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The Parker Variant and Mergress Adjustable: A Side by Side Test and Review

To tell the difference between the old and new; the new has very small alignment marks on the head and cap, almost unnoticeable. The older ones have large alignment marks shown in most Internet pictures.

Someone wrote Merkur and they said they redesigned the molds because of wear over the years.
Right. Here's my newly arrived Progress, perhaps 75-85 (definitely pre 85). Calibration and alignment spot on.
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nemo

Lunatic Fringe
Staff member
Mergress .... replaces that nasty plastic knob on the Progress with a chrome knob ...

Nasty? Guess I need to head over to Pep Boys and pick up some chrome knobs for the old Porsche 356.

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I guess some of us just like nasty. :whistling:
 
Most people don't realize the Merkur Progress has been around since 1955.

...and I love the retro knob that's been there since the original.
 
Most people don't realize the Merkur Progress has been around since 1955.

...and I love the retro knob that's been there since the original.

+1, very stylish.

I'm also surprised how much people prefer "1" as zero position. To me it's again logic, I've never seen any measuring device with the scale starting from "1". I don't own vintage Progresses, but there were "0" on them.

What about Parker?

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I get the numbers on the Progress and Variant being odd in the places they start and all of that, also the calibration questions. In my case the numbers have never been a bother because they only provide a fixed frame of reference to go by in setting up the blade angle I prefer. In other words they don't matter to me.
 
I have a Mergress that Eric Mer out of suburban Chicago updated from a Progress. It's a wonderful addition but I still prefer the weight and balance of the Progress itself. The Mergress lends a bit too much weight to the handle. The knob on the original Progress is fantastic. Great resting point for the small finger.

I don't understand the whole calibration discussion at all.

When you tighten down the blade all the way in the Progress just see where the 1 lands. That's your index/starting point. Just mark it or remember it. That's your 1 every time.

I have a Wolfman SB and the new Timeless in both .68 & .95. The Timeless is my favorite razor but the Progress is right there with it.

We tend to chase things in this hobby. The Original Merkur Progress is the perfect double edge safety razor. The holy grail in shaving is readily available and only $50.
 
I've just spent a week with a new Variant from Howi. I bought the silver one. Everything is straight and well-executed.

I started on setting 3 and worked my way up to 6. I find that setting 4.5 suits me best. I actually had a less efficient shave on 6, because I had to be light-handed with it and missed a few spots.

I really like this razor. And, I like being able to shave with a higher setting for 2 passes, then dial it down to 3 to touch up my neck.

I also have a Timeless OC 0.68. I find the razors similar in their weight, general head design, and shave. Of course, the Timeless is a nicer razor. But, I have no problem recommending the Variant. Also, Howi the distributor is a pleasure to deal with.
 
The head designs are pretty similar and agree the shaves both DE's provide are pretty close to each other which says a lot about the Variant.

Howi is fun to talk to and very knowledgeable about the wet shaving niche world. The Variant's a nice one!
 
I've just spent a week with a new Variant from Howi. I bought the silver one. Everything is straight and well-executed.

I started on setting 3 and worked my way up to 6. I find that setting 4.5 suits me best. I actually had a less efficient shave on 6, because I had to be light-handed with it and missed a few spots.

I really like this razor. And, I like being able to shave with a higher setting for 2 passes, then dial it down to 3 to touch up my neck.

I also have a Timeless OC 0.68. I find the razors similar in their weight, general head design, and shave. Of course, the Timeless is a nicer razor. But, I have no problem recommending the Variant. Also, Howi the distributor is a pleasure to deal with.
Why not try a shave upping the aggression on each pass?
 
I think I misunderstood, what did not work for me was coming up in aggression with a Fatboy. Settings were 3/6/6 and I left it there because of irritation.
Start way less aggressive. I just had a shave with two days growth; and that's a lot for my beard. So the trick is to start mild. Very mild. I used a Silver Star blade, and shaved 1.5; 2.5; 3.0; 3.5. Result? Comfortable and very smooth shave that still very smooth over eight hours later. No irritation, no nicks, cuts or weeper
I also got a better shave than with the Rapira Platinum Lux. That was very good, but the Silver Star seems better.
 
I shaved today with my Variant (3 days growth) and my last shave before was with my Fatboy (3 days growth). I used the same Astra SP (3rd and 4th shaves) and the same soap, Stirling Ben Franklin. My conclusion, without any reasonable doubts... the Variant shaves circles around the Fatboy. Way more efficient razor in MY hands. Having a Rockwell 6s also, I am getting to the point where I only like my Fatboy and Slim to look at them. Unlike my British SS flare tip which is a world class shaver... Anyway, count me in with the Variant fans, great shaver![/QUOTE]

A few days ago I shaved with the Variant, using the very efficient method of increasing aggression on each pass, and using a new Silver Star blade. I got a very, very good shave. The Silver Star pairs well and the Variant was absolutely excellent. It delivered a very close comfortable shave. It's rapidly moving to the top tier of my regular rotation!
 
I shaved today with my Variant (3 days growth) and my last shave before was with my Fatboy (3 days growth). I used the same Astra SP (3rd and 4th shaves) and the same soap, Stirling Ben Franklin. My conclusion, without any reasonable doubts... the Variant shaves circles around the Fatboy. Way more efficient razor in MY hands. Having a Rockwell 6s also, I am getting to the point where I only like my Fatboy and Slim to look at them. Unlike my British SS flare tip which is a world class shaver... Anyway, count me in with the Variant fans, great shaver!

A few days ago I shaved with the Variant, using the very efficient method of increasing aggression on each pass, and using a new Silver Star blade. I got a very, very good shave. The Silver Star pairs well and the Variant was absolutely excellent. It delivered a very close comfortable shave. It's rapidly moving to the top tier of my regular rotation![/QUOTE]
Agreed, Variant moving up.
 
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