Picked up said knot for handle i have. Total length is listed as 65mm. I was thinking of setting to depth of 18mm giving loft of 47mm. Anyone have any experience with this knot/max depth? Trying to imitate performance of Duke3/Commodore 3 for face lathering exclusively. Thanks.
TGN 2band Super Finest Depth
- Thread starter Jayboz
- Start date
Probably not the advice you wanted but I like a lofty brush so I would set it as high as possible to end up with a loft of about 55 mm to 56 mm.
Seriously though, drill as deep as you think you would like it and set it with silicon so you can easily pull it back out and experiment with different lofts until you find what you really prefer from trying different settings.
Seriously though, drill as deep as you think you would like it and set it with silicon so you can easily pull it back out and experiment with different lofts until you find what you really prefer from trying different settings.
Excellent advice.
- Thread starter
- #4
Great, thanks. Ill drill to 20mm and work my way out if needed. A pea sized bit of silicon sufficent to ‘temporarily’ hold? Any method to remove or just pull knot straight out.
I like a high loft of about 55mm as well.
If the knot does not fit tight into the hole you will get more splay so set it a little deeper if the hole is a little loose.
If the knot does not fit tight into the hole you will get more splay so set it a little deeper if the hole is a little loose.
Yes for testing a little dab L do. If you want to raise it you can use coins, stainless washers or if you don't want extra weight you can get plastic washers. Or just cut a bunch of discs from something like a butter tub. When you find the final height you can epoxy if your worried about it eventually coming out. Or just use a more thorough covering of silicone. Be careful to not use so much that it squeezes out though. If you use something to build up under the knot I like something a little smaller so I can get glue all the way around it on the sides and in between the layers.
I’ve used quite a few TGN two band finest knots and IME they lose some backbone after a bit of use, especially the fan knots. Personally I wouldn’t set the loft any higher than 50mm, 48mm if you like a good solid backbone. Give it a year and you’ll know why. That being said, individual tastes vary, but I think the reason one goes with a finest over a silvertip is because they want a firm brush rather than a floppy one.
- Thread starter
- #9
Went 17mm deep for loft of 48mm. Had to increase diameter of ‘hole’ to ~27-28mm so it wasnt a complete broomstick. Handle is an old zenith short/scubby (wenge). Mineral oil finish only. Might apply beeswax-havent decided yet. Pre bloom photo-waiting for silicon to cure bf initial lather. Thanks for the help.
Nice job! I wouldn’t bother with beeswax for 2 reasons: First of all it won’t hold up to rinsing the lather off the brush for long, secondly the handle looks just fine as it is! I’m sure it’s a bit firm right now but trust me, after some use it will soften up and the backbone will relax, you should end up with a very nice brush.
- Thread starter
- #11
Thanks for tip. Ill stick with mineral oil. How many applications do you initially do? As much as itll take in was my plan however many applications that may be. Im thinking I should have went with 22mm though. The 24mm is pretty big.
Mineral oil doesn’t dry or cure (polymerize) so it will wash off, which is what makes it good for utensils, cutting boards, etc., but not shaving brushes. Use something like teak, tung, linseed, or danish oil. It will polymerize and protect the handle. IMO it’s best to let it set 2-3 weeks after applying to allow it to fully cure before exposing it to water, although it’s probably safe after a few days if you can no longer smell the oil, which means it’s dry - but not yet fully cured.
- Thread starter
- #13
Interesting. Thanks for info and your help with this. Any issues if i apply one of the polymerizing oils overtop of the mineral oil? No idea how to get that out of the wood pores. Mineral spirits possibly?
- Thread starter
- #14
Should also add that I dont mind having to wipe down with mineral oil every so often unless it wont do any good as far as protection is concerned.
If you’re happy with the mineral oil and don’t mind reapplying then stay with it. It won’t give the protection a polymerizing oil will but as long as you add a coat when needed it should be ok. People keep bowls for decades using nothing but mineral oil, although they don’t get the daily use that a brush might.
- Thread starter
- #16
Because i cant leave well enough alone. Went with an oil based poly. Took forever to dry between coats, but like how the grain came out as compared to mineral oil. Shouldn’t have to mess with it anymore now.
I like the dark wood grain on the two band look.
- Thread starter
- #18
Just gotta break it in now. Thanks again for everyone’s input in completing this mini project.
I got beeswax from the farmers market...Melted it and added mineral oil...Makes a great coating for wood...and it smells good too!
