Suggestions on a razor to try/ My experience

[Mantis Toboggan]

So first off, this is my experience into DE shaving:

I used to use cheap disposable bics and they were pretty horrible. I would only shave occasionally and when I did it was like pulling out my hair with dull glass. I went into a different line of work where I started having to shave regularly, so I started looking into better options. I saw that commercial from the guy from Pawn Stars promoting the One Touch I think it was called. I also saw those commercials for dollar shave club that said something like "Why do you need more than one blade? Your handsome grandfather only needed one." That implied to what I thought was a DE razor, but it was just a cheap single edge disposable. Ironically they didn't even sell those anymore. I tried them for a couple months or so and they were better, but I still wondered about the DE razors I saw.

I did some research online and ended up getting a Maggard starter kit. I was very careful and I think I nicked myself only slightly the first time. After some more tries I decided this was something I could get into.

That was the only razor I used for a long time until I discovered that I could get vintage razors for relatively cheap. It's been about a couple years ago since I started this experience and since then I've acquired a 53' super speed, a red tip, a slim, an old type, and very recently an Aristocrat.

This is what I've learned so far: I noticed pretty much everywhere that the general concept is that the milder the razor, the harder it is to cut yourself and easier it is to shave with. Not with me. For some reason I cut myself more and get more irritation with the mild razors. I'm guessing I inadvertently feel the need to apply more pressure with those razors. That's just a theory though. I also never go against the grain. The few times I've tried that, I ended up a bloody irritated itchy mess. Maybe I have sensitive skin. I dunno.

So because of this, my favorite that I've tried is the red tip, with the slim in second. The red tip seems to glide better while the slim seems a little more scrapey against my skin, if that makes sense. My theory about that is that I think the red tip has a different blade angle (it's more curved.) Everything else is way too mild. I'm probably going to end up selling the rest. I already gave away the 53' ss. I also never use the Maggard anymore because I don't like how much play the blade has. You basically have to line it up by hand.

I see now that this is becoming a long post. Sorry about that. But all that is my back history to help with recommendations to what might be better than a red tip. I really like my red tip, but I do wonder sometimes if there's something even better. I thought this might be the Aristocrat, but sadly it was not.

I'm thinking I might be better off looking into the modern razors. I noticed the Rockwells because of all the rave reviews, but I believe they are considered pretty mild, so that might be another bad choice. Maybe a Muhle R41?

Oh I also forgot to mention that I usually don't shave everyday. I usually do every other day or so. I don't mind a bit of scruff. I thought maybe that was why I didn't get along with the milder razors, so I tested that and started shaving everyday with the Aristocrat since I really wanted to like it, but no. Even then I still prefer the red tip.

So yea, any suggestions or feedback is highly appreciated.

 

[GearNoir]

Fatip Grande or Piccolo. Can be as smooth or aggressive as you like, efficient in either case. Brass base razor plated over with nickel.

The r41 you’ve seen and mentioned is a good step up from the Fatip into blade feel.

 

[REV579]

I’m curious to know more about your experience with the Old Type. No matter which razor you choose, let the razor do the work. With the modern cart razors, the user did the work via pressure, and like many of the ppl on the forum, it created a bad habit that doesn’t translate with DE razors. A good blade and an Old Type might serve you well. These razors should be used like a filet knife, not a hoe. Angle matters. With the Old Type, either cap style, the angle of the razor is able to be seen rather well.
I’d add the NEW, Short Comb to your list to try. The Good Will 162 & 164 might be right up your alley too.
You might not be a TTO person, which is ok also.

 

[Mantis Toboggan]

I’m curious to know more about your experience with the Old Type.

I probably should use it more to make sure, but it didn't seem too aggressive to me like I thought open combs were supposed to be. It was ok though. I'll try it again next time.

With the modern cart razors, the user did the work via pressure, and like many of the ppl on the forum, it created a bad habit that doesn’t translate with DE razors.

Yea, I take my time and try to consciously use little pressure. It just seems easier when you feel the blade more. With the mild ones it seems like it's not really doing anything and you have to go back over everything multiple times to get it all. I try not to use pressure, but I guess I do anyway. That's the only reason I see it not working as well. I shaved today with the red tip and got no irritation or cuts. It makes my skin feel good too.

 

[Mantis Toboggan]

Fatip Grande or Piccolo.

Thanks, I've seen those mentioned, but have never looked into them. I should probably do that.

 

[Twelvefret]

I think the short answer is that you are a red tip man. I’ve had two and enjoy everything about them .

Others can advise, but you may like a nicely preserved Fat boy.

 

[Esox]

A Fatip is never a bad choice. I use mine with a single buffing pass as directly ATG as I can at around 48 hours growth. I always shave every other day too. Coarse growth and sensitive skin.

I can shave the same way, first pass ATG with my Gillette NEW SC and my 1917 Gillette Single Ring, but they end up taking me 2 1/2 passes for the same BBS the Fatip Grande gives me in one pass and one light clean up.

The Fatip OC head is The King of efficiency of all the DE's I've used, but an R41 head is enroute.

The Gillette Old Types require a more finely honed technique to get the most from but because I had used my Grande so much before I got all my Old Types, they seem simple and easy. The Fatip demands a much higher level of proficiency to use than any of my Old Types.

Fatips have a lot more blade exposure and combined with the geometry and size of the head, the actual window of working angles is very broad. Finding and maintaining that very precise angle is the hard part.

I use mine extremely shallow, riding the cap, and try and get the blades edge as close to parallel to my skin as I can. If I can feel the blade I'm too steep. The Old Types have less blade exposure, but its still generous. I use mine as steeply as I can, nothing but comb.

My 1940 Gillette Regent falls somewhere in between. It has a lot of blade exposure and minimal blade gap, but because its a TTO it doesnt clamp the blade as tightly as a 3 piece razor does. Every Gillette TTO I've used, needs to have the knob tight.

Keep all the razors you have. As your technique improves, and it will, the Aristocrat and the Old Types will become much easier to use. I'm torn between my Fatip Grande and my 1917 Single Ring. Both are fantastic razors, but both are very different.

The Fatip Grande and Piccolo share the same head, only the handles differ. The Fatip Gentile is different, more a hybrid comb than a safety bar or open comb. All are machined brass razors and I dont believe theres a better deal on a modern razor in the entire DE world.

If you'd like to read about mine, and my experiences with it using around 20 different blades you can here: My Grande Journey

All shaves starting at shave #7 on page 5 I think are done directly ATG at around 48 hours growth. Since I got my 3 Old Types, my Grande has been taking a back seat.

For my last two shaves I've been using a Slim, but it doesnt work well for me below #5 and works the best at 9 but the gap can cause me some irritation shaving at a neutral angle. My most comfortable shaves come from a minimal gap and generous blade exposure.

 

[REV579]

Keep all the razors you have. As your technique improves, and it will, the Aristocrat and the Old Types will become much easier to use.

Sound advice. What you want and what you are able to do/achieve can easily evolve over time. If you do let razors go, only do it as a cull-let the little ones go and keep the trophies.

 

[BigJ]

So many razors, so little time!!

 

[Mantis Toboggan]

you may like a nicely preserved Fat boy.

I thought about that, but I've seen people say the fatboy and slim shave exactly the same, the handles are the only difference. Is that right?

 

[Mantis Toboggan]

I use mine with a single buffing pass as directly ATG as I can at around 48 hours growth.

Wow! I didn't think anyone just starts with against the grain, especially after two days. I'm pretty sure my face would be hamburger if I tried that lol.

If you'd like to read about mine, and my experiences with it using around 20 different blades you can here: My Grande Journey

I will definitely have to check that out. The wide usable angle does concern me though.

Keep all the razors you have. As your technique improves, and it will, the Aristocrat and the Old Types will become much easier to use.

Yea I suppose I'll hang on to them awhile and see what happens.

For everything I kinda use the same angle I suppose. Just put it flat against my face with the handle like halfway between the floor and parallel. It feels kinda awkward putting it up higher.

 

[GearNoir]

I thought about that, but I've seen people say the fatboy and slim shave exactly the same, the handles are the only difference. Is that right?

Depends on who you ask. Some say they are virtually the same shave, others prefer one or the other. For instance I get much better shaves from the Fatboy and find it also much smoother.

 

[Esox]

Wow! I didn't think anyone just starts with against the grain, especially after two days. I'm pretty sure my face would be hamburger if I tried that lol.


I will definitely have to check that out. The wide usable angle does concern me though.


Yea I suppose I'll hang on to them awhile and see what happens.

For everything I kinda use the same angle I suppose. Just put it flat against my face with the handle like halfway between the floor and parallel. It feels kinda awkward putting it up higher.

As far as I know, I'm the only one on this entire forum that shaves like that, with any razor. Once I understood my beard map, knew which blades worked the best for me and understood what I needed to do, it was surprisingly easy. The Fatip razors are extremely rigid designs and my beard map is very easy to shave. I'm lucky in that regard.

Learning how to shave like that and finding which blades would let me, was the hard part. Only two blades let me have that shave, Polsilver SI and Gillette Yellow.

I'm very curious to see how well the R41 will stack up against the Fatip in that kind of shave.

It sounds like you're shaving at a neutral angle. Try using different razors at different angles and search for the most comfortable angle that still cuts at a satisfactory level. All razors are different and there is no one set technique for all.

A good rule of thumb with less forgiving razors might be to ride the cap, a shallower angle. Using a shallow angle by riding the cap, the amount of gap could be measured in feet, it doesnt matter how much gap a razor has because your skin isnt passing through it.

Shaving at a neutral angle, cap and comb equally, allows the skin to pass through the blade gap between safety bar and the blades edge. That makes the razor more effective because it changes the angle of skin against blade edge. The more pressure you use, the harder the skin is pushed into the gap and against the blades edge.

Using a steeper angle, all safety bar or comb, presents the blade in a way that it cuts more effectively, but your skin can pay the price. That price rises quickly as blade exposure, and pressure applied, increase.

Treat every razor as an individual and find the angle that agrees with you the most while focusing on comfort being the #1 priority. The rest will come in its own time.

 

[Bhugo]

Try a New Long Comb. Very smooth and quite aggressive in my book.

 

[jmudrick]

I've been doing one pass ATG lately with the MMOC, more for sport than necessity since irritation isn't an issue for me. Works just fine.

As far as I know, I'm the only one on this entire forum that shaves like that, with any razor. Once I understood my beard map, knew which blades worked the best for me and understood what I needed to do, it was surprisingly easy. The Fatip razors are extremely rigid designs and my beard map is very easy to shave. I'm lucky in that regard.

Learning how to shave like that and finding which blades would let me, was the hard part. Only two blades let me have that shave, Polsilver SI and Gillette Yellow.

I'm very curious to see how well the R41 will stack up against the Fatip in that kind of shave.

It sounds like you're shaving at a neutral angle. Try using different razors at different angles and search for the most comfortable angle that still cuts at a satisfactory level. All razors are different and there is no one set technique for all.

A good rule of thumb with less forgiving razors might be to ride the cap, a shallower angle. Using a shallow angle by riding the cap, the amount of gap could be measured in feet, it doesnt matter how much gap a razor has because your skin isnt passing through it.

Shaving at a neutral angle, cap and comb equally, allows the skin to pass through the blade gap between safety bar and the blades edge. That makes the razor more effective because it changes the angle of skin against blade edge. The more pressure you use, the harder the skin is pushed into the gap and against the blades edge.

Using a steeper angle, all safety bar or comb, presents the blade in a way that it cuts more effectively, but your skin can pay the price. That price rises quickly as blade exposure, and pressure applied, increase.

Treat every razor as an individual and find the angle that agrees with you the most while focusing on comfort being the #1 priority. The rest will come in its own time.

 

[Mantis Toboggan]

For instance I get much better shaves from the Fatboy and find it also much smoother.

Ah. I might have to see if I can find a good deal one to try.

Polsilver SI and Gillette Yellow

Ah yea, I like gillette yellows. I haven't tried polsilver yet.

I'm very curious to see how well the R41 will stack up against the Fatip in that kind of shave.

Yea, I'll have to look out for the update.

It sounds like you're shaving at a neutral angle. Try using different razors at different angles and search for the most comfortable angle that still cuts at a satisfactory level. All razors are different and there is no one set technique for all.

Yea, I'll try soon what you said about all comb on the old type. See how that works out.

Try a New Long Comb. Very smooth and quite aggressive in my book.

Nice, I thought about seeing if anyone wanted to trade my old for a new.

 

[Macfrommichigan]

Schone open comb, nickel.

Made by Fatip. Nice handle.

 

[86-foxtrot]

The only way to know for sure if there is a better razor out there for you is to try out as many razors as you can. There is no golden formula or one magical razor that works for all.

Only you knows what is best for your particular skin, beard growth, etc. We can sit here and recommend razors for you all day. What works for me may not work for you.

I personally enjoy sharp blades (e.g. Feathers, Polsilvers) in medium-aggressive razors. I also prefer high quality (Stainless steel) or comparable to ensure the razor out lasting my lifespan. I have two razors only in my rotation. I do have other razors but they honestly don't resonate well.

That may not be your cup of tea as quality vs. price can get pretty high quickly. I started out wetshaving with the cheapest DE razors I could find and quickly became addicted. I still get the itch to try other razors but tell myself why bother when I am getting perfectly great shaves with my current razors?

 

[Mantis Toboggan]

Schone open comb, nickel.

Made by Fatip. Nice handle.

Yea, looks nice

 

[Mantis Toboggan]

The only way to know for sure if there is a better razor out there for you is to try out as many razors as you can. There is no golden formula or one magical razor that works for all.

Only you knows what is best for your particular skin, beard growth, etc. We can sit here and recommend razors for you all day. What works for me may not work for you.

Well the problem with that is I don't have the funds or desire to buy every random razor around and try them all, so that's why I put what I do like and am looking for with what I have tried so that it might help guide me to something specific to try next.