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Sotiris' straight razor journal

Well, I'm glad to hear your face is faring better than the strop :lol:

You seem to be taking to straight shaving rather well, from what you've written thus far. :thumbup:

:lol: Yes the face is still intact. Probably because I spend 5' tops for stropping and 40' minimum for shaving 🐢

I always liked "rituals". For example I used to smoke the pipe for 10 years or so, before quitting smoking completely. I think this is part of the reason I seem to be getting along with the SR. Plus I have spare time to invest in it.
 
PC130228 (2).JPG


SR Shave #7:

  • Pre-shave: Warm water
  • Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8
  • Brushes: Simpsons Chubby 1 best
  • Soap: MWF
  • ASL: Floid Vigoroso ( Imanaged to finish it today after 2.5 years :jump: )

  • Method: 3 full passes, 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG/ATG on the neck, cheeks and XTG on the rest of the face, 3rd ATG on the neck and chin and XTG in the upper lip area.
  • Result: A close shave, but not as close as yesterday. No blood, a tiny bit of irritation around a small bump. Excellent port-shave feel.
  • Satisfaction: 9/10

Notes:

  1. Pre-shave stropping: 50 laps on leather. Post-shave stropping: 20 laps on canvas, 50 laps on leather. I managed to shave off a very small and thin slice again on the edge towards the bottom. Even though I took my time, during stropping the leather starts to twist a bit. In my effort to flatten it again, I lost my concentration. Nothing serious, but it makes me wonder once again if a wide paddle strop is a better solution for me. After all, I tend to hold the strop in a horizontal position.
  2. An MWF lather needs more work throughout the shave, but I love this soap. I think I got my "fix" for now, so tomorrow I will return to Tabac for the ease of use. In time I hope that I will be able to shave faster and enjoy the Fat even more.
  3. The razor's edge still feels great and the shave was very comfortable, akin to a DE blade in the buttery-smooth phase. No hesitation today despite not applying any pre-shave product. That said I am starting to see some uneven reflection on the edge towards the heel. It makes me wonder if I should wait until there is tugging or if I should put my Naniwa and/or Chromox into use. The razor still cuts hanging hairs and arm hairs above the skin throughout the whole length of the edge.
  4. The WTG pass feels more natural and I picked up the pace a bit. No real difference between the two hands. The second and third pass are still very difficult with the left hand and that's the part I spend most of my shaving time.
 
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SR Shave #8:

  • Pre-shave: Warm water and Musco Real pre-shave oil
  • Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8
  • Brushes: Tony Forsyth tuxedo
  • Soap: Valobra Patchouly
  • ASL: D.R. Harris Windsor

  • Method: 3 full passes, 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG/ATG depending on the area, 3rd ATG/XTG on the upper lip area and ATG everywhere else.
  • Result: Nice and close shave. A couple of minor nicks on the upper lip. Irritation-free and excellent port-shave feel.
  • Satisfaction: 10/10

Notes:

  1. Pre-shave stropping: 50 laps on leather. Post-shave stropping: 20 laps on canvas, 50 laps on leather. I changed the position of the strop to downwards 25-30o, following Lynn Abrams style I saw in a video. It seems more natural, much easier to control and the strop doesn't twist. Thankfully, I didn't damage it further today.
  2. I currently have 7 different soaps (4 in use), Haslinger, La Toja, MWF, Palmolive, Speick, Tabac and Valobra (2 scents) but enough stockpile from these soaps to last almost a decade. I don't like vast rotations and today I wanted to see if Valobra is suitable for my long SR shaves. The performance was great! 10'' loading was enough for 3 passes. I should note that I like my lathers thin and slick. This seems to work well with the SR so far.
  3. The razor's edge still feels great, easy on the skin and the shave was very comfortable.
  4. My beloved boars feel neglected, but with the shaves lasting around 40' they tend to eat the lather. My 2 synthetics and the 2 Chubbies are going to be used for now.
  5. The pre-shave oil didn't do anything for me.
 
SR Shave #9:

  • Pre-shave: Warm water
  • Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8
  • Brushes: Simpsons Chubby 1 super
  • Soap: La Toja and Castle Forbed 1445 (sample)
  • ASL: LPL Apres Rassage

  • Method: 2.5 passes, 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG/ATG depending on the area, finished with an ATG pass on the neck.
  • Result: Relatively close, but La Toja caused some irritation during the first pass. A bit of skin tightness after the shave, but no redness so far.
  • Satisfaction: 4/10
Notes:

  1. Pre-shave stropping: 50 laps on leather. Post-shave stropping: 20 laps on canvas, 60 laps on leather. The new positioning helps a lot and the stropping felt fluid despite the lower speed.
  2. Soapwise, today it was another day of experiments, but they didn't go very well. The goal of the day was to test La Toja, a soap that works for me with a DE razor. I made a thin and slick lather as per usual. I started going WTG on the right side and the razor was gliding as good as ever. However, on the left side I started feeling some minor irritation. I quickly finished the pass and rinsed the face and brush. I guess that I wouldn't sense anything during my DE shaves, because they tend to be rather quick and the lather wouldn't stay on the face for long. It's a pity but they need to go. The den purge continues...
  3. In order to avoid any brush burn, after the first pass I bowl lathered some Castle Forbes 1445 from a sample. I don't have any experience with it, apart from a test lather I did a long time ago. Lovely scent, but the performance was average and not worth the high price point. That's only a first impression but I don't think there will be a second one.
  4. This leaves me with 3 soaps that suit my skin (MWF, Tabac and Valobra) and 3 more (Haslinger, Palmolive and Speick) that will need to be tested with a SR at some point. This will wait though as my 3 hard pucks will last me a while. I also have 2 tubs of Geo F Trumper cream that I need to test. I don't have high hopes that they will be slick enough, but we'll see.
  5. The razor's edge felt great initially and the shave is rather close. I cannot assess it any further, because of the problems described above.
 
View attachment 1194481

SR Shave #7:

  • Pre-shave: Warm water
  • Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8
  • Brushes: Simpsons Chubby 1 best
  • Soap: MWF
  • ASL: Floid Vigoroso ( Imanaged to finish it today after 2.5 years :jump: )

  • Method: 3 full passes, 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG/ATG on the neck, cheeks and XTG on the rest of the face, 3rd ATG on the neck and chin and XTG in the upper lip area.
  • Result: A close shave, but not as close as yesterday. No blood, a tiny bit of irritation around a small bump. Excellent port-shave feel.
  • Satisfaction: 9/10

Notes:

  1. Pre-shave stropping: 50 laps on leather. Post-shave stropping: 20 laps on canvas, 50 laps on leather. I managed to shave off a very small and thin slice again on the edge towards the bottom. Even though I took my time, during stropping the leather starts to twist a bit. In my effort to flatten it again, I lost my concentration. Nothing serious, but it makes me wonder once again if a wide paddle strop is a better solution for me. After all, I tend to hold the strop in a horizontal position.
  2. An MWF lather needs more work throughout the shave, but I love this soap. I think I got my "fix" for now, so tomorrow I will return to Tabac for the ease of use. In time I hope that I will be able to shave faster and enjoy the Fat even more.
  3. The razor's edge still feels great and the shave was very comfortable, akin to a DE blade in the buttery-smooth phase. No hesitation today despite not applying any pre-shave product. That said I am starting to see some uneven reflection on the edge towards the heel. It makes me wonder if I should wait until there is tugging or if I should put my Naniwa and/or Chromox into use. The razor still cuts hanging hairs and arm hairs above the skin throughout the whole length of the edge.
  4. The WTG pass feels more natural and I picked up the pace a bit. No real difference between the two hands. The second and third pass are still very difficult with the left hand and that's the part I spend most of my shaving time.
Nothing serious, but it makes me wonder once again if a wide paddle strop is a better solution for me. After all, I tend to hold the strop in a horizontal position.
You may want to get other strops. If so they may be the hanging variety. The most commonly used with straights. I use strops horizontally and vertically. I’m a noob like you and I’ve nicked them in both planes. It comes with learning. I continue to concentrate on stropping slowly and I am improving.

The razor still cuts hanging hairs and arm hairs above the skin throughout the whole length of the edge.
Thats the shave edge you want. Your shave description was positive. Keep doing what you are doing in maintaining your blade edge.
I have taken to examining the blade edge with a 10x loupe before and after my shaves. I’m trying different razors and blade angles. Looking at the blade edges and connecting them to the shave I get will help me understand the angles and edges better.
 
You may want to get other strops. If so they may be the hanging variety. The most commonly used with straights. I use strops horizontally and vertically. I’m a noob like you and I’ve nicked them in both planes. It comes with learning. I continue to concentrate on stropping slowly and I am improving.

Thank you for your post! :)

My strop is a hanging one. Lately I hang it using a plastic towel hook placed on the bathroom radiator of this type

1608100086029.png


With this I can vary the position and find which one suits me. The last few days, I am positioning it in a downwards direction like on the following video


This helps me control my right hand better, keep the whole length of the spine on the strop and avoid nicks towards the edges.

I like the leeway of a hanging strop, it helps me get some feedback from the razor. I am afraid that the more rigid surface of a paddle will not provide a similar experience. Now that I seem to have found a suitable stropping way, I'll stick with it and probably buy a better hanging strop latter on.

Thats the shave edge you want. Your shave description was positive. Keep doing what you are doing in maintaining your blade edge.
I have taken to examining the blade edge with a 10x loupe before and after my shaves. I’m trying different razors and blade angles. Looking at the blade edges and connecting them to the shave I get will help me understand the angles and edges better.

Yes, a loupe will be beneficial, thanks for the tip! :)

I need to do some search on that to see what I can find locally.

Maintenance is an issue for me. Right now I am only stropping on leather and canvas. The original edge was obviously great and it is still holding on.

Unfortunately, I am not aware of a capable honer near me. Also, the store I bought my SR from is in the UK and I am not prepared to pay for customs in order to keep it shave ready come January 1st (see Brexit). I got some Chromox and a Naniwa 12k. I will try those first.

Lately, I am thinking of getting a second RA 6/8 as a backup and use my stone and paste on the first one. If I can refresh the latter, the former will just be a spare and perhaps one that I can learn honing on. If not, I can send one for honing, while having another to shave with. If anyone has a suggestion for a honer located in the EU, please let me know. :)
 
PC160229-3.jpg


SR Shave #10:
  • Pre-shave: Warm water and hand soap
  • Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8
  • Brushes: Omega 10065
  • Soap:Mitchell's Wool Fat
  • ASL: Speick

  • Method: 3 passes, 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG/ATG depending on the area, 3rd ATG almost everywhere.
  • Result: Comfortable and close. Not the closest I've achieved with an SR. Zero irritation and good post-shave feel.
  • Satisfaction: 9/10

Notes:
  1. Pre-shave stropping: 20 laps on canvas, 60 laps on leather. Post-shave stropping: 20 laps on canvas, 60 laps on leather. No new nicks on the strop.
  2. Face lathering some Fat with a boar brush is one of the pleasures in life for me. The skin felt good, but not perfect after yesterday's shave, so I wanted to treat myself.
  3. The razor's edge felt good. The shave was comfortable, but I think I opened up the shaving angle a bit and felt the blade more. I am happy with the result, but keep thinking I might need to refresh the edge soon. That said, it still passed the HHT after each stropping session.
  4. My passes are more natural and fluid. Some spots still trouble me, but even there I see a bit of improvement. The one area that I feel uncomfortable and somewhat afraid to go ATG is the lower neck. My growth there is almost horizontal and towards the Adam's apple.
  5. Still a happy camper.
 
Thank you for your post! :)

My strop is a hanging one. Lately I hang it using a plastic towel hook placed on the bathroom radiator of this type

View attachment 1195749

With this I can vary the position and find which one suits me. The last few days, I am positioning it in a downwards direction like on the following video


This helps me control my right hand better, keep the whole length of the spine on the strop and avoid nicks towards the edges.

I like the leeway of a hanging strop, it helps me get some feedback from the razor. I am afraid that the more rigid surface of a paddle will not provide a similar experience. Now that I seem to have found a suitable stropping way, I'll stick with it and probably buy a better hanging strop latter on.



Yes, a loupe will be beneficial, thanks for the tip! :)

I need to do some search on that to see what I can find locally.

Maintenance is an issue for me. Right now I am only stropping on leather and canvas. The original edge was obviously great and it is still holding on.

Unfortunately, I am not aware of a capable honer near me. Also, the store I bought my SR from is in the UK and I am not prepared to pay for customs in order to keep it shave ready come January 1st (see Brexit). I got some Chromox and a Naniwa 12k. I will try those first.

Lately, I am thinking of getting a second RA 6/8 as a backup and use my stone and paste on the first one. If I can refresh the latter, the former will just be a spare and perhaps one that I can learn honing on. If not, I can send one for honing, while having another to shave with. If anyone has a suggestion for a honer located in the EU, please let me know. :)
Unfortunately, I am not aware of a capable honer near me. Also, the store I bought my SR from is in the UK and I am not prepared to pay for customs in order to keep it shave ready come January 1st (see Brexit). I got some Chromox and a Naniwa 12k. I will try those first.
The 10x works well with the good bathroom lighting I have. The 15x requires to be closer to the desk overhead light I use while honing. The ten will show you a nice mirror finish on the bevel which the 12k Naniwa leaves.
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Lately, I am thinking of getting a second RA 6/8 as a backup and use my stone and paste on the first one. If I can refresh the latter, the former will just be a spare and perhaps one that I can learn honing on. If not, I can send one for honing, while having another to shave with. If anyone has a suggestion for a honer located in the EU, please let me know.
I would be very selective and careful about who might do my edges. You already have the 12k. Maintaining your edge as you have is delivering excellent shaves for you. The 12k will not sharpen your blade. It will polish it to a mirror finish and “True Up“ or make the edge “ Keen” Not required well splitting hairs. There should be no reason to re bevel your edge. I have not used chromox. A better choice would be .5 diamond paste on balsa. The grit is more uniform. Unless you ding your blade there is no reason to do anything more than just touching it up. When required.
The videos will show and advise what you need to do for stone maintenance and proper honing. I use a polished marble floor tile for wet/dry paper to lap my stones. Most economical way to do it, most options with paper. I prefer 3M paper. Norton is cheaper but still works good. Pay close attention to the dude in the video on lapping stones. Critical.
I also have a 400 Atoma plate. And recently ordered a 1200. They are extremely efficient and quick while sharpening and honing for touch ups on your stones. You would want more stones first though.
 
The 10x works well with the good bathroom lighting I have. The 15x requires to be closer to the desk overhead light I use while honing. The ten will show you a nice mirror finish on the bevel which the 12k Naniwa leaves.
US $7.5 5% OFF|Black Loupe Jewelry Magnifier 10x 15x 20x 30x Magnification 20.5mm Lens Diameter Triplet Lens Metal Body Optical Glass|Magnifiers| - AliExpress - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32983201891.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.41014c4dIwCz0H




I would be very selective and careful about who might do my edges. You already have the 12k. Maintaining your edge as you have is delivering excellent shaves for you. The 12k will not sharpen your blade. It will polish it to a mirror finish and “True Up“ or make the edge “ Keen” Not required well splitting hairs. There should be no reason to re bevel your edge. I have not used chromox. A better choice would be .5 diamond paste on balsa. The grit is more uniform. Unless you ding your blade there is no reason to do anything more than just touching it up. When required.
The videos will show and advise what you need to do for stone maintenance and proper honing. I use a polished marble floor tile for wet/dry paper to lap my stones. Most economical way to do it, most options with paper. I prefer 3M paper. Norton is cheaper but still works good. Pay close attention to the dude in the video on lapping stones. Critical.
I also have a 400 Atoma plate. And recently ordered a 1200. They are extremely efficient and quick while sharpening and honing for touch ups on your stones. You would want more stones first though.
Tapping the spine can be controversial.

Your razor from the factory was not tapped when setting the bevel. If you honed it with tape now. You would increase the angle of the set bevel. Example. If it was 16 degrees you would increase that to 17 degrees. if you have honed a razor with tape. You cannot use a .5 micron balsa to finish a tapped edge for touch ups.
 
The 10x works well with the good bathroom lighting I have. The 15x requires to be closer to the desk overhead light I use while honing. The ten will show you a nice mirror finish on the bevel which the 12k Naniwa leaves.
US $7.5 5% OFF|Black Loupe Jewelry Magnifier 10x 15x 20x 30x Magnification 20.5mm Lens Diameter Triplet Lens Metal Body Optical Glass|Magnifiers| - AliExpress - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32983201891.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.41014c4dIwCz0H




I would be very selective and careful about who might do my edges. You already have the 12k. Maintaining your edge as you have is delivering excellent shaves for you. The 12k will not sharpen your blade. It will polish it to a mirror finish and “True Up“ or make the edge “ Keen” Not required well splitting hairs. There should be no reason to re bevel your edge. I have not used chromox. A better choice would be .5 diamond paste on balsa. The grit is more uniform. Unless you ding your blade there is no reason to do anything more than just touching it up. When required.
The videos will show and advise what you need to do for stone maintenance and proper honing. I use a polished marble floor tile for wet/dry paper to lap my stones. Most economical way to do it, most options with paper. I prefer 3M paper. Norton is cheaper but still works good. Pay close attention to the dude in the video on lapping stones. Critical.
I also have a 400 Atoma plate. And recently ordered a 1200. They are extremely efficient and quick while sharpening and honing for touch ups on your stones. You would want more stones first though.

Thanks a mile! :)

I might need to dive into this sooner than later. Some days my life is like a scene from The Party, from one mistake to the next.

Earlier in the afternoon I saw some rust near the pin of the razor. Using some paper towel and a bit of WD40 I managed to take it off but when I tested the edge it wouldn't pass the HHT. I obviously managed to blunt it a bit along the way, so it was time to use my Naniwa 12k for the first time. I wetted a thick piece of glass I have, put a 1200 grit sandpaper on it and lapped the stone. On to the sink after that, I did 15 passes on the stone and finished with 60 laps on leather. Once again it would easily pass the HHT.

2' later, I thought it was a good idea to call my wife, while placing the razor back on its base. :crazy: :out: Long story short, I managed to drop the razor on the floor! :yikes:

Upon inspection, there was once again something off on the edge near the tip. I don't know how much the damage was, but it would leave marks on the strop while stropping... So I went back to the stone and the strop a couple of times to remedy that. At the moment it seems OK, but I think tomorrow's shave will be the final test. In any case my 34c will be nearby to finish the shave in case I messed it all up, which is highly possible...
 
Tapping the spine can be controversial.

Your razor from the factory was not tapped when setting the bevel. If you honed it with tape now. You would increase the angle of the set bevel. Example. If it was 16 degrees you would increase that to 17 degrees. if you have honed a razor with tape. You cannot use a .5 micron balsa to finish a tapped edge for touch ups.

Another parameter to think about. I'm leaning against it.
 
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PC170236-3.jpg


SR Shave #11 :001_wub: :
  • Pre-shave: Warm water
  • Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8
  • Brushes: Simpsons Chubby 1 super
  • Soap: Tabac
  • Scuttle: SWK xl
  • ASL: Speick

  • Method: 3 passes, 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG/ATG depending on the area, 3rd ATG.
  • Result: My best SR so far! Zero irritation and excellent post-shave feel.
  • Satisfaction: 10/10 (I could use 11/10 but the mathematician in me strongly objects to the idea :lol: )

Notes:
  1. Pre-shave stropping: Zero, I prepared the blade yesterday. Post-shave stropping: 60+ laps on leather. No new nicks on the strop.
  2. I am ecstatic! Not only did I not mess the edge up, but it actually felt like new today. What a relief! :001_005:
  3. That was the most comfortable and closest shave so far.
  4. I started with the hands shaking more than day 1. By the end I was so confident that I attempted a few difficult XTG and ATG strokes. I also think I figure out how to go XTG on my difficult spots and tomorrow I will try a classic 3 pass shave.
  5. Stay away from the razor today! :lol:
 
SR Shave #12:
  • Pre-shave: Warm water and Geo F Trumper Skin Food
  • Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8
  • Brushes: Zenith extra soft horse
  • Soap: Mitchell's Wool Fat
  • ASL: LPL Apres Rasage

  • Method: 3 passes, 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG/ATG depending on the area, 3rd ATG.
  • Result: Nice, close shave. A small nick on the lower neck. No irritation.
  • Satisfaction: 8/10

Notes:
  1. Pre-shave stropping: 20 canvas, 60 leather. Post-shave stropping: 10 canvas, 60 laps on leather.
  2. Excellent lather on the first pass, but it became a bit airy on the 2nd and third. I tried to fix it, but it wasn't my best MWF lather.
 
SR Shave #13:
  • Pre-shave: Warm water
  • Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8
  • Brushes: Omega evo duca
  • Soap:Tabac
  • ASL: Le Pere Lucien Oud-Sandal

  • Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG/ATG depending on the area, 3rd ATG.
  • Result: Super close and comfortable. Somehow I manager to make a small cut near the right sideburn. I didn't feel anything and there was no blood, but the cut was there once I applied the aftershave. No irritation and excellent post shave.
  • Satisfaction: 10/10

Notes:
  1. Pre-shave stropping: 10 laps on canvas, 60 laps on leather. Post-shave stropping: same.
  2. Excellent lather on the first pass, but I had to load a bit more before each pass. The lather quality was great.
  3. I retouched the edge yesterday, because why not? I like the process. The edge was great today! I am wondering how much better a natural stone edge can be, because to me the synthetic edge feel awesome.
  4. The Omega evo is a very good brush but it is a bit big for my taste. It is a pity that they don't make a 22-24mm version.
 
SR Shave #14:
  • Pre-shave: Warm water
  • Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8
  • Brushes: Semogue 620
  • Soap: Valobra Patchouly
  • ASL: Le Pere Lucien Oud-Sandal

  • Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd mainly XTG, 3rd ATG.
  • Result: Very close but there was a bit of tugging ATG. Probably it was my improper prep and lather, but will see tomorrow. No blood, no irritation and good post shave feel.
  • Satisfaction: 8/10

Notes:
  1. Pre-shave stropping: 20 laps on canvas, 60 laps on leather. Post-shave stropping: 20 on canvas, 80 on leather.
  2. The lather seemed very good in terms of primary and residual slickness. I think that it was too dense though. At least as per my standards.
  3. The razor felt super comfortable in the first two passes but it was a bit off at some difficult spots ATG. Given my inexperience there are a lot of possible reasons. I will keep it as is and see how it behaves tomorrow.
 
SR Shave #15:
  • Pre-shave: Warm water
  • Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8
  • Brushes: Muhle STF xl
  • Soap: Mitchell's Wool Fat
  • ASB: Noxzema Action Plus

  • Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd mainly XTG, 3rd ATG.
  • Result: Not the closest and there was quite a bit of tugging even WTG. No blood, a bit of redness in the chin area and not great post shave feel.
  • Satisfaction: 2/10

Notes:
  1. Pre-shave stropping: I didn't count, but it was a lot. Post-shave stropping: same.
  2. The lather was excellent in an otherwise mediocre shave.
  3. The razor felt OK WTG, but it was tugging in the chin area. Things were worse during the rest of the shave. It definitely needs a remedy. I am afraid that the 12k is not enough. Upon inspection there are 3 tiny but visible chips near the edge and a close up photo shows quite a bit of unevenness in the center.
  4. I am wondering if my strop is part of the problem with all the sanding that I had to do to smooth it out. I am relatively certain that my stropping was not that bad the last two days to destroy the edge. Another thought is that this might be cumulative.
  5. The Noxzema cream which is advertised as a moisturizer that can also act as a balm, did the trick and the face is now irritation free.

I am afraid this means that I need to make a decision, send it for honing and use my DEs meanwhile or keep refreshing it with the 12k as best as I can, until more stones arrive and/or a second shave-ready razor. The second solution involves quite an investment, but it might be more sustainable in the long run. In any case, the last two weeks have been so much a fun that I am determined to continue SR shaving.
 
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