Suggestions on how to fix this.

[Dave Sl8r]

Bought a supposedly shave Ready Boker from Maggards, but didn’t want to practice honing on it so I bought a couple of cheapies.
The gold dollar needed the spine taken down on one side to make the bevel equal, and has turned out to be much more shave ready than the Boker. Quite smooth actually.
This Zertone needs a little more love.
Any suggestion?

 

[stone and strop]

You can see that you have made contact along the entire edge on the front but not the back.
You have more wear on the front than the back too, maybe you are using more pressure on the front.
You need to remove more steel at the shank end of the spine. The wear on the spine at the back looks to not be flat.
Get that whole line on the spine flat. Keep the whole thing on the stone (it looks like you changed direction near the shank).
The bevel is not even but does not matter really, it is only cosmetic.

 

[Alum of Potash]

With diamond hones, I like to use up-and-down strokes, half-strokes on a fine DMT for correction or removing visible chips, not X-strokes, and taken in sections as needed, particularly with narrower hones. Doing so may also help to even the wear from heel to toe. Then just up-and-down strokes on the extra-fine DMT, followed by X-strokes on naturals afterwards. Personally, I hand-hold my stones when honing to give my off-hand something useful to do.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Bought a supposedly shave Ready Boker from Maggards, but didn’t want to practice honing on it so I bought a couple of cheapies.
The gold dollar needed the spine taken down on one side to make the bevel equal, and has turned out to be much more shave ready than the Boker. Quite smooth actually.
This Zertone needs a little more love.
Any suggestion?
View attachment 1054670
View attachment 1054672
View attachment 1054673

Don't worry about making bevels "equal". If the edge and spine are not parallel, then the bevel cannot be of consistent width along the entire edge, nor can it be the same width on both sides. A twisty blade will often end up with the show side having a wide bevel at the toe of the edge and a narrow one at the toe end of the spine, and vice versa for the heel end, and of course the opposite for the back side. A razor that is badly ground on a twin grinder might be overground in the middle, and you will end up with a wide edge bevel at heel and toe. Especially with a Gold Dollar, just make it shave. Don't worry about making it pretty. Pretty don't shave.

 

[Dave Sl8r]

This project is done.
Things were coming along, as well as to be expected with a twisted blade.
Just a little pressure on the toe with the push stroke, a little pressure on the heel with the pull.
I had moved on to the Naniwa to start Smoothing the DMT gouges out.
Then clink the party was over.
Oh well, next!

 

[David]

JB Weld?

 

[Dave Sl8r]

^^^
Right and I’m back in the game.

 

[stone and strop]

This project is done.
Things were coming along, as well as to be expected with a twisted blade.
Just a little pressure on the toe with the push stroke, a little pressure on the heel with the pull.
I had moved on to the Naniwa to start Smoothing the DMT gouges out.
Then clink the party was over.
Oh well, next!

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How hard are you pressing?
Can't say I've ever broke a blade while honing.

 

[LJS]

Interesting - I’ve never cracked a blade before. All the used ones I ended up with in razor lots that were cracked, I always thought they got slammed like in a drawer or dropped. Didn’t know it could happen during honing!

 

[Dave Sl8r]

Judging by pushing my finger down on my kitchen scale I would say about 1-1.5 lb, because .5-1lb as in these two photos just wasn’t catching the toe and heal very well.
Amazon has warranted it, and another one in route already, it should be here tomorrow. Hopefully one a little less wiggie.

 

[Dave Sl8r]

Not to mention the shank modification just to clear that part of the factor out of the equation.
I wouldn’t think the shank modification would’ve heated it up enough to have caused the issue since I was holding it with my fingers right next to the area I was working on, and while it got warm it never really got that hot, but who knows.

 

[LJS]

So, you were pushing down (pressure) to get heel and toe contact? Not sure that is how I would do it and maybe why it cracked. If it were me, I either roll the razor while honing, continue to hone using normal pressure on lower grit stone until the full edge touches and geometry catches up, or even consider tape to get to the edge (not a route I take often). Im not sure that using heavy pressure to flex the razor and force flat contact on the stone is the best route - maybe this works for others?

 

[Dave Sl8r]

So, you were pushing down (pressure) to get heel and toe contact?

No, as I said in post # 5
”Just a little pressure on the toe with the push stroke, a little pressure on the heel with the pull.”
Yes, I could have rolled it, and gone freehand. Probably would’ve had better results, but the spine, the built-in bevel/angle settler, is what attracted me to straight razors in the first place.
I shouldn’t have been in as much of a hurry, I could’ve ground that spine down to meet the edge, but would always have to finesse that blade to make it right.
Sorry life's to short to spend that kind of time on a defective product.
As I said in my above post, hopefully the next one will be better.

 

[bluesman 7]

Rolling does not mean that you cease using the spine as a guide.

 

[Dave Sl8r]

^^^I agree

 

[The MacGyver]

What you are seeing is likely a "twist" in the blade, meaning the centerline of the edge is skewed from the centerline of the spine (not parallel) and one or both those centerlines may not be straight. You will usually grind the blade into dust before you fix this by taking more metal off. As long as your bevel angle is where you want it, then a slight rocking stroke is the only way to go in situations like this.

 

[Dave Sl8r]

^^^
You are correct sir.