Talk me off the ledge (first lathe)...

Discussion in 'Brush Making and Restorations' started by ralph029, Mar 14, 2019.

  1. Ice-Man

    Ice-Man Moderator

    Well as I said here is the pics

    20190405_211027.jpg 20190405_211416.jpg 20190405_211531.jpg 20190405_211701.jpg 20190405_211827.jpg 20190405_211836.jpg

    This is the one I ended up getting Lumberjack UDE65 65L Chip and Dust Extractor

    This arrives on monday

  2. Nice looking set of accessories. You're off to a good start.
  3. Ice-Man

    Ice-Man Moderator

    Thank You Sir!!!
  4. Graydog

    Graydog Contributor

    Can I come over and play :)
  5. Ice-Man

    Ice-Man Moderator

    By all means Sir your more than welcome. Then you can show me while your here how to use it. :a14::a14::a14::a14:
  6. Ice-Man

    Ice-Man Moderator

    I have just bought these for now 8 Piece Professional Wood Lathe Chisel Set,


    They include
    • 1'' Skew
    • 1/2'' Skew
    • 1/2'' Spear Point
    • 1/8'' Parting Tool
    • 1/2'' Round Nose
    • 1/4'' Gouge
    • 1/2'' Gouge
    • 3/4'' Gouge

    just something to practice with
  7. Graydog

    Graydog Contributor

    Very Nice set up you have .
    I did not notice a grinder to sharpen your tools .
  8. Ice-Man

    Ice-Man Moderator

    I already have this

    wetstone.jpg wetstone2.jpg
  9. Nice setup! I used to have a Tormek wet grinding system but it took a long time to reshape tools so I swapped it out for a low speed grinder & Wolverine setup. Now I want CBN wheels... wishing I would’ve just kept the wet grinder. The cole jaws are great for turning off the bottom of bowls and larger lidded boxes, IMO the only other option is a vacuum chuck although many might disagree. Do yourself a favor and order the aftermarket rubber studs. The stock ones don’t grip real well and tend to mar the surface. The aftermarket ones are softer and shaped to hold the bowl better, especially if it flares in or out at the rim. I put a paper towel on first to protect the bowl too. If you want to make pens don’t waste your money on a mandrel and barrel trimmer unless you like out of round and misaligned pens. There are far better ways, I’ll be happy to help you out when/if you decide to. My favorite projects are lidded boxes, I even made one to hold my Fine soap pucks. I have one I’m making as a gift for todays project, which I’m about to get to right now.

    Check out videos by Brian Havens, The Wyoming Woodturner, Mike Peace, Woodturner Ky, and Mike Waldt. They all have some great vids on proper tool use and the process for turning different projects. If you want to see a true master of the skew Woodturner21 is probably the best there is, but he doesn’t really teach technique. He’s amazing to watch though.
  10. Ice-Man

    Ice-Man Moderator

    Thank you Sir!!! I have just ordered some in short and long both sets, and I have been watching some wood turners on youtube showing how to make lidded boxes. And some other stuff it seems never ending on what can be done.

    These are the studs I got

    Rubber Studs.jpg

    But I also got this

    Robert Sorby 1/16" (2mm) Slim Parting Tool

    Robert Sorby 1-16  2mm Slim Parting Tool .jpg

    Oh and the bandsaw came today 2 days early result lol.
  11. My bumpers look different, they aren’t round, but regardless those should do much better than the stock ones. I have that same parting tool, it’s great for lidded boxes. You want to make the part as thin as possible to preserve the grain match between lid and base, and since you normally need a tenon on one or the other saving as much wood as you can is ideal. Mike Peace has some great box making videos, the Wyoming Woodturner has some nice ones too. Again I’ll be happy to help if neede when you make one. Here’s a few pics of my most recent one, padauk base & finial with a maple lid:

    5E039BD0-76D6-4A75-ADA4-5BEEE3C7917B.jpeg 21C0E38B-F3FA-4A3F-9790-BFBDAD0F7A1C.jpeg 6819C2AA-13AC-4A24-8B2E-5EF4EE690991.jpeg
  12. Graydog

    Graydog Contributor

    Beautiful Jay !
  13. Graydog

    Graydog Contributor

    I need to buy another spur drive , any recommendations ?
  14. Thanks for the compliment Steve. I prefer a steb center, sometimes called a safety center. CSUSA has their brand and a Sorby for 3x the price, theirs works just fine for me. It takes most of the danger out of a catch because the piece will spin on the center if too much torque is applied. The tighter the dead center is against it, the more torque it takes. I haven’t used a spur drive since I got it.
  15. Ice-Man

    Ice-Man Moderator

    Those are beautiful Sir!!! I have been watching his videos and the bumpers are yours square, as I have been looking today to see if I can find others apart from round.

    And yes when I get set up I will be asking you guys a lot of questions trust me, as for the pens I found a thing in the chuck box under the cardboard that goes on the motor end. I dont think it has been used by the looks of it but this is all new to me.….
  16. Thank you! Yes, my bumpers are square, kind of. They’re actually radiused squares, slightly convex on 2 sides, slightly concave on the other two, and asymetrical to fit smaller or larger bowls. They hold from inside or outside the bowl and you use the sides that fit the shape of the bowl best. The “pen thing” that goes in the headstock, does it have a 1/4” rod threaded into it, maybe 9” or so long? If so it’s a pen mandrel, if not post a pic.
  17. Ice-Man

    Ice-Man Moderator

    CigarSmoka Yep thank you found them looking at the site it comes with both, round as well as the other sort this is a picture of the bumpers.

    cole buffers .jpg
    The reason I could not find them was my own fault I was looking for SuperNova2 bumpers, but after a lot of head scratching and head banging. Why not try Cole Jaw bumpers and low and behold loads of them all sprang up dohhh.

    This is a picture of the other bit in the box.
    Now these was bought together along with the 2 jaws above in the picture below as they was on the same receipt I have drawn around it in red.
  18. That looks like a "higher quality pen mandrel" and the part circles in red looks to be a mandrel saver. It takes pressure of the mandrel shaft so it doesn't bend. It's a better setup than a standard pen mandrel, and I have used them, however like @CigarSmoka said there are more precise was of turning pens. I quit using the pen mandrel for pens but it and the mandrel saver can be useful for some projects. You could use it for holding several buffing wheels, just nothing to big.
  19. I've started turning pens between these and the fit from the wood to the pen hardware has greatly improved. This is what has worked for me but I'm not sure it would be a recommended method.

    Dead center in head.
    And live center in tail
    The only disadvantage is I can only mount one piece at a time on a two piece pen. But the Increased precision is well worth it.
    I'd be interested in seeing how you turn pens @CigarSmoka, I'm open to suggestions for a better way.
  20. @GAW9576 nailed it. That’s an adjustable mandrel, which is better than a regular one but not as accurate as turning between centers (TBC). The mandrel saver you circled slides over the mandrel against the bushings instead of using the knurled nut, which keeps the mandrel from bending. I find the mandrel saver to be very useful when I jam chuck the lid on a box and I don’t want to put a hole in it from the live center, just some added insurance it won’t fly off while I finish the lid (up until the tailstock is removed to clean off the nib from where the center was).

    I turn pens between centers but I use TBC adaptors that I got from Beartooth Woods now. The reason being if you put too much pressure on the blank it can mess up or even ruin the ends of the pen from pushing out on the wood a tiny bit. We’re talking thousandths of an inch here but every so often I would have problems. I’m a maniac with my pens so that wasn’t acceptable. TBC bushing adaptors fit those 60 degree cone centers but allow you to use the bushings, which fit the brass tube without pushing out on the very ends due to the angle of the centers. You get the advantages of a mandrel/bushings for holding the blank with the accuracy of turning between centers since theres no mandrel to bend or vibrate. I don’t use the adaptors for a CA finish though, just the cone centers with a thin layer of wax on them, but you have to be real careful not to pick up any of the wax and deposit it on the barrel with the CA. BTW, bushings are just a guide and no more, use a caliper. Here’s what the TBC adaptors look like:

    0C4D8019-D0F4-49AA-8836-EB8DF577A1E2.jpeg FF35742F-69AC-40DE-AE50-9F03B9091745.jpeg

Share This Page