What's new

THE BRITISH GILLETTE ARISTOCRAT VS ROCKWELL 6S

I’ve purchased and sold quite a few double-edge razors. For me, two razors top the list: the British Aristocrat and Rockwell 6S - and both have attracted vocal fans. Not everybody has had a chance to own both razors…so I thought a head-to-head match would be fun and interesting.

Aristocrat.jpg
6S.jpg



Appearance
The British Aristocrat is thought to be one of the most beautiful razors ever made. Gillette debuted the barber pole design in 1918 with the Bulldog Set. In 1934, they recycled the design for their gold tone “twist-to-open” Aristocrat - probably the first one-piece razor, and definitely one of the most gorgeous razors ever. In Great Britain, the barber pole design was again used for Aristocrat razors - which was (mostly) plated in rhodium - a finish that seems to last forever. Today, the basic design is being used by several current razor companies - including ATT, Timeless, Fendrihan, Mongoose and Razorock, though Merkur made changes to increase the 38’s ornateness. The popularity of the “barber pole” design is indisputable.

The Rockwell 6S has its own appeal, with its utilitarian simplicity. Its main advance came with the use of reversible plates, from 1 (mild) to 6 (aggressive). (Other razors have used “flippable” plates, but the 6S allows increased adjustability.) The 6S is “handsome,” but I wouldn’t necessarily keep it in a display case.

On this criterion, I’d have to give the edge to the British Aristocrat.


Value
A vintage British Aristocrat isn’t cheap, and prices on auction or in shaving forums vary a bit. Depending on the condition, you’ll spend anywhere around $125 for a decent shaver to $250 or more for a razor in very good condition and the original metal case. (For half the price, you can purchase an Aristocrat Junior; the performance is nearly identical, and the razor will last you a lifetime.)

New, the Rockwell 6S goes for $100 retail, but you can purchase the 6C (chrome zinc alloy) for $50. The 6S and 6C are both adjustable, and pretty good values. Some prefer the shinier 6C.

Advantage: Rockwell.


Weight
My 1949 British Aristocrat weighs 84 grams - not the lightest Gillette razor. But it has modest heft and excellent balance. For me, the weight is perfect.

The Rockwell 6S is 124 grams (about a third heavier than the British Aristocrat), but it still has good balance. The additional weight makes shaving a little easier without adding too much pressure. The razor is pretty substantial.

The weight of both razors is very good - but I think balance is more important than weight.


Workmanship
In Britain, Gillette released a series of Aristocrat razors from 1939 for over about ten years - and has won over the shaving community with their good looks, and smoothness. The TTO mechanism opens and closes soundlessly and evenly. (Some TTO razors sound like a manual garage door.)


Gumming Up
Some vintage Gillette razors are outstanding shavers (like, say, The New), but may end up with with accumulated soap “scum.” You won’t see this too much with the British Aristocrat, primarily because of the amazing TTO design, which makes clean-up so much easier.

Obviously, the Rockwell 6S doesn’t have a TTO mechanism. If your shaving soap is thick, you’ll probably need to clean things out after every shave or so. It’s hard to tell if a sluggish shave results from old blades or the soapy mess in your razor.

A TTO mechanism makes maintenance considerably easier - an advantage for the Aristocrat.


General Use
The British Aristocrat’s TTO mechanism is fast and easier to use; all in all, it’s under ten seconds to switch out a blade. Even the most aggressive soap scum will disappear after a rinse.

The 6S is a three-part razor, so it takes about twenty seconds to load a new blade, and it’s extra time for washing out residual soap.

Chances are, if you’re using a DE razor, you know that good prep takes time. I really like the convenience of TTC razors, but the time difference between the Aristocrat and 6S aren’t an issue for me.


Shaving
The British Aristocrat balances comfort and aggressiveness as well as any razor - a nice, close shave, and no nicks or cuts. Because it’s relatively light, it glides across your face easily. It’s easy to shave without pressure.

The Rockwell 6S has six different plates to vary aggressiveness, but plate #2 probably comes closest to the British Aristocrat - so I’ve chosen that plate for this shaving comparison. I guess it’s normal to add pressure while shaving, but pressure can lead to irritation. I still have to make a conscious effort to avoid pressure with the 6S.

From the standpoint of shaving, the two razors are about equal. If I want a fast, smooth shave, I’ll pick the Aristocrat; if I need an extra-close shave, I’ll use plate 4, 5, or 6 on the 6S.


Nicks and Cuts
I hate nicks and cuts. With some razors, you have to keep a styptic pencil ready all the time. Even a Gillette flare - which is notoriously mild - can deliver weepers if you don’t shave carefully. But some designs are more cut-resistant than others.

The British Aristocrat is a fairly mild razor, and you’re not going to get many nicks or cuts. Or at least, I haven’t had any.

The 6S is also a pretty smooth shaver, but can leave nicks unless you shave lightly. That does double with plates 4 - 6.

The relative smoothness of both razors is pretty close, but the potential aggressiveness of the 6S is moderated by shaving lightly and using the right plates.


Longevity
The British Aristocrat razors I’ve tried have been in very good condition. Many Aristocrat owners keep their razors are in good repair, and a few forum members even show them off in display cases. From what I’ve read online, this razor seems to last a long time. Occasionally, there might be an issue with the blade door, but that’s pretty minor.

The Rockwell 6S wins high marks for longevity, thanks to the stainless steel design. Mechanically, it’s a very simple razor - no moving parts, and it’s solid metal.

Both razors will last a long time, but the 6S can last centuries.


THE VERDICT
Versatility is important to me. Depending on that blade I’m using (or the kind of shave I want), the Rockwell 6S delivers. Even if I want to experiment a bit with different blades, soaps or preps, the 6S provides lots of options. It’s a razor with a bunch of different base plates, and you get lots of options. With the British Aristocrat, there’s only one plate - but generations of shavers are just fine with one plate.

When it comes down to the nitty-gritty of shaving, it’s the unglamorous task of cutting whiskers. The British Aristocrat does the same basic job as the Rockwell 6S; one veteran forum member opined that an experienced shaver can get a good shave with any decent razor.

I do prefer the heft of the 6S, and I like the idea of using different plates, depending on the shave I want. But the relative lightness and maneuverability of the Aristocrat are real advantages.

If I were on a desert island, I’d prefer the 6S; you could spend years playing around with the combinations of plate, blade, soap, and setup. But the ease of the TTO makes the British Aristocrat a somewhat more pleasurable shaving experience.

Since I’m not on a desert island, I’ll keep both.
 
It would help if you could tell us which generation of British Aristocrat you have, since they have different head geometry and shave differently.
From the photo I can only narrow down to 3rd or 4th.
 
R

romsitsa

I'd say 3rd gen, the middle of the plate is thick and the guard bar is also thicker than on stamped Rocket type plates.

Adam
 
Top Bottom