The Basement

[Tathlum]

Need a place to store info on what works with what razor. My collection of razors is around 40 and I'm struggling to remember what worked good for each razor. Main focus will be shallow or steep angle.
I shave every other day. Would like to shave every day but haven't found a daily driver. I own 7 tech's and 3 tech clones, you would think one of them would serve as a dd. Pretty sure the problem is me not the razor.
Little history. 1986 Uncle Sam issues me a 4 pack of blue Gillette twin blade razors and a small can of foamy. I used variations of those disposables till 2014. Made the move to de safety razor. I got buy with a Feather popular and shark super stainless blades. Was shaving about once a week. Still used foamy cause I couldn't figure out the soap and brush. Used a steep angle. Blade life one shave.
Fall 2019 enter Rockwell 6c. Steep angle, Gillette platinum blades, blade life one shave, shaving every 3rd day, figured out how to use soap and brush. Shaves much improved! Should have stopped there.
Discovered B&B in the spring of 2020. Didn't really post much till January of this year. Had to get to fifty to post on BST.

What I remember so far:
Rockwell 6c steep works good, haven't tried shallow.

RazoRock GC68-P steep not good, shallow works good, .

RazoRock GC84-P steep not good, haven't tried shallow.

RazoRock Old Type steep OK, shallow good.

RazoRock Mamba 70 steep no good, shallow good, .

Gillette Tech Pre War haven't tried steep, shallow not good.

Gillette Tech FB steep good, haven't tried shallow.

Gillette Tech Early Canadian up next.

 

[thombrogan]

Thank you for starting a journal and sharing how you’re able to get the best results from your collection. I’m looking forward to reading your further discoveries and wondering if any of the above listed will change over time.

 

[Tathlum]

Thanks @thombrogan, I'm also curious as what will change over time. I guess I can't make edits to a post? Was hoping to make edits to the original post as I use different razors.

 

[thombrogan]

I think editing capabilities end for us after about 30 minutes. If you check out the journal of @GBerry , he keeps a running tab of his thoughts regarding blade/razor combinations. If recollection serves, he usually uses a neutral angle and an extremely light touch.

 

[Tathlum]

9/6/22
Soap- Van Der Hagen deluxe
Brush- 22 mm Horse Hair
Razor- Gillette Tech Early Canadian
Blade- Gillette Platinum (1)
Aftershave- Aqua Velva
1st go round with this razor. Steep no irritation. BBS at 5:30 am, shadow and stubble by 10:00 am.
Soap and brush both new. Soap was surprisingly slick. Had to keep wiping my fingers on a towel for a better grip on razor. Brush was soft, worked best as a painter. I hear the tech's work best with a feather or kia blade. Will try that in the future.

 

[GBerry]

I think editing capabilities end for us after about 30 minutes. If you check out the journal of @GBerry , he keeps a running tab of his thoughts regarding blade/razor combinations. If recollection serves, he usually uses a neutral angle and an extremely light touch.

Thom is correct about this with a few exceptions:

A few very light weight razors may require additional pressure. But, adding pressure with most razors usually leads to irritation.

Most mild razors need a really sharp blade to allow the shaver to do the shave with a minimum number of strokes/passes. Too many passes lead to irritation.

Lather and prep is very important.

Early in my quest for the best shave, I was chasing BBS. I don’t chase BBS anymore.

Some very efficient/ aggressive razors need either a shallow angle (ride the cap) or a steep angle (ride the guard) to accomplish the shave. Otherwise for mild to medium efficient razors, shave neutral is good. YMMV.

My journals are not perfect but they do help.

Hope this helps.

 

[GBerry]

If we dissect the shaves you are doing, if you switch to a tallow based soap and build a protective lather, you might be able shave closer to neutral without irritation and improve the efficiency of the tech. Another course is to use a more efficient razor like an EJ 3ONE6 or the REX Envoy.

Shave with the same combo for 30 days to really get to know the combo. MAP your face to see what is WTG, ATG and XTG.

 

[Tathlum]

Thom is correct about this with a few exceptions:

A few very light weight razors may require additional pressure. But, adding pressure with most razors usually leads to irritation.

Most mild razors need a really sharp blade to allow the shaver to do the shave with a minimum number of strokes/passes. Too many passes lead to irritation.

Lather and prep is very important.

Early in my quest for the best shave, I was chasing BBS. I don’t chase BBS anymore.

Some very efficient/ aggressive razors need either a shallow angle (ride the cap) or a steep angle (ride the guard) to accomplish the shave. Otherwise for mild to medium efficient razors, shave neutral is good. YMMV.

My journals are not perfect but they do help.

Hope this helps.

Sorry for the late response, I'm not getting notifications for this thread.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm assuming shave neutral is when the cap, blade and bar are all in contact with the skin?

 

[Tathlum]

If we dissect the shaves you are doing, if you switch to a tallow based soap and build a protective lather, you might be able shave closer to neutral without irritation and improve the efficiency of the tech. Another course is to use a more efficient razor like an EJ 3ONE6 or the REX Envoy.

Shave with the same combo for 30 days to really get to know the combo. MAP your face to see what is WTG, ATG and XTG.

OK so I'll use the same razor for the next 30 days. Shave neutral. I have tallow based soaps I'll go with Mitchell's wool fat. Will go with the feather blades
Will do 3 passes with, across and against. For prep I let the puck bloom then use the soapy water from that. For a handle I'll try to go with a medium weight, somewhere around 50g.

 

[GBerry]

Take your time and use a very light touch. Mitchell's wool fat is good stuff at least for me.

 

[GBerry]

Sorry for the late response, I'm not getting notifications for this thread.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm assuming shave neutral is when the cap, blade and bar are all in contact with the skin?

That is correct. Shave neutral makes sense for razors with a negative, zero and slightly positive exposure. I would guess that techs are slightly positive exposure. With a very aggressive razor, it may not be possible to do shave neutral. At least, I can not do it.

 

[Tathlum]

Soap- Mitchell's Wool Fat
Brush- Zenith 80R
Razor- Gillette Tech Canadian
Blade- Feather (1)
Aftershave- Aqua Velva
Save neutral - shave #1
Was having a little trouble being consistent with the new angle. Got to pick the same point of reference every time. Next shave will start steep and keep raising the handle till neutral is found.
One days growth, 3 passes, and some touch ups (buffing), which I need to stop doing. Some mild irritation after shave, 2 hrs later is gone. Slight shadow around chin but smooth.
All in all nice BBS with mild irritation. Need to work on angle consistency.

 

[GBerry]

As you work forward, if you change 1 item and then shave that way for a while, then you can compare the shaves after the change to the shaves prior to the change and determine if the change is good or not.

I have a 1940's Fat Handle Tech with the triangular lather slots made in the US. I can get a BBS with no irritation but 7 hours later I feel like I need another shave. So, I know the feeling as you reported in post #5. When I first started with it, it was a total disaster.

I think you are doing better than I was.

 

[Tathlum]

As you work forward, if you change 1 item and then shave that way for a while, then you can compare the shaves after the change to the shaves prior to the change and determine if the change is good or not.

I have a 1940's Fat Handle Tech with the triangular lather slots made in the US. I can get a BBS with no irritation but 7 hours later I feel like I need another shave. So, I know the feeling as you reported in post #5. When I first started with it, it was a total disaster.

I think you are doing better than I was.

Won't change anything for awhile except the aftershave as I've almost killed that one.
Yes it is a little frustrating when a few hours later you feel like you need to shave again. I do like this shave neutral as it seems like it should be how it is done.

 

[Tathlum]

Shave#2
Same set up. Was able find correct angle a little easier. No buffing! Over all bbs with less irritation.

 

[GBerry]

Won't change anything for awhile except the aftershave as I've almost killed that one.
Yes it is a little frustrating when a few hours later you feel like you need to shave again. I do like this shave neutral as it seems like it should be how it is done.

I’m hoping you can make one of your techs a daily driver.

 

[Tathlum]

shave #2 recap
Noticed significant increase in time before stubble and shadow appeared, around the 8hr mark.

shave #3
Skipped a day so working with 2 day growth. Same set up. Blade seems to be doing really well, first time for me that a blade has gotten better with use. Really smooth shave with very little irritation.

 

[Tathlum]

shave #3 recap
the lasting smoothness of this shave was awesome, no shadow or stubble till around 5:30 as I left work. 12 hrs so very nice.

shave #4
Smooth with light irritation. Though smooth I noticed dark spots around chin so not as close as shave #3. Killed the bottle of Aqua Velva aftershave. So there will be a change in post shave only. Shave was good but not as good as #3. Shawdow and stubble noticed at 2nd break (2:00 pm).

Shave #5
Either the blade is slowing down or I'm just getting to comfortable with set up and getting careless. Shave is smooth, but with irritation in center of neck. Me going to fast on 3rd pass. Will try to go slower next shave.

 

[GBerry]

The Feather Hi-Stainless blade is more of a 2 shaves and done for me in razors other than the AS-D2. It may last a little longer in the AS-D2.

I always thought the Feather Hi-Stainless felt harsh in my Fat Handle Tech.

Try a new blade.

 

[Tathlum]

shave #6
changed blade to a Gillette silver blue. New aftershave is Stetson cooling moisture. Smooth 3 pass shave. DFS!