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Things to do with dead kangaroos

Kangaroos are extraordinarily stupid animals. Every day after getting up in the late afternoon they go off to line the sides of the roads, waiting patiently and motionless for a car to come along. So that, right at the last moment, they can bound gaily in front of it, to meet their maker. There really isn't much at all going on upstairs with a roo.

And thus their bloodied remains pebbledash the sides of Australian freeways from Sydney to Perth. Serving as unheeded warning to their kin, amusement to other cleverer animals, and breaking the monotony of long drives. Whatever to do with a kangaroo...?

Well you can eat 'em. It's actually quite nice in a dark-and-lean-meat kinda way. But eating roadkill is a bit icky, so they probably farm them instead. Either way - to eat it you're gonna need to skin it. Kangaroos are quite thin skinned (don't tell them I said they were stupid), but their leather is surprisingly nice, tough, non-stretchy, cheap because they keep killing themselves, and apparently makes very good strops indeed.

Here's a small bit I bought recently, along with some strop-making accessories that were donated by @Legion:

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Who'd also made and given me my first strop when I was starting out with razors. It's excellent, and I believe made out of a cow (also not that bright), so I thought I'd try to replicate it with the roo. I've got a little kiridashi there for cutting it up, and the thing on the right is a meuchi spike, for nailing the head of your eel to the board so it doesn't thrash about too much as you skin it alive. Though I will be using it somewhat more prosaically for making holes:

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I've never done anything with leather before but the whole process seemed quite easy tbh, took about 10 minutes. Cut a bit out:

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Spike some holes in it for the rivets, and you're there:

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I shan't kid* you that my new one has quite the level of fit and finish as David's below, but it seems to me like it'll work. I'll report back later...

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* Classic leatherworking pun for you there. Has them rolling in the aisles at the International Glover Conference.
 
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Legion

Staff member
Excellent job. Your first one is actually water Buffalo leather, which is about as far from roo as you can get, so the pair will be a nice contrast to experiment with.
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
Roo leather is often about 1mm thick or a bit less. Most leather strops are much thicker. I have a couple of calf hide strops from Kyrgyzstan of about the same thickness as Roo leather. It takes a bit of getting use to stropping on thinner leather but once mastered, this thinness presents no great problems.

I'm now thinking of all the dead Roos that I have dragged to the side of the road and the strops that I could have made. :mad3:
 
I also have a home made roo strop. I purchased a strip of leather from a seller on ebay and had it sent to an Aussie address to avail of free shipping, and collected the skin from the recipient the next time I saw them a few weeks later.

I used D rings on both ends and attached them to the strop with repurposed offcuts of cow hide by using Chicago screws.

It has a generous 510mm or 20" of useable stropping surface. Aside from the cheap Chinese strop I started with, this is the only strop I've used with any frequency. Somewhere between 900 and 1000 shaves on it so far.
 

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Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
I have a few of them, they’re nice. Not so cheap here in the states and a good percentage of the leather seems to be not smooth enough for a strop. But a good piece makes a nice strop. I have an unbacked 3” wide piece that cups a little due to the width that’s nice on smiling razors.

Because of the thinness and flexibility, you can also roll up a full size strop and it will fit nicely in a pill bottle.
 
Thanks all!

Tried it last night and couldn't get it working quite as well as the other one tbh. A couple of potential issues I think...

The rivets are too close together, so the sides of the strop go down slightly when pulled taught. This probably doesn't make much of a difference in theory (?), but it's a little annoying, so I'll probably trim it down to make it less wide.

As Richard & David said - my previous one is almost completely the other end of the spectrum, and perhaps I just need to leanr and get used to using a thinner strop. Any tips anyone...?

It may just be a less suitable type - after I got it D mentioned that you really wanted to be using vegetable tanned roo leather for strops, and I don't know whether this is. So I may just need to get another piece sometime, and use the bits to make a better one now I've got my eye in.
 
Thanks all!

Tried it last night and couldn't get it working quite as well as the other one tbh. A couple of potential issues I think...

The rivets are too close together, so the sides of the strop go down slightly when pulled taught. This probably doesn't make much of a difference in theory (?), but it's a little annoying, so I'll probably trim it down to make it less wide.

As Richard & David said - my previous one is almost completely the other end of the spectrum, and perhaps I just need to leanr and get used to using a thinner strop. Any tips anyone...?

It may just be a less suitable type - after I got it D mentioned that you really wanted to be using vegetable tanned roo leather for strops, and I don't know whether this is. So I may just need to get another piece sometime, and use the bits to make a better one now I've got my eye in.
Don't know if this would be cost-prohibitive, but a strip of Kydex adhered to the back, same dimensions as the strop might make it more "strop-like" in feel. Kydex is a plastic-like material that's commonly used with injection or vacuum-molding machines to make gun holsters. It's available in a variety of thicknesses. One would likely do well with close to thinnest--as it's very durable. If not Kydex, I'd imagine any plastic of appropriate thickness would do. Some spray adhesive like 3M would do well and not influence the leather-side.

Just an idea. If you're so inclined, hop to it!
 
I have found there is no need for a backing to the roo skin. As long as it is pulled taut it works fine.

Of course if you prefer to have a thicker strop, do what makes you happy.

Kangaroo skin is deceptively strong so shouldn't tear unless the edge of the strop is cut.
 
Just an idea. If you're so inclined, hop to it!

Bravo! That's the spirit.

Interesting idea backing it, and I hadn't heard of that stuff before. As @PintoPlain said though - it shouldn't need it necessarily, and actually it feels lovely to strop on. The product you mentioned sounds quite cool anyway, I might try to get some just to play around with more generally.


I don’t use a strop but that was the best post I have read in a while!

Ah cheers! It's a bit of an open goal taking the **** out of kangaroos tbh. They really don't help themselves.
 
So last night I took a razor with a not-very-good edge, honed it on a stone I thought probably wasn't fine or consistent enough to finish (though had been assured it was by someone who knows quite a lot more about these things than I do), put it on my strop that I had doubts about being the right kind of leather, i.e. vegetable tanned, and... it works! I was more than a little surprised tbh - the shave was excellent.

It's a noticeably different experience to the other one; the feel itself is nicer, it feels lovely to strop on, with a little more give to it, but not much. Though the buffalo one gets the job done quicker, and possibly better - I'm still not certain my roo was vegetable tanned. Though perhaps as I learn and use it more I'll come to think they're equal but different.

Quite a fun, incredibly simple, and very cheap thing to do. And now I have another strop :), and one that's gonna be far easier to take about the place too.

(And many thanks obviously to @Legion for; the first strop, all the bits to make the second, and continuing to patiently answer all my probably very stupid and simple q.s that could be found out easily with a 10s google search.)
 
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