The great 3D Printing thread

[Ron R]

Is this the same one?

Yes that is the same one, @riverrun had some input into the handle and is really good with computers. My razor was gifted and has no markings like the original 1st printed ones. So the boys called it the TNNSER "Toms No Name Single Edge Razor" Tom did not have a name for it at the time, some of his razors are named by razor & shaving enthusiasts that are in his group of friends from my understanding.

 

[luvmysuper]

Last Halloween the wife and I went to a Costume Party dressed as Princess Leia and Han Solo respectively. I printed out the Princess Leia blaster for the wife and the Han Solo blaster for myself and I think it came out pretty well. Pics of my print below and then the original file I used to do the print.

I just want to throw some odds and ends in there to show that there's a whole lot more than shaving brush handles that can be made.

Han Solo Blaster by Smirf123

This is a blaster is a design for Han Solo from Star Wars Designed originally by Alan Stanford Original site:https://www.myminifactory.com/object/hans-solo-blaster-2488

www.thingiverse.com

 

[trentr]

I thought I might add this to a 3d thread, regarding razor scales, I have printed 2 sets. 1 worked out fairly nicely. Holes were a bit undersize, so perfect to drill and be just right. The other set the holes were a bit ragged and oversize. Not the best for easy pinning. The good set was a bit on the thick side, but nice and rigid. The big hole set was more to my liking on thickness but a bit flexy feeling. They both work. One could likely tweak the fill % or what ever and use different filament... (I am no 3d wizard, can ya tell?) but I just wanted to note, if you use a premade file/program and what ever filament you have laying around... you get workable scales that upgrade a GD66 scale for sure. If you are looking to create ivory quality scales for your treasured keepsake or show piece... perhaps go a different route. Or find someone that is more proficient with 3d printing haha

 

[luvmysuper]

I thought I might add this to a 3d thread, regarding razor scales, I have printed 2 sets. 1 worked out fairly nicely. Holes were a bit undersize, so perfect to drill and be just right. The other set the holes were a bit ragged and oversize. Not the best for easy pinning. The good set was a bit on the thick side, but nice and rigid. The big hole set was more to my liking on thickness but a bit flexy feeling. They both work. One could likely tweak the fill % or what ever and use different filament... (I am no 3d wizard, can ya tell?) but I just wanted to note, if you use a premade file/program and what ever filament you have laying around... you get workable scales that upgrade a GD66 scale for sure. If you are looking to create ivory quality scales for your treasured keepsake or show piece... perhaps go a different route. Or find someone that is more proficient with 3d printing haha

It's funny how you can tweak the layer height and infill percent and get totally different results.
I'll add that print orientation can make a HUGE difference.
I try to imagine the stress risers of a given piece and print so my layer runs are perpendicular to the stress.
With the Old Spice lid you get more strength printing it flat, but you get better details printing it vertically.

 

[trentr]

It's funny how you can tweak the layer height and infill percent and get totally different results.
I'll add that print orientation can make a HUGE difference.
I try to imagine the stress risers of a given piece and print so my layer runs are perpendicular to the stress.
With the Old Spice lid you get more strength printing it flat, but you get better details printing it vertically.

Ya.... see I can comprehend about half that. You obviously are more well versed in the 3d world than I haha.

Do you tape the bed or no? Sometimes things come right off. Sometimes they move around. Sometimes they stick so tight you break the glass trying to get them off! GRRRR Usually tape now and have decent luck. Also use a raft to aid in removal from print bed.

 

[luvmysuper]

Ya.... see I can comprehend about half that. You obviously are more well versed in the 3d world than I haha.

Do you tape the bed or no? Sometimes things come right off. Sometimes they move around. Sometimes they stick so tight you break the glass trying to get them off! GRRRR Usually tape now and have decent luck. Also use a raft to aid in removal from print bed.

I will sometimes use blue painters tape, but usually I use Overture filament that comes with a BuildTak type sheet.
Peel and stick and it's a great surface. Good for a whole reel.
I'll mention that it does leave a residue, not a big deal on my aluminum bed, but might be problematic with a glass bed.
If I get sticking I squirt a little isopropyl alcohol around the perimeter and work my way under with a very thin and flexible putty knife. Print material makes a difference, so while that works for ABS and PETG, I wouldn't use it on PLA.
A raft or brim can help as well.

 

[bjm]

Ya.... see I can comprehend about half that. You obviously are more well versed in the 3d world than I haha.

Do you tape the bed or no? Sometimes things come right off. Sometimes they move around. Sometimes they stick so tight you break the glass trying to get them off! GRRRR Usually tape now and have decent luck. Also use a raft to aid in removal from print bed.

I've also used a glue stick to help some of my prints stick to the bed. I usually don't use it unless a print fails, but it's a quick fix before I restart the print job. I've only used PLA for my prints so that may also be a factor.

 

[luvmysuper]

I've also used a glue stick to help some of my prints stick to the bed. I usually don't use it unless a print fails, but it's a quick fix before I restart the print job. I've only used PLA for my prints so that may also be a factor.

PLA is a great, easy material to work with.
ABS can be a pain with warping but it's hardy and resilient.
PETG is great, but you have to watch it. If you get a gob build up of PETG on your nozzle you can't dissolve it like you can PLA or ABS.
You have to disassemble the print head, bake it in an oven and scrape the goop off.
Not a material you want to start and walk away from.
Ask me how I know! LOL

 

[trentr]

Mostly what we do with the 3d printer is play, so it is PLA 90% of the time. We originally got it to print a model of something we were planning to cast out of aluminum so one could see/hold/experience it without the expense of building a mold and casting an aluminum part to find out you want to change something and you have a $15,000 mold you cannot use. So that does not need fancy filament either.

 

[luvmysuper]

Mostly what we do with the 3d printer is play, so it is PLA 90% of the time. We originally got it to print a model of something we were planning to cast out of aluminum so one could see/hold/experience it without the expense of building a mold and casting an aluminum part to find out you want to change something and you have a $15,000 mold you cannot use. So that does not need fancy filament either.

There is water soluble filament that you can print an object, embed in plaster or other casting material then wash out the filament leaving a mold ready to go.
Kind of like lost wax.

 

[trentr]

There is water soluble filament that you can print an object, embed in plaster or other casting material then wash out the filament leaving a mold ready to go.
Kind of like lost wax.

Very interesting. I was not aware.

 

[luvmysuper]

You can also use PLA and embed it in a silca/plaster molding, then burn out the PLA in a furnace.
I've never done these methods, I've only read about them.

 

[trentr]

You can also use PLA and embed it in a silca/plaster molding, then burn out the PLA in a furnace.

They sort of went from a futuristic novelty item to a useful/affordable little machine. What can that thing NOT do or help do?

 

[luvmysuper]

It's a great tool, no doubt.
I read an article about a guy who is experimenting with filament made from recycled plastic to create a fabric that is stitchable, flexible and breathable.

 

[trentr]

It's a great tool, no doubt.
I read an article about a guy who is experimenting with filament made from recycled plastic to create a fabric that is stitchable, flexible and breathable.

That is crazy. Look out fashion world, he comes 3d CRAZY haha. And they have powdered metal correct? So you can basically PRINT metal parts? Brass anyway, if I recall? And wood too I think. I could proly google, buuuut

 

[bjm]

One of the "problems" I have with Thingiverse is no matter what type of project I'm searching for something else will invariably catch my eye

But, one of the items I found most useful was a door handle for our washing machine. A few months ago the handle on our washing machine broke as a load of clothes was being prepared. I started my Google search and brought in the usual suspects (Amazon, HomeDepot, Lowes, local hardware stores, etc.) trying to locate a replacement. Looking for the best price and quickest delivery didn't provide any favorable candidates. I checked Thingiverse and found just what I was looking for. I printed the handle and it was a perfect fit. Problem solved in less than an afternoon and at a price I was more than willing to pay.

 

[BradWorld]

I just want to throw some odds and ends in there to show that there's a whole lot more than shaving brush handles that can be made.

Those Star Wars guns are awesome! I print a lot of non-shave-related stuff as well.

I have a guitar effect pedal company. We did a reissue of vintage pedal. The challenge was that this pedal was round, like a tuna can. It was impossible to find an off-the-shelf enclosure that would achieve what we needed. So I made one myself. I made endless iterations of prototype enclosures in CAD and 3D printed them. Getting the PCB designed to fit in a round enclosure was no easy feat either. After many attempts and various prototyping stages, we are finally in production this year.

Left is the Vintage pedal. Center pair is the first production candidate. Bottom-center is 3D printed. We produced 10 3D printed prototypes. Top-center is custom CNC machined billet aluminum. We made two of these CNC protos for the last NAMM tradeshow before the lockdown. That design was too costly to be viable, but it got us out there in the market. So we refined the design and came up with our production model. The right pair is the production unit. Again the right-bottom is the final 3D printed proto. The top-right unit is the final CNC Aluminum production pedal that is available now. The second photo shows the finished product. I could not have gotten this done without 3D printing. It would have taken a budget well beyond my means to get this done with traditional fabrication. 3D printing is a real game changer for small and startup businesses.

 

[luvmysuper]

I checked Thingiverse and found just what I was looking for. I printed the handle and it was a perfect fit. Problem solved in less than an afternoon and at a price I was more than willing to pay.

Yeah, I mean I've done countless items around the house. Kitchen sink strainer that actually fits my drain, a Keurig mount that attaches to the bottom of a 2 inch piece of PVC to dispense K Cups, perfume and make-up boxes for the wife, a stand for my VR headset and controllers. It's amazing what you can do if you put just a tad bit of thought into it.

The more I make, the more I realize that I can make more!

3D printing is a real game changer for small and startup businesses.

Without a doubt. (those are sweet by the way!)

 

[Nick Obermire]

Thanks for starting this thread. It has pushed me over the line to get one.

Now to decide which to get while spending around 6 or 7 hundred $. I'd like to get something better than a toy but need to keep it under $1K.

Suggestions appreciated.

 

[luvmysuper]

Thanks for starting this thread. It has pushed me over the line to get one.

Now to decide which to get while spending around 6 or 7 hundred $. I'd like to get something better than a toy but need to keep it under $1K.

Suggestions appreciated.

I've only owned an XYZprinting pro 1, which is a good printer but has it's drawbacks as all do I'm sure.
I have heard good things about Creality and Prusa, but can't speak through experience.
Some of the other guys will likely chime in and give their opinion, but once you have some recommendations there's a lot of reading to do to see what level of assembly or modifications you're willing to do.
There are opportunities to start bare bones with add ons later or full scale out of the box, with almost every level between.
Some, like mine, are software limited and won't work with other slicer programs and some give you the freedom to use what you prefer.
Collect opinions and formulate questions and if we can, we'll answer.
Welcome to the rabbit hole!