The Micah Method for waxing a Meerschaum pipe:
Thanks to @Hirsute for this great way of getting a messy job done. Post in context here:
www.badgerandblade.com
Reprint:
I do wax my meers, but only when they need it. Generally, it's when the meer starts feeling a little rough instead of glass smooth. Ironically, a freshly waxed pipe can actually capture and set fingerprints, because the surface can be a little tacky especially if you use only beeswax.
Here's my method for waxing:
I use a low oven, like 200 degrees. I take some aluminum foil, make a cone, and place the pipe so the bowl goes over the cone and balances. You want the pipe to not be in contact with anything (except the inside of the chamber). With the stem removed, put the pipe on a baking sheet and pop it in the oven for about 30-40 minutes. You can do several pipes on a tray for a session.
You'll also want to get your wax mixture up to temp. I put 1 oz of cosmetic grade beeswax in a mason jar with about 1/2 to 1 teaspoon of jojoba oil. The theory is that in the old times, makers used spermaceti from sperm whales with wax to create their blends, and that jojoba kind of does the same thing. Essentially is makes the wax mixture a little harder, more durable, and less tacky when it's on the pipe. But I digress. Pop the jar with the wax mixture in the oven at the same time and let it get up to temp.
After 30-40 minutes, remove the baking sheet and the jar with the wax mixture from the oven. using a clean brush (I use disposable small brushes from Harbor Freight), paint the outside of the pipe with a heavy coat of the wax mixture. be careful not to get wax into the chamber or into the mortise, or on the end of the stummel facing the stem. Be careful handling the pipe. It's hot, and you want to handle it as little as possible since it's very easy to pick up fingerprints at this point (I try to not handle it, or handle only with a clean dish cloth). Once your pipes are coated in the mixture, pop the sheet pan back in the oven for another 20-30 minutes. This will melt off the excess wax. Then pull them out and let them cool completely. Take a soft clean cloth and buff the pipe once completely cool. Viola.
Other methods include heating the pipe with a blow dryer and the rubbing it with wax, or putting corks in the chamber and mortise and dunking in molten wax. I like the oven method because the wax will penetrate deeply and provide longer lasting protection. Be aware that your pipe may darken or lighten when you rewax it. Just kind of depends on how much tar is in the pipe when you do it. If the color on the pipe is mostly surface color, it will likely get absorbed and lighten after you wax it. If the pipe is heavily smoked and full of tar, you'll likely draw some of this to the surface and it will darken.
Thanks to @Hirsute for this great way of getting a messy job done. Post in context here:
2021 March Meerschaum Madness
It arrived a day early! Currently loaded up with MB Vanilla Roll Cake. Side note, showed the wife when it arrived, first words from her was "Well, that's going to color up really nicely...". I guess she's been paying attention to my pipe talk all these years, after all. lol Nice lookin...
www.badgerandblade.com
Reprint:
I do wax my meers, but only when they need it. Generally, it's when the meer starts feeling a little rough instead of glass smooth. Ironically, a freshly waxed pipe can actually capture and set fingerprints, because the surface can be a little tacky especially if you use only beeswax.
Here's my method for waxing:
I use a low oven, like 200 degrees. I take some aluminum foil, make a cone, and place the pipe so the bowl goes over the cone and balances. You want the pipe to not be in contact with anything (except the inside of the chamber). With the stem removed, put the pipe on a baking sheet and pop it in the oven for about 30-40 minutes. You can do several pipes on a tray for a session.
You'll also want to get your wax mixture up to temp. I put 1 oz of cosmetic grade beeswax in a mason jar with about 1/2 to 1 teaspoon of jojoba oil. The theory is that in the old times, makers used spermaceti from sperm whales with wax to create their blends, and that jojoba kind of does the same thing. Essentially is makes the wax mixture a little harder, more durable, and less tacky when it's on the pipe. But I digress. Pop the jar with the wax mixture in the oven at the same time and let it get up to temp.
After 30-40 minutes, remove the baking sheet and the jar with the wax mixture from the oven. using a clean brush (I use disposable small brushes from Harbor Freight), paint the outside of the pipe with a heavy coat of the wax mixture. be careful not to get wax into the chamber or into the mortise, or on the end of the stummel facing the stem. Be careful handling the pipe. It's hot, and you want to handle it as little as possible since it's very easy to pick up fingerprints at this point (I try to not handle it, or handle only with a clean dish cloth). Once your pipes are coated in the mixture, pop the sheet pan back in the oven for another 20-30 minutes. This will melt off the excess wax. Then pull them out and let them cool completely. Take a soft clean cloth and buff the pipe once completely cool. Viola.
Other methods include heating the pipe with a blow dryer and the rubbing it with wax, or putting corks in the chamber and mortise and dunking in molten wax. I like the oven method because the wax will penetrate deeply and provide longer lasting protection. Be aware that your pipe may darken or lighten when you rewax it. Just kind of depends on how much tar is in the pipe when you do it. If the color on the pipe is mostly surface color, it will likely get absorbed and lighten after you wax it. If the pipe is heavily smoked and full of tar, you'll likely draw some of this to the surface and it will darken.
