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The Journal of a Backwards Professor

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
I think you got “freestyle” from @Cal. I’m more “doing this hurt my face last night, but barely any stubble 20 hours later, so…”
 

Rosseforp

I think this fits, Gents
Wednesday, April 1
Razor:
GC84-P
Blade: Super-Max BD(1)
Brush: Omega Silver Tip
Soap: MdC Agrumes
Aftershave: Pinaud Clubman
Additional Care: Witch hazel
Additional Care: Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm



Tonight's shave was pretty darn good. #9 Fixed Four

After dipping the badger in the water mug, I remembered to count the swirls and stopped at 10.
Looking at the brush, I was surprised to see it had picked up as much as it had, and painted a thin layer on my face and chin. Thin.
Another dip in the water and I got another amazing creamy lather.
I started over my lips XTG, and carefully eased my way around the corners, then XTG on my chin. I shaved my face WTG, then shaved my neck ATG.
It wasn't completely smooth, but comfortable enough for easy light reducing strokes till it felt smooth.

There was still plenty of lather for a nice 2nd pass, mostly nose to ear on my face, then WTG on my neck. I was using just enough pressure to keep the guard planted, it was smooth as silk, shaving steep to neutral.

There was still stubble on my trouble spots, and after dipping the badger again, there was enough runny lather for a nice detail pass under my chin.

The Witch hazel gave me a light sting, as did the Clubman. My skin felt silky, and the Nivea balm left my face supple.

I don't feel much of anything on my face or neck, my skin feels pretty good too.

DFS

20200401_185301[1].jpg
 

Rosseforp

I think this fits, Gents
Friday, April 3
Razor:
GC84-P
Blade: Super-Max BD(4)
Brush: Omega Silver Tip
Soap: MdC Agrumes
Aftershave: "the Veg"
Additional Care: Witch hazel
Additional Care: Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm
Fixed Four: # 10

I skipped shaving last night, so with an extra days worth of growth, my 1st pass with the GC84 was full steep ATG at the base of my neck. I used short sweeping passes barely lifting the guard, maybe 2-3 quick strokes to reduce the stubble.
The razor felt smooth and comfortable, with no pulling or tugging.
After getting to my jawline I shaved ear to nose on my face and chin, WTG and XTG around my lips.
I got a little careless and felt the blade catch the edge of my left jaw, but there was no blood, just a stubborn hair.

My face felt pretty nice after rinsing, but a finish pass was in order, as I had gone overboard with the MdC, almost 10 seconds loading the slightly damp badger.

Just a dip in the water and I had another fine lather. I am starting to get the hang of face lathering without using a bowl. Even though I seem to be spending more time lathering up my face, there is zero bowl lathering time, which could be as long as 3-5 minutes.
Face lathering is immoral but I can't stop myself.480.jpg
Using premium products to learn face lathering does help, I am sure.

The 2nd pass was freestyle around my lips then nose to ear for my face and N-S on my chin and neck. When I'm shaving XTG the razor sounds like it is scrapping, but it feels smooth. I am using more pressure than I use with my Piccolo, but not much.
The GC84 seems to demand constant contact with my skin.
It wants more attention, I can't throw it around with abandon, at least not yet.


I splashed on the Witch hazel right after rinsing, and patted on "the Veg" and cleaned up my gear.
20200403_215231.jpg
My face felt slick as I smoothed the Nivea balm into my skin.
There is a small nick.

But I got a Damn Fine Shave tonight.

April4.jpg
 

Rosseforp

I think this fits, Gents
Saturday, April 4
Razor:
GC84-P
Blade: Super-Max BD(5)
Brush: Omega Silver Tip
Soap: MdC Agrumes
Aftershave: "the Veg"
Additional Care: Witch hazel
Additional Care: Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm
Fixed Four: # 11


OK, the 1st lather was in need of a bit more hydration, it builds so fast and I am still used to having wet lather in the bowl.
I just dipped the brush a few times during the 1st pass and re-applied. I probably only gave the brush 20 swirls loading, the amount of lather is amazing.

I started over my lips XTG, and mostly nose to ear the rest of my face, the GC84 still wants to bite around the corners if I don't pay attention.

I shaved my neck ATG using light sweeping reduction passes, keeping the guard in contact with my skin, varying the pressure to keep it cutting smoothly.

After the brush started to splay I dipped it in the water mug and really hydrated the lather nicely. I have been dipping the brush after painting strokes.
nia8.jpg

This is what I have been doing wrong!!!

The lather was so nice and slick I could barely feel the rest of the shave, ear to nose and XTG on my face and over my lips. The WTG pass on my neck was so smooth the razor just glided over my skin.

There was still plenty of lather in the brush, so I lathered up lightly and cleaned up my gear, then rinsed off.

The Witch hazel went on super smooth and cool, the "Veg" barely stung at all, and the Nivea balm went on almost glassy.

The right side of my face is almost as close as my SE1, and the left side isn't far behind. My neck is about as good as it ever gets. I'm still getting some patchy areas, but they are getting fewer.

This was a really close comfortable shave for 2 easy passes.

DFS

There is room for improvement.
It hasn't unseated the Piccolo yet.
I really want to try a Gillette Platinum.
I really want to try the GC OC84
I really want to try PdP 63

Fixed Four, Fixed Four, Fixed Four, Fixed Four.


20200404_201048.jpg
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
I started over my lips XTG, and mostly nose to ear the rest of my face, the GC84 still wants to bite around the corners if I don't pay attention.

I had a similar issue. Easily fixed.

The other thing I've learned is that no matter how little pressure you apply to your skin, there will be a 'wave' of skin ahead of the blade. It may be very small and quite likely is judging from the size of weepers that are occurring, but they can happen because that 'wave' has no distance to propagate into. The more pressure used, the taller that wave ahead of the blade becomes and the larger, and deeper, that weeper could be.

Think about the below pic and how waves propagate. The razor starting to move top left instigating that movement. The blue and/or red waves would be your skin surface ahead of the razor from the pressure applied. When those waves can no longer travel, they bunch up, you shave into and over them and plane off the tops creating a weeper.

400px-Seismic_wave_prop_mine.gif


This is why I was always getting a weeper right side of my mouth. The same spot every time. I'd be stroking from my ear towards the corner of my mouth. A wave of skin ahead of the razor and blade, and when I'd get to the corner of my mouth, that wave had no where to go, bunched up and I'd plane the top of that wave off just a tiny bit and get a weeper.

To overcome that I stretch my skin tighter and shave in a slightly different direction. Either slightly up or slightly down when I get to the same spot, but never straight into the corner of my mouth anymore. That wave needs a direction to travel in, so I gave it one. No more weeper there.

An advantage to using a razor with gap is you can feel the tension of your skin in the gap increase before it bites. Remove that gap, like with a Fatip, and you no longer get that warning.
 

Rosseforp

I think this fits, Gents
An advantage to using a razor with gap is you can feel the tension of your skin in the gap increase before it bites. Remove that gap, like with a Fatip, and you no longer get that warning.
My Fatip' push the wave out of the way, at least in that area.
vermillion.png
I have faint "marionette lines" just outside the oral commisure, where the few hairs there grow flat. I can shave there with any of my techs and flare tips, merkur15c, GC68, SLOC, Fatip*, even my Gillette Guard, without a care. OK, the Mk1 does give warning, but stops just sort of biting.

My slim anything over #7, and my New SC, I need to start paying attention. Weepers and nicks will occur, and my GC84-P, GC OC 84 have both drawn blood, they did give a warning shot, but it wasn't heeded.
I pay extra attention when using my 2 razors that use AC blades and have avoided any damage in that area.

You would thing after 7 shaves in a row with the same kit I would have figured out how to avoid that.
I must be stubborn

The last few shaves, just because I had to pay attention shaving over the divot, I have been free-styling around my lips and getting very nice results. Mainly making sure that I approach the lines at 90 degrees and it isn't an issue.

Changing to another blade isn't an option as I have 2 1/2 more weeks with this kit.
Fixed Four, Fixed Four, Fixed Four, Fixed Four.
 

Rosseforp

I think this fits, Gents
Sunday, April 5
Razor:
GC84-P
Blade: Super-Max BD(6)
Brush: Omega Silver Tip
Soap: MdC Agrumes
Aftershave: "the Veg"
Additional Care: Witch hazel
Additional Care: Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm
Fixed Four: #12



I think I am starting to get face lathering figured out. I made sure the tips of the brush were wet, loaded about half as long as I would if using a bowl.
20200330_092030.jpg
With MdC, that is like 20 swirls. It doesn't look like there is enough on the tips to get even 1 pass, but I am not fooled.
I keep wondering how my other soaps face lather compared to MdC. Will AdP also need only a few swirls, and what of PdP 63?
Fixed Four.

I brushed a very thin coat on my face to start, then splayed the brush and dipped it in the water mug, getting it nice and damp.

As soon as I started to swirl the wet runny brush around my face the lather bloomed into a perfectly hydrated warm cushion.
With an awesome lather the 1st pass was over with glee, the razor sliding effortlessly across my face WTG and down my neck, N-S.
A quick rinse and I brushed another instant lather on my face, so slick I was able to shave my neck directly ATG, long sweeping passes, and ear to nose on my face and chin, and nose to ear over my lips.

I still felt some stubble, and there was plenty of lather for a full 3rd pass, nose to ear on my face and WTG for my neck.
Since it was mostly a touch-up pass, I did a lot of buffing, the blade sounded like it was scraping. Not that it is dull, so to say, but it isn't cutting efficiently.
The first blade felt like this also, I binned it after 9 shaves, not because it felt dull, just seemed like it needs a little more rigidity, maybe it will smooth out after a few more shaves.

I keep thinking of using a shim with my GC68-P, making it a GC78 as @Cal would say. That will have to wait. Fixed Four.
I don't think I want to try a shim with my GC84, although there is talk of some gents out there that would like to see a GC95.
I don't know if using a shim violates the Fixed Four rules..........

The Witch hazel gave me just a hint of a tingle, the "Veg" stung for a second or two. The Nivea balm smoothed it all out, for a nice shave.

Nothing really stands out with tonight's shave, it was just overall good.

Very little patchiness, I feel my technique is improving with the GC84-P, I got a really great lather, the blade seems to be lacking at this point.
Fixed Four.

Still a DFS

20200405_190355.jpg
 
I don't know if using a shim violates the Fixed Four rules..........
It does, in the same way as using different baseplates for Rockwells and Karves. :yesnod:

I know we all love experiments, but the main aim of the Fixed Four is to get better at using our chosen equipment (and if you keep modifying it that ain't gonna happen). :nonod:

That's just my two cents Doug (I hope you don't mind the capital D).

FOOTNOTE
Polishing your RazoRock GC84's cap (for better reflections) is permitted. :wink2:
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
Doug,

Part of the fun with MdC is to try to figure out how little soap you actually need to load to get the soap to lather marvelously. Frankly, I'm not sure any amount is too little.

They say you can wave the brush around in the air near the MdC puck and get enough soap, but I've not tried that. When I'm using MdC I usually use about three or four swirls of the brush (which has been soaked and shaken so it's damp) on the dry MdC puck. That's plenty of soap. It might be more loading than necessary.

I'd bet a nickel you can cut the amount of loading down to a fraction of what you're doing. It's kinda a game amongst MdC fans.

Face lathering is immoral but I can't stop myself.480.jpg

I'm always aware that I can as a face latherer always revisit the puck later in the shave. If I need a little bit more soap it's not hard to find the puck. Depending on the soap and the brush and the number of passes I do and how I'm holding my mouth I might decide to refresh the brush with soap; this usually means much less loading than initially.

Can you load any other soap like you load MdC?

Not in my experience. It's not like I've tried every soap, but I've tried a few. Some soaps require endless loading of the brush to get enough soap to lather. In describing them some of their fans - this particularly applies to MWF - will say you have to load them like you hate them meaning you spend so much time loading it's like you're trying to use the soap up faster to get rid of it.

MdC is the opposite. Load it like you love it. It's precious. Use as little as possible. Find out how little that is (if you can).

One of the many errors I've made - from a certain point of view - was to acquire and use far too many soaps. Another was to jump around from soap to soap too frequently. It's not that doing these things is evil of course, but I have a ton of soaps now which I never use.

BTW, MWF is incredibly drying to my skin. I'll never use it again, but a lot of guys like it.


1586181528212.png


I'm not sure which soaps you've used, but you've found one of the very best soaps available in MdC. It's a simple soap; it's not all loaded up with fats like some of the super-fatted artisan soaps. The artisan soaps have their place I think especially for the truly excellent post shave some deliver. However, they are expensive and tend to stop up the pipes in my old house.

I'm not badmouthing artisan soaps though. I'm not planning to never use them again. In fact, I'll be buying more of Frank's stuff (Ethos Grooming Essentials) before too long I'd guess. However, the simple soaps such as MdC have their place especially if you like them and don't find them drying to your skin. Currently I'm favoring simple soaps.

One I like even better than MdC is the now unobtanium ABC hard soap. The soft version is available but I've not tried it. The stuff is more expensive than MdC though.

Price is of course a factor and more so for some than others, but the most expensive soaps I own are the ones I've used once and never used again.


Vitos %22Red%22 4-1-20. 380.jpg


The soap I'm using most of the time now is Vitos Extra Super Coco. It's a terrific soap for me in all respects. The only possible downside I could see for anyone is the scent meaning there really isn't much of a scent because the nice scent it has is extremely faint. Other than that it's a great soap. So great that it might be the only soap I would have purchased had I purchased it first and had I had the good sense to recognize how excellent it is. Luckily I finally stumbled across it.

The other nice thing about Vitos is the price. Check it out on Connaught. I'd suggest starting with the 100 ml size. I've got in transit the 1000 ml block. That's how much I like it.

To be clear I'm not saying you need to try Vitos or any other soap if you are sold on MdC. Personally I find MdC delightful in all respects except it's a tad drying for me if I use it day after day.

I rate soaps mostly by the quality of shave they deliver but also by how easy they are to use. Some are difficult to hydrate properly or something like that making them too much trouble for me (example WSP Rustic). Some have horrible scents (Tabac). Some are good but not as good as others in their price range.

A few stand out regardless of price. MdC is one of those. Vitos is another.

Much might depend on your water, your whiskers, your skin, and what you like.


HyaluronicAcidForFaces.480.jpg

The best product I've found, and I've tried a ton of them, to help with my dry skin is Hyaluronic Acid. I know others use it, others who don't have dry skin, and also love it. I apply a couple of drops or globs to my air drying but still damp post shave skin. It soaks in rapidly. After a minute or so I apply my splash. Occasionally I'll dampen my skin and apply a bit more at bedtime. It really helps. A lot.

Someone once accused me of brevity.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
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Rosseforp

I think this fits, Gents
It does, in the same way as using different baseplates for Rockwells and Karves. :yesnod:

I know we all love experiments, but the main aim of the Fixed Four is to get better at using our chosen equipment (and if you keep modifying it that ain't gonna happen). :nonod:
I did swap handles, but they are identical in length. One is 2 grams lighter. (internal modifications). I have been using the same 37 gram handle since 3/27. I had not thought of that.
Making mental note, new Fixed Four date 4/27
Not that I would try a shim in my GC68-P :idea: how did you find the GC78 compares to GC84-P?

That's just my two cents Doug (I hope you don't mind the capital D).
Just don't call me late to dinner
 
Not that I would try a shim in my GC68-P :idea: how did you find the GC78 compares to GC84-P?
For me the single shim improved the GC68 immensely, but the extra 0.10mm gap still didn't let me feel the blade (although it must have increased its exposure some). The GC84 was like a completely different razor because I could feel the blade (at its HUGE exposure of ±0).

Does that make sense? :letterk1:
 

Rosseforp

I think this fits, Gents
They say you can wave the brush around in the air near the MdC puck and get enough soap, but I've not tried that. When I'm using MdC I usually use about three or four swirls of the brush (which has been soaked and shaken so it's damp) on the dry MdC puck. That's plenty of soap. It might be more loading than necessary.

I'd bet a nickel you can cut the amount of loading down to a fraction of what you're doing. It's kinda a game amongst MdC fans.
When I started my wet-shaving journey last year I had used only Edge and Barbasol, and that was 30+ years ago.


I am still learning new tricks with MdC. I thought I had it dialed in bowl lathering, damp, shaken brush, 10-20 swirls and at least a teaspoon of filtered water in the bowl. Add water as needed.
I used the side of the bowl to squeeze lather from the knot, and mostly painted it on my face.
That works pretty much with all my soaps, though most do require a much longer loading time.

MdC is the only soap I have strictly face lathered with, and I am stuck with it until the end of the month.
Fixed Four Month of April
I could use a bowl, but I am starting to get the hang of face lathering. It certainly needs less time on the puck. I have used as little as 5 swirls. It was hard to stop. I still got plenty of lather. It wasn't the best, but it was enough.
That was before I started to get the ratio figured out.

Can you load any other soap like you load MdC?
AdP Colonia?

For me, Williams and MWF both take 100-200 swirls and perform the same. One is much cheaper. Mix a half bar of Shea Butter Dove hand soap with Williams and it is better than MWF. At least that is what I have heard.
Arko outperforms them both, and my wife likes the scent. I hear it also repels moths.....
She also likes Proraso Green, which I find performs quite good for the price.
I have about a dozen soaps, some of the cheap Razorock soaps perform excellent.
Mike's Natural Soaps was my first artisan soap, and I am fond of the lime.

I was good with those soaps until my brother gifted me a tub of AdP.
Maybe not as simple as MdC, but I do think it fits in the same category. Both list Stearic Acid as the first ingredient.

Wickham's, Wholly Kaw, and PdP also help to fill the soap drawer, and I have been looking at SV Felce, but how many soaps does one actually need? :pipe:

I digress
 

Rosseforp

I think this fits, Gents
Monday, April 6
Razor:
GC84-P
Blade: Super-Max BD(7)
Brush: Omega Silver Tip
Soap: MdC Agrumes
Aftershave:Clubman
Additional Care: Witch hazel
Additional Care: Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm
Fixed Four: # 13

Tonight's shave was all right.

I started with a damp brush, 3 shakes and I tried to stop at 5 swirls, but my hand instinctively switched directions and got another 2 swirls in before I stopped. With some quick swirls on my face I once again had plenty of lather, then I dipped the splayed brush in the water mug and it delivered a super slick warm cushion of lather on my face.
Face lathering is immoral but I can't stop myself.480.jpg
As I put the razor to my face up against my right side-burn, I let the razor slide all the way down my neck, one steady sweep, maintaining even pressure. Even though the blade sounded like it was scraping, it was still smooth, and I could feel just how much was being trimmed in one pass.
It felt so comfortable that I decided to do a one pass WTG shave, to see how much my technique has improved.

My Piccolo SE has delivered many effortless one pass shaves, close shaves. Comfortable one pass shaves.

Tonight my GC84 gave me a shave like that. Except it wasn't effortless.
But it was all right.
There is room for improvement.

How much room is there?
Fixed Four Month of April
I have 3 more weeks to find out.

20200406_200957.jpg
 

Rosseforp

I think this fits, Gents
For me the single shim improved the GC68 immensely, but the extra 0.10mm gap still didn't let me feel the blade (although it must have increased its exposure some). The GC84 was like a completely different razor because I could feel the blade (at its HUGE exposure of ±0).

Does that make sense? :letterk1:
It does.

The difference between a Mk1 and a Mk2 is there, make no mistake. But for me the difference is subtle, the Mk1 makes the blade feel softer, the extra exposure lets the blade flex and conform.
The difference I feel between my GC68 and my GC84, I think mirrors your experience.

The GC68 is a grab-an-go razor, very easy to use. But it needs just a bit more. The GC84 is much less subtle. It commands respect. As I refine my technique it is becoming more friendly. It is not boring. I really think it needs another blade, but I made my choice.
Fixed Four of April
 

Rosseforp

I think this fits, Gents
For me the single shim improved the GC68 immensely, but the extra 0.10mm gap still didn't let me feel the blade (although it must have increased its exposure some).
I have been hesitant to use a shim in a modern razor. As I understand one of the reasons for using a shim is because older razor blades produced were thicker, and the shim makes up for that with razors designed during that time period.

A modern razor should be designed for blades currently available, negating the use of a shim, was my initial feeling.

Recently I have used a shim in my prewar tech, my Y2 steel baseplate tech, and my Heritage. While the techs saw some improvement in efficiency, it came at the expense of some comfort. My Heritage however, moved up a step in the ladder in both comfort and efficiency.
believe it or not, this 'old dog' can still learn new tricks

Knowing already that I can improve the efficiency of my GC84 by refining my technique, the shim will stay in the Heritage. The techs are back in the comfort of their padded case.
And my GC OC84 baseplate is waiting it's turn, should I desire a bit more exposure.
Fixed Four Month of April
 

Rosseforp

I think this fits, Gents
Tuesday, April 7
Razor:
GC84-P
Blade: Super-Max BD(8)
Brush: Omega Silver Tip
Soap: MdC Agrumes
Aftershave:Pinaud Clubman
Additional Care: Witch hazel
Additional Care: Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm
Fixed Four: # 14

Tonight was a comfortable shave.

I hit the dry puck with a damp brush, 5 swirls. It looked like there was nothing on my brush, until, I put the brush to my face and there was plenty of lather for the 1st pass.
Nice and slick, the 1st pass was WTG all the way, still paying special attention around the corners of my lips.

Alas, I had to go back to the puck for 3 more swirls to get enough lather for the 2nd pass. My MdC brush loading technique has not yet achieved a 3 swirl 3 pass shave. Yet!
A little more pressure on the brush, I have been barely brushing the puck, it is dry before I am done shaving.
Yeah, maybe that's the trick!!!

I shaved nose to ear on my face, and another WTG pass with buffing on my neck.

I wasn't going for a BBS, I wanted to see how close a shave the GC84 will give me without an ATG pass.
And the results are nice.
Tonight's shave was smooth, I didn't notice the blade scraping as much over my "trouble spots", the BD(8) just might have another week's worth of shaves in it.......

The Witch hazel felt nice, and the Clubman only gave a tiny sting. After the Nivea balm my face is very smooth, with some patchy spots. ZERO irritation.

Yep, it was a DFS


20200408_085404[1].jpg
 

Rosseforp

I think this fits, Gents
Wednesday, April 8

Razor:
GC84-P
Blade: Super-Max BD(9)
Brush: Omega Silver Tip
Soap: MdC Agrumes
Aftershave: "the Veg"
Fixed Four: #15

With a bit of pressure and 5 quick swirls my damp brush had enough soap on the tips to see. Brushing the warm badger on my face feels nice, then a dip in the warm water to fully hydrate the lather feels supreme on my skin.

As I started shaving my neck ATG and got to my "trouble spot" on the back of my left jaw, I started buffing ATG until it was smooth. The blade is still making a noisy scraping sound, but it isn't tugging at all. It doesn't feel dull, but it doesn't feel sharp either...... I finished the left side of my face ATG and decided to finish up with a one pass ATG on the rest of my neck and face.
I did some freestyle around my lips, then I carefully shaved my chin area XTG and ATG. Maybe my chin is a good place to have a not-so-sharp blade, I could feel it.
I brushed a thin lather on my face while I cleaned up my gear, then rinsed and put everything away.

I could feel my face just starting to tighten up and slapped on the Witch hazel, then the "Veg", with nary a sting. I finished with Nivea balm.

My face feels good, like I barely shaved.
A good shave was had, a comfortable shave.
A Damn Good Shave.

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Rosseforp

I think this fits, Gents
Thursday, April 9

Razor:
GC84-P
Blade: Super-Max BD(10)
Brush: Omega Silver Tip
Soap: MdC Agrumes
Aftershave: "the Veg"
Fixed Four: #16


My kit delivered another fine lather, I got the brush just damp enough that I didn't need to add water to get a full face of MdC, and some splattered around the sink.
The brush was damp.

I do like this brush, the first time I used it I knew it was a winner. There was almost no break-in needed, the first shave it was ready. It is larger than my Omega 10066 boar, even though the specs say they are the same, 24 knot and 56 loft. It feels great on my face and neck.

The shave was much like last night, I started shaving my neck steeply ATG, buffing until it felt smooth. then I shaved around my lips and chin, freestyle and XTG. I finished with a nose to ear pass on my face and rinsed off, cleaned up my gear.

The Witch hazel and "Veg" gave nary a wink, and the Nivea balm felt smooth with some patches.

Definitely a Socially Acceptable Shave.

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