Straight razor - set up to last a lifetime (or maybe a long time).

[Pappa Piccolino]

Hi all.

I am thinking of moving up from safety to straight razors, and when and if I do, I would like to set myself up right, with tools, equipment etc., that means I will be able to maintain the razor myself for life, with no sending it away for extra maintenance, and obviously to enjoy fine shaves for the life of the razor. I was thinking as follows :

- good quality Dovo or Thiers-Issard 5/8 straight razor.
- set of 3 Shapton Glass Stones and holder (1000, 3000, 8000 grit)
- good quality canvas and leather strop, with Chromium Oxide paste

Will the above be enough for me to have great shaves for many decades and to maintain the razor myself ? What else, if anything, will be required ?

Thanks in advance.

 

[macintoshBR]

Yes it will, but I would get a 12000 grit instead of the 1000, because you need a finisher much more than a bevel setter. I don't have experience with Shapton stones, but they have a good reputation

You will get 100 different answers from the forum's pros. I am not one of them - I hone only for myself. I use lapping film and the only stones I have are natural ones (Coticules and Arkansas), but I am not great in using them. I prefer the shaves from lapping film (equivalent to synthethic stones) as they are more consistent (read fool-proof), in my opinion

My suggestion would also be to hold on getting stones from the start. Learn to shave and strop properly (at least 30 shaves), and limit the variables as much as possible. There is a steep learning curve and the worst thing you could do would be to put your brand new razor (make sure you get it shave ready) on a stone after a couple of frustrating shaves

 

[Tomo]

Congratulations on your decision to start straight razor shaving. With a little practice you will soon be getting the best shaves of your life.

If you swap the Crox for a natural finisher, the TI for a Ralf Aust, and add an Atoma lapping plate you will have my favourite setup. With a little skill, these simple tools will provide perfect shaves day-in day-out for years to come.

Of course lapping films and diamond pasted balsa will get you up and running for a fraction of the cost. A ‘Method’ set up like this is a cost effective and beginner friendly way to a killer edge. It is well worth your consideration. I started out this way and it was a great introduction into straight razors and honing with very clear and easy to follow instructions.

Good luck with which ever method you choose.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Start out with two razors, both shave ready, from a trustworthy seller whose shave ready edges are known in the community to be truly shave ready, not just internet shave ready. Do not compromise on this. Then, learn to shave. Don't buy ANY films or stones until you know how to shave. Figure on sending a razor out the first time one goes dull. Again, for honing, only use someone from in the community, not just someone who says he can do the job.

Once you are getting great shaves consistently, THEN think about what tools you want. I recommend lapping film and the pasted balsa progression. NOT just one balsa strop, but three. See Newbie Honing Compendium | Badger & Blade and read it end to end, along with all of the threads linked in that thread. It will take you several weeks because you will need to actually read and retain, not just scan and skim. If you don't do it right you will fail. If you do it right you will succeed on the first or second attempt, and create a much better than professional quality edge. You can use stones instead of film if you insist on spending more money, but I recommend a Shapton Kuromaku 320, Chosera 600. Chosera 1000 and Naniwa Superstones in 3k, 8k, and 12k and also the balsa progression. If you go with lapping film, use wet/dry sandpaper for your coarse work up to 1k or 2k, then film at 9u, 3u, and 1u grits along with the balsa progression.

The balsa progression, if and only if properly set up and used, IMHO can not be beat by any known stone or film alone. Can not. Apologies to anyone who does not want to hear that, but it is true. Except for this. Some guys just like to use a different method and that's okay. Some stones are fun to use. There is no denying that. Some guys do not want a sharp edge. That seems strange to me but it it obviously true. The balsa when properly set up and used gives the sharpest possible edge but it is still a comfortable shave. When NOT properly set up and used, it can suck. At least somewhat. And a good jnat in good hands will beat it easily. Also, the balsa as described will not make a dull razor sharp. It will make a sharp razor sharper. A LOT sharper. And it can keep it that way indefinitely. And do it cheaply with an easy to understand method. But one of the most important bits of instruction you can follow with the balsa is to don't even bother unless you already have a good 12k or 1u edge to start with. And so, the stones or film are still important.

Learn to shave FIRST, so you know a sharp edge when you try it, and a dull one, too. You can't evaluate an edge by shaving with it, until you know that your shave is on the money. Conversely you can't know that your shaving technique is good or bad until you know that the edge is up to the task, which is why you must start with a known shave ready edge created by skilled and known hands.

Sorry if this is not what you want to hear. I don't get paid to validate others' preconceived notions. I call it like I see it. If Shapton made a 200,000 grit stone, it still wouldn't be a match for the .1u diamond balsa.

Every possible question I believe is answered in the Newbie Honing Compendium linked above. BTW it's not JUST for newbies, either. All my razors are made sharp and kept that way using The Method. The reason is that it is simply unbeatable if you just want the best possible shaving edge.

 

[Aidah]

I'd echo Slash's comments to say to not worry about stones or honing your razor yourself from the onset. Just focus on learning to shave. Honing is it's own rabbit hole to go down, and you don't want to jump into both headfirst. Not to mention you can always acquire more stone and other honing equipment as you need it over time.

 

[Frank Shaves]

Not sure where you are located. Sounds like you can afford to buy a few new things.

My recommendation is you buy one new shave read razor from a reputable merchant. One excellent and popular choice is the Dovo Bismarck from Jarrod in the US at:

https://thesuperiorshave.com/

or Adam in the UK at:

Home - The Invisible Edge

The Invisible Edge - Buy quality shave ready straight razors (cut-throat razors) and shaving accessories with Worldwide shipping

www.theinvisibleedge.co.uk

Then get yourself one synthetic finishing stone like a Naniwa Super Stone 12000 or the Shapton, and a good quality lesser expensive strop for the simple reason that you are extremely likely to nick your first strop multiple times - just comes with the territory. And you just can't go wrong buying one of Tony Miller's strops at https://heirloomrazorstrop.com/. Just don't buy one of his more expensive strops for your first drive around the block.

This should be enough to keep you busy for a few weeks. If you then want to pursue an even sharper edge, go for diamond paste on balsa. And when you are ready to pick up a beater vintage razor on eBay or an inexpensive Gold Dollar to learn to set bevels/edges, you will want to complete your synthetic stone progression - 1000, 4000 and 8000 grit stones.

If you try to do everything in one giant swing, you are at risk of 1) your head exploding, and 2) ending up with gear that you don't want or don't use.

Regarding finishing stones, there are many different types to choose from. The advantage of starting with a popular synthetic finishing stone is many members will have the exact same stone and will be able to provide you with feedback and guidance.

Then you will be ready to buy and use lots and lots of more stuff in the future .

Welcome to world to of traditional straight shaving. And be patient. There are many learning curves.

 

[mr_houston]

You’re getting great advice here.

In theory, you could maintain a razor with a strop and a finishing stone like a 12,000 grit synthetic stone forever.

 

[Tomo]

All great advise. As you can see there are many different ways to approach this.

People are often put off of straight razors because of honing and sharpening. With all the conflicting advise I totally get that and I think that it’s a real shame. The truth is that it’s not rocket science and anyone with half a brain and a gentle tough can do it. The straight razors are designed with a built in angle guide on the spine. You lay them flat on the honing surface and move up the grit progression. It’s not that hard.

Yes there are a few tricks and a couple of pitfalls and of course you will get better the more you do it. But if you do your research and have the right tools you will pick it up fast. The other advantage of having the tools is that you can correct almost every mistake yourself. You loose momentum sending razors off all the time. I believe that honing is a part of straight razor shaving and you might as well learn both together.

I started about a year ago with a new production ‘shave ready’ razor. The factory edge sucked. I quickly got it up to scratch with Slash’s Method even though I had zero experience. The first try made it worse. The second try BINGO. My only regret was waiting five or so shaves to get the balsa ready as I waited for it to be delivered. The improvement was dramatic.

Everyone likes to rush off and buy a fancy new razor. My advise is to first get all of the maintenance tools in place and then get the razor. Even better if it comes shave ready. Then you are set up for whatever happens.

There are lots of threads about people struggling with different types of stones. Not any, that I have seen, about people who followed The Method exactly and couldn’t get a shaving edge. Make of that what you will. One method has lots of variables and conflicting advise, the other has very specific materials and instructions. Both will work but one is easier to learn.

 

[Tomo]

You’re getting great advice here.

In theory, you could maintain a razor with a strop and a finishing stone like a 12,000 grit synthetic stone forever.

True. If you never damage the edge by making a mistake on the 12000 grit stone...

The lower grits don’t get used much but there are times that you may need them. Particularly when starting out.

 

[ajduplessis]

@Pappa Piccolino Get yourself one finisher and lapping film. Maintain the edge on pasted balsa/leather and save yourself a lot $$$ and frustration. After that you are welcome to add equipment to your hearts content.

Get a Ralph Aust or Wacker and a shave ready vintage from a reputable shaver/honer here. Start planning which DE’s you are going to sell, they will become redundant soon...

 

[McBlade]

My advice is to add a Feather AC or a cheap copy to the list (plus Schick Proline blades). It can serve as a benchmark for a sharp edge while you learn to strop & hone your straights. If you're struggling with blunt razors and bad shaves this can remind you how good a naked blade can be.

I can't for the life of me set a bevel but, until I figure it out, I've got my AC SS copy. It shaves so well it will always be in rotation.

 

[Ssandstorms]

Bottom line, my advice would be to buy a razor shave ready or two (preferable if you can) to "test the water" and also learn to strop. Getting two allows you to keep one on reserve if and when your other blade becomes dull. I purchased two "ugly blades" from a B&B user and had them finished with two different edges. It allowed me to get a feel of what a sharp edge should feel like, and explore different types of edges. Something to consider.

If you buy an already shave-ready blade from a seller or from here, all you would technically need is a strop (linen and leather). Also, I personally wouldn't use CrOx. A strop's main purpose is for realigning and polishing, not sharpening. Whatever is the last "stone" to sharpen the blade will be how the edge feels. A CrOx strop will leave a CrOx edge.

As long as you keep good maintenance the edge should keep sharp for a solid 3-4 months or more without ever needing retouching. This of course varies between blades and also the personal preference of the user. As other's have said, Honing is its own rabbit hole. You can easily get away with NEVER honing a razor by using honing services. You can even find people on here that might do it for free



If you really don't want to spend any more money after the initial investment, then there are many routes you can take. I personally wouldn't want to shave off a 12k synthetic stone. I find the edge toothy and leaves more of a razorburn than a natural stone. While I can't speak for the feel of the method, there are many on here that praise it highly and you can follow Slash's posts for more info on that. All the "Naturals" have their fanbases, but a general consensus would push you towards Coticule or Thuringian whetstones (biased opinion here). I find both of these edges to be superior.

1000/3000/5000 stones are really for bevel setting and blade repair. You could easily live without these. In fact, I have only used my 1000 superstone once...

A 5000/8000 combo Norton stone and the finisher of your choice would be my stone recommendations for someone just looking to keep their razors sharp. Both of which would be a one time purchase for a single razor.


Lastly, Welcome to the dark side :3

We all were new to this at one point or another

 

[Pappa Piccolino]

Thanks gents. I really appreciate the time and knowledge shared by members on here. Some very detailed answers in this thread.

Happy New Year to all.

 

[ceriano]

Start out with two razors, both shave ready, from a trustworthy seller whose shave ready edges are known in the community to be truly shave ready, not just internet shave ready. Do not compromise on this. Then, learn to shave. Don't buy ANY films or stones until you know how to shave. Figure on sending a razor out the first time one goes dull. Again, for honing, only use someone from in the community, not just someone who says he can do the job.

Once you are getting great shaves consistently, THEN think about what tools you want. I recommend lapping film and the pasted balsa progression. NOT just one balsa strop, but three. See Newbie Honing Compendium | Badger & Blade and read it end to end, along with all of the threads linked in that thread. It will take you several weeks because you will need to actually read and retain, not just scan and skim. If you don't do it right you will fail. If you do it right you will succeed on the first or second attempt, and create a much better than professional quality edge. You can use stones instead of film if you insist on spending more money, but I recommend a Shapton Kuromaku 320, Chosera 600. Chosera 1000 and Naniwa Superstones in 3k, 8k, and 12k and also the balsa progression. If you go with lapping film, use wet/dry sandpaper for your coarse work up to 1k or 2k, then film at 9u, 3u, and 1u grits along with the balsa progression.

The balsa progression, if and only if properly set up and used, IMHO can not be beat by any known stone or film alone. Can not. Apologies to anyone who does not want to hear that, but it is true. Except for this. Some guys just like to use a different method and that's okay. Some stones are fun to use. There is no denying that. Some guys do not want a sharp edge. That seems strange to me but it it obviously true. The balsa when properly set up and used gives the sharpest possible edge but it is still a comfortable shave. When NOT properly set up and used, it can suck. At least somewhat. And a good jnat in good hands will beat it easily. Also, the balsa as described will not make a dull razor sharp. It will make a sharp razor sharper. A LOT sharper. And it can keep it that way indefinitely. And do it cheaply with an easy to understand method. But one of the most important bits of instruction you can follow with the balsa is to don't even bother unless you already have a good 12k or 1u edge to start with. And so, the stones or film are still important.

Learn to shave FIRST, so you know a sharp edge when you try it, and a dull one, too. You can't evaluate an edge by shaving with it, until you know that your shave is on the money. Conversely you can't know that your shaving technique is good or bad until you know that the edge is up to the task, which is why you must start with a known shave ready edge created by skilled and known hands.

Sorry if this is not what you want to hear. I don't get paid to validate others' preconceived notions. I call it like I see it. If Shapton made a 200,000 grit stone, it still wouldn't be a match for the .1u diamond balsa.

Every possible question I believe is answered in the Newbie Honing Compendium linked above. BTW it's not JUST for newbies, either. All my razors are made sharp and kept that way using The Method. The reason is that it is simply unbeatable if you just want the best possible shaving edge.

Where can I find more information on Balsa progression?

 

[haggis]

There is an epic thread on that very topic. Within it @rbscebu did the kindness of summarizing some learnings from the thread. I used that (PDF) summary to make and use my set. I've linked the post but you will get the advice to read the whole thread and it's undoubtedly worth it.

How To Use a Pasted Balsa Strop

lol camo

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[Slash McCoy]

Where can I find more information on Balsa progression?

Look in the link that I already gave you. Read it beginning to end. Everything is in there, within the obvious sub-threads.

 

[Sukeroku]

Based on previous poster's recommendations, as well as my own experience, I cannot recommend a Ralf Aust razor highly enough. Fifteen months ago, I bought a Ralf Aust 6/8" roundpoint with horn scales (though some recommend a 5/8" for beginners). The razor arrived truly shave-ready and I got a good dozen of shaves in before it needed a tune-up. I went with the lapping films and found it to be extremely economical and user friendly. I was never really concerned with ruining the razor with the films. I then moved up to the diamond pasted balsa strops and discovered a whole new world of sharpness. This month, I bought my first stones, JNats and a 1k Chosera. You will be set for quite a while with a Ralf Aust, a decent leather strop, lapping film and a couple of balsa strops without breaking the bank. Enjoy the journey!

You never forget your first...