Suggestions on a razor to try/ My experience

[engblom]

Mild razor = a razor requiring perfect control of angle or it will not shave
Aggressive razor= a razor shaving even if the angle is slightly wrong

Aggressive as well as mild razors will produce a close shave for even the most coarse beards. As an aggressive razor is having more blade exposure, it is easier to get the blade against the skin. With a mild razor you only get the blade against the skin if you hold the razor perfectly at the right angle for that particular razor. It is thus easier to use an aggressive razor.

Personally, I think your main problem is angle, which then leads to your second problem with pressure. If you use a milder razor you are maybe trying to compensate the wrong angle with pressure. You maybe expect to feel some blade and if you are holding it at a wrong angle, you maybe give enough of pressure that you begin to feel some blade. This is a quite common problem. Wrong angle combined with pressure will give the result you described.

With each razor one need to find the perfect angle. In razor reviews, people are often commenting on how easy it was to find the angle and some razors aid in finding the angle by having a flat side on the top cap. You can not take a razor and just randomly hold the handle, as you describe it, "halfway between the floor and parallel".

Many razors work well by "riding the cap", which means you move down the handle from parallel with the floor until you barely begin to notice the blade. Then some razors are working well by riding the safety bar or comb, which means you place the guard against the skin and the handle right down, and then you lift the handle until you barely begin to feel the blade. In both cases you should not force the blade against the skin with pressure, instead you should adjust the angle until the blade is touching your skin. If your skin is bulging under the razor, you have too much pressure.

While razors like R41 will shave with almost any angle, even this razor is working best at certain angles. The skill in finding the angle is benefiting for any razor.

 

[Mantis Toboggan]

With each razor one need to find the perfect angle.

Yep, I got it
Esox said: ↑
It sounds like you're shaving at a neutral angle. Try using different razors at different angles and search for the most comfortable angle that still cuts at a satisfactory level. All razors are different and there is no one set technique for all.
Yea, I'll try soon what you said about all comb on the old type. See how that works out.

 

[MitchellUK]

Merkur Futur gives plenty of blade feel and you can obviously adjust it to your tastes. Very heavy razor so I don't feel the need to apply any real pressure. You may prefer to try one of the Futur clones based on cost in case it doesn't work for you?

 

[Mantis Toboggan]

Merkur Futur gives plenty of blade feel and you can obviously adjust it to your tastes. Very heavy razor so I don't feel the need to apply any real pressure. You may prefer to try one of the Futur clones based on cost in case it doesn't work for you?

Yea but god is it ugly lol. I guess that doesn't really matter. I didn't really know about clones being available for it. Good thought.

 

[heyello]

Another vote for the fatip piccolo, or grande, they're absolutely fantastic razors for a great price.
If you want something different you could get a slant, fatip is coming out with one sometime this year, but there's a slew of others that are already around.
I'm partial to the PAA alpha ecliptic atm, although the merkur 37c had a pretty good run with me, just a tad too mild for my liking.

Since it seems you prefer more aggressive razors, I think it'd be pretty difficult to go wrong with a fatip or slant. they're generally known to be better with more growth since they're fairly aggressive and efficient.

 

[Twelvefret]

I thought about that, but I've seen people say the fatboy and slim shave exactly the same, the handles are the only difference. Is that right?

That's the way it looks to be from the photos I have seen. Do you prefer fat or skinny?

I started accumulating razors around February. My intent was to experience vintage razors and not to simply collect dozens of razors and boxes. We all have our motives.

What I learned was what everyone thought to be an "aggressive" razor, the red tip, was not that way at all compared to a '31 Barbasol FH or a thin cap Old Type. The red tip was merely aggressive compared to others in the mid '60's.

So I surmised that razors evolved beginning in the teens when men were using a straight razor and knew how to handle a blade. Razors became more and more forgiving, but less effective. Maybe this is when "multiple passes" were necessary to obtain a smooth shave.

I have learned to get the same or similar shave using the Old Type or mid '60's Krona because I am learning to use the tool. I find this interesting and motivating. I'm still evolving and developing my skill set.

 

[engblom]

So I surmised that razors evolved beginning in the teens when men were using a straight razor and knew how to handle a blade. Razors became more and more forgiving, but less effective. Maybe this is when "multiple passes" were necessary to obtain a smooth shave.

While there is a certain trend inside of the Gillette brand, I think it is not possible to generalize. There exists razors much more aggressive than earlier razors. Take razors like R41, Fatip or iKon Tech, they are all modern but I suspect they are more aggressive than all of the razors from Gillette production. Even the often recommended DE89 is more aggressive than several of the Gillette razors.

Then I have to disagree about multiple passes. I am using milder razors than Gillette Tech and I use just two passes. With a two pass shave I achieve the same close shave as from a Gillette Old Type. I find mild razors to be efficient and smooth at the same time. Mild razors are not forgiving a bad angle, because if you are slightly off with the angle, the blade will be lifted away from the skin. The efficiency comes by keeping the right angle so the blade is always against the skin. A razor is just a blade holder, nothing else. If the blade is touching the skin it will result in a close shave without a need to add extra passes.

 

[Twelvefret]

While there is a certain trend inside of the Gillette brand, I think it is not possible to generalize. There exists razors much more aggressive than earlier razors. Take razors like R41, Fatip or iKon Tech, they are all modern but I suspect they are more aggressive than all of the razors from Gillette production. Even the often recommended DE89 is more aggressive than several of the Gillette razors.

Then I have to disagree about multiple passes. I am using milder razors than Gillette Tech and I use just two passes. With a two pass shave I achieve the same close shave as from a Gillette Old Type. I find mild razors to be efficient and smooth at the same time. Mild razors are not forgiving a bad angle, because if you are slightly off with the angle, the blade will be lifted away from the skin. The efficiency comes by keeping the right angle so the blade is always against the skin. A razor is just a blade holder, nothing else. If the blade is touching the skin it will result in a close shave without a need to add extra passes.

I have no experience with anything after 1964 so I concede your point. However, with Gillette, it is obvious the evolution was greater safety. After 1947 the shaver no longer needed to handle the blade except to dispose. Many here will agree, I think, that other razor makers produced razors during the '20's and '30's that were less forgiving than Gillette.

There is a reason Gillette introduced the colored tips and adjustable type. I think the reason is that one size did not fit all. The adjustable type streamlined manufacturing I bet, and that was the intent I suspect.

I no longer need multiple pass since identifying where I need to shave ATG and WTG. This is the basis for saying that I can get the same or similar regardless of the razor.

 

[Esox]

I've been doing one pass ATG lately with the MMOC, more for sport than necessity since irritation isn't an issue for me. Works just fine.

I'm glad to hear someone else tried that kind of shave!

The MMOC will do it, easily. The GEM PTFE blades are lacking a little for me and its a bit rough over my swirls, but its fine everywhere else. I do use it a bit steeper than its meant to be used however. Its more effective for me that way and I need less buffing.

While there is a certain trend inside of the Gillette brand, I think it is not possible to generalize. There exists razors much more aggressive than earlier razors. Take razors like R41, Fatip or iKon Tech, they are all modern but I suspect they are more aggressive than all of the razors from Gillette production. Even the often recommended DE89 is more aggressive than several of the Gillette razors.

Then I have to disagree about multiple passes. I am using milder razors than Gillette Tech and I use just two passes. With a two pass shave I achieve the same close shave as from a Gillette Old Type. I find mild razors to be efficient and smooth at the same time. Mild razors are not forgiving a bad angle, because if you are slightly off with the angle, the blade will be lifted away from the skin. The efficiency comes by keeping the right angle so the blade is always against the skin. A razor is just a blade holder, nothing else. If the blade is touching the skin it will result in a close shave without a need to add extra passes.

When I shave with a post war Tech its basically 6 full passes, no matter the blade, for the same level of BBS I get in one buffing pass with my Grande or 2 1/2 passes with my NEW SC or Single Ring. Comfort and post shave feel is the same among them all as long as I do my part.

It's been my experience that milder razors take smaller bites of the stubble. That translates into more passes for the same depth of cut. My made in England Old Type clone shaves exactly like you might think an OC post war Tech might. The same comfort level and a bit more efficient. With it for the same BBS finish its 3 full passes and 1-2 cleanups.

I agree that with milder razors, maintaining the correct angle is everything. Drop the angle just a bit and it wont cut much at all. The pay off for that is comfort and ease of use.

The NEW LC I had was quite mild, but still effective. The NEW SC is a good step up from the LC and equal to the typical Old Type, but the SC has gap and the Old Types dont.

I have three Old Types, a 1917 Single Ring, a made in Canada Old and the Brit clone. All shave differently from each other. The Single Ring is bliss, the clone is very mild and the Canadian is somewhere between the two. They all vary in efficiency and feel and I think the majority of Old Types will all shave a bit differently. They seem to be very much individuals.

The Fatip OC head is in an entirely different league from any Gillette I've used with the exception of my 1940 Regent. Blade exposure between the two is similar and the Regent may actually have a bit more, but the Fatip is a much smoother shave. The 3 piece razor clamps the blade a lot tighter than the early TTO's.

Fatip Grande left, Gillette Regent Tech right.



Both are incredibly efficient, but your technique better be on point, especially with the Regent. Its the most unforgiving razor I've yet used.

 

[GearNoir]

6 passes with a Tech...holy smokes!

I haven’t had a razor yet that I’ve had to do more than 3, Techs included. YMMV!

 

[Highspeedlane]

Any thoughts on possibly a slant? They are extremely effective and the Merkur 37C's are not too terribly expensive.

 

[Esox]

6 passes with a Tech...holy smokes!

I haven’t had a razor yet that I’ve had to do more than 3, Techs included. YMMV!

Yeah, its frustrating! lol

My most recent shave with one;

48 hours since last shave and back to 'just shaving', for the moment...

Post war tech/Fat handle. Fresh Feather.

Proraso Green.

Maggard synthetic.

Standard 3 pass++++ shave.

First pass N-S. Second pass S-N. Third pass directly ATG. No buffing at any point.

First clean up at and below my jawline, buffing ATG.

Second clean up pass below my jawline, buffing ATG.

Third clean up pass and back over my jawline at a 45° angle and buffing over my swirls.

Fourth clean up pass lol, 45° the opposite direction and buffing over my swirls.

In the end I needed to start all over again hahaha.

I have very comfortable skin and a very nice BBS shave, but I damn well better after that much work! Mild razors are just that mild. Easy on the skin but not what I'd call efficient. It was an enjoyable shave, its hard to dismiss that much comfort, but at the same time its maddeningly frustrating.

I'll use it again the next time I feel like whittling a Totem Pole...or something.

Feather blades have never been the best performers for me. Maybe I should load a Derby Extra in it for tomorrow and see how it does. They out perform Feather for me in all my razors. Go figure lol.

 

[Roccomon]

Any thoughts on possibly a slant? They are extremely effective and the Merkur 37C's are not too terribly expensive.

I have to agree the slants would be a good option for a smooth efficient razor, though they can bite if you aren't careful.. I guess most razors can!

Another option, less expensive than the slants and will give a very nice shave is the RR SLOC. I usually use a R41, but have a few shaves in with the newly acquired SLOC and I am really liking it. A very smooth razor, not particularly aggressive, still gives a very close shave without the fear of making a mistake and doing damage.

The R41 and SLOC can be had for under $30 (incl shipping), while the Merkur 37C is more in the $40 range.

Right to left: 37C / SLOC / R41

 

[srgjazz]

I have tried most of the vintage Gillette’s and many of the modern razors. My recommendation is go to Maggard and get the R41 head and a SS Handle. There is a learning curve but stay with it and it will reward. The R41 will quickly expose any flaws in your preparation. Make sure your lather is thick and slick. The 41 is notoriously hard on blades. I use a fresh one for each shave.

 

[Esox]

I have to agree the slants would be a good option for a smooth efficient razor, though they can bite if you aren't careful.. I guess most razors can!

Another option, less expensive than the slants and will give a very nice shave is the RR SLOC. I usually use a R41, but have a few shaves in with the newly acquired SLOC and I am really liking it. A very smooth razor, not particularly aggressive, still gives a very close shave without the fear of making a mistake and doing damage.

The R41 and SLOC can be had for under $30 (incl shipping), while the Merkur 37C is more in the $40 range.

Right to left: 37C / SLOC / R41
View attachment 895204

The R41 with the SLOC cap seems seems to be a very good match.

This razor shaves me closely. Count me in.

The SLOC with a barber pole handle is next on my list. I have an R41 head on its way.

 

[Roccomon]

The R41 with the SLOC cap seems seems to be a very good match.




The SLOC with a barber pole handle is next on my list. I have an R41 head on its way.

I have used the SLOC top plate with the R41 bottom plate and found that it does remain quite aggressive and a little smoother than stock R41. But doesn't compare to the smoothness of the standard SLOC. I only have a few shaves with the SLOC but am very impressed, though I do need the 3rd pass and then some clean up. With the R41 it is generally 2 passes with some clean up. Where the SLOC shines is that it is very forgiving of technique mistakes, a razor that lets your mind wander just a bit to enjoy the moment without fear of "oh damn"!

 

[Esox]

without fear of "oh damn"!

I know that feeling, but with my Fatip it comes after I see blood if I screw up. I never feel it when it happens. Thankfully, I cant remember the last time that razor made me bleed, but it did every shave for the first 8-10 shaves. Always in the same place, right side of my mouth. That razor taught me I need to shave in a different direction there. As soon as I did, no more blood.

 

[jmudrick]

I think folks would do as well with RR German 37. It's not like Dovo-Merkur production is any more precise or long lasting than Chinese/Indian.

I have to agree the slants would be a good option for a smooth efficient razor, though they can bite if you aren't careful.. I guess most razors can!

Another option, less expensive than the slants and will give a very nice shave is the RR SLOC. I usually use a R41, but have a few shaves in with the newly acquired SLOC and I am really liking it. A very smooth razor, not particularly aggressive, still gives a very close shave without the fear of making a mistake and doing damage.

The R41 and SLOC can be had for under $30 (incl shipping), while the Merkur 37C is more in the $40 range.

Right to left: 37C / SLOC / R41
View attachment 895204

 

[Mantis Toboggan]

Another vote for the fatip piccolo, or grande, they're absolutely fantastic razors for a great price.

It seems a lot of people like these. I think I did look into these awhile ago and was concerned about the quality. They must be doing something right though.

My intent was to experience vintage razors and not to simply collect dozens of razors and boxes.

Me too, that's why I don't want a fatboy if it's very similar to a slim.

Any thoughts on possibly a slant? They are extremely effective and the Merkur 37C's are not too terribly expensive.

I have thought about it, but have also wondered if it's just like a gimmick. I'm probably wrong, because nobody else seems to think so.

will give a very nice shave is the RR SLOC.

I haven't seen that yet. I'll have to check it out.

I noticed if I do go with the Muhle r41, it sells for quite a bit less on modern man. Has anyone had any experience with them? Is it legit?

 

[heyello]

It seems a lot of people like these. I think I did look into these awhile ago and was concerned about the quality. They must be doing something right though.

You shouldn't have any worries about quality, functional or aesthetic, my grande and piccolo arrived and looked very nice.
The only thing is the blade can wiggle around while your tightening the head since the base of the post is thinner than the rest, so you might have to end up adjusting it to be even on both sides, it's not like its difficult though.