Looking at getting a new straight edge (left my old one when moving). Right now I am looking at the one from sharpening supplies for 24. Not sure if there were any reviews on it or better suggestions, thanks.
Straight edge suggestions
- Thread starter Christian1212
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rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
I notice that it is only accurate to within 0.001". That's about 40μm, the equivalent of about 400 grit (US). Probably ok for knives but I would have thought you would want better accuracy for honing SRs.
Straight edge? Like a metal ruler?
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- #4
Yes for checking stone flatness, thanks.
What do you use?
I have this one, and it works well for me. I’ve never had any issues with it.
I’ve had a Starrertt for years and have zero complaints. They’re not cheap but it’s something you can use for a lifetime and then hand down to your kids. You can sometimes find them used at flea markets or also check eBay
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- #8
Not wanting Starrett just because I'll be in germany for the next couple of years. If I could get something sub 40 and worth using I would pull the trigger.
Not that I need one but was definitely nice having one laying around. Will probably end up with the Starrett when I am back Stateside.
Not that I need one but was definitely nice having one laying around. Will probably end up with the Starrett when I am back Stateside.
The edge of an Atoma is usually straight enough for me.
I use a sacrificial (cheap) straight edge that I check against a good straight edge. Moving a measuring tool around on an abrasive surface is not very good shop practice.
This is what I do as well.
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
I don't use a straight edge. You can only lap as flat as your lapping medium. That is where a good well support diamond plate or polished granite slab with W&D comes in. A marker (Sharpie) pen of pencil is then your friend. Marker pen on black Ark and pencil on synthetic whetstones.
+4 on the Atoma
I've never fully trusted pencil grids. They can get you in the ballpark but I like to at least do a visual test with a straightedge and a bright light. Rocks don't always abrade evenly, even synths, and the amount of pressure you use can change things too, even if your lapping medium is true. I'm not going for dead flat, just flat enough.
All this is a surprise to me... I just never knew I needed a stone flat within .001 inch..
Who'd a thunk it?
Who'd a thunk it?
Carefully measured by holding it up to the light and eyeballing it.
I don't know if that was aimed at me but I'm not saying it has to be within .001" per foot...just that when I've checked stones that passed the grid test they weren't all that flat even to the eyeball test. Straightedge to the light across a few axes is good enough for me. Not like I'm pulling out a feeler gauge or something. I don't even do that with my synths, past the initial lapping. Just lap till it starts to stick, rinse and hone. They don't stay all that flat for long anyway.
No, not at you.
I agree that the grid test is not 100% conclusive, but it is a good start. I'll usually do that, plus check it with the edge of whatever metal ruler happens to be closest in my workshop. Between those two things I've never felt the need for a professionally machined straight edge, with tolerances of however many microns.
I use a vintage combination square. One of those sliding adjustable ones with a bubble, it's probably a Stanley or Miller Falls.
It's plenty straight enough for me.
It's plenty straight enough for me.
