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Straight Razor Acquisition Thread

I only wish that I had read about the benefits of a hard backing/fixed media before I had worked on the etching. Hopefully, there will be a next time.
Hang on. I looked at the photos again. Are the letters the same level as the blade and the block is recessed?

If it is, it could black up nicely, but have to even more careful during the wipe up. It’s not a damage thing, but it’ll undo what you’re trying to do if not careful.


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By marker, do you mean a Sharpie? Should I wipe the excess with a dry cotton cloth?

If I try the marker, I will first try a small area.
Yes sharpie type marker. Wipe with a dry cloth first. Then if there’s some tenacious stuff, use some alcohol. Alcohol totally remove permanent marker. Good to know if your kids get ahold of your pens.

Depending on your level of “bling” you want you, you can do a similar thing using a acrylic paint and water. The trickier thing is, being a thicker fluid the wipe up is a little more sensitive.


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Just a quickie for fun….







This was quick and dirty and A little tricky. The circle is higher than the letter so a simple “planing” won’t work unless I sand the ring down to the same level. The letters are also really tiny around the edge. A clipped/sharpened Q tip would work well.

Being cast aluminum is has a lot of imperfections as well. The light and blacking pick it up.

Make sure you ink is waterproof too…

I prefer ink because it’s thin, getting into grooves better, doesn’t raise the surface much, and cleans up easily…even when fully cured.

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Ice-Man

Moderator Emeritus
@Frank Shaves

Sometimes we have to take losses with etchings, it comes down to save the etching or save the blade. In the ideal world, it would be both but sadly we don't have that ideal item. Rust has to be stopped at any cost I have had to make that choice loads of time's restoring straights, one thing I was told when I first started was pretty don't shave but the blade does.

It's still a beautiful straight with or without the etching you had to remove rust to save the blade, and that my friend is priceless in its own right. The active rust has gone and you can still see the faint etching, you could protect the lettering with clear nail polish and tape the rest up, and use gun bluing over the dark band then clean the nail polish off the lettering and that would be highlighted again.

But you still have a fantastic razor at the end whatever you do.
 
I could not agree more, @Ice-Man! You really get to know a razor when you do this sort of work - every square millimeter. The one bit of advice I would give to others doing this is that when you reach one of those tough decision points consider taking a short break to think through your options - like taking a walk/watching a little TV - time for your subconscious to work the problem.
 

Ice-Man

Moderator Emeritus
I could not agree more, @Ice-Man! You really get to know a razor when you do this sort of work - every square millimeter. The one bit of advice I would give to others doing this is that when you reach one of those tough decision points consider taking a short break to think through your options - like taking a walk/watching a little TV - time for your subconscious to work the problem.
Oh yes without a doubt, that so-called walk or whatever gives you time to focus on what you are doing. And ponder on ideas to help you along the way, some you come to a dead-end but others you see the light on what needs doing. But the best thing is to ask on here as Badger & Blades members have a wealth of knowledge and willing to pass it on, I know I have been in this position and done the same and the results have turned out beautiful.
 
Picked up these two razors from a local add today.

w&b fine India steel and a Fredrick Reynolds

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Needs a little cleaning up. Not sure what I should use to clean the face without getting rid of the etching.
That’s really tough. Even if you don’t wear it down, I’m not sure there can be enough contrast to bring it out again.

I have some stuff I bought at a car show. It’s called Wenol. I takes almost no pressure and very little product. The demo was a US quarter from my pocket. He put about a pea sized drop on it and smeared it around with his finger, nothing serious, just spreading it. Let it sit for a few minutes, then rubbed it out on a cotton towel with little more pressure than an angry mouse click. I tried the same thing…sparkly coins.

I bought a large can of it after my tube ran out. I’ve used to for aluminum trim on my VW camper and countless VW hubcaps I sold.

I’m not sure what it’s do on a fine chem etch like that though….I can say I haven’t damaged anything I’ve polished with it.


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That’s really tough. Even if you don’t wear it down, I’m not sure there can be enough contrast to bring it out again.

I have some stuff I bought at a car show. It’s called Wenol. I takes almost no pressure and very little product. The demo was a US quarter from my pocket. He put about a pea sized drop on it and smeared it around with his finger, nothing serious, just spreading it. Let it sit for a few minutes, then rubbed it out on a cotton towel with little more pressure than an angry mouse click. I tried the same thing…sparkly coins.

I bought a large can of it after my tube ran out. I’ve used to for aluminum trim on my VW camper and countless VW hubcaps I sold.

I’m not sure what it’s do on a fine chem etch like that though….I can say I haven’t damaged anything I’ve polished with it.


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I have glitz but I’m sure it’ll wipe it off. Also have the renaissance wax polish that I might spot test on the side.
 
I just got this in from Ertan Suer today. His razors are beautiful and per his website this is what he is calling a NOS Le Grelot as it was ground from an original Le Grelot blank from 1950-1970. His razors are a thing of beauty and from my first impression, I think that this one will be one of my favorites. Everything about it screams of quality. 6/8" half-hollow grind.

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Barn sale bargains, its a gamble, but I’ve collected some interesting razors this way. I’m happy to work on them and I enjoy honing, learning and bringing things back into use. The Friudor caught my eye, I knew it had visible random grind marks on the tang, but I can work with that. Joseph Elliot & Sons is a keeper and surprised to find a Wade and Butcher. The makers mark has been mostly removed but read with the loupe it’s the real deal, so that’s a first for me. Ten razors in this lot, these 3 will get my immediate attention, 4 others are worthy of effort and 3 left to salvage but unusable. 7FA5C905-0302-443A-B14C-FCB6B19B75FF.jpeg
 
Barn sale bargains, its a gamble, but I’ve collected some interesting razors this way. I’m happy to work on them and I enjoy honing, learning and bringing things back into use. The Friudor caught my eye, I knew it had visible random grind marks on the tang, but I can work with that. Joseph Elliot & Sons is a keeper and surprised to find a Wade and Butcher. The makers mark has been mostly removed but read with the loupe it’s the real deal, so that’s a first for me. Ten razors in this lot, these 3 will get my immediate attention, 4 others are worthy of effort and 3 left to salvage but unusable.
Nice finds, have you restored many razors so far?
 
Nice finds, have you restored many razors so far?
I’ll be truthful, I get razors up and running. I‘ll clean them up, try and take care of any glaring deficiencies, tighten pins and hone them up to my specs. There are some true artists and skilled restorers here and I respect what they do. I’m not that guy. Ive resurrected about 20 or so and use them all. Hidden gems, ugly ducklings and quirky suit me just fine.
 
I’ll be truthful, I get razors up and running. I‘ll clean them up, try and take care of any glaring deficiencies, tighten pins and hone them up to my specs. There are some true artists and skilled restorers here and I respect what they do. I’m not that guy. Ive resurrected about 20 or so and use them all. Hidden gems, ugly ducklings and quirky suit me just fine.
Sounds like you are doing well!
 
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