Thats it!

[Frank Shaves]

I learned how to turn my forearm/wrist (versus "rotating a knob") when stropping by watching @Doc226's stropping video. Works well for my GD razors. I am still trying to figure out how to use this technique with a thumb notch (like a Dovo Bismarck).

I also bought my first jnat and killed my first edges on a beer bottle. See Just Another Newcomer With Their First Jnat - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/just-another-newcomer-with-their-first-jnat.597255/post-10962323. I like jnats and knowing that the edge is yours is a nice feeling!

 

[Slash McCoy]

This evening I returned to the 0.5 for the second time (this time from the 0.25), and I definitely prefer the 0.5 over the 0.25. This weekend I am going to try finishing on my hard black Ark and Vermont green slate after using the 0.5 each time - just to see what that is all about. And then when I the courage, I will have to try the 0.1. In general, crazy sharp has never been my thing.

The full progression of .5u, .25u, and .1u is a real game changer. Don't fear the sharpness! Just flatten your shave angle some more and stretch the skin tighter and you will be thrilled by the shave. Getting past the .25u hump takes you into a whole new shave-iverse.

 

[Frank Shaves]

I finally did the whole diamond paste progression from 0.5 to 0.25 to 0.1 micron, and the result was a sharp and smooth shave. I compared it to a fresh Feather Professional blade in my Feather AC, and the 0.1 did well.

I am still working on my honing with the goal of reaching sharp and smooth on both a synthetic and natural, definitely gaining more control and confidence.

And I have my first piece of Swedish steel inbound - a low-cost not shave-ready Erik Anton Berg on the Bay with what looks like very little wear but perhaps a little oxidation. I am curious about how much work will be required to get this baby into better shape.

 

[Slash McCoy]

I finally did the whole diamond paste progression from 0.5 to 0.25 to 0.1 micron, and the result was a sharp and smooth shave. I compared it to a fresh Feather Professional blade in my Feather AC, and the 0.1 did well.

I am still working on my honing with the goal of reaching sharp and smooth on both a synthetic and natural, definitely gaining more control and confidence.

And I have my first piece of Swedish steel inbound - a low-cost not shave-ready Erik Anton Berg on the Bay with what looks like very little wear but perhaps a little oxidation. I am curious about how much work will be required to get this baby into better shape.

Swedish steel is hard, yeah. But TBH on the diamond you will not notice any difference at all. On AlOx lapping film you will notice a little difference. On most synthetics and pretty much all naturals, it jsut takes longer to hone, is all. And softer rocks will wear out and dish on you. Thinking Bear Moo, King, others like that. Even Naniwa Superstones dish noticeably quicker with very hard steels like the Swedish razors. But you can still gitter done.

You won't find any stones that make a sharper edge than .1u diamond set into lapped balsa. It simply isn't possible. Smoother? Yeah sometimes/sorta, YMMV but remember, to some people, smooth means dull. I find a good .1u balsa edge every bit as smooth as a coticule or Jnat edge. Just sayin. But like I said, YMMV because this gets deeply into the subjective.

Your natural and synthetic stone edges and lapping film edges will all be the same after going all three stages of pasted balsa. Assuming they were sharp enough to jump directly to the .5u of course.

 

[Frank Shaves]

Can anyone comment on differences between HHT on straight razor versus DE blade?

To make a long story short, the only hair that I have access to for HHT is my wife's very fine hair. And I am only able to achieve HHT with straight by flicking the hair or razor. So I tried performing HHT with my wife's hair on a fresh Personna Platinum DE blade, and I get the same results - only passes HHT by flicking DE blade or hair. I have read that HHT can be difficult with very fine hair. I am trying to avoid asking my friends and neighbors for hair.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Can anyone comment on differences between HHT on straight razor versus DE blade?

To make a long story short, the only hair that I have access to for HHT is my wife's very fine hair. And I am only able to achieve HHT with straight by flicking the hair or razor. So I tried performing HHT with my wife's hair on a fresh Personna Platinum DE blade, and I get the same results - only passes HHT by flicking DE blade or hair. I have read that HHT can be difficult with very fine hair. I am trying to avoid asking my friends and neighbors for hair.

Go to any beauty supply shop and buy a pack of hair. Yeah, it's a thing. For about $20 you get about 10k years supply of HHT hair. Or just use the treetop test.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Oh, and you are comparing two different types of edges. The DE blade has a compound bevel. Two or even three separate faces on each side. They are also coated. And the thinness of the blade is another wild card. Mostly, a DE blade will not perform in the HHT test as well as an extremely sharp straight razor edge, even though their raw whisker cutting ability might be the same.

 

[Frank Shaves]

I feel better knowing about the DE blade structure. Thanks for that!

 

[trentr]

I seem to have a better idea of my sharpness by the Tree Top method. At times my forearms definitely give that away LOL. Just never really got the hang of HHT

 

[Frank Shaves]

I seem to have a better idea of my sharpness by the Tree Top method.

So far, the same for me. But I still want to become proficient at HHT.