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The case for straight razors. History

A straight razor is a razor with a blade that can fold into its handle. They are also called open razors and cut-throat razors.

Although straight razors were once the principal method of manual shaving, they have been largely overshadowed by the safety razor, incorporating a disposable blade. Electric razors of various types have also been an available alternative especially since the 1950s. Despite that, straight razors still hold a market share, and forums and outlets provide products, directions, and advice to straight razor users. Straight razor manufacturers still exist in Europe, Asia (especially Japan), and the United States. Antique straight razors are also actively traded.

Straight razors require considerable skill to hone and strop, and require more care during shaving. These methods were once a major portion of the curriculum in barber colleges.

History

Razor made of bronze from the first Iron Age. The handle is fixed and the razor has two cutting edges. Decorative ridges can also be seen following the direction of the handle into the blade. The pointed tip of the blade indicates additional uses as a knife or a weapon. The three circular holes on the handle and the blade body indicate the possibility they could be used for fasteners in a spear head as well. It is on exhibit at the Ardennes Museum in France.Various forms of razors were used throughout history, which are different in appearance but similar in use to modern straight razors. In prehistoric times clam shells, shark's teeth, and flint were sharpened and used to shave with. Drawings of such blades were found in prehistoric caves. Some tribes still use blades made of flint to this day. Excavations in Egypt have unearthed solid gold and copper razors in tombs dating back to the 4th millennium BCE. The Roman historian Livy reported that the razor was introduced in ancient Rome in the 6th century BCE. by legendary king Lucius Tarquinius Priscus. Priscus was ahead of his time because razors did not come to general use until a century later.

The first modern straight razor complete with decorated handles and hollow ground blades was constructed in Sheffield, in England, the center of the cutlery industry, in the 18th and 19th centuries. Benjamin Huntsman produced the first superior hard steel grade, through a special crucible process, suitable for use as blade material in 1740. Huntsman's process was adopted by the French sometime later; albeit reluctantly at first due to nationalist sentiments. The English manufacturers were even more reluctant than the French to adopt the process and only did so after they saw its success in France. Sheffield steel, a highly polished steel, also known as Sheffield silver steel' and famous for its deep gloss finish, is considered a superior quality steel and is still used to this day in France by such manufacturers as Thiers Issard.

In the 18th and 19th centuries the wealthy had servants to shave them or could frequent barbershops. Daily shaving was not a widespread practice in the 19th century so some people never shaved. The custom of shaving every day among American men is a 20th century innovation. In the 19th century, cutlers in Sheffield, England and Solingen, Germany produced a variety of razors.

Straight razors were the most common form of shaving before the 20th century and remained that common in many countries until the 1950s. Barbers were specially trained to give customers a thorough and quick shave, and a collection of straight razors ready for use was a common sight in most barbershops. Barbers still have them, but they use them less often.

Straight razors eventually fell out of fashion. Their first challenger was manufactured by King C. Gillette: a double-edged safety razor with replaceable blades. Gillette's idea was the use of the "loss leader" concept, in which the razors were sold at a loss, but the replacement blades earned a high margin and provided continuous sales. They provided a less effective shave, yet were immensely successful due to advertising campaigns and slogans denigrating the straight razor's effectiveness and questioning its safety.

These new safety razors did not require any serious tutelage to use. The blades were extremely hard to sharpen, and were meant to be thrown away after one use, and rusted quickly if not discarded. They also required a smaller initial investment, though they cost more over time. Despite its long-term advantages, the straight razor lost significant market share. And as shaving became less intimidating and men began to shave themselves more, the demand for barbers providing straight razor shaves decreased.

Around 1960, stainless steel blades which could be used more than once became available, reducing the cost of safety-razor shaving. The first such blades were made by the Wilkinson firm, famous maker of ceremonial swords, in Sheffield. Soon Gillette, Schick, and other manufacturers were making stainless-steel blades.
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These were followed by multiple-blade cartridges and disposable razors. For each type of replaceable blade, there is generally a disposable razor.

In the 1930s, electric razors became available. These can rival the cost of a good straight razor, although the whole straight-razor shaving kit can exceed the cost of even an expensive electric razor by many many times. In fact.​
 
is still used to this day in France by such manufacturers as Thiers Issard.
Yeah... I often doubt it's actual Sheffield silver that they use on the "Loup & Bélier", does not feel like Sheffield Silver anyway.
More like a commercial argument.

The English manufacturers were even more reluctant than the French to adopt the process and only did so after they saw its success in France.
Can I have your sources and/or some dates relative to that ?
It's quite famous over here that France was notably very late in the market compared to the British, what with Napoleon banning british cuttlery to force France to develop it and still smuggle his blades from England.

The custom of shaving every day among American men is a 20th century innovation.
I seriously doubt it. Sure it was not widespread among the common folk, but rich people would shave everyday if they could. You can find weekly sets as early as late 18th century, with razors etched with a day of the week on each blade.

In the 19th century, cutlers in Sheffield, England and Solingen, Germany produced a variety of razors.
That's a bit reductive...
Two big spots in France in the 19th century : Haute Marne (Nogent, Langres, Sens), and Thiers. The later survived better in the 20th century with some firms such as Thiers Issard still producing.
But you could also include famously Sweden in the lot.
And AFAIK, Solingen really boomed later, from 1870 and after.

Their first challenger was manufactured by King C. Gillette:
first as historical first, or first to actually put a dent in the popularity ?
Because all aspects leading the the Gilette have a long historical precedence.

The first razors with removable/interchangeable blade predate 1820. Still straight razors, framebacks obviously and still...
Safety razors ? First attested one would be Perret's "rasoir sabot" circa 1790.
Single Edge razors have been around for quite a time before

The hegemony of the single blade foldable straight razor as we know it has been challenged numerous times.
were immensely successful due to advertising campaigns and slogans denigrating the straight razor's effectiveness and questioning its safety.
Also, as Perret had already foretold in 1790, far easier to use when you are a war veteran, whether because you only have one functioning hand or "shell shock" (PTSD). The two world wars have, or so I've heard, been far better sellers of safety razors than any commercial argument.


All in all not an uninteresting text, but I fear it is full of shortcuts and approximation that might be detrimental to its purpose, if that purpose is to teach the basics around.
 
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I'm absolutely fascinated by straight razor history. I wish that I could watch the Egyptians or Romans prepare their razors. I'm particularly fascinated by the disc shaped razors that were used around the time of the Crusades. I've read that they were worn as pendants. I can imagine the early form of paste made from fine sand and oil. Who knows what secrets have been lost to time, but also their modern equivalents to our shaving supplies!
 
Straight razors eventually fell out of fashion. Their first challenger was manufactured by King C. Gillette: a double-edged safety razor with replaceable blades. Gillette's idea was the use of the "loss leader" concept, in which the razors were sold at a loss, but the replacement blades earned a high margin and provided continuous sales. They provided a less effective shave, yet were immensely successful due to advertising campaigns and slogans denigrating the straight razor's effectiveness and questioning its safety.

I will also take issue with this statement generally. I don't think king c Gillettes first razor/blade combo was nearly as good as the tech with a SS blade. I do think it was probably better than many straight razors maintained on cheap worn out barber hones by home shavers who didn't have the internet as a resource available to improve their honing technique. On top of it, shaving at the time was a chore to 99.9% of society. Nothing more and nothing less. I love my straights, and I use a SR almost exclusively. But I'm also a realist and I don't believe for a minute that most SRs in men's bathrooms in the 1920s could shave on par with or better than a DE safety razor of the same Era.
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
I will also take issue with this statement generally. I don't think king c Gillettes first razor/blade combo was nearly as good as the tech with a SS blade. I do think it was probably better than many straight razors maintained on cheap worn out barber hones by home shavers who didn't have the internet as a resource available to improve their honing technique. On top of it, shaving at the time was a chore to 99.9% of society. Nothing more and nothing less. I love my straights, and I use a SR almost exclusively. But I'm also a realist and I don't believe for a minute that most SRs in men's bathrooms in the 1920s could shave on par with or better than a DE safety razor of the same Era.

I agree.
 
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