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The R41, Fatip and Pearl: A shaving guide to the three most aggressive safety razors

Some background to why a reasonable sane person gets started with these razors
Welcome to a brief visit into my personal shaving den or (as my wife, the love of my life, puts it) the guestroom toilet :001_smile. Any oddities in my language can be referred to me being a Swede by birth and habit and as such not a hundred per cent comfortable with the English language. I would like to start by noting that all three razors in this comparison are very good and very aggressive razors that are guaranteed to provide a long lasting BBS with three passes (WTG, CTG, ATG). There are differences between them. Differences I hope I will manage to clarify. Which of the razors you choose is partly more an issue of personal preference rather than a matter of efficiency.

When I started with wet shaving in 2008 it was not due to curiosity but out of necessity. My very coarse stubble started to turn grey and began to adopt a similarity to barbed wire. My family increasingly complained that my stubble hurt them. It tore my collars. I could shred a woolen scarf in no time. I shaved twice a day with the Mach3, but it didn't help much. Furthermore, I always looked a bit unkempt at work. For a while, I grew a beard, but I got tired of it. Finally I tried wet shaving, really without much hope, but to my surprise a new world opened up to me.

I soon had tried a series of razors, razor blades and soaps, but I realized that the tools I would need in order to succeed probably was a bit on the outside the most common options. I really would have been helped in my search if I had had access to a comparison of the most aggressive razors, how they relate to each other and their unique characteristics. I have now written this guide to others who are where I was a few years ago.

I have only included those two edged razors that are produced today, even though I refer to the R41 2011, which I personally regard as a good but more unpredictable version of the current R41 2013. I said thanks and goodbye to the R41 2011 after a week with the new R41 2013, a decision I have regretted so finally I bought a replacement on the big auction site. The shaving results are, in my opinion, about the same but the shaving properties are a bit different.
I would like to point out that my personal opinion is that I don't see any point in using more aggressive razors than I need to. At the same time, the reason to why I started wet shaving has made BBS to something of an obsession to me, hence my slightly puerile motto which unfortunately holds a certain amount of truth. I would have saved some blood if I had had a different attitude. I do use milder razors as well, some of them listed below. Shaving at its best is a great mix of meditation and exploration.

Aggressive razors that can work as an introduction to very aggressive razors
There are a number of aggressive modern razors that are not sufficiently aggressive to compare to these three razors, but they can serve as a gateway to them. Below are some of the most common:
  • Merkur adjustable razors. When you find that you consistently use these very good razors on the highest setting it may be a sign that it's time to make a change. However, I cannot comment on the Merkur Vision since I never used it and I probably never will. The Merkur adjustable razors are as close as you can get to the very aggressive razors. Even so they tend to be a little bit rough on the highest setting.
  • Merkur Slants. Amazing and aggressive razors that gives a nice shave, but they are not extremely aggressive.
  • SABI also known as Mariner and other brand names. In my personal view the Sabi is more rough than aggressive.
  • Gillette adjustables and Gillette open combs (not produced today but easily available and favorites of many). Wonderful razors, but Gillette always put smoothness before aggressiveness why no Gillette razor can be classified as very aggressive, not even an adjustable on the highest setting.
  • H2, Above The Tie´s most aggressive razor is a very well made razor. The finish is perfect. When I look at it is clear to me that that is inspired by the Gillette tradition. The spiraled knurdling on the short handle my razor has got is clearly inspired from Gillette´s British Aristocrats and the H2 razor head has, in my opinion, a lot in common with the Gillette Long Comb. A combination of the best Gillette ever did. Despite its aggressiveness the shaves are among the smoothest I have experienced, but the shaves are not as close as with the three razors I compare here.

The aforementioned razors are all quite efficient, but they are not extremely efficient. In addition to the razors mentioned here, there are some other aggressive razors and a number of very aggressive single edged shaving tools, but they are outside this comparison.

The Mühle R41
$bild 1 R41.jpg
From left to right: Feather DX, Mühle R41 and Gillette Tuckaway (I love the Tuckaway but that´s another post)

Few if any razors have received such attention as the R41. It's a bit like the character "Keyser Söse" in the film "The Usual Suspects". Everyone seems to know about the R41 and most seem to have an opinion about it, few have really seen it and it has a reputation for bloodthirstiness. Besides that the R41 is the most beloved of razors, but at the same time the most disliked. The many strong and differencing opinions makes it a little difficult to write about it, but now that I have started I guess that I just as well finish and make some enemies for life.

R41 is a medium heavy razor with very good finish and balance. It is probably impossible to find a safety razor that provides a closer shave than the R41. I have seen it described as "the closest to a straight you can get". I'm not an expert in straight razors in any way, but I have experience and I have never achieved such a close shave with a straight razor as I have with R41. The only shaving tool I've used that gives me a closer shave than R41 is my Feather DX (see the picture above), which perhaps shouldn´t be called a straight razor.

Who are right those who describe R41 as a monster or those who describe R41 as God's gift to the wet shavers of the world? I would say that both groups are right, but that they speak from different perspectives. To me the R41 (2011) was a monster when I started using it, but I immediately felt that it was a well constructed razor and that it was my lack of technique that was the cause of the problem . The R41 bit me despite the fact that my daily razor was Fatip, which is an extremely aggressive as well, not to mention the Feather DX my other to go razor at the time. After some time I adapted to the R41 (2011 and later 2013) and the R41 transformed from monster to become my most used razor that always gives me smooth and perfect BBS shaves without pain or suffering day after day. What I'm trying to say is that the learning curve is long and very steep. I have read posts written by people who immediately adapted to the R41 and who from day one could use it for daily three pass shaves, but there can´t be many of them. In most cases, even the most experienced shaver probably has to fight a long uphill battle before he finally learns to master the R41, if he ever does. There are plenty of nearly new R41 for sale. If you want put a point to it the R41 could be called the ultimate shaving tutor for those with sadomasochistic tendencies. The R41 bites like a cobra (the snake not the razor) when you make the slightest error or if you lose your concentration. The only quality razor that is less forgiving than R41 2013 is the old R41 2011.

If you have sensitive skin and heavy beard growth the R41 enables a very close shave with two passes, or even one pass. I would even argue that R41 in that case is a very good choice. The problem arises when you seek BBS, and therefore have to do a THIRD pass ATG. After probably more than 200 shaves with R41 2013 and R41 2011, I still can get a little bit nervous when I shave my upper lip ATG with the R41. I have an old small fading scar under my nose to prove that my concerns are justified. As an adaptation to R41´s high demands on the user, I have come to use it with Voskhod blades. They are sharp, but far from super sharp, and at the same time, very smooth. They give me that little extra half a second to react before R41 tries to bite. My understanding is that R41 itself is so aggressive that you do not need the sharpest blades.

For me, who by have lived for about 30 years with chronic stubble, R41 has a huge advantage. It is an indescribable pleasure to wake up in the morning one day after I shaved last time and feel that I still have an acceptable level of stubble, not much worse than if I had just shaved with a Mach3.

In conclusion, R41 is in a class of its own when it comes to aggression. I would highly recommend it to those with sensitive skin, but do try one of the other aggressive razors first, if nothing else, it means that the R41 learning process becomes shorter and less painful. I get a little upset when I read posts where a newly started wet shaver asks for advice regarding something a little more aggressive than his first razor and gets the advice “try the R41”. In my opinion that´s mean. There is an ocean of razors that fits the gap between the Mühle R89/Merkur 34/Edwin Jagger and the R41, some good choices are listed above.

Fatip also known as Premax, Mühle R89 (old version) and other names
$Bild2 Fatip.jpg
Meet the Fatip family, from the left: Piccolo, Grande, Retro and Plisson Joris. In the foreground a Fatboy for size reference.

Fatip Grande was my first really aggressive double egded razor. The first shaves with Fatip are rough, but you can learn how to use it and the reward is an extremely good shaving experience. I switched to Fatip when I discovered that I always used my beloved Merkur Progress at the highest setting.

Fatip is not as aggressive as the R41. It can be said to be R41´s a kinder brother with a learning curve not nearly as steep as for the R41 but still steep enough to provide excellent opportunities for both razor burn and cuts. However if you have your shaving technique in order it shouldn´t be too large an obstacle. Once you have become accustomed to the Fatip, it becomes a pleasant acquaintance and you can get good daily relaxed shaves as long as you respect that this is a really aggressive safety razor. Fatip renders me BBS for about ten hours which is less than R41.

Fatip razors are manufactured in three to me known variants that share the same razor head design:

  • Piccolo, which has a short handle in retro style. The whole razor is made in brass with a solid handle which makes it heavy for its size. It is very maneuverable and, in my view, it´s the most user friendly of the Fatip razors. I like nimble razors with short handles (like the Tuckaway in the first picture).
  • Grande, which is not large according to the modern safety razor fashion. With its hollow handle it is not as heavy as the Piccolo. Grande is the most common variant and also the one who gets the most criticism for bad finish. Of the three variants of Fatip it is the one I use least.
  • Retro, which is the latest addition to the family. My personal view is that the name Retro is misleading I would rather call the design futuristic. The long narrow handle doesn´t add more weight but it somehow it seems to make the shaves smoother. I have no other razor that is so good for making J-hooks. If you are new to the Fatip the long handle may function as a visual confirmation that you are using the correct shaving angle.

When I read posts on Fatip, they often tend to focus on its bad finish. None of my four Fatips have worse finish than my Gillette razors in very good condition from the 1900-1940's. Fatip is an inexpensive razor meant to be a workhorse for those with heavy beard growth, as most of the posts also admits. However are you are interested in buying something beautiful there is a five times more expensive option: Plisson also known as Joris. Joris is a very exclusive and beautifully designed razor. Equipped with palladium plated brass handle it´s also rather heavy. The razor head is said not to be completely identical to Fatip´s but I can´t tell the difference (see pictures below). Personally, I probably wouldn´t notice if someone swapped heads between them. Even so, I would say that the Joris gives me a slightly smoother shave, probably because of the extremely well balanced handle. It is important to know that those who buys a Joris cannot expect the quality to match the high price. I have the same issue as several others whose reviews I've read; the finish on the top cap is far from what the price should motivate. In any case, I recommend anyone who is interested in purchasing a Joris to first try a Fatip to find out whether they feel comfortable with the razor
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$bild 3 fatip2.jpg$Bild4 Fatip3.png
On top the Fatip head, below the Joris. Can you tell the difference except for Nickel vs Palladium plating?

When I, in my mind, started to write this guide I realized there was a gap in my knowledge that I felt I really ought to fill. There was a Fatip I hadn´t shaved with; a version of the Fatip Grande that goes under the brand name Schermes Roedter 1909, so I ordered it and got it last week. It is a modified Fatip Grande with the bottom of the top cap “shaved down” about one millimeter thus resulting in a less bent (nearly flat) razor blade and increased blade exposure. The effect is that the razor blade sticks out from the top cap more or less unsupported. So what you get is a real life version of a razor blade on a stick, a razor blade with an extreme amount of blade flexing. The razorblade-on-a-stick joke isn´t as fun when you´re actually supposed to shave with it. I tried to shave with it twice, but had to give up and finish with The R41 both times. After the second attempt I took the picture below of it, and tossed the top cap in the trash. I have never done that before and hopefully I´ll never find any reason to do so again. Of course it might have been an excellent razor to someone else, but I really can´t imagine who that might have been.

Pearl, the razor with many names
$Bild 6 Pearl.jpg
To the left a Pearl with an EJ handle. To the right a Pearl with the smallest handle they come by.

In my country, we say that a dear child has many names. The proof of Pearl's quality as a shaver could be read in the number of companies that put their brand name on it:

  • Cadet
  • Razorrock
  • Matador
  • Korium
  • How to grow a moustache
And several other.

The razors original name is Pearl and it´s made by Pearl Shaving a manufacturer located in India. Don't be fooled by its origin. The Pearl razor holds a very high class. Regarding the aesthetic one can have many views, but those who like thick handles that looks like a foot pin from an old motorcycle have every reason to rejoice. As a tribute to the Pearl I first replaced its handle with the handle of my Mühle R102 (R41 with white handle) and more lately with an elegant handle from an Edwin Jagger that I got on a sale. I believe the Pearl deserves it.

My first shave with Pearl was the only time I ever got a perfect first shave with an unfamiliar razor. It led me to greatly underestimate its aggressiveness so during my second shave with Pearl I got razor burns that I probably never will forget. Pearl is an inexpensive razor, but there is nothing cheap about it. The finish on the razor head is of highest class. Compared to Fatip is Pearl less aggressive. At the same time, it is a very user friendly tool that does what it can not to hurt the user. It´s rather insensitive to the shaving angle and it doesn´t mind too much if you happen to apply a little pressure (within reasonable limits of course, everything is relative when talking about these razors). Pearls forgiving shaving properties makes it possible to use a more aggressive shaving style than neither Fatip nor R41 would allow. That does not mean that it is a razor for newbies.

There is a Pearl open comb of TTO-model. It is a very good razor with an outstanding sound feed back. It is aggressive, but not compared to the razors in this comparison. It has nothing in common with the three piece Pearl I describe here.

Personal preferences
I use all of these razors frequently, sometimes all three within a week and the R41 at least two times a week and often more. I really like all of them. However if someone would ask for my help in choosing a first really aggressive razor, I would certainly recommend the Pearl. At the same time I must admit that my hand almost automatically gravitates to the R41 in the morning. In any case the prices of these razors are relatively low so when you have acquired one of them and had experienced the sensation of a perfect BBS shave you will probably soon have bought the other two as well. My recommendation, however, is to save the R41 for last.

I don't use Feather razor blades in any of these razors. As I wrote above I use Voskhod in the R41. In Pearl and Fatip/Joris, I use almost exclusively use Gillette 7 O'clock Super Platinum Black. It´s a very sharp razor blade, not quite as sharp as the Feather, but it is much smoother. Unfortunately, it is also more expensive than the Feather, but in my opinion it is well worth the money.

I hope some of you might find my scribbling helpful in your shaving explorations.

Thank You for Your Time and Happy Shaving
Polarbeard
 
I found myself relating to your post on a number of levels. You describe your greying beard as like barbed wire, and I think of mine in terms of tungsten carbide. When I looked at your first photo I noticed that I had the same R41 on the same stand with the same Feather AC on the same stand behind it displayed on my shaving shelf (I also have a Japanese AC DX). I also have and love the Fatip (Grande). High on my list with these razors are my Pre-WWI Single Rings (and one double) and ABC's, which I double shim.

I always enjoy your posts - keep up the good work.

Cheers, george
 
Amazingly informative post. Thank you. I use a few of the razors listed in the semi-aggressive list, mostly slants and old Gillette open combs. I have often wanted to try the legendary R41, but have never. I might try a few of the others on this list and see if its worth moving up to the super aggressive level, or stay where I am. Thanks again.
 
Thanks for the guide, Polarbeard. I bought a r41 (2013) 6 months ago. Needed something very aggressive for my beard [probably a bit tougher than barbwire :lol:]. Been shaving with techs and superspeeds for 20 years. Today I received in the post a Fatip Piccolo. I think after reading your guide I am going to buy a Pearl as well. It seems I am going in the direction opposite to your recommendation. As for the blades recommendation for the R41 - I only use 3 blades in it - 7 o'clock super platinum India, Astra Superior Platinum, and Rapira Platinum Lux.
 
I found myself relating to your post on a number of levels. You describe your greying beard as like barbed wire, and I think of mine in terms of tungsten carbide. When I looked at your first photo I noticed that I had the same R41 on the same stand with the same Feather AC on the same stand behind it displayed on my shaving shelf (I also have a Japanese AC DX). I also have and love the Fatip (Grande). High on my list with these razors are my Pre-WWI Single Rings (and one double) and ABC's, which I double shim.

I always enjoy your posts - keep up the good work.

Cheers, george
Thanks again George, It´s really nice to know that I have others facing the same problems out there. As being a Scandinavian I´m rather alone to have extremely coarse beard. Personally I have all the razors I need (a lot more than that to be honest), even if that´s not what my subconsious tells me. It keeps whispering how nice it would be with a mint Gillette Aristocrat no. 15. The prices of that razor have so far managed to stop me from buying one.
 
Way to go! Thanks for a well formulated write up. I did not know about the Pearl and its different reincarnations. :thumbup1:
 
Thanks for the guide, Polarbeard. I bought a r41 (2013) 6 months ago. Needed something very aggressive for my beard [probably a bit tougher than barbwire :lol:]. Been shaving with techs and superspeeds for 20 years. Today I received in the post a Fatip Piccolo. I think after reading your guide I am going to buy a Pearl as well. It seems I am going in the direction opposite to your recommendation. As for the blades recommendation for the R41 - I only use 3 blades in it - 7 o'clock super platinum India, Astra Superior Platinum, and Rapira Platinum Lux.

Its a large step to go from those razors directly to the R41. You are a very brave man:thumbup1:. Buy the Pearl, It really is a great razor for those mornings that you don´t feel quite waken enough to risk it with the R41.
 
Tack, Polarbear. I have gravitated myself to more aggressive razors such as the R41, Joris and Vision 2000. Your article puts things into perspective and points me toward some options that I have yet to explore. Much appreciated.
 
Thanks Polarbeard for this nice and comprehensive overview of those three aggressive razors. I've considering purchasing an R41, but I'm still hesitating and probably still will for some time. The reason is that I do own a Merkur Futur and get consistently daily irritation free BBS shaves. Thus, the question that I always asked myself is whether an R41 would provide better shaves.
 
Thanks Polarbeard for this nice and comprehensive overview of those three aggressive razors. I've considering purchasing an R41, but I'm still hesitating and probably still will for some time. The reason is that I do own a Merkur Futur and get consistently daily irritation free BBS shaves. Thus, the question that I always asked myself is whether an R41 would provide better shaves.
If you are happy with the Futur (in my opinion it is a great but heavy razor, one of the best) and get BBS with no irritation, why bother? What you would get with the R41 is a much more long lasting BBS, but at the initial cost of cuts and razor burn. As I wrote I would highly recommend trying the Pearl first. It gives a little closer shaves than the Futur on maximum setting, but it is a really smooth and forgiving shaver, and you can get one for about $20. The great bonus with the R41 though is that (as I wrote) it quickly will help you to get rid of all bad shaving habits you didn´t know you had, but it will make you pay dearly while doing so.
 
Thanks for the guide! I went from a DE89 to an R41 like you mentioned a lot of people did. Oddly enough it was really smooth and irritation free on the first use, but as I progressed it started to feel rougher (probably because I was using it every day.) and I now alternate it so I can practice my technique with it. I rarely get cut with it, but if I'm not careful I get major irritation. I will look into some of these middle ground aggressive razors though to see if I can't reduce the learning curve. :)

It is largely my fault though. I always go for the BBS with the R41, even when I know I'll be paying for it as soon as I reach for the alum. :biggrin1:
 
Thanks for the guide! I went from a DE89 to an R41 like you mentioned a lot of people did. Oddly enough it was really smooth and irritation free on the first use, but as I progressed it started to feel rougher (probably because I was using it every day.) and I now alternate it so I can practice my technique with it. I rarely get cut with it, but if I'm not careful I get major irritation. I will look into some of these middle ground aggressive razors though to see if I can't reduce the learning curve. :)

It is largely my fault though. I always go for the BBS with the R41, even when I know I'll be paying for it as soon as I reach for the alum. :biggrin1:
The trick with the R41 is to get consistently smooth three pass daily shaves with it. Do try the Fatip or Pearl, since you already are familiar with the R41 I assure you that you soon will get nearly as close daily shaves as with the R41 but without the irritation. They are both really efficient razors but "better behaved" than the R41.
 
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