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Talk me off the ledge (first lathe)...

I'm jealous of all you lathe owners - I don't have the room in my London apartment. I make my own razor handles and use a drill press and hand knurler. I've got quite creative with that setup, but a lathe would be a whole level up in fun and satisfaction.
 
I'm jealous of all you lathe owners - I don't have the room in my London apartment. I make my own razor handles and use a drill press and hand knurler. I've got quite creative with that setup, but a lathe would be a whole level up in fun and satisfaction.
Have you considered a small pen lathe or mini lathe? They are desktop versions of more powerful lathes. I would think they would be OK for brush handles and they can be purchased relatively cheaply (under $300 for a Shop Fox and just a bit over $300 for a Rikon).

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Have you considered a small pen lathe or mini lathe? They are desktop versions of more powerful lathes. I would think they would be OK for brush handles and they can be purchased relatively cheaply (under $300 for a Shop Fox and just a bit over $300 for a Rikon). Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk

I've certainly considered a mini lathe. But even then I don't have the space and the problem is lack of horsepower. A drill press is much more powerful than the usual Chinese mini-lathes. For machining copper handles you do need a bit of power. I don't plan to make brushes, they're not something that interests me. I just have my 3 Yaqi synths and happy with those. Getting creative with razor handles is plenty to be getting on with!
 

Rudy Vey

Shaving baby skin and turkey necks
I also use mainly steel tools, although I have several carbide tools. Both Sorby and Taylor are the best tools in my opinion, use a variety of chisels and gouges from them both. You need to be very careful with carbide tools, and try to avoid a catch at all.
A mini lathe like a Jet or Rikon should be fine for all kind of handles, pens etc.. However, you should get the best what you can afford, if not this month, put the money aside and save a bit and get something decent.
Variable speed is good to have, you can turn at high speed and buff a lower speed, at least that is what I do.
Tried tumbling, but sanding and buffing gave always better results.
 
I also use mainly steel tools, although I have several carbide tools. Both Sorby and Taylor are the best tools in my opinion, use a variety of chisels and gouges from them both. You need to be very careful with carbide tools, and try to avoid a catch at all.
A mini lathe like a Jet or Rikon should be fine for all kind of handles, pens etc.. However, you should get the best what you can afford, if not this month, put the money aside and save a bit and get something decent.
Variable speed is good to have, you can turn at high speed and buff a lower speed, at least that is what I do.
Tried tumbling, but sanding and buffing gave always better results.

Thank you Rudy. I really appreciate the insight.
 
I've certainly considered a mini lathe. But even then I don't have the space and the problem is lack of horsepower. A drill press is much more powerful than the usual Chinese mini-lathes. For machining copper handles you do need a bit of power. I don't plan to make brushes, they're not something that interests me. I just have my 3 Yaqi synths and happy with those. Getting creative with razor handles is plenty to be getting on with!
Got it. Yeah, that makes a lot of sense. Metal lathes need a lot more power.

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I also use mainly steel tools, although I have several carbide tools. Both Sorby and Taylor are the best tools in my opinion, use a variety of chisels and gouges from them both.

All of my gouges, skews, scrapers, and hollowing tools are Sorby. For the price they’re hard to beat, especially when CSUSA has them on sale. I’m thinking of picking up a Taylor Kryo bowl gouge for initial hollowing, as well as a Kryo roughing gouge since mine is getting a little short. From what I’ve read, they don’t take as keen an edge as M2 but last several times longer which seems perfect for a tool that’s just used for hogging off wood.
 

Rudy Vey

Shaving baby skin and turkey necks
All of my gouges, skews, scrapers, and hollowing tools are Sorby. For the price they’re hard to beat, especially when CSUSA has them on sale. I’m thinking of picking up a Taylor Kryo bowl gouge for initial hollowing, as well as a Kryo roughing gouge since mine is getting a little short. From what I’ve read, they don’t take as keen an edge as M2 but last several times longer which seems perfect for a tool that’s just used for hogging off wood.
I found both Sorby and Taylor to be much better (like holding edges etc) than no-name tools. They outlasted every cheap no name big time. Still have my first Sorby 3/4 oval skew which is now only a short stub, yet I do most of my turning with it.
 
(I don't want anyone to think that your advice is being ignored.)
I seem to be somewhat paralyzed with indecision.
Rikons seems to be on sale everywhere until the end of the month, so I have some time. The problem I have with Rikon is that the reviews I keep reading are very mixed concerning cheap metals in some of their components. I'm a Milwaukee tool guy and I've never encountered some of the problems folks list in reviews, so maybe I'm just overthinking this.
The next issue that is tripping me up is, is variable speed really worth the extra $$$ on a first lathe? I fully understand the benefits but is changing the speed with a variable switch on a hobby lathe really worth the $$$?
On top of the lathe, there is more money to spend...
Basic tool set up (gouge, skew, and parting tool) from Taylor or Sorby (I am convinced to spend good $$$ on good tools) is $125 -$175.
A live center, a 4 jaw chuck, and a drill chuck is another $175'ish plus.
Then there is material and finishing stuff.
Do I have all this right?
Delta is out of the question right now just due to costs. Jet is just over my top end budget. Nova really has horrible user reviews. I've looked around for used from various sources but haven't turned up anything.
 
It is a significant amount of money to invest, and it is your money. Therefore, advice is just that. It can be taken or ignored. Personally, I would not purchase a lathe that doesn't have variable speeds. I use slow speeds when starting a piece and when applying finishes. I use higher speeds once the piece starts to be rounded.

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It is a significant amount of money to invest, and it is your money. Therefore, advice is just that. It can be taken or ignored. Personally, I would not purchase a lathe that doesn't have variable speeds. I use slow speeds when starting a piece and when applying finishes. I use higher speeds once the piece starts to be rounded.

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Realistically how often are you changing speeds during the period between roughing and finishing?
 
Realistically how often are you changing speeds during the period between roughing and finishing?
I change speeds at least three times, often more. I often start slow, speed up as things progress, run it at full speed when finishing with the tools, then slow it down for sanding and finish coats. That said, this is what works for me. Others may have different preferences.

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Rudy Vey

Shaving baby skin and turkey necks
Realistically how often are you changing speeds during the period between roughing and finishing?
If you can swing it, get the variable speed!! You will regret it later. I change my speeds as needed by just turning a knob, different speeds for different tasks.
 
They seem to be talking you onto a higher ledge. :)

What did you expect from the enablers here though?

Looks like these boys just want to see how high I'll climb, hehehe.

There is only so much $$$ though so the going might be a little slower that I wished to do this right.
 
Looks like these boys just want to see how high I'll climb, hehehe.

There is only so much $$$ though so the going might be a little slower that I wished to do this right.

I think I would wind-up skipping moving to a different pulley too often, ruining or making things not as good as might of been. So I would probably save up for a variable.

Just a little higher. :)
 
I think I would wind-up skipping moving to a different pulley too often, ruining or making things not as good as might of been. So I would probably save up for a variable.

Just a little higher. :)

It's not the cost of the lathe so much as it is all the extra's that will be required to get started. I don't mind spending the $$$ so much as spending $$$ on a hobby that I'm not sure I'm going to enjoy enough to justify it. The other day I saw on the FB some brushes that one of the vendors made. I got so incredibly discouraged before I even started. I know it was a completely unrealistic reaction. I then saw some brushed posted on this site and thought, hell, I can do that! Boy did I digress there... I don't have a problem spending the $$$ for a quality tool with the proper options. Just want to make sure that all the bells and whistles are needed now or in the near future.
 
It's not the cost of the lathe so much as it is all the extra's that will be required to get started. I don't mind spending the $$$ so much as spending $$$ on a hobby that I'm not sure I'm going to enjoy enough to justify it. The other day I saw on the FB some brushes that one of the vendors made. I got so incredibly discouraged before I even started. I know it was a completely unrealistic reaction. I then saw some brushed posted on this site and thought, hell, I can do that! Boy did I digress there... I don't have a problem spending the $$$ for a quality tool with the proper options. Just want to make sure that all the bells and whistles are needed now or in the near future.

You might see if they have a woodworking co-op type of place near you. I would ask at a woodworking/craft wood store. If would cost some un-refundable money, but you could get some handles done, plus decide if you want to spend further monies.
 
Realistically how often are you changing speeds during the period between roughing and finishing?

More than you would think! I like to turn fast for small spindles. For a handle I rough at 2200-2500rpm, finish cuts as fast as the lathe spins, drill the hole around 400-450 depending on how hard the wood is, sand no higher than 350-450. Of course this changes drastically for larger bowls or small diameter pens, making VS even more valuable. Truthfully I’m not sure what speed I apply the CA finish at, I turn the dial until it looks about right, definitely no higher than 600, probably a bit less. First stage of polish around 900, second finer polish around 1300. As you can see, VS is well worth the money for me. Pretty much everybody I know who bought a multi-speed first wished they would’ve spent extra for VS, me included. But, it’s your money, ultimately only you can decide if it’s worth it (it is, and then some).

My Rikon has suited me well. It’s not the most accurate for drilling but 0.2mm off doesn’t matter with a brush. I find regular cleaning of the tailstock helps a lot, as well as copious amounts of epoxy when gluing the brass tubes in pen blanks. If I had it to do all over again, I would’ve passed on my first HF as well as my current Rikon and bought a Jet 12” for the same amount I spent on these two. Hindsight is always 20/20.
 
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