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The unfulfilled promise of a slant razor

I don’t have a particularly coarse beard and shave every other day. I’ve tried just about every blade there is with my EJ Chatsworth lined DE89. I get a very decent BBS shave from it, but it takes at least 3-4 passes to get there and I get some irritation due to the multiple passes.

“Try a slant razor” they say, so I started off with the relatively mild Parker semi-slant. I’ve used it now about a dozen times with everything from Feather to 7 o’clock (green) to Rapira to Personna Lab Blue and everything in between. Still I need the same 3-4 passes to get to BBS and still I have the aforementioned irritation, maybe a bit less, but lots more nicks than the DE89. I’ve tried altering the shave angle, lighter pressure, short strokes, etc. On the slant razor scale, I see the Parker semi is near the bottom of most people’s rankings.

I’m all-in on the concept and physics behind a slant razor, but based on my experience with the Parker, I don’t see any advantage over a regular DE razor. Any suggestions for a slant razor that one can actually buy as June 2024 that might fulfill the promise of a 1 or 2 pass BBS shave?
 
If you want BBS in two passes, get a Fatip and stick a Feather in it.

I don't own a FOCS, but that's partly because I have been using the Feather and Fatip OC combo since before the FOCS existed and I don't see how it could be better than what I already know.

Just be prepared for an adjustment period. Going from the de89 / Rapira to a Fatip / Feather combo is like switching from a sensible, reliable family saloon to a sporty, rear-wheel drive Italian cabriolet with a bit of flex in the chassis. Once you get used to it you'll think it's a fun, stylish little marvel, but it might give you a couple of scares in the process!
 
I don't own a FOCS, but that's partly because I have been using the Feather and Fatip OC combo since before the FOCS existed and I don't see how it could be better than what I already know.
I do own a FOCS, and it's ok, but I prefer the regular OC. And like you, I prefer it with a Feather. The FOCS might be a little more efficient but for me it tends to get nippy around my throat for some reason.
 
The FOCS might be a little more efficient but for me it tends to get nippy around my throat for some reason.

That's interesting. One thing that stopped me ever pulling the trigger on one is that the only comment I could find directly comparing the two suggested that the FOCS was actually milder than the OC.

Every time I look at Fatip razors and think, "Oooh, maybe I will get the slant...or maybe the Il Grosso!" I end up with another Grande OC in my cart! :laugh:
 

nemo

Lunatic Fringe
Staff member
Nothing like the Big Daddy 37 from Merkur (I prefer the vintage).
One pass, smooth, feels like no blade in there, good to go.
Just got another one off the auction site for under $20 all in -- June 2024.
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Do it.
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That's interesting. One thing that stopped me ever pulling the trigger on one is that the only comment I could find directly comparing the two suggested that the FOCS was actually milder than the OC.

Every time I look at Fatip razors and think, "Oooh, maybe I will get the slant...or maybe the Il Grosso!" I end up with another Grande OC in my cart! :laugh:
Overall, that may be true and it probably depends on how you're defining aggression and efficiency. I think I can get a tiny bit closer with the FOCS, but I'm not sure it's any more efficient in terms of getting to that point. As far as the nippiness, I think it probably is due to the geometry of the head and the geography of my face: the only place I run into problems is one spot next to my adam's apple. For the record, the only time I've ever drawn blood with the OC was when I was trying a different top cap. Otherwise it is pretty much an autopilot razor for me.
 
Merkur 37c or the razorock 37 (use your own handle or choose). I debate the Superslant L3 but it may be too much for me. The L2 borders on a tad too mild for me.
I really do like my EJ Chatsworth lined handle, so maybe trying a couple of different slant heads on it would be a better way to go. I took the head off of the Parker and put it on my handle as soon as I got it. Thanks.
 
I have yet to see any real proof that slants are any more efficient or aggressive than regular safety razors. I get the concept but it doesn't seem to work in the real world.

Most slants are not really made to be hyper aggressive (case in point, Merkur 37c). They may look aggressive, but they're made to be more smooth and comfortable for a given level of aggression. Another aspect people often miss is that the helical twist to the thin steel blade improves the rigidity of the edge. This helps to provide a smooth shave and oddly enough, allows less sharp blades to perform well. The slant tends to work well for the person with a heavy beard.

I don't think a one pass BBS is in the cards for any slant. Some of the more aggressive slants might be able to do it in two passes. Examples would be the Superslant already mentioned and the older Wunderbar (sp).
 
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I never got along with slants. Sold my FOCS, love the regular OC piccolo.

I got a 37C and didn’t sell it, but it’s not used that often.

The 37C feels smooth, but that’s it. I get more weepers with it, specially ATG.

I don’t know, I can’t get past the thought of that twisted blade corners doing some damage when slicing through my jawline and neck weird angles.
 
I really do like my EJ Chatsworth lined handle, so maybe trying a couple of different slant heads on it would be a better way to go. I took the head off of the Parker and put it on my handle as soon as I got it. Thanks.

Get the razorock german 37 head. It's a copy of the older 37c head that has already been recommended, except it will work with your handle. And it's cheap.

I used one when I had chronic RSI and struggled to hold a razor. Paired with a heavy handle it would shave under it's own weight. I still prefer the Fatips overall, but the results from the razorock were just fine and it is fairly aggressive, which the current merkur 37c is not.
 
I used a slant (Merkur 39C) exclusively for almost 9 years. I prefer aggressive razors because I have sensitive skin and can't shave ATG.

You've probably been told that slanted razors create a "guillotine" effect that slices through stubble more easily, and I used to believe it, but this is simply untrue, and nonsensical if you think about it. The blade itself would have to be cut at a slanted angle to actually create any slicing action, which it obviously isn't.

Slanting (technically applying torsion to) the blade is a design crutch used to increase blade stiffness on imprecisely constructed razors, specifically the chrome-plated brass models which were pretty much the only available DEs until fairly recently. They do not increase aggression or efficiency, but people generally found them to shave better because the more rigid blade would have a tendency to chatter and flex less.

But now we have so many razors that are precisely constructed out of steel, aluminum, titanium, unplated brass, etc that hold the blade rigidly without needing to twist the blade that slants really provide no real benefit today.

So no, in the current environment high quality slants are nonsensical, maybe if you insist on buying a cheap Merkur or something like those plastic PAA things, but as an actual shaving tool they're not beneficial and people recommending them now are stuck in an old mindset.

What you *do* want is a modern, precise razor with more aggression (greater effeciency). The EJ89 is pretty mild, so you have a lot of options to choose from. Personally, I can vouch for the Henson AL13 Agressive. Here's a pretty decent chart comparing razor aggression from Razorock.

 
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