This is what I have been finding too. Just making this thread easier for others to find.
stainless vs carbon steel straight razors
- Thread starter edwardtan
- Start date
This is what I have been finding too. Just making this thread easier for others to find.
A thing to remember, there are dozens of "stainless steels" out there, each with their own sharping and edge retention qualities.
Classic 8 year old thread...
Using a knife analogy, you can get a keener edge on a carbon steel blade but the stainless steel blade is easier for maintenance. I think the stainless steel razor wins hands down unless you can put in that extra care for the carbon steel razor.
True, yet generally speaking carbon steel is considered better for a straight razor as far as getting it truly sharp. The stainless steel I'm working with is magnetic and to the best of my knowledge is from Germany but shaped or worked on in Pakistan. That is as much as I know about it, there are several that are magnetic but it would be in that group.
The only extra maintenance I know of is to keep it from rusting (keep it dry or oiled). I often clean mine with rubbing alcohol and if going to ship or store, it gets oiled. Not to mention that stainless is not impervious to rusting but only more resistant to rust.
An old one but good one and worth keeping alive from time to time.
Agreed
I assume they are all magnetic as they contain about 90% steel.
I assumed it was dry and wipe over with mineral oil; it's what I do with my knives. Many DE users just let the razor and blade air dry after use. Good to know there is an alternative with rubbing alcohol.
My understanding is that some stainless steel is not magnetic or not very magnetic.
You are quite correct. Austenitic stainless steel is not magnetic but it cannot be hardened and tempered either. No good for knives or straight razors.
I would tend to agree and that is one reason I checked to see if my razor was magnetic. I can't say I know just how hard it can get because it is my understanding it can be made harder by working with it but have no idea just how hard or soft it would be after that. Checking to see if it was magnetic is only test I knew I could do to check the stainless steel.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
"Need" is a funny word.
You could start out with one razor and a hanging strop, but eventually the razor would get dull. A strop does not hone a razor. It merely burnishes the bevel and aligns/smooths the edge a bit. If you send it out for honing, you are out of action for a while. That is why startting with two razors is a good idea.
There are many ways to maintain your edge yourself. The barber hone will work, though it actually takes a surprisingly high degree of skill to get the absolute best results from it. For an edge that will just shave and not impress, not so much skill needed. Just rub razor on rock with water or lather and bobs yer uncle. A coticule of respectable size can be a bit pricey so most guys end up getting a medium sized bout (irregularly shaped piece, a left over bit from cutting out fancy rectangular stones.) and while the full power of the coti is only unleashed when you master progressive slurried honing methods such as dilucot, you can also simply use it with just clear water, as a finisher to retouch an edge. But for that much money you can get a nice big 12k Naniwa, which is a much easier stone with fantastic feedback, and have enough $ left over to buy a new brush or razor or three.
Cheapest method for edge maintenance is probably lapping film. For just maintenance or retouching, all you needd is one grit, 1u, or one micron. A sheet makes three pieces. Each piece is good for a dozen, maybe more, sessions. Results are extremely consistent and you should be getting professional or better quality edges right out the gate. See the Lapping Film thread. Read at least the first 40 pages.
My own method for maintaining my edges in scary sharp condition is by use of the pasted balsa strop. Click the link. Don't even think that you can take shortcuts, or freestyle, or substitute, when using this method. You won't be impressed. Done correctly, this method will keep your razors sharp forever.
All I have touched on so far is maintenance of a razor that came to you already shave ready sharp. When you hone from scratch, things get much more involved. So make sure your first razors come to you absolutely shave ready, made so and verified by trusted vendors.
For more info on stropping or honing, visit the relevant forums.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Stainless or carbon. Not really all that much difference. Stainless WILL rust, just not as quickly. Some cutlery stainless IS magnetic, to varying degrees. Some stainless IS harder, but no biggie. It still hones, and the difference is to me, minor. I think carbon steel is of finer grain and can be coaxed into a slightly smoother edge, but this is a generalization only. I say don't worry about whether a razor is stainless or not, if it is of a respected brand. Just get it and do it. Take care of it. Don't assume it won't rust just because it says stainless.
I don't think it really makes any difference in performance, and if you keep your razor clean and dry you won't have any problems with rust. The difference in honing requirements is minimal.
A good stainless razor should be made out of AISI 420 or 440C steel. These grades are magnetic & hardenable knife grade martensitic stainless steels.
The problem is that many unscrupulous makers refer to grades as stainless steel or 420 or 440C when they are nothing of the sort.
If you want a good SS razor, buy from a reputed manufacturer like Dovo.
For carbon steel, there are tens of manufacturers with good products.
The problem is that many unscrupulous makers refer to grades as stainless steel or 420 or 440C when they are nothing of the sort.
If you want a good SS razor, buy from a reputed manufacturer like Dovo.
For carbon steel, there are tens of manufacturers with good products.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
You don't use a jig or guide. The spine of the razor is the guide. The bevel angle of a straight razor typically is around 17 degrees or a bit less, though it can range between 14 and 20 degrees. It is determined by the ratio of the thickness of the spine to the distance from where the spine contacts the hone to the edge.
I read a few posts and decided to gung ho on my SS razor which was not getting shave ready no matter what I did.
So hit it on a 220 grit stone and took it from there. As per your advice did not try the gig.
I tried shaving with it. Nowhere near as good as the high carbon steel razors. My Solingen still gives the best shave.
The metal seems to be way harder though. i.e. stropping on leather even with compound seems to have very little effect.
I think Ill just give the SS razors a skip for now.
This is my 2nd or 3rd attempt to get this razor ready. In the past few years. I have a very bad memory. So it just lies around in the back of a drawer till I find it and get the bug to sharpen it again.
Had to put in a lot of work to get the spine straight.
I assume its the spine because the bewel I get changes along the length of the blade i.e. in some spots its perfect and in some there is hardly any bewel. I assume this means I have to work on the spine dropping its angle to get the bewel right across the balde. Need to figure out some tricks to do this. Cause at times I was tempted to take an angle grinder to it lol.
So hit it on a 220 grit stone and took it from there. As per your advice did not try the gig.
I tried shaving with it. Nowhere near as good as the high carbon steel razors. My Solingen still gives the best shave.
The metal seems to be way harder though. i.e. stropping on leather even with compound seems to have very little effect.
I think Ill just give the SS razors a skip for now.
This is my 2nd or 3rd attempt to get this razor ready. In the past few years. I have a very bad memory. So it just lies around in the back of a drawer till I find it and get the bug to sharpen it again.
Had to put in a lot of work to get the spine straight.
I assume its the spine because the bewel I get changes along the length of the blade i.e. in some spots its perfect and in some there is hardly any bewel. I assume this means I have to work on the spine dropping its angle to get the bewel right across the balde. Need to figure out some tricks to do this. Cause at times I was tempted to take an angle grinder to it lol.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
The width of the bevel is not important. It doesn't have to be consistent. It ,just has to be there and both sides have to meet in a sharp apex. Don't try to force your razor to conform to some preconceived notion of how it should look.
Spend some time on the honing forum. Spell out exactly what you do, and with what, when you attempt to hone the razor. You will soon be honing like a boss.
Spend some time on the honing forum. Spell out exactly what you do, and with what, when you attempt to hone the razor. You will soon be honing like a boss.
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