Chan Eil Whiskers
Fumbling about.
Where'd you buy and what did you look for in the hair? I know zero about hair extensions.
The Key
- Thread starter Seraphim
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Where'd you buy and what did you look for in the hair? I know zero about hair extensions.
Ethnic Beauty Supplies Generally have huge selections. You would want consistency in thickness and texture. They probably won't let you test if they cut equally of ease.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
My posts on this have been moved to their own separate thread "Standardising the HHT".
Thank you & Happy New Year MODS
Oh, and Happy New Year everyone else !
Thank you & Happy New Year MODS
Oh, and Happy New Year everyone else !
It's on my to-do list.You have to try making a human hair shave brush!
I started honing knives many years ago, and cutting paper was always a good test to see if the whole knife bevel is sharp, also shows any nicks. Recently started honing razors. When I set my razor bevel I start by killing whatever edge it has by stroking it lightly on the side of the hone, and confirming that it has no edge by trying to cut paper. During the setting I go for the burr method, and as I progress look at the undercutting and straightness of the slurry line, but I always find myself back at the paper cutting test. Think its because it's what I know and I can accurately tell if the whole of the bevel is set by doing it. I have seen some guys cutting cherry tomatoes and grapes, but there is not always a ready supply of them around when you need them, just when you don't need them, like in food. Always a bit of paper around.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
There is no need to kill the edge. It serves no purpose. The burr method ensures that you are honing new steel and creating a new apex. Killing the edge needlessly removes steel and forces more unneccessary steel removal when setting the new bevel. JMHO but think about it. The paper test is probably a reasonably good way to check a bevel, yeah, but the burr method itself is its own check.
I have trouble sensing the burr with my fingertips. I "think" I can sense it, but it's barely there, and I sometimes wonder if my mind is just making it up.
Despite that, I believe I do create a burr though. I use lots of pressure and lots n lots of laps. And more importantly, it does end up making a good edge that shaves well.
I have been told that sensing the burr is a delicate thing and that I will be able to better sense it, with time and practice.
What do you think?
Despite that, I believe I do create a burr though. I use lots of pressure and lots n lots of laps. And more importantly, it does end up making a good edge that shaves well.
I have been told that sensing the burr is a delicate thing and that I will be able to better sense it, with time and practice.
What do you think?
Chan Eil Whiskers
Fumbling about.
Barely there is good enough, but imaginary isn't.
I had a lot of trouble "getting it" with the burr method. Now I can feel the burr. Sometimes it's very easy to feel the burr (a biggish burr I guess) on some parts of the edge, but, on other parts the burr is very subtle. As long as I'm pretty certain the burr is not imaginary I'm good.
I move from setting the burr to refining the edge on the bevel setting stone (1K Chosera). Once that's done I check the edge on my wet fingernail. Not much pressure. Gotta feel exactly right across 100% of the edge or it's a no go (or, rather, a go back to the bevel setting again).
The shave test is the ultimate authority.
Happy shaves,
Jim
The burr method works but it eats up more steel than necessary and it’s not always easy feeing the burr.
Try my cherry tomato test. The blade should cut a cherry tomato with minimal pressure and minimal slicing motion.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Try my cherry tomato test. The blade should cut a cherry tomato with minimal pressure and minimal slicing motion.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
^I second that, Doc’s test really works. The burr method is ok when starting out but I think as you progress there are better methods that don’t remove as much metal.
Yes, I have seen Doc226's video with the tomato.
I'll try that. Maybe my thick fingers are just not sensitive enough for the burr test.
It's interesting that just 1k of coarseness can be enough to create an edge sharp enough to cut a tomato with just a touch. That level of sharpness is viewed as excellent for kitchen cutlery.
Yet almost all kitchens have a norton 4/8 combo for the cutlery. Maybe not necessary.
I think I'll try setting a bevel on kitchen cutlery and see how the knife works in the kitchen. I don't need to worry about making it smooth as tomatoes don't have sensitive nerves.
I'll try that. Maybe my thick fingers are just not sensitive enough for the burr test.
It's interesting that just 1k of coarseness can be enough to create an edge sharp enough to cut a tomato with just a touch. That level of sharpness is viewed as excellent for kitchen cutlery.
Yet almost all kitchens have a norton 4/8 combo for the cutlery. Maybe not necessary.
I think I'll try setting a bevel on kitchen cutlery and see how the knife works in the kitchen. I don't need to worry about making it smooth as tomatoes don't have sensitive nerves.
I think a lot of this is due in part to bevel angle as well. Kitchen knives generally have much more obtuse bevel so by nature they won’t cut as finely.
The problem is kitchen knives require a lot of skill to free hand a perfectly consistent bevel. A straight razor has a built in honing jig. People seem to lose their minds when they encounter a razor that requires a “roll” to hone the full bevel length. That’s adding a single smooth motion in ONE AXIS, still riding on a jig(spine).
If you’ve recently said a swear word in frustration over a straight razor that was almost perfectly straight, you’re not freehanding a perfect kitchen knife bevel anytime soon.
If you’ve recently said a swear word in frustration over a straight razor that was almost perfectly straight, you’re not freehanding a perfect kitchen knife bevel anytime soon.
Yeah, I just tried it out. Kitchen knife on 1200 bevel setter. Not sharp. The cutlery needed the 4/8 combo
Yeah now go watch Murray carter or bob Kramer free hand a perfectly uniform bevel on a curved kitchen knife while having a conversation, and ponder the fact that they claim to be metallurgists more than honing experts. Those guys aren’t mere mortals like the rest of us, that’s for sure.
The more common result for us mortals is that the knife ends up plenty sharp, but not perfectly uniform by a long shot.
Any fully apexed edge deburred can cut arm hair easily. Even off a 140 atoma.
Yes, it can cut arm hair. But can it treetop? Unlikely. Unless you have mad skills like Carter or Doc.
I think the problem with a knife is honing a consistent enough bevel to be able to hone down each side reaching the edge perfectly and not generating any burrs or irregularities. Developing an irregular burr during sharpening and then trying to strop it off just doesn’t yield nearly the same edge quality.
It’s MUCH easier to form a perfectly consistent bevel with a straight razor.
It’s MUCH easier to form a perfectly consistent bevel with a straight razor.
Guide rails are cheap and I am sure they would work. During the honing, they give a kitchen knife a spine just like a straight razor.
Why don't we use them? Nobody I know does, and when I worked in a restaurant, none of the chefs used them.
I suspect because free handing is plenty good enough.
In the kitchen we're not trying to shave the fuzz off a peach. We just want to chop it up. And freehanding creates plenty enough sharp for chopping things up.
https://www.amazon.com/Chroma-ST-G-...ng+guide&qid=1554728364&s=home-garden&sr=1-25
Why don't we use them? Nobody I know does, and when I worked in a restaurant, none of the chefs used them.
I suspect because free handing is plenty good enough.
In the kitchen we're not trying to shave the fuzz off a peach. We just want to chop it up. And freehanding creates plenty enough sharp for chopping things up.
https://www.amazon.com/Chroma-ST-G-...ng+guide&qid=1554728364&s=home-garden&sr=1-25
