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Straight Razor Geeks Honing Knives

I am a land surveyor and use machetes and brush hooks daily. Nothing beats a big flat bastard file. You don't want a super fine edge on a brush cutting tool, it will be ruined in a minute of use. If I'm in a hurry I will touch them up on a belt sander.

I actually use a bastard file on my old cheap flimsy one just though this being thicker and heavier it could hold a little more edge. It is almost like a machete/hatchet.
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
You know Tom, that machete would look super good polished out with a kasumi sword finish....

Cheers, Steve
 
You know Tom, that machete would look super good polished out with a kasumi sword finish....

Cheers, Steve

Steve,

It would and a good piece to practice on too. I was also thinking of giving it a coat of Renaissance wax so it won't rust so easily.
 
I am a land surveyor and use machetes and brush hooks daily. Nothing beats a big flat bastard file. You don't want a super fine edge on a brush cutting tool, it will be ruined in a minute of use. If I'm in a hurry I will touch them up on a belt sander.

Have to disagree on that one - as long as your machete is made from decent steel and hardened properly. I have been using mine with very fine convexed edges for many years now and it holds up easily for a full season of trimming around 2 acres of bushes and tree limbs with no damage other than normal dulling. I resharpen every season but really I don't need to. This type of work is ideal for a fine edge - no sawing motion, basically just a straight through push cut. The finer the edge the better for that kind of cutting. May be different if you're slamming the edge into dirt or other abuse, but I avoid that. Have you ever actually tried a fine edge?
 
Have to disagree on that one - as long as your machete is made from decent steel and hardened properly. I have been using mine with very fine convexed edges for many years now and it holds up easily for a full season of trimming around 2 acres of bushes and tree limbs with no damage other than normal dulling. I resharpen every season but really I don't need to. This type of work is ideal for a fine edge - no sawing motion, basically just a straight through push cut. The finer the edge the better for that kind of cutting. May be different if you're slamming the edge into dirt or other abuse, but I avoid that. Have you ever actually tried a fine edge?

We just have to agree to disagree. I have tried every edge in the book. In the last two weeks I have opened sight lines around 2 20 acre parcels and one 6 acre tract. I will cut more brush, limbs and trees in a week than most people will in their lives. Fine edge on stones is gone in an hour, filed edge lasts all day. YMMV
 
Guess so, mine last forever, many many hours of trimming every year. Probably a difference in steel/heat treat or in what we're cutting.
 

IMightBeWrong

Loves a smelly brush
Sharpening knives is what eventually led me to straight razors. I started with a DE first on someone's recommendation in order to get used to using less pressure and building lather first. Then I got my first straight a few years ago and just stuck with a Norton combo and CrOx balsa.

Working with a straight has also changed how I think about knife sharpening, something I started doing about 6-7 years ago on my own beginning with a Spydeco sharpmaker and eventually learning to use the rods freehand. Later I started honing on water stones and finishing on newsprint, then later on compound leather from Stropman which helped me really get my knives where I like them. I'm one of those guys that loves the slightly convexed edges coming from a freehand edge and leather loaded with abrasives. Makes my knives cut very smooth!
 
I'll bump this nice thread.
 

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I posted this in the what did you hone on today thread, but I'll post this here aswell.
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A hand forged gyuto in stainless claded blue steel finished on a okudo suita.
The bevel face was uneven and had some spots sticking out more than I like, so I gave it some hate on my atoma 400 until it was more even.
Then onto ha no kuromaku 1k, then to my ohira finishing stone with a chu nagura slurry to make quick work of the 1k scratches, atoma 400 slurry on the same stone for the rest of the work.
Lastly finishing work on my okudo suita with atoma 1200 slurry. Then some hand stropping.
This edge tree tops silently when hovering it over my arm. Could improve some more on it by hollowing out the bevel face with some sandpaper/small nagura stones.
Abit overkill perhaps, but I like to baby this knife abit.
 
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