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The World Shave Off Showdown

SHAVE OFF COMPLETE:

Vintage Gibbs Adjustable vs 2nd Gen British Aristocrat

Good Sunday afternoon all.. hope the day and your favorite Football team were winners!

Ok so I have to say now and then you have one of those Shaves! You know the kind where everything is just right! Well that's what I had in a light night Shave Off between these two old good looking razors from a couple of Allied World War counties, France and Britain. In this Shave Off they sure were warriors not so much against each other but battlin my 2 1/2 day beard which seemed longer than normal for that amount of time. Anyway this was an epic Shave Off and one that will stick in my mind. An not only for how great it was but also for the one thing that kind of spoiled what would have been the perfect late night shave. An it wasn't the gear I used but what happened was as I finished my shave and after giving myself a nice cool water rinse I went to turn on the hot water again to start cleaning my gear and the hot water handle just snapped! I mean I got a good strong grip but I ain't Superman or nothing and I was ok I guess it's time for a new set up, so of course the hot water was running. Not full out but about half way as I was mixing it with some cold water. So I go down under the sink to turn the hot water off and it's no go! The handle wouldn't budge and to make matters worse whomever installed it initially put the knob so close to the back of the drawer I couldn't get any leverage so out comes the tool box and unfortunately most of my heavy duty tools are at my warehouse as I've been redoing it and I brought most of my tools out there so with only a pair of pliers I was up for another hour trying to get the hot water off and I failed! It wouldn't budge no matter what I tried. Well the short story is I had to call a 24 hr plumbing service today and the guy did turn it off and he's coming back tomorrow to install and new faucet set up I have to buy tomorrow. So that was my two sided night.. one part great ( The Shave Off ) and one not so great. LOL

Anyway when I picked these two razors out of the hat I thought to myself, ok both awesome razors on their own but I know from my uses with each that the Gibbs on max setting is a lot more efficient than the 2nd Gen Brit which btw is no slouch so I thought setting # 4 on the Gibbs should be about right. My personal favorite setting is 5 but I kind of felt that would be an unfair matchup in the efficiency dept. An yes even though this Shave Off is all about the
"Smoothest Razor" the efficiency can make a difference in the scoring if the smoothness is very close and both these razors would not be in this competition of they weren't smooth shavers. So setting #4 it is on the Gibbs. For this Shave I pulled out M&M Naid Shave Soap which I got at the Maggard meet up and for some strange reason it's turning into an almost cream. I have to scoop some out and either bowl lather or place a dab on the end of my brush and then rub some on my face with my hands which is what I did last night. I'll also note the scent which I really enjoyed has diminished quite a bit so I don't know if anyone else experienced this same issue but aside from all that it still provides nice slickness and residual Ghost lather which I like a lot. For an aftershave I choose my friend Vidas/ Oleo #11 Aftershave and it's a barbershop type of scent and very light which is nice for a night shave. Normally I use Lavender for night shaves but wanted something different and I knew I'd be up for a few more hours. I used two once used Feather blades and of course I had to modify one for the Gibbs which took all of 20 seconds to accomplish. So Lathered up and decided to do my normal 2 pass WTG and ATG Shave and of course sectioned my face into 4 sections to keep things fair.


Gear used:

Gillette 2nd Gen British Aristocrat
Gibbs Adjustable
Feather blades
M&M Niad Shave soap
Oleo Soapworks # 11 aftershave
Black Wolf Synetetic



1st Pass WTG - I started with the 2nd Gen Crat on my right side and began my N to S and from the first couple of strokes I'm thinking to myself.. Now I know why like no love Aristocrats and especially this 2nd Gen along with my 1st Gen Brit and my US 1934. Just wonderful razors and although I sold 90% of my Aristocrat Collection I'm not sure I could ever let these 3 leave my den! This 2nd Gen has a bit of blade feel but not a whole lot. Audible feedback is a mid level at best and the razor has what I'd call almost perfect balance and is steathy efficient and there are a lot of modern razors that could take lessons from this razor in my humble opinion. Very easy to get around my mouth and under my nose. It was taking down quite a bit of stubble comfortably on the 1st pass so I'm really happy at this point and an excellent pass from the 2nd Gen. To continue the journey South I picked up my old friend the Gibbs adjustable and I didn't use my brass extended handle I have for it as I wanted it to be as it comes in it's case. Seems like I haven't used my ' Frenchie" in a while and for it's first spin I sure gave it a task trying to tackle my nasty neck cowlick and weird beard growth pattern on the right side of my neck which is absolutely the most difficult part of my whole face to shave. So I gave my skin a good stretch and proceeded downward using my 3 movement strokes and WOW, just WOW did it catch my off guard! This razor just took down my growth like it was just some pre softened mushy substance and it did it without one bit of hesitation and with incredible smoothness to boot. Damn at this point I knew I was in for a great Shave Off and I had better really focus in on these two razors because this may be a real close one I'm thinking. Finished the pass and an Excellent pass from the Gibbs! With it still in hand I head on over to the left side of my face right under my sideburns and begin my N to S pass and it's another WOW moment for me and the first thing I thought about was I remember my first shave with the Paradigm 17 4 shortly after it came out. I was taken back by it and I called one of my buddies right away and said this razor has a balance of both smoothness & efficiency with very little blade feel and unlike any razor I had used up to that point...well hello and welcome to the Gibbs adjustable on setting #4! Smooth and efficient is the only way to describe this setting... spectacular! Getting under my nose was no issue whatsoever as well as around my mouth and on my chin. In fact I took some down strokes going almost right on my lips and smooth as silk! So an excellent pass from the Frenchie! On to the last WTG pass going N to S using the Brit 2nd Gen and even though this side of my neck is a lot easier to shave than my right there was still enough stubble to challenge this or many other razors in my den and the Crat showed no respect for it as it cut through my growth like it was nothing and with smoothness and confidence. So another excellent pass! Ok I just did one WTG pass using these two awesome razors and they both took down a great amount of my growth on only one pass and after rinsing my face and doing a quick face feel it's close as far as beard reduction goes but the Gibbs has the edge up to this point but not by a whole lot but it was noticeable. Still if I was just doing a go to work shave I could have just stopped there. So an amazing WTG pass from these two.


2nd Pass ATG - Starting at the base of my neck on the right side using the Gibbs I gave my skin a very good stretch and began my S to N pass and was like it was shaving on ice it was so smooth and if there were a few hairs left from the WTG pass they had no chance as defying this razors would have been futile as it was taking no prisoners and just waltzed through whatever stubble was left and sent them hiding under my skin's surface! Once again I forgot how amazing this razor really is as most of my time away from this Shave Off has been spent shaving with a bunch of my modern razors but this razor in my opinion can compete with any modern razor and give it a run for its money as long as it's in good working order and the blades and settings are all in tune. Wow is all I keep saying to myself every time I take a stroke or two. Another excellent pass from the Gibbs. Grabbed the 2nd Gen to keep going S to N and once again the 2nd Gen did not disappoint on the ATG pass on my difficult right side. Very smooth with just a touch of blade feel and a little bit of feedback to know where you were at all times. Did the ATG pass under my nose and around my mouth just to test it out on those two areas and it came through with flying colors! This razor is a Gem and I have to shout out to Cap for doing a awesome job of cleaning it inside and out and making sure everything was in perfect alignment and I'd like to take time to say. In all of my experiences using vintage razors and any TTO or Adjustable there is a huge difference when the razor is in perfect ZEN mode as opposed to some vintage razor that is all clogged up, out of alignment and not performing to its potential. I've had shaves with Aristocrats and Fatboys to name a few that were like that and the difference is like night and day so I'd highly suggest sending your vintage razors out to Cap or anywhere you feel can give it a good overall tune up. It's well worth it in my opinion. So finished the pass and once again another excellent pass from the 2nd Gen Brit! Oh and I'll say this is a call out to all the Artisan razor makers please consider when designing a handle to create a barberpole that's as good as the one on this razor. Please! Gillette hit the nail on the head IMO! With the 2nd Gen still in hand I headed over to the base of my neck on my left side and headed North and once again this razor could be the only razor left in my den and I'd be perfectly happy it's such a wonderful razor! A great balance of smoothness and efficiency and it sent my stubble hiding on this pass! So before starting my last pass using the Gibbs I'll have to say the same for this razor.. one razor left in the den is a Gibbs and I'm again perfectly ok with that. I hear there is a Russian razor that is copying the Gibbs and all I can say it's it's got some mighty big shoes to fill and I wish him luck and hope he can capture the essence of this exceptional razor that some French guy a long time ago nailed as far as design goes. On this last pass the Gibbs was on a mission to seek and destroy any stubble that was not taken down in the last pass and as it quickly sent them diving deeply beneath the surface of my skin. Some people called this razor a " Frenchie Foo Foo " razor and I'll say I call it a " Frenchie Bulldog " as it's an A**Kickin razor in my opinion! Oh BTW went ATG all around my mouth and under my nose and still so freakin smooth! Imagine if you didn't have to modify a blade and it would be secured by the stops what this razor may be capable of? I don't know if it could be any better but in theory it could be. Anyway finished the last ATG pass and I just stood there for a minute looking at these two razors and saying for being so old it's amazing how good they both shave! This will be a tough on


Scoring system:

Gillette 2nd Gen British Aristocrat

1. Smoothness = 55 points
2. Efficiency = 13 1/2 points
3. Balance = 5 points
4. Maneuverability = 4 1/2 points
5. Glide = 4 1/2 points

Total score = 82 1/2 points


Gibbs Adjustable setting #4

1. Smoothness = 56 1/2 points
2. Efficiency = 14 1/2 points
3. Balance = 4 1/2 points
4. Maneuverability = 4 points.
5. Glide = 4 1/2 points

Total score = 84 points



So the Gibbs takes this one and moves on to the next round and I have to say this was one of the best Shave Offs I've done in the " Smoothest Razor " Shave Off and there is no loser here really and if I had turned down the Gibbs to a #3 setting who knows it might have been a tie. Two amazing razors and once awesome " Shave Experience " for me and hats off to both these razors!


Great Shaves my friends!

DB



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UPDATE:

Timeless High Polished Titanium.95 DC vs Paradigm 17 4



Next Shave Off razors have been picked out of the hat and we have two moderns that I’ve personally never shaved side by side with so this will be a good one. Individually both are efficient and smooth shaving razors so I’m really looking forward to this Shave Off.



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I am enjoying the return of the shave offs.

The Paradigm is a beauty. Everything I've heard it's smooth, but the Timeless is no slouch. Looking forward to this one. I've always wanted to try the Paradigm, so I'll like vicariously through this shave off :)
 
I would agree with Mark that the final four smoothest would be the RFB, RS10, 17-4 and Gibbs. Although the 17-4 and RS10 five a very similar shave I predict the RS10 being the overall champion. In my opinion the RS10’s thicker/taller guard gives it the smoothness advantage over the others.

Like @shaveSymptomatic said there is no smoother razor than the RS10. How interesting that a discontinued razor will a limited production could be so influential in the grand scheme.

Now gang is there a razor that is as efficient as the iTech AND smooth as the RS10 - that’s the holy grail of razors and a true RAD killer !
 
Now gang is there a razor that is as efficient as the iTech AND smooth as the RS10 - that’s the holy grail of razors and a true RAD killer !
The only thing that comes close to what you're describing is a 1.55 WR2. However, it's still not as smooth as an RS-10 but pretty darn close. If anyone has other suggestions, I'd love to know as well.
 
I would agree with Mark that the final four smoothest would be the RFB, RS10, 17-4 and Gibbs. Although the 17-4 and RS10 five a very similar shave I predict the RS10 being the overall champion. In my opinion the RS10’s thicker/taller guard gives it the smoothness advantage over the others.

Like @shaveSymptomatic said there is no smoother razor than the RS10. How interesting that a discontinued razor will a limited production could be so influential in the grand scheme.

Now gang is there a razor that is as efficient as the iTech AND smooth as the RS10 - that’s the holy grail of razors and a true RAD killer !
The only thing that comes close to what you're describing is a 1.55 WR2. However, it's still not as smooth as an RS-10 but pretty darn close. If anyone has other suggestions, I'd love to know as well.


@AJSharp and @shaveSymptomatic I have not used the WR2 1.45 or the 1.55 so I can't compare to those two razors but I'm sure I'll get to try them both eventually but I can say with confidence after taking so much time off from doing these Shave Offs and being able to shave with a lot of very or hyper efficient razors like the Ikon Tech and Mulue 2011 R41 along with both my Wolfman SS .94 DC & WR2 Titanium DC 1.25 OC/1.35 SB and I can with confidence now after a few uses that the Ikon Tech is still more efficient than either of the two Wolfman razors BUT with that said it is not as smooth as either one of them no matter OC or SB side of either razor. This was something that had been on my mind and wanted to revisit for my own personal knowledge. So basically what I wanted to know is " What's the most efficient razor in my den " . So I did a one pass shave with the Ikon Tech using a very aggressive version of my SSSST technique that uses very short buffing type strokes applying both my 3 stroke straight down then 30 degrees right and then back to center and 30 degrees left strokes with some x pattern strokes thrown in on my cheeks and neck areas and I was BBS Level 2 in 1 pass. No other razor in my den can that. So it still remains king of efficiency but again not as smooth and it requires more focus than either Wolfman razor. I'm not sure where the 1.45 that you have AJ would compare or the 1.55 my friend @shaveSymptomatic mentioned but I can't wait till I"m able to compare them to the Itech. Oh and I agree as of now none of the above are as smooth as the RS 10 which is not as efficient as any of the razors mentioned above but with the aggressive baseplate on more than capable of a two pass BBS shave no problem but it won't last as long as the BBS I'd get with the other razors. So those are my thoughts on the topic gentlemen.

Great shaves my friends! :thumbup1:
 
@AJSharp and @shaveSymptomatic I have not used the WR2 1.45 or the 1.55 so I can't compare to those two razors but I'm sure I'll get to try them both eventually but I can say with confidence after taking so much time off from doing these Shave Offs and being able to shave with a lot of very or hyper efficient razors like the Ikon Tech and Mulue 2011 R41 along with both my Wolfman SS .94 DC & WR2 Titanium DC 1.25 OC/1.35 SB and I can with confidence now after a few uses that the Ikon Tech is still more efficient than either of the two Wolfman razors BUT with that said it is not as smooth as either one of them no matter OC or SB side of either razor. This was something that had been on my mind and wanted to revisit for my own personal knowledge. So basically what I wanted to know is " What's the most efficient razor in my den " . So I did a one pass shave with the Ikon Tech using a very aggressive version of my SSSST technique that uses very short buffing type strokes applying both my 3 stroke straight down then 30 degrees right and then back to center and 30 degrees left strokes with some x pattern strokes thrown in on my cheeks and neck areas and I was BBS Level 2 in 1 pass. No other razor in my den can that. So it still remains king of efficiency but again not as smooth and it requires more focus than either Wolfman razor. I'm not sure where the 1.45 that you have AJ would compare or the 1.55 my friend @shaveSymptomatic mentioned but I can't wait till I"m able to compare them to the Itech. Oh and I agree as of now none of the above are as smooth as the RS 10 which is not as efficient as any of the razors mentioned above but with the aggressive baseplate on more than capable of a two pass BBS shave no problem but it won't last as long as the BBS I'd get with the other razors. So those are my thoughts on the topic gentlemen.

Great shaves my friends! :thumbup1:

Excellent observations!! :a29:

For me it is all about the balance between ‘efficiency’ and ‘smoothness!’ But that’s for me!!
 
Shave Off Complete!

Paradigm 17 4 vs Timeless Titanium DC .95 using the SB side only.

I waited to report this Shave Off as I did a late night shave and the end results were so close shave wise that I wanted to give it at least 12 to 15 hrs before reporting so maybe I'd get a better read on the shave I got from both of them and I"m glad I did which I'll explain in this post. So first up is the Paradigm 17 4 which to me the first modern razor that defined what a almost perfect balance of both efficiency and smoothness in one razor is. The first time I used it I was very surprised by it as another friend had told me what he had experienced with it and I'm like ok I"ve got to get one as I was going back and forth because of the handle which again at the time I wasn't sure I'd like which btw I now very much enjoy. Anyway to me it was trendsetter that was followed by other razors that provided the same balance & smoothness that the 17 4 did and maybe even surpassed it ( I'll leave those comments till later on ) anyway the razor is built like a freaking tank! It even feels like a substanale razor in hand that could last 5 lifetimes. Fit and finish is very good and it has a different tone to it than many other high polished razors I have and I'm assuming it's the 17 4 steel that's responsible for that but I may be wrong. It's a great razor and I'll leave it at that. On to the high polished Timeless Titanium .95 DC. Was at the Maggard shave meet where Timeless first announced it and had a prototype to show and I was smitten immediately and knew I had to have one as I have been a fan of not only my SS Timeless .95 DC but the company, it's owners and the excellent quality service they provide. Weighing in at 74 grams on my scale it is lighter than the 17 4 which comes in at an even 100 grams I had no issues adjusting to either razor when in hand so that was not a factor at all in determining the outcome of this Shave Off. The Timeless fit and finish is also excellent and aside from a high polished Wolfman and maybe a RS 10 ( have to put the 3 of them side by side ) well it's very good so I'm sure you get the drift. I have to say also I've never put these two razors side by side in a Shave Off so going into this Shave Off I had no clue which one would preval and take this Shave Off. I know some members chimed in and predicted the 17 4 would emerge the winner but I said going into this Shave Off to stay focused and call it like it I saw it or should I say felt it. Anyway I used two brand new Polsilver blades, DG Bandwagon Shave Soap and aftershave splash and my Paladin two band badger shave brush.


Decided to do my normal WTG and ATG 2 pass shave on 2 days growth and of course using my SSSST and a nice hot shower for prep. Sectioned my face in the normal 4 sections to make things fair.

Gear used:

Timeless Titanium .95 DC
Paradigm 17 4 SS
Polsilver blades
DG Bandwagon Shave soap & aftershave
Paladin two band shave brush


1st pass WTG - I wanted to start out with the Paradigm on my right side face and give the Timeless my right side neck. Both difficult to shave but the right side neck is the worst with my nasty swirling cowlick and weird beard growth pattern on my neck from right under my ear all along my jawline and eventually meeting up with my cowlick which is just right of my Adams apple. With Paradigm in hand I began my N to S pass and decided to stick to my normal 3 movement short buffing like stroke to get the most out of these two razors with a good skin stretch about 2 inches behind the razor head. Well the Paradigm and Polsilver went to work immediately taking down my growth and my beard offered no resistance to this combo as it took it down with some blade feel and audible feedback was very soft. The razor has its own unique feel to it and really doesn't have any noticeable shaving flaws in my opinion. No issues getting under my nose or around my mouth and my kind of difficult to shave chin didn't offer a whole lot of resistance but after passing over it I knew by feel than there was some stubble left to deal with on the next pass even though it had taken a good amount off on this pass. So an excellent pass from the Paradigm! Continuing downward on my neck with the Timeless the first thing you feel is the weight difference and your first instinct is to apply some pressure but it is not needed as the razor is plenty efficient to take down 2 days growth without using any. What was surprising was the Timeless was even quieter and had less blade feel than the Paradigm which really surprised me! Again remember I only used the SB side but I did at that moment turn the razor around and took two strokes just to compare the SB side to the OC side and there was a noticeable although subtle difference between the OC and SB but not as much as I've noticed the difference in the SS model. Just thought I'd throw that info in. Anyway this razor is very nimble and I feel like I'm driving a sports car around a track. A J hook with this razor is so easy to do and feels so natural I couldn't resist doing two on my cowlick. Wonderful! The pass went quickly even using the short strokes I almost felt like I hit the fast forward button on my TV. So an excellent pass from the Timeless Ti. With it in hand I went directly over to my left side and started my N to S pass right under my sideburn and like the 17 4 the stubble offered no resistance and was quickly taken down. Even though the head on the Timeless is got a higher profile I had no issues whatsoever getting under my nose and around my mouth the razor excelled. Very smooth take down on my chin whiskers and I was done with this section of my face and once again another excellent pass from the Ti. Picked up the 17 4 and with my much more predictable growth on my left side this pass was not long lasting and the Paradigm displayed it's balance of efficiency & Smoothness on this section and it was over in no time with excellent results. I did a quick rinse after finishing the WTG pass and relathered and btw the DG soap offered some nice slickness and I felt it also had enough residual slickness that if I had wanted to do a Reverse Skin Stretch on the last pass it would have been no problem and a note on the scent. When I first got it I wasn't sure if I liked it and was thinking of selling it but didn't and over time it has grown on me and I can say I like it. So I lathered up my face again ready for the ATG pass.

2nd Pass ATG - With the Timeless in hand at the base of my neck I gave my skin a good stretch and started my journey North and on this pass if there were any stubble left over from the first pass the TI was having not going to let them see any daylight as it sent them down below my skin level and I could feel them disappear. Another very quick excellent pass with this nimble razor and I'm in a grove and didn't want to lose it so picked up the 17 4 and continued upward and this razor was taking no prisoners either sending my stubble to their temporary grave. When I got to my mouth and under my lips I slowed down a bit as the weight of the razor came into play a tiny bit and I found it not as nimble around my mouth or under my nose as the Timeless on the ATG pass but had no problem with my chin. So a very good pass. With it in hand I headed over to the base of my neck on my left side and started my S to N pass and this pass was maybe the best for the Paradigm as it just scooted through the remaining stubble like it wasn't there! So an excellent pass for the 17 4! Grabbed the Ti and started up my face with a good skin stretch and wowser this razor just seems overall better than my SS .95 in every way. Can't explain it but smoother, more nimble and equal in efficiency. I think Timeless hit a winner with this razor. I loved the way it was on this ATG pass not only on my face but I didn't feel the need to slow down one bit under my nose or around my mouth and I just for the heck of it took a stroke or two right onto the top of my lips right from my chin going upward I had so much confidence in this razor. So another excellent pass from the Timeless Ti and this Shave Off is in the books.

Post Shave summary:

Ok I put this in because after the Shave Off with these two I did a face feel with my hands and also backed it up with a cotton pad and you guessed it.. dead even on beard reduction so I'm like I better wait at least 12 hrs as they both gave me a very solid level 2 BBS before using the scoring system. Ok as I'm writing this it's been over 24 hrs and I'm not only glad I waited to report this Shave Off but I've got a clear winner here using the scoring system.

Scoring system:

Paradigm 17 4

1. Smoothness = 56 points
2. Efficiency = 15 points
3. Balance = 4 points
4. Maneuverability = 4 points
5. Glide = 4 1/2 points

Total score = 83 1/2 points


Timeless Titanium .95 DC

1. Smoothness = 56 1/2 points
2. Efficiency = 15 points
3. Balance = 4 points
4. Maneuverability = 5 points.
5. Glide = 4 1/2 points

Total score = 85 points



So an upset happened based on some of the predictions by some of the members and I can assure you I have no bias in this Shave Off nor did I have any pre - perception of who I felt would take this one as like I mentioned I've never done a side by side with these two razors before. The Paradigm set the standard for a razor that offered both efficiency & smoothness and the Timeless matched it in efficiency and surpassed it slightly in smoothness and also was more nimble with a tad bit better balance which gave it a better score and I'd say this razor is a serious contender for the finial 4 and the overall champion. Don't get me wrong the Paradigm is an awesome razor and I have a lot of respect for it and you could not go wrong adding one to your collection but they are somewhat hard to get your hands on and command about $400 to $500 on the secondary market. The Timeless is easily obtained and offers a 30 day trial period and less expensive so take all that into consideration when choosing.

With that said I would recommend either razor in a NY heartbeat! Some of you may have had different results using these 2 razors but I can only give you my opinion on every razor I shave with and every Shave Off I do when comparing and doing a review.

Great Shaves my friends!


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