Thrift store Wusthof! Work needed, but wow...

[Altreac]

Visited the thrift store in Sandspit, BC today.

Came out with 10 items for $7 CAD.

Got this Wusthof Inox 4582/20cm in X50 CrMoV15!

It's got a chipped tip, but it cost about 70¢...

I'll need to reprofile the tip, so I'll lose a couple centimetres. This is in as I got it condition.

I dunno how someone got rid of this one, it's still has an edge on it.

I'm not sure how old it is. All the models I see online have the crest on the handle.

Super pleased with this find.

 

[Dnallehekaj]

Heck yeah, what a deal too!

Please post back with reprofile pics!

 

[Altreac]

After a bit of grinding.

Needs a bit more work still, but hand grinding is slow.

 

[luvmysuper]

Sweet!

 

[APBinNCA]

Have you measured the finished length yet?

 

[Altreac]

Have you measured the finished length yet?

So far it's sitting at 18.8cm

Still wondering if I should shallow out the belly near the tip a bit more. Feels pretty good so far though.

Haven't begun setting a bevel yet. So not quite finished yet.

 

[Stockman1107]

I would just remove a bit more steal from the spine, not the edge, to create a tip.
A little bit of thinning behind the edge, a nice thin bevel and you are good to go.
Nice score and looks like you will have a very handy kitchen knife when the job is done.

 

[ChefJohnBoy-ardee]

So far it's sitting at 18.8cm

Still wondering if I should shallow out the belly near the tip a bit more. Feels pretty good so far though.

Haven't begun setting a bevel yet. So not quite finished yet.

grind down from the spine and reprofile the tip that way. you'll have a lot less grinding and less of a rounded tip. You will save lenth and thinning to get the tip thin again.

pic to follow.

 

[ChefJohnBoy-ardee]

Very terrible drawing... but make some paper cut outs and see how you want to shape it.

I would grind from the spine down where my dotted line is. Mark where you want to go to with a marker.

 

[Altreac]

Very terrible drawing... but make some paper cut outs and see how you want to shape it.

I would grind from the spine down where my dotted line is. Mark where you want to go to with a marker. View attachment 1601224

I think it sounds like a good idea.

 

[cotedupy]

Visited the thrift store in Sandspit, BC today.

Came out with 10 items for $7 CAD.

Got this Wusthof Inox 4582/20cm in X50 CrMoV15!

It's got a chipped tip, but it cost about 70¢...

I'll need to reprofile the tip, so I'll lose a couple centimetres. This is in as I got it condition.

I dunno how someone got rid of this one, it's still has an edge on it.

View attachment 1600657

I'm not sure how old it is. All the models I see online have the crest on the handle.

Super pleased with this find.

Very nice! I sharpen and repair Wusthofs quite often and they are certainly one of the better big western knife producers. Decent steel, decent grinds, take nice edges and generally perform very well.

As others have said - you want to be removing metal mostly from the spine to repair the tipping, there are quite a few benefits to doing it this way; the steel won't be as hard, you'll need to thin it less after, and it's easier to preserve a good profile.

I'd also say - you're probably going to want to do something about the fingerguard, ideally on belts if possible cos otherwise it's a bit of a faff.

 

[Altreac]

Very nice! I sharpen and repair Wusthofs quite often and they are certainly one of the better big western knife producers. Decent steel, decent grinds, take nice edges and generally perform very well.

As others have said - you want to be removing metal mostly from the spine to repair the tipping, there are quite a few benefits to doing it this way; the steel won't be as hard, you'll need to thin it less after, and it's easier to preserve a good profile.

I'd also say - you're probably going to want to do something about the fingerguard, ideally on belts if possible cos otherwise it's a bit of a faff.

You mean like grind the flared part flat at the finger guard?

Don't have access to a belt currently, best I could do is an angle grinder.

But I'd like to hear more on that modification if you would.

 

[cotedupy]

You mean like grind the flared part flat at the finger guard?

Don't have access to a belt currently, best I could do is an angle grinder.

But I'd like to hear more on that modification if you would.

Yep, you're thinking along the right lines. ATM the flared part of the finger guard will stop you sharpening near the heel at a proper angle for a knife edge, but there are a couple of different ways to fix it...

Either you can grind it flatter on each side, as you say. But that route can be a little difficult without a vertical belt grinder, or takes a long time and is a bit annoying to do on coarse stones.

The easier way, which you can do with an angle grinder very easily, is just to take off a small section of it at 45 degrees to the vertical. The pic below hopefully shows what I mean, the two Sabs here have finger guards and I've just ground a little bit off them allowing me to sharpen the full length of the edge without the guard hitting the stone. That make sense...?

With an angle grinder that'll take about 2 seconds, and it'll make sharpening the knife a million times easier. (Finger guards are the bane of my life!)

 

[ChefJohnBoy-ardee]

Very nice! I sharpen and repair Wusthofs quite often and they are certainly one of the better big western knife producers. Decent steel, decent grinds, take nice edges and generally perform very well.

As others have said - you want to be removing metal mostly from the spine to repair the tipping, there are quite a few benefits to doing it this way; the steel won't be as hard, you'll need to thin it less after, and it's easier to preserve a good profile.

I'd also say - you're probably going to want to do something about the fingerguard, ideally on belts if possible cos otherwise it's a bit of a faff.

At least the finger guards on Wustufs are thinner than Mercers.

I wish I could find a before pic. This an hour on an Atoma then even more hours on on subsequent stones. I swear it was oval before I started. Cheap culinary school knife kit knife...

 

[Altreac]

View attachment 1601751
At least the finger guards on Wustufs are thinner than Mercers.

I wish I could find a before pic. This an hour on an Atoma then even more hours on on subsequent stones. I swear it was oval before I started. Cheap culinary school knife kit knife...

I understand with the pics, makes sense for sure.

I appreciate the input, I may give that a try.

 

[cotedupy]

View attachment 1601751
At least the finger guards on Wustufs are thinner than Mercers.

I wish I could find a before pic. This an hour on an Atoma then even more hours on on subsequent stones. I swear it was oval before I started. Cheap culinary school knife kit knife...

Oh crikey, yeah when you have those really big ones they're a complete pain!

@Altreac - what John's done here is an example of the first method I mentioned above. Grinding down the finger guard on either side so that it's at or below your sharpening angle. As he mentioned this can take a long time, even on coarse SiC or diamond plates. But has the aesthetic advantage that you don't lose a small corner off the heel of the knife, and also - you can do it so that it acts as a built-in angle guide for sharpening.

The second method, shown in my picture, is slightly different and involves simply grinding the corner off along this line here:

Either works well, so whichever you prefer really, or you can do a combination of the two.

 

[Altreac]

This is where I'm at so far.

I also included pics of the guard.

Sorry for the poor lighting, I have no decent sources.

I'll need to thin it out a bit for sure. It's hard to make out the thicknesses in the pictures, but you can kinda get an idea.