Sotiris' straight razor journal

[Sotiris_A]

@Sotiris_A if you have not reach it yet, you should just about be at the state where you wished that you had started SR shaving in your teens.

In my teens I was so absent-minded that even cartridges were dangerous...

I wish I had started the whole journey earlier so that I would have ended up using a SR at 25 instead of 39. I consider my time with a DE paramount for my SR shaves now. It was a great introduction on using a proper shaving angle and figuring out what is good prep for my face, slick lather, how my beard grows both in direction but also where it grows more parallel to the face and I need to adjust my angle etc.

What I love about SR is the fact that it is so technique dependent that it gives you satisfaction for using your gear. It is also very gentle on the skin and ends up a very relaxing experience. You need to empty the mind and focus on the task. At the moment I don't really want to use a different method.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

What I love about SR is the fact that it is so technique dependent that it gives you satisfaction for using your gear. It is also very gentle on the skin and ends up a very relaxing experience.

I actually get that from double edged razors. All of mine are capable of giving me an excellent shave, or a dreadful one, the deciding factor being the fat, hairy cripple driving it. While I don't mind the occasional straight format shave, it will only ever be a novelty for me.

I had hoped the Razorine would go someway to bridge the gap, but instead, it just helped clarify my preference for perpendicular handle over inline handle, as well as the ease of maintenance of disposable blades. I have vastly superior control over angle and pressure with a perpendicular handle. Maybe if my growth pattern was less horizontal (particularly below the jaw), I may have found inline handles more satisfying.

 

[Sotiris_A]

I actually get that from double edged razors. All of mine are capable of giving me an excellent shave, or a dreadful one, the deciding factor being the fat, hairy cripple driving it. While I don't mind the occasional straight format shave, it will only ever be a novelty for me.

I had hoped the Razorine would go someway to bridge the gap, but instead, it just helped clarify my preference for perpendicular handle over inline handle, as well as the ease of maintenance of disposable blades. I have vastly superior control over angle and pressure with a perpendicular handle. Maybe if my growth pattern was less horizontal (particularly below the jaw), I may have found inline handles more satisfying.

I agree that a DE can offer the same experience and reaching perfection, especially with milder razors that offer a smaller range of shaving angles, is a very rewarding task. It can be somewhat equipment dependent, as I've had a razor or two that were no fun to use. The main difference for me is that I can go super shallow with a SR and at some spots it is even more comfortable.

Horizontal growth on the neck is indeed very tough. My pattern is like that on the lower part and there is no way to go full ATG. Luckily for me a direction between XTG and ATG is effective with a SR, though still somewhat awkward.

 

[TinyT]

That‘s why @rbscebu doesn’t do three pass shaves. Doesn’t want to miss a moment if that open blade glory.

This is some BOSC logic right there. Makes perfect sense to me.

 

[Rosseforp]

You need to empty the mind and focus on the task.

That is why my SR's haven't been getting much use lately

 

[Sotiris_A]

Actually, Al, I am not sure if what I wrote is true. I only know that the highly popular, 6/8 full hollow grind works for me. Same way the highly popular DE89, 34c, Progress, Gillette New LC also do. Had I started with heavier grinds I might have had a different opinion.

I went that way by extrapolating from my DE experience, i.e. that a well-balanced (all the reviews I had seen for Ralf Aust mentioned that), less rigid design would work. Or, perhaps I lucked out.

This is some BOSC logic right there. Makes perfect sense to me.

I was wondering when that acronym would be mentioned here, too...

That is why my SR's haven't been getting much use lately

That's for the best, then. After all, at least for me, it's just about stubble removal in an enjoyable way.

 

[TinyT]

I was wondering when that acronym would be mentioned here, too...

Big Nurse says there's a jacket with your name on it.

 

[Sotiris_A]

SR Shave #33 (#8 after retouch):

• Pre-shave: Hot water
• Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8
• Brush: Simpsons Chubby 1 super
• Soap: Valobra Patchouly
• ASL: Furbo blu

• Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG, 3rd ATG.
• Result: I hope that there will be some stubble to shave tomorrow, but I wouldn't bet on it. No blood, no irritation and fantastic post-shave feel.

Notes:

Pre- and post-shave stropping: I didn't count. I like the new strop. I am trying to create a new routine starting from the napped cow leather plate, moving on to latigo and finishing on English bridle. What I did, worked well today.

Great lather, great, smooth edge. Nice and comfy.

The weather is quite warm the last few days that a blue type of aftershave was calling me. I went with Furbo.

Happy shaves and have a wonderful day!

 

[Sotiris_A]

SR Shave #34 (#9 after retouch):

• Pre-shave: Hot water
• Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8
• Brush: Tony Forsyth Tuxedo
• Soap: MWF
• ASL: DR Harris Windsor

• Method: 1st pass XTG, 2rd ATG, minor touch-ups.
• Result: Not much stubble to shave, but I wanted to shave, so as to return to my regular daily schedule. With so short stubble, there are a couple of patches that could have been closer. No blood, no irritation and very good post-shave feel.

Notes:

Pre-shave stropping: 20 laps on napped cow leather, 20 latigo, 20 English bridle. Post-shave stropping: 20 laps on canvas, 20 latigo, 20 English bridle.

Adequate lather as I was in a bit of a rush. Great, smooth edge despite the shorter and less soft stubble. Generally, no matter the prep, stubble that is that short never softens much. I am almost certain that the new strop works a lot better. The edge feels very sharp and the comfort level has increased considerably.

I skipped the WTG pass because it wouldn't be effective and I would risk irritation since my last shave was 20 hours ago. I finished with touch-ups that followed the grain because some spots needed it.

Happy shaves and have a wonderful day!

 

[Sotiris_A]

SR Shave #35 (#10 after retouch):

• Pre-shave: Hot water
• Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8
• Brush: Simpsons Chubby 1 super
• Cream: Castle Forbes 1445
• ASL: Pitralon Classic

• Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG, 3rd ATG.
• Result: Close and very comfortable. A minor cut when going almost ATG on the right part of the lower neck, near the Adam's apple. No irritation and excellent post-shave feel.

Notes:

Pre-shave stropping: 20 latigo, 30 English bridle. Post-shave stropping: 20 laps on napped cow leather, 25 latigo, 25 English bridle.

I wanted a good scent for today's shave and I went with the sample of the 1445 cream I have. Good lather, but not spectacular. However, it was hydrated enough and I felt no tugging or discomfort, apart from the under the nose area. I love the scent and it is tempting me to get a full tub.

The razor felt sharp and smooth and I will continue without a retouch. I rushed a bit my strokes on the lower neck and paid for it. A good reminder that I need a lot more practice. The whole shave took 20 minutes or so.

My second razor is still in transit, coming with regular mail. Let's hope I get it before the end of the month.

Happy shaves and have a wonderful day!

 

[Sotiris_A]

SR Shave #36 (#11 after retouch):

• Pre-shave: Hot water
• Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8
• Brush: Omega 011842
• Cream/soap: Castle Forbes 1445, MWF
• ASL: DR Harris Windsor

• Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG, 3rd ATG.
• Result: Close (but not perfect). I've had more comfortable shaves, I'd say it was average. No blood, no irritation and good post-shave feel.

Notes:

Pre-shave stropping: 20 latigo, 30 English bridle. Post-shave stropping: 20 laps on napped cow leather, 25 latigo, 35 English bridle.

The 1445 and boar brush combo didn't work well. After the WTG pass, I brought out the Fat and finished the shave with it. That was enough to deter me from buying the cream. There is enough cream for one more shave, but I am tempted to just throw it away and move on.

The razor felt sharp but lacked a bit in the smoothness department. I will blame the first pass for this and reassess tomorrow. Nonetheless, the shave was good .

Happy shaves and have a wonderful day!

 

[Sotiris_A]

SR Shave #37 (#12 after retouch):

• Pre-shave: Shower
• Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8
• Brush: Omega evo
• Cream: Castle Forbes 1445
• ASL: Pitralon Classic

• Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG, 3rd ATG.
• Result: Close (but not perfect) and reasonably comfortable. The razor had easier days going through my stubble, especially under the nose. A small cut on the neck, no irritation and ok-ish post-shave feel, a bit on the dry side. The later is due to the weather that got colder since yesterday.

Notes:

Pre-shave stropping: 30 latigo, 30 English bridle. Post-shave stropping: 20 laps on canvas, 20 on napped cow leather, 30 latigo, 40 English bridle. I got carried away with stropping

The sample of 1445 is finished . Contrary to what I wrote yesterday, I thought that it would have been more fair if I tried it with a synthetic brush, too. Therefore, today I bowl lathered and followed Al's method, i.e. I lathered before my shower, stropping and prep so as to leave the lather "marinate". It was actually my best lather with it so far. Not too thick, relatively airy, but super hydrated and slick. That said, I still don't feel it plays great with my water and if I bought it, it wouldn't be for the shave but for the scent. Since I already own 2 Trumper's creams because of their scents, I'll pass.

I need to get back to my control-setup shaves to assess the edge condition. The last two shaves were good enough but not great.

The razor felt reasonably sharp but again it lacked a bit in the smoothness department. No tugging though. It definitely had a hard time ATG under the nose and the result there shows.

Happy shaves and have a wonderful day!

 

[Sotiris_A]

Mail call!

I think that writing "Ralf Aust 6/8 round point" and "Ralf Aust 6/8 Spanish point" is gonna be a pain in the neck. I am thinking of giving them names. What do you think?

 

[TinyT]

I think that writing "Ralf Aust 6/8 round point" and "Ralf Aust 6/8 Spanish point" is gonna be a pain in the neck. I am thinking of giving them names. What do you think?

You could name them based on how they shave. Let's hope they don't end up being called 'Scratchy' and 'Bitey'.

 

[JoWolf]

I think that writing "Ralf Aust 6/8 round point" and "Ralf Aust 6/8 Spanish point" is gonna be a pain in the neck. I am thinking of giving them names. What do you think?

Beautiful Razors. Using initials shortens the length. RA 6/8 round. I like to refer to the hollow as well. If I’ve finished the edge I always want to refer and report on that finish. I think our references to our razors are more individual than standard. Makers initials are the most commonly used. There is no standard.

 

[Sotiris_A]

You could name them based on how they shave. Let's hope they don't end up being called 'Scratchy' and 'Bitey'.

Fingers crossed!

RA 6/8 round is on the bench at the moment. I just finished with the 1k. Due to my inexperience it took me a lot of time to remove the two chips. The bevel seems fine to me under 10x magnification. On to the 3k now.

Beautiful Razors. Using initials shortens the length. RA 6/8 round. I like to refer to the hollow as well. If I’ve finished the edge I always want to refer and report on that finish. I think our references to our razors are more individual than standard. Makers initials are the most commonly used. There is no standard.

True, that could work.

 

[Sotiris_A]

At last, I'm done!

The bevel seems set and any imperfections are gone. As I wrote above it took me a lot more than I expected. Next, the 3k felt a bit strange, somewhat grainy, despite my meticulous lapping with 100 and 320 grit sandpapers. Nonetheless, I think it took care of the majority of the 1k scratches. A problem I faced was that the lighting was insufficient, but I wouldn't risk waking up my daughter by switching on some more. The result was though that I couldn't inspect everything properly. The 8k and 12k were more familiar. Once I felt the 8k was becoming sticky, I switched to the 12k, few laps on the bench and finishing hand holding on running water.

I then stropped thoroughly, 40 on napped cow leather, 40 on latigo and 50 on English bridle and returned to the 12k under running water for the final touch up. Finally, I repeated the same stropping session.

The razor seems very sharp, cutting hanging hair and arm hair at some height. As a first honing experience I am very happy. Unfortunately, the spine has quite a few honing marks, but I bought my razors to use them, not pamper them, so it doesn't really bother me.

Now I am facing a dilemma for tomorrow's shave. Use the "Spaniard" since it is the new toy or the newly refreshed "Gentleman" to finally experience a shave with an edge I put on a razor...

Spoiler

First world problems...

 

[AimlessWanderer]

What's with the multiple stropping surfaces? I have one strop of unknown leather type. As it's non-abrasive, I don't see the benefit of stropping on anything else. I'm not saying there is no benefit, just that I don't know of one.

 

[Sotiris_A]

I also don't know what it is. I just know that moving from my first one which was made of napped cow leather to the paddle and using both the latigo and English bridle plates on my paddle made the edge better. I would assume that the medium/heavy draw surfaces get the job done faster and the smoother English bridle does the alignment of the edge better. But perhaps I am completely wrong and it is just that one of these surfaces works better for me.

 

[Sotiris_A]

SR Shave #38 (#1 after retouch):

• Pre-shave: Hot water
• Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8 round and Spanish point
• Brush: Omega 10065
• Soap: Tabac
• ASL: Pitralon Classic

• Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG, 3rd ATG.
• Result: Very close and comfortable. No blood, no irritation and excellent post-shave feel.

Notes:

Pre-shave stropping: A lot and none, respectively. Post-shave stropping: 20 laps on napped cow leather, 30 latigo, 30 English bridle for both.

The soap and the brush performed excellent. The lather was somewhat thick, but well hydrated.

Sometimes, in the typical B&B manner, the right answer is both. And that's what I did. Some strokes with the new and some with the old razor. First of all the retouch was good but not perfect. I missed an area near the center of the edge where there are some 1k scratches. I should have spent more time on the 3k. I might do that later. The shave though was comfortable and effortless. The edge felt a lot smoother than the 1st shave after the previous retouch. Of course, the new fellow was even smoother. In terms of sharpness they felt comparable.

All in all, I'm happy with both. Now it remains to see how they measure in terms of edge longevity. Finally, I should have hit the stone with the round point earlier, after shave 10 or so.

Happy shaves and have a wonderful day!