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Sometimes - It pays to go back to the beginning.

If for no other reason than to confirm that where I'm at right now - is a very good place.

Nothing really exciting here - just havin' fun.

In case you're wondering - the shave test was awesome.


 
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So am I understanding correctly that you went from 1k to 50k (crOx approximat grit) and did the whole thing in 10 minutes?
How was edge before you started?
 
I think the progression is listed at the start of the clip - 1k to 6um to 3um to 1um.

Before the 1k, I had to remove some chips and stuff, did that earlier in the week. So the bevel and edge were in good but not done condition.

The work in the vid went very fast. If I wasn't making a clip, that work would have been just about 10-15 min. total.
 
I really enjoyed that video, Gamma. Thanks for going back to "the beginning" here. If I understand the video, you placed the T-I paste on the red paste. What was the reason for this? Also, I am wondering why you sprayed the red-pasted strop at one point.
 
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Interesting. I was actually thinking about it.
I can see it working: the 1k gives a clean edge, then the stropping on the pastes polishes just the very narrow shaving surface.
I am guessing that if you look under magnification you see that the mirror polished part of the edge is a lot narrowed than on traditional honing.
I'd be curious as to how that fare on shaving several days in a row with it (to make sure that there are no irritations).
When I skip a day, it feels that even a butter knife gives a great shave. The real test is the daily one.

Anyway, I have not tried the paste under crOX.
I bought a big block of white stuff (a pound brick) that I have never tried. I might have to designate a strop for it.
 
Interesting. I was actually thinking about it.
I can see it working: the 1k gives a clean edge, then the stropping on the pastes polishes just the very narrow shaving surface.
I am guessing that if you look under magnification you see that the mirror polished part of the edge is a lot narrowed than on traditional honing.
I'd be curious as to how that fare on shaving several days in a row with it (to make sure that there are no irritations).
When I skip a day, it feels that even a butter knife gives a great shave. The real test is the daily one.

Anyway, I have not tried the paste under crOX.
I bought a big block of white stuff (a pound brick) that I have never tried. I might have to designate a strop for it.

Actually - the polish across the bevel was even from Shinogi to cutting edge. The substrate for the green and red pastes was a very very stiff webbing I had lying around from an old strop. There is very little give in that material.
To be honest - you'd have a hard time telling the bevel from one off a stone.
Not suprisingly - the bevel was less than beautiful when done. Grit wise, the red/green pastes are not as consistent as a good stone.
Not suprisingly, the edge shaved as smooth as any other. Pretty bevels don't really mean much to me. Time and time again I see 'ugly' bevels that shave wonderfully.
I would not expect any issues with with extended use. If the edge is done well - it's done well.


I really enjoyed that video, Gamma. Thanks for going back to "the beginning" here. If I understand the video, you placed the T-I paste on the red paste. What was the reason for this? Also, I am wondering why you sprayed the red-pasted strop at one point.


The beginning, here, was a reference to when I started honing and I had no real idea about too much of anything.
Making that edge in this video put me way out of my element - I had never done that before. I read about it once - but until yesterday I had never touched any of those pastes. Actually - what I had read was from Dovo - they recommended using the red/green pastes for sharpening wedges - on a loom strop with edge leading strokes no less. So - what I did was a bit different but still similar in concept.
I had to rely on what my hands, ears, and eyes were telling me.
In a way - but not exactly like this - it reminded me of the first time I put a blade on a Norton 4/8k.


No - the TI paste was put on a piece of leather. The first two pastes were on the front and back of a piece of a hard coarse linen hanger.
The reason for the leather is fairly mundane. I ran out of Linen and I had a piece of leather sitting nearby.

The water - hmm, didn't think anyone would notice that. At that point I felt that I wanted to reduce the friction on the paste. You can't see it in the clip - but until that point there's a good amount of pressure on the blade. After the water spritz I lightened up considerably - the edge was coming along nicely - and at that point some finesse was needed.
 

David

The Fur Burglar!
Great video gamma, thanks for posting. I've been having trouble getting the toe of my razors as sharp as the heel and middle, and I like how you really worked just the toe of the razor all the way to the edge of the stone. Ive tried this on two razors this morning with good results.
 
The beginning, here, was a reference to when I started honing and I had no real idea about too much of anything.
Making that edge in this video put me way out of my element - I had never done that before. I read about it once - but until yesterday I had never touched any of those pastes. Actually - what I had read was from Dovo - they recommended using the red/green pastes for sharpening wedges - on a loom strop with edge leading strokes no less. So - what I did was a bit different but still similar in concept.
I had to rely on what my hands, ears, and eyes were telling me.
In a way - but not exactly like this - it reminded me of the first time I put a blade on a Norton 4/8k.


No - the TI paste was put on a piece of leather. The first two pastes were on the front and back of a piece of a hard coarse linen hanger.
The reason for the leather is fairly mundane. I ran out of Linen and I had a piece of leather sitting nearby.

The water - hmm, didn't think anyone would notice that. At that point I felt that I wanted to reduce the friction on the paste. You can't see it in the clip - but until that point there's a good amount of pressure on the blade. After the water spritz I lightened up considerably - the edge was coming along nicely - and at that point some finesse was needed.

Thanks for clarifying things for me. I haven't really used the Dovo green stuff, but one thing I learned here is that T-I alox-diamond is higher up on the food chain than the red paste. Actually, I thought it was the other way 'round. Just for kicks this evening, I tried a few dozen laps on the red on a leather paddle followed by a few dozen more on the T-I alox-diamond on suede, more or less following your example, before hitting the horsehide. The result was a very nice shave.
 
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Yep - the white paste is several steps up the ladder for sure.
The green stuff is fairly coarse - it's an interesting substance actually.

None of this would be something I wouild really dig into using on a regular basis though.
I have enough hones here to keep me busy and happy for a good long time - this was more of a lark.

I might be convinced that the TI pase would be good for a travel kit though. Or maybe a small strop charged with it or something.
I think a Frictionite 00 would be better for that - but they cost a mint now. The TI paste is pretty inexpensive.

Originally - I was going to get a little tub of Crox to finish this off with but it seems I didn't need it.
I mean - the bump up from the Crox may have been well felt but the shave was really fine without it.

People make a big deal out of a lot of all of this honing jazz. My own preferences for Jnats may seem to be just that - but in reality I really do see most of what we consider to be honing pretty simplistic stuff. It really doesn't need to be as complicated as a lot of people make it out to be.

Alternate levels of honing are another thing - extreme refinement does not come easy or quickly. Completely learning a stone, system, or progression does not happen fast - it just can't. You can only shave once a day. That approach, to me, is a real craft and it must be learned over time. I see no other way for it to happen. Even if someone is born with honing skills - it still takes time to parse out the information - a 100 shaves is 100 days - and so on. It takes time to differentiate subtle nuances, try different techniques, and to advance with any style. That's just how it is.

But - it's not wholly neccessary to go there. It really isn't. For me, it's a side-bar passion that I enjoy tremendously.

Getting a good shaving edge is pretty simple with this method - stupid simple actually. I can't imagine any 'system' being easier.
I'm extremely critical of edges - In that regard - I don't have one single bad thing to say about this paste progression.
I liked the edge and the shave - a lot.

One thing though - it all comes down to the bevel - no bevel, no edge. Gotta nail the bevel first.
 
I have ti bio paste 6m 3m 1.0m 0.25m then crox to finish,,I have used the whole system on a four sided paddle and crox strop..

used it with 10 strokes on each after a coticule slurry edge and water and it works just as you say leaves a very sharp silky smooth shaving edge, perhaps I could use after 1k

gary
 
Should work.
Doesn't hurt to try since you already have the stuff.

Interesting - you go from .25µm to .5µm Crox. Seems odd.

What's the .25? Diamond?
 
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