Anyone else here? Any interest in straight razors?
Sure is quiet in here lately
- Thread starter Laz in Tampa
- Start date
Hey Laz,
I have lots of interest, but admit to not having time to worry about honing, etc. Add to that the fact that I am somewhat uncertain whether it would be for me, I am looking for a somewhat cheap, "easy" solution. I had given a lot of thought to a disposable, either a Feather, Shavette, etc., but based on other's feedback here, I am not sure that is the way to go.
What is the bare minimum one would need to test the waters? I am assuming an ugly but shave-ready blade from a honemeister, plus some sort of strop? Any specific suggestions?
Thanks!
I have lots of interest, but admit to not having time to worry about honing, etc. Add to that the fact that I am somewhat uncertain whether it would be for me, I am looking for a somewhat cheap, "easy" solution. I had given a lot of thought to a disposable, either a Feather, Shavette, etc., but based on other's feedback here, I am not sure that is the way to go.
What is the bare minimum one would need to test the waters? I am assuming an ugly but shave-ready blade from a honemeister, plus some sort of strop? Any specific suggestions?
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #3
I have never used a Feather or a Shavette (I have used a Weck sextoblade, I use modern, readily available Fromm or Personna blades). From what I read, both the Feather and Shavette (using DE blades clipped or broken in half) can be very unforgiving.
If honing worries you, then a "real" straight may not be for you. There is a learning curve to keeping a straight maintained over its lifetime. A straight would probably be need to be honed from every few weeks to a few months, depending on when the straight starts to lose its keenness and starts to "pull" as opposed to cut.
A strop is a necessity. You should strop before every shave. A leather strop is what is traditionally used, but I have also heard people get good results stropping on newspaper, flat cardboard, vinyl notebook covers, etc.
You can get a Fromm or Personna disposable razor at any barber or beauty supply store for about 10 bucks.
If you want to try a straight, I can send you one, but it will probably be at least a two week wait, I got a few to hone for the Yahoo Straightrazors giveaway. (I like to test shave my whole face with them, to make sure they are shave ready, and I am a bit of a perfectionist, never truly satisfied.... can I get the shave a bit better? haha)
I know Rik is also getting into straights, he may have one ready now. Rik, you listening?
Either way, let me know if you want me to send you one.
If honing worries you, then a "real" straight may not be for you. There is a learning curve to keeping a straight maintained over its lifetime. A straight would probably be need to be honed from every few weeks to a few months, depending on when the straight starts to lose its keenness and starts to "pull" as opposed to cut.
A strop is a necessity. You should strop before every shave. A leather strop is what is traditionally used, but I have also heard people get good results stropping on newspaper, flat cardboard, vinyl notebook covers, etc.
You can get a Fromm or Personna disposable razor at any barber or beauty supply store for about 10 bucks.
If you want to try a straight, I can send you one, but it will probably be at least a two week wait, I got a few to hone for the Yahoo Straightrazors giveaway. (I like to test shave my whole face with them, to make sure they are shave ready, and I am a bit of a perfectionist, never truly satisfied.... can I get the shave a bit better? haha)
I know Rik is also getting into straights, he may have one ready now. Rik, you listening?
Either way, let me know if you want me to send you one.
Yup, I'm here. Scotto if you're interested, I can have a shave ready razor in the mail to you this week. Keep it if you like it. If it's not for you simply return it. I don't think you'd be happy with the disposable systems - I'd recommend you contact joel for more feedback. You can get completely setup for less money than the disposable.
Investment wise you're already well on your way. You already have the brush, creams & soaps, AS balms etc. You really only need a strop. You can pick up a good stropping system from Hand American for under $40. I reviewed this system in another thread. It also includes a pasted strop for minor touch ups to the edge.
As far as honing, I'm more than willing to keep your razors keen until you're ready to invest in a hone.
You'll need to modify your pre-shaving prep a bit. But you'll find it's a very small modification.
Send me a PM if you're interested.
Investment wise you're already well on your way. You already have the brush, creams & soaps, AS balms etc. You really only need a strop. You can pick up a good stropping system from Hand American for under $40. I reviewed this system in another thread. It also includes a pasted strop for minor touch ups to the edge.
As far as honing, I'm more than willing to keep your razors keen until you're ready to invest in a hone.
You'll need to modify your pre-shaving prep a bit. But you'll find it's a very small modification.
Send me a PM if you're interested.
Hey Scotto,
Put me in your will for the Eau du Badian?
Put me in your will for the Eau du Badian?
Laz,
Here's a question for you. I have one of Tony Miller's 4 sided paddle strops. One side is obviously the smooth leather finish of a traditional strop. One side is a very smooth and a light tan. The other two sides are a light gray with a small amount of "roughness" and the final side is a darker gray, and is the coarsest side of all. Should I apply pastes to any of these sides, and if so, what would you recommend?
Randy
Here's a question for you. I have one of Tony Miller's 4 sided paddle strops. One side is obviously the smooth leather finish of a traditional strop. One side is a very smooth and a light tan. The other two sides are a light gray with a small amount of "roughness" and the final side is a darker gray, and is the coarsest side of all. Should I apply pastes to any of these sides, and if so, what would you recommend?
Randy
- Thread starter
- #7
Well, self-appointed guru of all straight shaving knowledge that I am (not), I am going to have to refer you back to Tony Miller for proper care and pasting of his strops. I wouldn't want to give you any info that could be contrary to how he designed them, like what pastes for what finishes. I do know that he is an advocate of pastes for honing razors, and hones all the new razors he sells prior to shipping them out.
Post the answer he gives you.
Post the answer he gives you.
Laz,
I will do that...may be a day or two, but I will share the wealth!
Randy
I will do that...may be a day or two, but I will share the wealth!
Randy
I think the least he could do is get us a complete inventory of his shaving den.guenron said:Hey Scotto,
Put me in your will for the Eau du Badian?
rtaylor61 said:
I have one of these, but I bought it without the finished leather. One of your's may be finished. If you have only three unfinished sides, I would get the following diamond pastes: 3, 1, .5. The grit equivalents are: 8K, 14K and 50K. This gives you the pastes you'd use the most.
The only other thing that might be useful is a stone in the 3-4K range and an extra fine diamond hone. The 4K gives you something that can form a nice edge and the diamond wil let you put a rough edge quickly on an Ebay butter knife.
As a general rule, put the pastes in order of decreasing coarseness on the leathers in order of decreasing roughness. Tony made my paddle with the leathers in that kid of sequence as I rotated the paddle counterclockwise. This may not be possible for you, because the paddle is already made.
A good approach is to place the pastes in order of decreasing coarseness (ending with the finished leather), either in a clockwise or counterclockwise order, so that you can rotate the paddle in one direction as you work on a razor.
Scotto said:
It sounds like a Feather Artist Club would be a great choice for you. I have one and I love it. I got it after I was already using a str8, but it made it possible for me to continue shaving while I learned to strop and hone.
I believe that, as an experienced DE shaver you would transition naturally to the Feather. The key to its successful use is not to use pressure, just the weight of the razor (sound familiar?). That's something a str8 shaver is not used to, and it accounts for the trouble some of them have with it.
The downside of the Feather is that it's relatively expensive (but wonderful). You could start with something like a Shavette, but it's not the same (too light- a razor blde on a handle). If you want to experiment, I would get the Fromm from Classishaving.com. It's inexpensive and more substantial, thus, closer to a str8. I think you can get the razor and a package of blades for under $20.
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