Stone Maintenance Question

[JoeScho]

Got a question on with the stone flattening plate. It seems that mine just isn't doing as much as I think it should. It feels and acts like its either clogged (which I have ran it under water and used a scotch Brite on it) or its gotten smooth or something.

Is there a way to freshen it or make it more usable? Or is it me? It seems to eventually work, but I've got what I'm almost sure are flat stones, yet takes a bit of effort to even remove steel off of it from previous honing.

thanks

 

[J B Addis]

Need more info. What kind of stone flattening device is it? Who made it? What are you trying to flatten with it?

 

[JoeScho]

Need more info. What kind of stone flattening device is it? Who made it? What are you trying to flatten with it?

its a Norton flattening stone with diagonal grooves. Tonight I was honing a new Henckles straight I bought on the Norton 4000, 8000, then on a Naniwa 12000. Usually after I finish, I use the flattening stone to clean them for the next time.

 

[Legion]

its a Norton flattening stone with diagonal grooves. Tonight I was honing a new Henckles straight I bought on the Norton 4000, 8000, then on a Naniwa 12000. Usually after I finish, I use the flattening stone to clean them for the next time.

I’ve never used one, but those Norton flattening stones are not so highly regarded. Most of us use diamond plates.

Are you lapping the stones under running water, or just rinsing at the end?

 

[J B Addis]

its a Norton flattening stone with diagonal grooves. Tonight I was honing a new Henckles straight I bought on the Norton 4000, 8000, then on a Naniwa 12000. Usually after I finish, I use the flattening stone to clean them for the next time.

I haven't used that type so I can't say for sure, but it may be that the abrasive on the surface has gotten dull, which would mean you would need to lap your lapping plate somehow to expose fresh grains. Sandpaper on a flat surface should do it. Consider just getting a diamond plate and saving yourself some trouble through.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Flattening stone is likely clogged. Lap your stones under water or under running water.

How are you determining flatness? (I've got what I'm almost sure are flat stones)

You can refresh the Flattening Stone with a sheet of 220 under running water.

If you do not have a Diamond stone, you can flatten the stones with a sheet of 220 and maintain with the flattening stone. A Diamond plate is much easier for lapping and maintenance.

When honing, use a squirt bottle and plastic tray, in place of a spray bottle to keep the stone well flooded and loading up as much.

 

[Steve56]

The usual criticism of these Norton lapping stones is that they are far too coarse and aggressive.

If yours is not aggressive, I’d recommend lapping it, with either a coarse diamond plate or something like coarse W/D sandpaper on plate glass.

Alternatively, a coarse rubbing stone like a Naniwa ‘Brown Biscuit’ (~400 grit) will work.

 

[Legion]

When I was using water stones like nortons I lapped them first with WD paper on glass, and was then able to keep them flat and refreshed by just rubbing them together under running water for a couple of minutes after every use. They stayed flat and clean until I finally pensioned them off.

 

[JoeScho]

I've had those stones for a while . Maybe I can use a diamond plate to fix it, plus use the diamond plate as a flattener. Can someone recommend one?

thank you all for your replies and help

 

[Toro Blanco]

For your set up I would recommend the Atoma 400. Best plate for performance and price hands down.

If you are on a budget chefknivestogo has a lookalike that for the money is very good alternative. Then there is another similar one that has a diamond pattern on it(i forgot the name) that is dual sided for 30 bucks that is not that bad. I believe you can find that one on Aliexpress if I am not mistaken.

DMT is good but the Atoma IMHO is way better for the money.

 

[Legion]

I've had those stones for a while . Maybe I can use a diamond plate to fix it, plus use the diamond plate as a flattener. Can someone recommend one?

thank you all for your replies and help

Get yourself an Atoma 400, and just give away the Norton lapping stone. You wont need to fix or use it again once you have the Atoma. And I'm not sure how hard that Norton lapping thing is, but it might wear out the diamonds on the plate.

 

[JoeScho]

Get yourself an Atoma 400, and just give away the Norton lapping stone. You wont need to fix or use it again once you have the Atoma. And I'm not sure how hard that Norton lapping thing is, but it might wear out the diamonds on the plate.

I'm nowhere in the area of expert. As a matter of fact I'm a novice, but I remember when I got it , it looked like a piece of cinder block to me.

thank you for the info.

 

[JoeScho]

For your set up I would recommend the Atoma 400. Best plate for performance and price hands down.

If you are on a budget chefknivestogo has a lookalike that for the money is very good alternative. Then there is another similar one that has a diamond pattern on it(i forgot the name) that is dual sided for 30 bucks that is not that bad. I believe you can find that one on Aliexpress if I am not mistaken.

DMT is good but the Atoma IMHO is way better for the money.

What do you use for honing?

 

[Toro Blanco]

I'm a self described rock hound. I started with japanese synthetics almost 20 years ago on knives.
These past 8-9 years I have transitioned to naturals but still use 500 and 1000 japanese synthetic for chips and bevel setting.
My favarite stones are Jnats and Arks, but I have a good collection of Thuris, Coticules, and French stones. I have a few others and that is why I call myself a rock hound. I have my favorites but if the stone does a good job I find a use for it.

I have a good understanding of what is needed for many different types of stones and try to help others as others helped me when I first started honing my own edges. Just paying it forward.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

The Norton 4/8k is just fine, you can get a great finish from a 12k Super Stone. The 12k has a tendency to load up, especially if not enough water is use and the swarf on the stone can chip a finished edge.

Remove all the 8k stria with the 12k, then lap all the swarf off the 12k and do your finish laps on a clean stone, for a pristine edge. Strop on Chrome Oxide or .50um CBN for a fine shaving edge. It really is all you need.

You can, once you master honing on synthetics go from the 12k to a Jnat or Ark finish for a bit smoother and keener shaving edge. Most slates are in the 6k’ish range, so you are going backwards.

Google, (My Second Try at Honing). It is a photo tutorial with great, clear photos of a new honer taking an eBay beater to a super shaver. Just make your bevels and edges match his micrographs at each stone in the progression and you will master honing with synthetics.

 

[Mitzie]

The 12k has a tendency to load up, especially if not enough water is use and the swarf on the stone can chip a finished edge.

Would you advise edge leading strokes on these higher grit stones or edge trailing stropping strokes for more quicker and effective honing?

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

The trick is a clean, swarf free stone.

I do use half lap strokes, a la Alex Gilmore’s Ax method. I keep the razor on the stone for the first laps to set a bevel or remove previous stria, alternating edge leading and trailing. 20,10,5,2,1.

Then like Alex finish each stone with edge leading half laps only. In sets of 10,5,2, and 1.

I refine with edge leading, X strokes and only do edge trailing strokes for the final 2-3 laps with super lite pressure, after having stropped on linen and leather.

Too many edge trailing strokes can make a burr, but a few can finish an edge nicely. Stropping between stones or just before finish laps can refine an edge and remove any light flashing/burr.

Stropping on flax linen between stones and prior to finish laps can be a game changer, as can jointing before finish laps.

 

[cotedupy]

When I was using water stones like nortons I lapped them first with WD paper on glass, and was then able to keep them flat and refreshed by just rubbing them together under running water for a couple of minutes after every use. They stayed flat and clean until I finally pensioned them off.

I had the most peculiar experience doing this the other day. I lapped an SG500 flat using coarse WnD, and afterwards it simply didn’t cut. Not even a little bit.

My only guess is that the sandpaper I was using happened to a be a perfect match for the hardness of the stone’s abrasive and binder. So actually all I was doing by the end was burnishing the surface.

It was somewhat surreal on a very fast stone like the SG500, having coming straight off 80 grit WnD.

 

[Steve56]

Try an Atoma plate or the Shapton DGLP.

Chef’s Knives to Go has the DGLP as cheap as I’ve seen it, and for lapping stones it’s difficult to beat though it is pricey even at discount.

It’s oversized, never loads or clogs because of the pattern, but you can‘t use it on blades because of the pattern.

 

[JoeScho]

I bought a few eBay beaters myself for this purpose. But the spines are kind of shot on them and may be an issue