Tell me about Chainsaws

[langod]

Looking for advice on a chainsaw...

I find I need one to clean up the debris left from the winter storms and to clear some small trees in my yard. I don't need a big one, a 16 or 18 inch bar should be fine. I can get a 2cycle Homelite for about $130 at Home Depot. Is it worth it for the occasional use it would get? Or should I spend a bit more for another brand?
I'd love to get a Huskvarna or Stihl, but they're out of my price range. (I'm unemployed)
I'd like to stay well under $200.

 

[82R100]

I bought a used Homelite 14" gasoline chainsaw at our church rummage sale (for $40) and have used it several times to cut up large branches in our yard (silver maple up to 8" in diameter) and am well pleased. My earlier experience had been exclusively with electric chain saws and the gasoline model blows the electrics away.

I should think a Homelite should be sufficient for occasional use.

- Chris

 

[SmoovD]

Gas does blow electric out of the water but if you do not regularly use the saw and when you do the jobs are small there is nothing wrong with electric. I was very hesitant to make the move to electric but my needs are not such that I would need more than the electric. What is nice about the electric is that in the spring all you do is check the chain and the oil...done. That said, it is not a gas saw.

 

[bradyarz]

having worked for a tree service, i do feel a little snobby about saws. all we used to use were stihls and huskys, with the occasional echo thrown in there.

that being said, i don't know much about some of the lower brand saws. for the level of use you're looking for, just about anything should do: homelite, poulan, etc...


iff(if and only if)


you care properly for it. if you do, you should be just fine. make sure you always keep the oil tank full-- your blade will stay sharper longer. also, getting a saw that has an auto oil feature is nice, but there are still times when you'll want to have a manual button if you're bogging down.

unless you really know what you're doing when it comes to sharpening, don't try it yourself. i tried to learn a couple of times and the blades ended up worse than when i started. we had one guy at the shop who used to sharpen everyone's blades. even the seasoned guys looked to him because not only will sharpening affect how quickly you can cut, but it also will affect how the saw tracks through the wood. a badly sharpened blade, even if it is razor sharp, can still swerve and not cut straight if it hasn't been sharpened properly. all that so say: buy a new blade when you need it or take it to a shop to have it done.

 

[Walter Sobchak]

having worked for a tree service, i do feel a little snobby about saws. all we used to use were stihls and huskys, with the occasional echo thrown in there.

that being said, i don't know much about some of the lower brand saws. for the level of use you're looking for, just about anything should do: homelite, poulan, etc...


iff(if and only if)


you care properly for it. if you do, you should be just fine. make sure you always keep the oil tank full-- your blade will stay sharper longer. also, getting a saw that has an auto oil feature is nice, but there are still times when you'll want to have a manual button if you're bogging down.

unless you really know what you're doing when it comes to sharpening, don't try it yourself. i tried to learn a couple of times and the blades ended up worse than when i started. we had one guy at the shop who used to sharpen everyone's blades. even the seasoned guys looked to him because not only will sharpening affect how quickly you can cut, but it also will affect how the saw tracks through the wood. a badly sharpened blade, even if it is razor sharp, can still swerve and not cut straight if it hasn't been sharpened properly. all that so say: buy a new blade when you need it or take it to a shop to have it done.

That's good advice.

I have a Husqy (353) and it's a beast. But I live in a rural area and I use it somewhat frequently and sometimes on trees that are very large. It's overkill for probably 50% of what I do.

Echo makes some really nice saws, and some nifty little 14" saws that are light and strong. They might sneak right in at the upper end of your budget. They're popular enough so that parts and service is widely available. I think you can even buy chains at Home Depot for them.

Maybe you can pick up a Craftsman saw cheap, but I would get a service contract if it's available. It might be better than getting the Homelite without a service contract. The Craftsman saws may even be manufactured by Homelite.

 

[faster_than_u]

Stihls they are a great saw, blows our homelite out of the water(it is also a good saw though)

 

[Strikermike]

The saws at home depot are pretty much throw away saws. I'd look for a used Stihl 260 pro. It is a good strong saw and will pull a 16 inch bar with ease plus it is totally rebuildable. New they are a little over 500 dollars used you should be able to get one in the 2-250 range.

 

[dsipari]

Looking for advice on a chainsaw...

Be very careful when going ATG!!

 

[BBrad]

I spent about 20 years selling and servicing chain saws and other lawn and garden products.

There is a tremendous difference in quality and lifespan between the lower-priced and the higher-priced chainsaws.

One indicator of quality is the length of time that a saw is rated to meet Federal emissions standards. All of the "bottom end" saws and a few of the better brands are only rated for 50 hours of compliance. Brands like Echo, Red Max, Shindaiwa, Husqvarna, and some Stihl are rated for 200 hours.

The ability to remain emissions-compliant for a substantially longer period of time speaks volumes to the quality of the engine.

But, if you buy value (better quality engine) or if you buy price (low cost) one thing is certain: You must properly maintain the saw or it will not start when you need it most.

The correct fuel (mid-grade or premium for most) and proper oil (ISO LGED rated) is mandatory. Storage of the saw with stale fuel in the tank, lines, and carburetor will certainly lead to early failure. (Gas goes stale in about 45 days under ideal storage conditions. "Stabilizer" is a marketing gimmick and doesn't do much.)

If you can find a used quality saw that starts on the first or second pull and is in good physical shape, that may be your best idea for casual use. Drain the fuel and run the carb dry when storing, regardless of what you buy.

 

[RBE17]

I borrow my neighbors when I need it. In exchange, I let them borrow my power washer and plow the end of their driveway for them...works for me. FWIW, he has a Poulan and it works fine.

A co-worker has a Husqvarna and loves it.

 

[Jim]

The only advice I would offer is to get a pair of Chainsaw chaps and a full face shield no matter what saw you decide to get.
The occasional user needs these more than a pro. There is no such thing as a "small" chainsaw accident.

 

[Dennis]

For the odd jobs and infrequent chainsaw use I do, I have a Sears Craftsman 16" chainsaw that has served me well for about 10 years. I cut up firewood and downed limbs with it yearly, but I also take care of it. I think for small jobs you won't have a problem with an inexpensive chainsaw. Of course, it is preferable to borrow one instead or trade out services with someone.

 

[airplanedoc]

In that price range all chainswas are disposable.

My advice is if you are working on in a wooded area or up a tree get a gas saw. If you are simply trimimng some branches in your yard get a electric, for the occassional time you will need it.

In my expereince, chainswaw are like old harleys if you start them weekly they will start reasonably reliabily. If you let it sit in your garage for a year, it will leak oil reliabily and wont start when you want it to, without a bunch of fiddling with it.

 

[NorthALABeeKeep]

A Homelite will do fine for occasional use. If you never use a chain saw before go slow and be extremely careful. Also don't let the tip of the bar touch the ground for a spilt second while its running as this will instantly dull the chain. Try looking on you tube for a video of proper use. Just my 2 cents.

 

[langod]

Hi All -- thanks for all the advice. I think I'll go for either a Homelite or Craftsman -- but leaning towards the Craftsman 16". Judging by your advice and what else I've found on the net, those two sound like the best of the "disposable" brands.

Question: When comparing saws, I see engine sizes varying by a few ccs (say 38cc vs 42cc) is the difference in engine size worth paying extra for, all else being equal? Is there a rough "inches to ccs ratio" that is meaningful?


PS: I appreciate all the safety advice too -- I have used a chainsaw a few times, I'm by no means an expert -- but I plan on studying up and taking it slow.

 

[Strikermike]

Check out the Jonsered 2139. A few pro arborists I know love it . It is a smaller saw with a lot of power.

 

[_JP_]

Looking for advice on a chainsaw...

I find I need one to clean up the debris left from the winter storms and to clear some small trees in my yard. I don't need a big one, a 16 or 18 inch bar should be fine. I can get a 2cycle Homelite for about $130 at Home Depot. Is it worth it for the occasional use it would get? Or should I spend a bit more for another brand?
quote]

I have a 19 inch Homelight that is doing well for me (now!) But there was major trouble at first.

A word of caution - be sure to use a 32/1 oil mix in your gas! Yes, the manual says 50/1, but if you phone Homelight support they tell to use the richer mixture. What happened in my case was the engine failed with less than 10 hours on it. The cylinder was badly scored. Homelight replaced the short block at now charge to me. They do stand behind their products.

 

[Blondie]

If you haven't already picked up that Homelite, I would recommend getting an Echo CS400. It's around $299, and a great saw. Echo makes a solid product with a 2 year commercial and a 5 year consumer warranty. If you take care of it, it will last and last. The homelite, you will be replacing shortly, effectively doubling your cost, possibly even tripling it.

 

[Dennis]

Question: When comparing saws, I see engine sizes varying by a few ccs (say 38cc vs 42cc) is the difference in engine size worth paying extra for, all else being equal? Is there a rough "inches to ccs ratio" that is meaningful?

In my opinion, there is not much difference. You are not a professional arborist running a chainsaw for 10 hours a day. It will get run here and there for a couple hours a year. As long as the chain is sharp, the saw will have plenty of power to go through limbs. There should be relatively little difference between 38 and 42 cc.

 

[Walter Sobchak]

Hey, I just noticed you're in Londonderry. I know there's no shortage of power equipment shops within a 20 mile radius of you. I'd check out those shops. This time of year especially, now that snowblower season is winding, these guys often have trade-in saws and saws that they've put new bars on, etc for sale. I'll bet you can get a great saw for $125-$150, and you'll be establishing a relationship with a local small biz, who will be able to service it for you, give advice on how to use it, and sharpen your chain. I'd take an old McCulloch, Jonsered, Echo, Stihl, or Husqy, over a new Big Box Store brand anyday.

Oh, BTW, I keep two chains on hand with one of them freshly sharpened so I can just swap them out when one gets dull. Chains are pretty cheap, they're easy to swap over, and it's a great way to keep your saw ready to roll at all times.