Straight Razor vs DE: Skin Sensitivity

[FoxconnWorker]

Hi,

I do own a straight razor currently, but it wasn't sharp enough when I bought it. So, I have yet to shave with a straight razor.

What I've been doing up until now is shaving with an Edwin Jagger with DE blades in it, which has been fine.
But in order for me to get a really close shave, I find I need to do a 3-pass shave.
I have sensitive skin, and a 3-pass shave definitely reminds me of that fact.

I can perform this shave at maximum every third day, or my skin freaks out.
I'd love to do the shave at least every other day.

So, I was thinking if shaving with a straight razor will be more gentle on the skin? [I guess I wouldn't have to do a 3-pass shave to get the same close shave, right?]
Is there a general consensus as to which (DE vs Straight) is harder on your skin?

Do you think I would be able to increase shave frequency with a straight razor, without my skin having to go through hell for it?

Thanks.

 

[elverdiblanco]

Have you been DE shaving for long? My first few DE shaves were a bit raw as I was determined to get a close shave, but I learned to back off a little and concentrate on a comfortable shave without it necessarily being close. The closeness comes as technique improves. Sounds like you're either getting the blade angle wrong and/or applying too much pressure.

 

[FoxconnWorker]

Have you been DE shaving for long? My first few DE shaves were a bit raw as I was determined to get a close shave, but I learned to back off a little and concentrate on a comfortable shave without it necessarily being close. The closeness comes as technique improves. Sounds like you're either getting the blade angle wrong and/or applying too much pressure.

Been using DE for about 3 years now.
I don't think I'm doing anything wrong with the DE.

 

[inspiringK]

The easiest option may be to find a way of improving your DE shaves. Really think of the blades you are using, your prep, your brush, your lather, technique etc. Often the answer is simply in improving the lather - what are you using for gear now?

That being said, my best shaves when I get the closest and are the least likely to give me irritation are from straight shaving. But, then again, my worst might also be from a bad day with a straight. All in all, straight shaving can provide a better shave for me than my best DE shave, but the times when even one thing is off with the straight the experience is not as good as with my DE.

If you have trouble getting irritation free shaves with the DE at the moment, yes there is a chance that the straights may serve you better, but it takes at least 50 shaves to get to the point where your straights can be better than your DE (IMO). So, the ideal would be to find a solution other than switching to straights - though a switch to straights is not a bad idea, I just don't think that it will solve your problem.

 

[aihpcfl]

I doubt you are going to improve your situation with a straight. The straight users will probably disagree, but it still boils down to you dragging a blade across your skin and how you do that while cutting whiskers and minimizing the assault on your skin.

My first questions would be about your prep and the amount of pressure you are applying. I see no problem with the choice of razor. Maybe a different blade would help, but I don't know.

I know you have been shaving for a while so maybe prep and all is as good as it could be. So if that is the case I would see if you can improve things with a more lubricating soap or cream. And lastly, I would look at reducing the number of passes, say from three to two, and seeing how you could make that work.

 

[Kostas_Greece]

I second all of the above. Pressure is #1 culprit here. Be gentle and your skin's gonna be happier than ever

 

[smalltank]

IMO...I also have sensitive skin...real straights razors dont have any coating on them and you can hone em smooth enough not to feel a scrape like a DE blade if the DE blade doesnt agree with you...straights will give you far less nicks/cuts/irritation compared to DE/SE and no need to buy blades..a lifetime of use when taken care of...I rehone every 6 shaves...10 minutes on my coticule and good as new...

 

[Ducati Scotty]

I've been shaving with an EJ89DE for about 6 months. I've been shaving almost all of this month with a straight.

I got some razor burn at first with the DE. After a few months of practice with the DE and finding out which blades worked best for me I can shave every day, 3 1/2 passes to BBS, with no irritation. It did take me a few months to work through my sampler pack of blades but I wound up with three different blades that work well for me.

I've been participating in Straight Razor May this month. My first few shaves I got a lot of razor burn, but my technique quickly got better and I can shave with only a bit of mild burn if any every day. I would say that learning to use a straight is harder than DE. I can shave reliably now with just a nick or two and not much burn but I still get closer shaves with less irritation with my DE. I'm sure after some more time my technique with the straight will improve but I definitely feel like a straight requires a higher degree of skill to use well. That takes longer to learn.

I'd recommend you stick with the DE. I think you will develop good technique faster and with less difficulty than if you went with a straight, and you won't also be trying to develop the right techniques for stropping and maintaining the blade. The EJ is a fairly mild razor so is a good model to stick with for now. As you get better you may want to try something more aggressive to get a closer shave with fewer passes but learn your basics on the EJ forst. As others have already said, good prep is key as is a good aftershave. I like Nivea Sensitive balm. It's cheap, readliy available, and works well.

Get a sampler pack of blades. My EJ came with Derbys and I liked them at first but now I find they irritate me. Also, while they are much loved around here Feathers are not for me, irritation again. I find my best results are with Astra SPs, Israeli Personna Reds, or Gillette 7 O'Clock Sharp Edge (yellow). Try a few blades and find one that works well for you.

Remember, no pressure. The absolute lightest of touches is key to both DE and straight technique. If you find yourself getting irritation, back off a little, take a day or two without shaving to heal if you can. When you go back, don't necessarily go for 3 pass or BBS. Live with a one or two pass SAS or DFS. A shave that lets you practice again tomorrow is better than one that doesn't.

Lastly, read read read. Here and other forums. Nothing I've said above can't be found elsewhere in this forum. The more you know the better you'll get.

Good luck!

Scott

 

[FoxconnWorker]

Alright, cheers for all the replies.


As money is tight currently, I'm not going to spring for the honing stone that I'd need to get my straight razor working.

Instead I'm going to take the advice several people here gave: reduce passes & pressure.

Up until now, I would do first pass with grain, second pass side-to-side and a third pass against the grain.
Doing only two passes, I guess it would be best to go with the grain first pass and against the grain second pass, yeah?

Btw, I'm using the Feather blades from Japan. I tried a sampler pack of blades. I went back to the Feather ones immediately.
I use cream from "Tailor Of Old Bond Street". I tried their shaving soap. I just can't get a decent lather from that one. Also, it goes all 'dry' on me. Starts to flake and get 'powdery' short after having been applied to face.
So, I just stick to the cream, which seems OK. Just wish there was a cheaper alternative. I go through a tub of this cream pretty quickly.

 

[Ducati Scotty]

For a two pass shave skip ATG, it can be a source of irritation, especially if you haven't reduced your beard enough first. Just do WTG & XTG for now.

TOBS is great cream, I just got some and I love it. Though like you said, it seems to go fast. Proraso is also good, cheaper, and lasts a long time. It sounds like the lather you made from the soap was a little dry. If you want to give it another go, just mix in a little more water near the end.

Scott

 

[celestino]

i would also reiterate what the others have said with regards to less pressure.
i was having similar issues with irritation as i was trying to get a close shave because i have dark and coarse hair and i needed to apply some pressure. However, i realized that i needed to perfect my technique and i eventually got there along with finding the perfect razor, the Weber DLC, and the proper blades, Super Iridiums and Perma Sharp Supers.
When you have the money, you may want to consider a different razor and blades to see what happens. i also found with proper blade buffing along with my aforementioned gear, that i have had some great results. Of course, never BBS because of my very coarse hair, but very, very nice shaves.
Possibly, one of the most important things to get is some unrefined shea butter for post-shave as it may be the best moisturizer that you will find.
Good luck.

 

[FoxconnWorker]

Just do WTG & XTG for now.

XTG is what?
I'm not familiar with the local jargon here yet, sorry.


Thanks.

 

[lindyhop66]

I shave with DE, SE and mainly straights, western and traditional Japanese. I do feel the straights are gentler on the skin. And of the straights. wedges and traditional Japanese straights (wedge-like) are easier on the skin and give a closer faster shave.

But in all cases, as everyone says is to remember to use no pressure. I still have to remind myself daily of that fact. Be gentle with your face and the whiskers get trimmed better and closer with less passes. I would shoot for doing 2 passes and leaving it at that.

 

[buca3152]

I used shavette for 6 years and then de for 1 now straights only since October. No comparison with a hand honed vs machine blade. Not even close. When I used shavette I couldn't shave everyday, now I shave bbs everyday and my skin feels great. It takes a while to get there though. Nothing anybody can't handle though. If clean velvety skin is what you want after shaving, the straight is the way IMO.

 

[QuasPrimas]

XTG = Across The Grain.

I echo the sentiments about pressure. I'm a newb when it comes to DE shaving, but I've noticed that the quality of my shave increases proportionally as the pressure I apply decreases. Perhaps you might need to unlearn some bad habits. I have to remind myself every five seconds not to press. I've never used a feather blade, but the consensus here seems to be that because they're the sharpest blades to be had, they're also the most aggressive, and the most prone to skin irritation. Get a blade sampler pack and see if some of the other blades might strike a better compromise between cutting ability and smoothness to avoid tearing up your face. If you've been shaving DE for 3 years, it's possible your technique has improved since you last tried different blades, and the blades you didn't care for then might suit you better now.

It also sounds like your lather might be less than optimal, which will absolutely lead to more skin irritation, as there's less lubrication for the blade, and more abrasion of your skin. There are a number of highly regarded, downright cheap creams that you could look into, which might make your life much easier. Alternatively, I spent a few hours this last weekend just practicing my lather techniques -using a really worn out old brush and some Colonel Conk's (not known, it seems, for stellar performance under all circumstances) to see just how much thick, creamy lather I could make. Maybe the answer is to switch to a straight, but I'd start the search "closer to home," and take a look at technique first... men have been getting very very good shaves for more than a hundred years with a double-edged safety razor, and all skin types are included in that.

Good luck!