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Stopping pitting/rust

Claudel Xerxes

Staff member
I have a Savage Arms Springfield Model 947E 12ga that was the first gun my dad bought when he returned from Vietnam. As far as I know, it's nothing special. I remember my dad telling me that he paid $5 for it in the early '70s. Anyway, it's been in the early stages of pitting for the past couple of years. About a year ago, when I first noticed the rust starting to form, I cleaned it off with Hoppe's No. 9, oiled it, and thought that it was good. I took it out of the safe a few days ago and the rust is returning.

What would be the best course of action to clean it? Would WD40 do the trick, and if so, with that interfere with gun oil in anyway? Do I need to physically scrub the rust off? Etc.. I would be doing it strictly for the sentimental value of keeping it, so I have no interest in spending the money to take it somewhere to have it professionally cleaned and refurbished.

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Claudel Xerxes

Staff member
0000 steel wool, oil, and a light touch will take it off and make it look better. Of course, it won't fix pits.

I've accepted the pits. They're not deep, but it's noticeable. The gun has plenty of blemishes, but I just want to keep it maintained. I should have some 0000 steel wool sitting around, but I'll have to figure out where I last stored it. Lol
 
Apply some oil and rub the rust spots with the shank end of a drill bit, Get some RIG which stands for rust inhibiting grease and apply a thin film.
 
I thought about 0000 steel wool but I would be worried that it would polish the metal some and you would either have to polish the whole thing then or live with the variation.
I would maybe try a scotch brite pad with oil or WD or even a soft scrub (other side of a kitchen sponge) with the same oil. Not the really coarse kind but almost like a rough cloth.
 
I have used brass brushes, bronze wool, and steel wool with oil. In all cases a light touch is called for. I second the recommendation for RIG. I use it on all of my guns. I live on an island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean and the salt air can dissolve metal.
 

OkieStubble

Dirty Donuts are so Good.
0000 steel wool, oil, and a light touch will take it off and make it look better. Of course, it won't fix pits.


Yep, bronze wool. Only thing I would change other then oil, is a CLP. Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative instead. The silicone in it will preserve the steel.
 
Of course, you gotta be sure automotive wax actually is "wax" and not a polish. Anyway, a fantastic one is Collinite 845.

Another good option, is Johnson paste wax for wood. It comes in a yellow can. Most hardware/home improvement stores have it.

I keep both of the above around. Then there's always Renaissance wax.
 
Of course, you gotta be sure automotive wax actually is "wax" and not a polish. Anyway, a fantastic one is Collinite 845.

Another good option, is Johnson paste wax for wood. It comes in a yellow can. Most hardware/home improvement stores have it.

I keep both of the above around. Then there's always Renaissance wax.
Great call. Johnson Paste wax is how I finish my woodworking projects. I use it on all my stocks. It helps if you have a shoe brush. Brush fast with the grain and it’ll melt the wax and give it the perfect sheen.
 
I have never heard of Bronze wool so was just reading up.
Can't seem to find 0000, do they make it that fine?
I've used 0000 steel wool in the glass industry to clean glass panels and for wood finishes.
 

nikonNUT

The "Peter Hathaway Capstick" of small game
NO WD-40! It means Water Displacing but after a while it likes water ALOT! I would suggest getting a Sentinel Solutions Tuff Cloth and wiping it down. I have had great luck with that stuff!
 
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