be trouble
And if I stay it will be double
So come on and let me know

Well, it can hang in your closet gathering dust (and hopefully not moths) in its pristine condition, or you can get it modified so you can wear it even though it's been butchered.

But if you have a good alterations tailor, it won't be butchered. It will be hand-altered, and that means the imperfections of hand-work rather than the perfection of an assembly line. So you are going to have a bit of wabi-sabi-esque imperfection to live with, but that is what also makes the garment useable for you again.

"Back in the day" when I was starting my wardrobe, I got the impression from various clothing store salesmen that I was a 44-L. So that's the size I would buy my suits in. As I gained my sartorial knowledge, I came to realise that I was not a "Long" but a "Regular" ... and between that and dropping some weight, I'm a 42, not a 44.

Well, that left me with a bunch of suits that were too big and too long for me. So whenever I'd wear them I'd be very aware of the bagginess and the excess jacket length. So ... I took a gamble and took one of the less expensive ones to my tailor and tried to see what he could do. I thought at least he could tuck the waist of the jacket, and the waist of the pants.

He didn't just do that ... he actually shortened the jacket, slimmed the pants from top to bottom, and tucked the jacket. Limited work he could do with the shoulders of the jacket, so there's a tiniest bit of "linebacker" vibe to the jacket now but ... other than that ... miles ahead of where I was. Now I can wear it with pride ... even if it's not as perfect as if I had a time machine to go back and change the original order when I bought the suit. (The discerning eye will also note that the jacket pockets are a bit too close to the bottom of the jacket.) I had him fix a few suits and jackets. Similarly good results ... not "factory perfect" but miles ahead of where they were and much more enjoyable to wear.

Mind you, I am the sort of guy who not only wants to wear great stuff that looks great on me ... but also if I buy something I'm going to "get my money's worth" and wear it out rather than tossing or donating it just because it's not a "good fit" for my wishes/style.



I knew they had filed for bankruptcy, but wasn't aware they were actually shutting down. Not that I've been following too closely but ... IIRC they were bought by a new company after the bankruptcy filing, and are continuing on, although appear to be "streamlining" their B&M locations. The website is still up-and-running today, although they appear to no longer stock the "Peal & Co" shoes that I always sing the praises of.

I had a tailor back in the day who stocked Hart Schaffner Marx suits but it took me so long to discover that he had me in a size or two too big. Baggy pants. Big shoulders. Ugh. Once I shook that look people would compliment me on losing weight. That’s when I realized how bad it was. I have another tailor now who was able to salvage a few of the gold trumpeters so they are wearable.
I think one well made and well tailored suit is really all I’d need anyway.

 

[FarmerTan]

I have to buy a suit for my son's upcoming nuptials, which I am officiating. His lovely bride to be wants us gents in gray/grey (lol) which, depending upon the shade, either looks horrendous or MAAAAHVELOUS on me. I plan to wear a dark vest, or dark slacks, depending on what the bride wants. I haven't had a tailored suit in AGES, but I plan on it this summer. Clarification: I should have said "altered" as opposed to "tailored" I suppose. I'm envisioning a light grey jacket, white shirt, black shoes,

View attachment 1246079

I'll have to see if these will still be available.

Like I need more shoes.....while I sit in my Lazyarseboy waiting for my monthly checks....

 

[Doc4]

I plan to wear ... what the bride wants.

Smart man.

I haven't had a tailored suit in AGES, but I plan on it this summer. Clarification: I should have said "altered" as opposed to "tailored" I suppose.

IMHO "tailored" is acceptable. As in, you get an off-the-rack suit, and have a tailor nip and tuck it here and there to make it fit you better.

I'm envisioning a light grey jacket, white shirt, black shoes,

IMHO ... and please defer to the bride's wishes if need be ... a light grey suit will be the way to go, rather than a jacket that is different from the trousers/vest combo (although that can be a good look too.)

I think in general that a darker jacket over mid-grey trouser/vest looks better than a lighter jacket over darker trouser/vest.

A little more formal. Dressier.

Buuut ... when you are officiating at the wedding, you want the attention to be on the bride and groom, not you, so the more you can be the "blank slate" in the visual background, the better. The more contrast and differentiations in your outfit, the more attention is on you. So just a plain grey suit. White shirt. Black shoes. Subtle tie.

I'll have to see if these will still be available.

It will take some looking.

If there is a BB Outlet store near you, that may be a good place to look. Or ebay?

Be sure to try them on before buying (unless you have a really good returns option available.) With multiple makers using multiple lasts, I find I need to fluctuate a half size or even a whole size between different models.

I bought most of mine back in 2008-09 ... there were some smokin' hot deals when the recession hit all of a sudden, and $500 shoes were on sale for $200. The last time I bought a pair was 2016/17? when I wandered into a BB Outlet and found a few pair in the shoe rack.

 

[The Knize]

Buuut ... when you are officiating at the wedding, you want the attention to be on the bride and groom, not you, so the more you can be the "blank slate" in the visual background, the better. The more contrast and differentiations in your outfit, the more attention is on you. So just a plain grey suit. White shirt. Black shoes. Subtle tie.

This!

 

[FarmerTan]

This!

Yes! Great advice @Doc4 ......and as I said: I do need a grey suit. The War Department is even on board! Win/Win!

 

[Natsoi]

The reason I started this thread some two years ago was due to the fact that I had a closet full of classically-patterned, beautifully-made, Brooks Brothers silk and ancient madder ties.

The quality of these ties were superb but alas, they were too wide by today’s standards. Rather than trying to replace them with the lesser-quality ties that BB began selling, I decided to revive these ties with a tune-up from Tiecrafters in NYC, the results of which, are well-documented herein.

I recently read that Brooks Brothers is closing its doors as they have declared bankruptcy. Although the brand won’t disappear entirely, it certainly feels like the demise of an era.

I wrote this post over at Ivy-Style.com (wherein I make mention of Tiecrafters) and they were kind enough to feature it as part of a week-long series discussing the closing of Brooks Brothers and it’s flagship store in NYC.

My entry is really about the doors closing on some of the traditions and certain rites of passage that were once associated with this once-iconic brand.

I hope you enjoy it...

The Rituals, The Tradition... It's All Gone - Ivy Style

After a two-Manhattan lunch with the guys, I would occasionally go and sit with “my guy” at Brooks Brothers and go through swatches and order up a couple of MTM suits. One of the tailors, Sal, an impeccably-dressed Italian gentleman, would measure me. Pick-stitching, working sleeve buttons...

www.ivy-style.com

I like the first line: “After a two-manhattan lunch with the guys...”

Things have definitely changed - I very rarely wear a suit, I go for more jackets and trousers without ties. I think that these days people can dress how they want to a large extent which means some are dressed up and others down. Although those who dress down seem to be the more judging of others.

My gripe is with that is probably the modern dandy or those who dress up for their Instagram feeds. The whole point of good style is that it shouldn‘t be (or at least should not look) hard. Too many people have a tie, and a pocket square, and a collar pin, and a buttonhole pin, and, and... there is something to be said for good cuts, good materials and austere colours/patterns. It’s clothing, not a costume.

 

[FarmerTan]

I like the first line: “After a two-manhattan lunch with the guys...”

Things have definitely changed - I very rarely wear a suit, I go for more jackets and trousers without ties. I think that these days people can dress how they want to a large extent which means some are dressed up and others down. Although those who dress down seem to be the more judging of others.

My gripe is with that is probably the modern dandy or those who dress up for their Instagram feeds. The whole point of good style is that it shouldn‘t be (or at least should not look) hard. Too many people have a tie, and a pocket square, and a collar pin, and a buttonhole pin, and, and... there is something to be said for good cuts, good materials and austere colours/patterns. It’s clothing, not a costume.

Your post made me remember something I wanted to bring up.

I have not been to church services in nearly a year; I've been watching the service on TV, streamed through FakeBook.
I miss dressing up, a little. It is nice to drink coffee and eat cookies while the choir sings (quite often) songs that I wish were hymns, and haven't worn robes in forever. It's all good; I'm into the preaching, and we are blessed by having a good one.

So I sit there, judging the music and the attire, while I'm in my Pajamas!

 

[blantyre]

Ties are out, masks are in as the new form of public self expression. Repurpose an old tie into a mask! Anything but grenadine would be viable.

I own about a dozen ties but very rarely have any reason to wear them. I usually try to get something just over 3” wide in a classic pattern so they will never be in vogue but always be passable as the fad swings from wide to narrow and back. I never liked wide ties but would be perfectly comfortable in a narrow one regardless of the current fashion.

Ties are a potential danger in labs and machine shops since they can get caught in rotating machinery and “pull” you face first into the danger zone. Same with pendant badges, they must have a breakaway behind the neck. It’s a rare event but supports the idea of not wearing a tie. Chicago police are said to wear clip on ties to avoid potential problems.

 

[Doc4]

Ties are a potential danger in labs and machine shops since they can get caught in rotating machinery and “pull” you face first into the danger zone.

Yet one more reason to say ...

Spoiler