What an awesome PIF! I'm in! I meet all the criteria and have been eyeing SE shaving for a couple of months now, so thanks for this opportunity.
Nice PIF @Flintstone65!Woohoo!!! Thanks @Flintstone65 for this great opportunity! My prediction is that it WON’T open up a new rabbit hole for me and it WON’T empty my wallet of whatever fun money I have left. Right? Right.
Thank you again!
Awesome write-up and I couldn't be happier that your shave went so well!!! With perhaps only a few exceptions, I think I have most of the Gem models going back to at least 1903/1904, and the Featherweight is really one of my very favorite Gems.Good evening, B&Bers!
Today’s shave was brought to you by the exceeding kindness of @Flintstone65, and features the GEM razor and blades he gave away in this very PIF. As per the participation requirements I’ll also be posting this review in the Miromatic Monday thread, so apologies in advance if you’re seeing double.
My Shaving Background
I first tried DE shaving in November 2019 and the experience changed my grooming life. For years (decades?) I had been stuck on face shaving with an electric razor (usually Braun or Panasonic) and head shaving with a Gillette Mach 3. While I do still use the Mach 3 for my head, the electric has since been discarded and I haven’t missed it for a minute. In recent months I’ve narrowed down my favorite daily gear to my Timeless SS .68 OC, several boar brushes (Semogue and Zenith), a few sharp blades (Astra SP, Feather, Med Prep), and a small assortment of soaps and aftershaves by the likes of Saponificio Varesino, Barrister & Mann, Noble Otter, and Proraso. I do, of course, have other really nice things in each category, but these get the most use.
My Face
My beard is coarse like wire bristles and my skin is a little oily and fairly sensitive. Ingrown hairs occur regularly if I don’t properly follow my growth patterns, so I’ve learned to only shave with and across the growth. I also keep a goatee, so shaves usually quick and easy.
The GEM Razor
It’s smaller than I thought it would be and seemingly well made. The clamping mechanism works perfectly, keeping the blade securely in place with tabs covering the corners for added safety. This particular example is in excellent condition, well above what any of us would call “user grade.” It’s beautiful!
My Shave Prep
I started by soaking my face in a hot shower then immediately applying Proraso Green pre-shave. I let that work its magic while I continued my shower, then washed my face just before stepping out. Mmmmm…menthol.
My Shave
After loading my Zenith B30 boar (still breaking this one in) and building up a nice face lather, I was finally ready for the GEM. I was afraid it was going to be weird experience, as the head angle had me thinking I’d have to ride the cap a lot. I much prefer riding the bar, as I do with all of my DE razors, and to my great surprise and pleasure I found a steep angle works perfectly with the GEM. In fact, it’s got a fairly forgiving range, so most people should be able to transition pretty easily. I used short quick strokes WTG, followed by one XTG pass. Buffing was minimal and the Arko kept everything nice and slick. The entire shave was comfortable and devoid of drama. After a cold water rinse and a pain-free splash of Speick, I was done. No blood or irritation.
My Results
Since I never shave against the growth, I never get a BBS and can always feel stubble when I swipe my hand ATG. That was still true today, but I got an unexpected treat when I checked the mirror: the GEM had held its own with my best razors and blades. It easily shaves as close as my Timeless, Charcoal Goods, and Rocca, and it handily beats my Tech, Red Tip, New LC, and #160. In fact, throughout the shave I found myself wondering if the GEM was actually a baby step closer to using a straight razor. Maybe it’s down to the thicker blade, or possibly my awesome natural talent…who’s to say…but the results don’t lie. This thing shaves close.
My Final Thoughts
I was really excited to try the GEM, and I was half expecting to shrug it off after the first shave if things got weird. I thought it might be too bulky or that the blade wouldn’t be all that sharp. I was wrong. This is a great razor and I’m glad to have it. I now plan to use it for my next 9 shaves to see if the blade holds up, then it’ll join the regular rotation ahead of most of my vintage Gillettes. And, I suppose, maybe, I guess, I can start looking at other SE razors, too. Just a little bit. Nothing too crazy. It’s not like I have a problem or anything.
View attachment 1147191
Awesome write-up and I couldn't be happier that your shave went so well!!! With perhaps only a few exceptions, I think I have most of the Gem models going back to at least 1903/1904, and the Featherweight is really one of my very favorite Gems.
I've heard great things about Blackland razors, and Colonial Generals; but when it comes to GEM razors, I am almost exclusively a vintage guy. I think the GEM that gets the highest marks by most folks, because it truly is a VERY nice shaver, and it has the added benefits of also being physically beautiful, and is TRULY vintage (110+ years old) is the Gem Junior Bar. Here are a few shots I have of it:Are there any decent modern GEM style razors? I saw a Blackland model for $185, I think. What else is out there? Is there a particular vintage that’s thought of as the high-water mark for GEM?
Glad you enjoyed your first shave! While most new users are given the advise of riding the cap(The manual that comes with them even shows that method), shaving steep does work well with them. Because of the different head geometry, some users get in trouble trying to use a "not shallow enough" shallow angle.Good evening, B&Bers!
Today’s shave was brought to you by the exceeding kindness of @Flintstone65, and features the GEM razor and blades he gave away in this very PIF. As per the participation requirements I’ll also be posting this review in the Miromatic Monday thread, so apologies in advance if you’re seeing double.
My Shaving Background
I first tried DE shaving in November 2019 and the experience changed my grooming life. For years (decades?) I had been stuck on face shaving with an electric razor (usually Braun or Panasonic) and head shaving with a Gillette Mach 3. While I do still use the Mach 3 for my head, the electric has since been discarded and I haven’t missed it for a minute. In recent months I’ve narrowed down my favorite daily gear to my Timeless SS .68 OC, several boar brushes (Semogue and Zenith), a few sharp blades (Astra SP, Feather, Med Prep), and a small assortment of soaps and aftershaves by the likes of Saponificio Varesino, Barrister & Mann, Noble Otter, and Proraso. I do, of course, have other really nice things in each category, but these get the most use.
My Face
My beard is coarse like wire bristles and my skin is a little oily and fairly sensitive. Ingrown hairs occur regularly if I don’t properly follow my growth patterns, so I’ve learned to only shave with and across the growth. I also keep a goatee, so shaves usually quick and easy.
The GEM Razor
It’s smaller than I thought it would be and seemingly well made. The clamping mechanism works perfectly, keeping the blade securely in place with tabs covering the corners for added safety. This particular example is in excellent condition, well above what any of us would call “user grade.” It’s beautiful!
My Shave Prep
I started by soaking my face in a hot shower then immediately applying Proraso Green pre-shave. I let that work its magic while I continued my shower, then washed my face just before stepping out. Mmmmm…menthol.
My Shave
After loading my Zenith B30 boar (still breaking this one in) and building up a nice face lather, I was finally ready for the GEM. I was afraid it was going to be weird experience, as the head angle had me thinking I’d have to ride the cap a lot. I much prefer riding the bar, as I do with all of my DE razors, and to my great surprise and pleasure I found a steep angle works perfectly with the GEM. In fact, it’s got a fairly forgiving range, so most people should be able to transition pretty easily. I used short quick strokes WTG, followed by one XTG pass. Buffing was minimal and the Arko kept everything nice and slick. The entire shave was comfortable and devoid of drama. After a cold water rinse and a pain-free splash of Speick, I was done. No blood or irritation.
My Results
Since I never shave against the growth, I never get a BBS and can always feel stubble when I swipe my hand ATG. That was still true today, but I got an unexpected treat when I checked the mirror: the GEM had held its own with my best razors and blades. It easily shaves as close as my Timeless, Charcoal Goods, and Rocca, and it handily beats my Tech, Red Tip, New LC, and #160. In fact, throughout the shave I found myself wondering if the GEM was actually a baby step closer to using a straight razor. Maybe it’s down to the thicker blade, or possibly my awesome natural talent…who’s to say…but the results don’t lie. This thing shaves close.
My Final Thoughts
I was really excited to try the GEM, and I was half expecting to shrug it off after the first shave if things got weird. I thought it might be too bulky or that the blade wouldn’t be all that sharp. I was wrong. This is a great razor and I’m glad to have it. I now plan to use it for my next 9 shaves to see if the blade holds up, then it’ll join the regular rotation ahead of most of my vintage Gillettes. And, I suppose, maybe, I guess, I can start looking at other SE razors, too. Just a little bit. Nothing too crazy. It’s not like I have a problem or anything.
View attachment 1147191
"The Dark Side" makes me think you might be right about his intentions!Well, thanks to the excitement I got from this wonderful PIF, I went on a bit of a buying spree this weekend to start my own SE collection. I picked up an Ever-Ready Shovel Head, a Gem Micromatic Peerless, and a Gem Micromatic Open Comb, all inbound from the big auction site. I’m guessing this is exactly what @Flintstone65 hoped would happen.
Sorry for the late follow-up, folks. I've been having some neck and shoulder issues recently that made it tough to shave OR type. You should know, however, that I did shave 5 days' growth on Tuesday, September 8, and I used two razors to do it. Gem Featherweight on the left side of my face and Timeless SS .68 OC on the right. Two passes, WTG and XTG, and I couldn't tell the difference between sides when I was done. It was really pretty amazing.
The Featherweight was positively Velcro-like loud but still very comfortable. The Timeless may as well have been a mouse whisper by comparison. Both easily removed the growth, with the Gem definitely giving the impression of easily cutting while the Timeless felt like it was simply wiping the whiskers away. Two completely different beasts, and both yawned at the challenge. I'm not surprised by the Timeless...I already knew how awesome it is...but the Gem really bent my brain. I can see why some people have made the switch to this platform. For now I'm just glad I have both!
Do any of you have similar comparisons, or are you up to trying some soon and reporting back?
I've heard great things about Blackland razors, and Colonial Generals; but when it comes to GEM razors, I am almost exclusively a vintage guy. I think the GEM that gets the highest marks by most folks, because it truly is a VERY nice shaver, and it has the added benefits of also being physically beautiful, and is TRULY vintage (110+ years old) is the Gem Junior Bar. Here are a few shots I have of it:
The "bar" swings up and the blade sits in with the blade stops keeping it from sliding out the front, the back clip folds down to put pressure on the blade to lock it in place....plus the swing bar comes down and gives it just an extra bit of stability (especially keeping it from moving side-to-side). The Patents were 1900 and 1901, and the razor itself was produced around 1907 (up until around 1911). GEM started producing non-wedge, sort-of disposable, mostly disposable (rib-blades) around the time this razor came out, and it easily takes a modern GEM blade (the ones I sent you) and delivers very comfortable shaves. As a "lather catcher", the lather filters under the blade, through the lattice works and collects in the "scoop" shape, so you aren't continually having to rinse your razor.
Another benefit is that you can use a thread screw in this GEM and many others, which will allow you to use a modern handle. This is a picture I have handy with my 1904 GEM a precursor to the, it is sporting a DE handle (my Stork Tradere/Aristocrat knockoff):
And another shot of the Gem Junior Bar (with it's original handle), and a picture of a Gem Junior (earlier model without the bar) with a handle made for me by a very generous B&B member....it is my favorite handle with both the Gem Junior Bar and Gem Junior.
I have some photos with the case that came with it, but can't post them at the moment. I will say that this razor has garnished such a good reputation that it has gone up in price over the last few years. Much cheaper than the modern day Gem razors we were discussing, but no nearly in the territory of say the later model Gems. And I always want to cry when I hear about how the early collectors would be gifted these at a thrift or antique store when they were buying a $5 Super Speeds since the proprietor really didn't know what to do with this weird looking razor.