Some soaps make life easier..

[old_school]

Here is the ingredient list for Grooming Dept Mallard artisan shaving soap. It is one of the finest shaving soaps I have ever used. It costs many times as much as VDH Deluxe, but the shaving experience is exquisite.

Ingredients: Water, Stearic Acid, Duck Fat, Kukui Nut Oil, Goat Milk, Castor Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Cupuacu Butter, Kokum Butter, Glycerin, Jojoba Oil, Myristic Acid, Shea Butter, Sodium Hydroxide, Fragrance, Coconut Milk, Tamanu Oil, Lauryl Laurate, Carnauba Wax, Beeswax, Allantoin, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Betaine, Sodium Lactate, Silk Amino Acids, Oat Amino Acids, Sesame Oil, Macadamia Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Gluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Tocopherols, Silk Peptides.

LOL! unobtanium and here and here... According to a quick look through this thread GD Soaps last from 30 to 45 days per jar at $26 plus shipping. Let's call it ~40 days per tub or 9 tubs per year or $234/per tub plus shipping IF you can get it - for a year of shaves. Not what the thread is about, is it.

My wife has dry skin and must use moisturizer, her current favorite - for face and neck only - is $13.50 for 89ml. She uses 0.3mL per day so it last nearly 300 days. One is better off buying a dozen sticks of Arko and a bottle of your favorite facial moisturizer. Why? Cheaper, maker has a stable formula, lasts longer and it actually exists in this universe plus your using a moisturizer you picked out specifically for your face instead of being at the mercy of whatever butters, oil, waxes etc in the shave soap. Arko plus my wife's moisturizer would run <$28.50 delivered for a ~years worth of fine, top tier, world class shaves with a favorite facial moisturizer.

If a person needs a moisturizing shave soap (I don't) Mikes Natural Soaps usually has something available at $15 or less per 5oz jar or 4.5 oz puck. The ingredients list is refined, formulation is stable and more than enough moisturizing for my face. I rate it's shave A+ right along with La Toja, Speick, Palmolive, Williams, Cella, etc... I'm checking out Mikes as a 'local' replacement to tallow Tabac ~15 shaves in it's no where near 1/3 gone.

Mikes Natural Soap:
Ingredients: Distilled water; saponified tallow (beef) and stearic acid; vegetable glycerin; saponified kokum butter, avocado oil, and shea butter; lanolin, fragrance and/or essential oil(s); saponified coconut oil; kaolin clay, vitamin E.

Happy Thanksgiving @RayClem. Appreicate all the testing and feedback you do, use it a lot for making choices on what to try or not.

 

[Lane101]

Well, yes. Soap is a combination of fatty acids and lye. However, the characteristics of the soap depend on which fatty acids are used and whether the lye is primarily sodium hyroxide (hard soaps) or potassium hydroxide (soft soaps). Some fatty acids do not make the best shaving soaps. Castile soaps primarily from olive oil and Aleppo soaps primarily from laurel oil may be slick, but they generally are not very protective unless other fatty acids are added. Soaps that are high in stearic acid, whether from animal or vegetable sources, generally provide a thicker, richer, more protective shaving lather.

I now have 220 soaps in my collection. I rate each of those soaps. Both Williams and Van der Hagen rate as FAILS on my evaluation system If you want an inexpesive soap that performs much better, purchase a bar of Yardley of London Bath Bar with Cocoa Butter; it rates a C-.

The real magic of a well made shaving soap, however, comes in the added ingredients designed to moisturize, nourish and condition the skin. I love using soaps that rate A and A+.


By the way, Van der Hagen Dexuxe is primarily a synthetic detergent rather than a soap. It is a chemical concoction containing: Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Propylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Myristic Acid, Alcohol, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Water (Aqua), Sodium Hydroxide, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Fragrance (Parfum), Aminomethyl Propanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Chloride, Methyl Ionones, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Curry Red (CI 16035), Acid Yellow 23 (CI 19140).

The only reason it can be called a soap is that it contains a small amount of myristic acid, Shea butter, and sodium hydroxide.

If you think the formula of VDH Deluxe is anything like the formula of a high quality artisan soap, you have not read the labels carefully.

Here is the ingredient list for Grooming Dept Mallard artisan shaving soap. It is one of the finest shaving soaps I have ever used. It costs many times as much as VDH Deluxe, but the shaving experience is exquisite.

Ingredients: Water, Stearic Acid, Duck Fat, Kukui Nut Oil, Goat Milk, Castor Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Cupuacu Butter, Kokum Butter, Glycerin, Jojoba Oil, Myristic Acid, Shea Butter, Sodium Hydroxide, Fragrance, Coconut Milk, Tamanu Oil, Lauryl Laurate, Carnauba Wax, Beeswax, Allantoin, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Betaine, Sodium Lactate, Silk Amino Acids, Oat Amino Acids, Sesame Oil, Macadamia Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Gluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Tocopherols, Silk Peptides.

Hi RayClem,

We already went through this conversation a while back per our posts in the first thread below and can agree to disagree as YMMV always applies. There are many who get great results from low cost soaps and in many cases (won't repeat as this is covered in the thread below) there are many soaps costing 3x - 5x+ that have the same top 3 or 4 ingredients. For those that prefer an artisan soap due to the scent, container, artwork, etc. (per others reviews) that is a personal decision that we all respect.

While, due to YMMV, I respect that while Van Der Hagen (VDH) and Williams don't work for you I achieve excellent results in the areas that matter to me. These include thick lather, cushion, slickness and a mild or barbershop aroma when using these soaps (often blended) with my equipment and technique (as do many others) and hope you would respect that in our personal rating systems/experiences these soaps rate an "A". When blended the VDH Deluxe foaming agents compliment the Williams tallow based slickness to deliver a soap that lathers easily and delivers an excellent shaving experience. VDH Deluxe alone has limited slickness as noted in my earlier analysis (second post link below). VDH Luxury, with 10% glycerine, has good slickness and I use it straight as do many others. See my second post below on the topic. Have also recently discovered, that when used with a quality boar brush, Williams lathers easily by itself to deliver a similar quality experience. We are glad that you've found what works best for you, please respect the same for others.

Regarding the Grooming Dept Mallard artisan shaving soap (that we also discussed in the earlier thread below) you should disclose that you were part of the development/testing team for this soap, as noted in the thread below, and so may be biased though congratulated as the soap did sell out.

RayClem, best wishes for a happy Thanksgiving and also for your in-depth analyses that do typically provide a lot of value.

Ingredients of inexpensive creams and soaps - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/ingredients-of-inexpensive-creams-and-soaps.604988/page-3#post-11200059

Also, I have carefully reviewed the VDH ingredients per my much earlier post in Toothpicks thread below:

Revisited Van Der Hagen Deluxe - Garbage!

It is all a matter of perspective. For the price, VDH is a decent soap, but there are much better soaps available. Is it "garbage", well that too is a matter of perspective. Many of us throw food into the garbage that the homeless would love to eat. Likewise, those who cannot afford a better...

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[Oliviamaynard]

Well, yes. Soap is a combination of fatty acids and lye. However, the characteristics of the soap depend on which fatty acids are used and whether the lye is primarily sodium hyroxide (hard soaps) or potassium hydroxide (soft soaps). Some fatty acids do not make the best shaving soaps. Castile soaps primarily from olive oil and Aleppo soaps primarily from laurel oil may be slick, but they generally are not very protective unless other fatty acids are added. Soaps that are high in stearic acid, whether from animal or vegetable sources, generally provide a thicker, richer, more protective shaving lather.

I now have 220 soaps in my collection. I rate each of those soaps. Both Williams and Van der Hagen rate as FAILS on my evaluation system If you want an inexpesive soap that performs much better, purchase a bar of Yardley of London Bath Bar with Cocoa Butter; it rates a C-.

The real magic of a well made shaving soap, however, comes in the added ingredients designed to moisturize, nourish and condition the skin. I love using soaps that rate A and A+.


By the way, Van der Hagen Dexuxe is primarily a synthetic detergent rather than a soap. It is a chemical concoction containing: Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Propylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Myristic Acid, Alcohol, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Water (Aqua), Sodium Hydroxide, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Fragrance (Parfum), Aminomethyl Propanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Chloride, Methyl Ionones, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Curry Red (CI 16035), Acid Yellow 23 (CI 19140).

The only reason it can be called a soap is that it contains a small amount of myristic acid, Shea butter, and sodium hydroxide.

If you think the formula of VDH Deluxe is anything like the formula of a high quality artisan soap, you have not read the labels carefully.

Here is the ingredient list for Grooming Dept Mallard artisan shaving soap. It is one of the finest shaving soaps I have ever used. It costs many times as much as VDH Deluxe, but the shaving experience is exquisite.

Ingredients: Water, Stearic Acid, Duck Fat, Kukui Nut Oil, Goat Milk, Castor Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Cupuacu Butter, Kokum Butter, Glycerin, Jojoba Oil, Myristic Acid, Shea Butter, Sodium Hydroxide, Fragrance, Coconut Milk, Tamanu Oil, Lauryl Laurate, Carnauba Wax, Beeswax, Allantoin, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Betaine, Sodium Lactate, Silk Amino Acids, Oat Amino Acids, Sesame Oil, Macadamia Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Gluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Tocopherols, Silk Peptides.

I.concur. yes I can make photo worthy lather with Vander Hagen, but it really isn't good for ones skin and very drying. Where as the artisan soap doesn't do that.

 

[HoosierTrooper]

OP did ask if anyone disagrees with him, apparently some do.

 

[godlike]

OP did ask if anyone disagrees with him, apparently some do.

OP did ask, but we gotta hammer in the point that Artisan Shaving soaps are bad and we all must only use Arko and one Blade every month because cheaper is inherently better and this is true because I shaved with a Barrister and Mann Soap and I did not notice any difference then my Williams puck so we should just shut down the subforums and have only one.. Because only Arko matters.

(being sarcastic, YMMV for all aspects of wet Shaving)

 

[RayClem]

Grooming Dept soaps often sell out quickly even though they are not inexpensive. Many people think they are worth the purchase price. Although the initial release of Mallard soaps on the GroomingDept.com web site are sold out, it is my understanding that some of the vendors who stock Grooming Dept soaps should have stock soon. Thus, the "unobtainum" issue should be resolved for at least a short while.

Yes, I have stated on quite a few occasions that I serve as one of the testers for Grooming Dept. However, I am only one of many such testers and there are times my opinions have been overruled by other testers.

I used Grooming Dept Mallard as my example in this instance as it is the latest soap I have purchased. However, I could just as easily used soaps from several other artisans. I have also added Kaizen 2e (with emu oil) soaps to my den recently and love the performance.

I do understand that not everyone needs or wants moisturizing and conditioning properties in their shave soap. In that case, some inexpensive soaps like ARKO might work just fine.

Although Grooming Dept soaps are not triple milled pucks, neither are they soft soaps. I use 24-26mm brushes and typically load from the tub for 8-10 seconds. That gives me sufficient soap for five passes (four shaving passes plus a bonus conditioning lather). I read about people who load their brush for 30 seconds. If that is the case, no wonder their tubs of soap do not last. For most people a 5-7 second load time should be adequate or scoop out 1/4 teaspoon of soap from the tub and smash it onto your brush.

 

[ksblazer]

Just out of curiosity Ray

How many shaves do you figure you get out of a tub of Grooming Department?

 

[RayClem]

Just out of curiosity Ray

How many shaves do you figure you get out of a tub of Grooming Department?

I have never finished a tub of any soap., so the best I can do is give you an estimate.

I have 75 soaps in rotation, so I only use a specific soap about three times a year. I shave four days per week since the COVID situation began. At that rate, I will never live long enough to use up any of my soaps.

My best guess is that I could get around 45-50 shaves from a tub of soap with my current practice of making sufficient lather for 5-6 passes. If I were trying to conserve soap, I would make only enough lather for 3 passes and could probably get 80-90 shaves per tub which is 1.25 grams of soap per shave. You should not need more than 2 grams of soap per shave.

I use everything from hard pucks to soft soaps, croaps and creams. I simply adjust my brush loading time to load the amount of soap needed. I do have a few creams and croaps that are so soft that I scoop out the amount needed rather than loading from the tub. I find the loading time required for Grooming Dept soaps to be typical of most artisan soaps. I load for 8-10 seconds for most of them. If you are accustomed to loading hard pucks for 30 seconds, you could easily overload your brush and waste soap.

 

[P1C0]

My skin is very weird with pore-clogging ingredients, and many of the more expensive, artisan, or whatever soaps that I would perhaps like to try out sometimes are full of such ingredients; I am talking about certain oils, butters, waxes, and fats, yeah, they feel great on the face, but over time I deal with increasingly more pimples.

On the other hand, the cheaper soaps tend to be inoffensive, for example, ARKO is basically tallow, saponified palm oil, glycerine, and some mineral oil (paraffinum liquidum), none of which cause me (and most likely anyone) any trouble.

 

[Jimsr]

I’ve been hooked on Hasslinger soaps now for about three years. I like All their varieties. the price is reasonable, and each puck lasts about five months. I habent found any difference between their new formula and their old tallow-based one.

 

[mozartman]

Well, I haven't tried many types of soaps like some members do have in this forum.

However one thing I know for sure. Some very affordable soaps, like Tabac, Proraso, Palmolive and recently Arko are simply more than enough to enjoy a great shave within a price range affordable to all.

The start of soap usage enjoyment is accessible to all in this hobby I guess.

Anyone disagrees?

I agree completely. I only use the well-known standard brands, and they work fine. Of my regular choices, I do find Haslinger to be slightly better than Tabac or Proraso sensitive and new formula vegan Haslinger still slightly better than original tallow Tabac. Tabac also recently went vegan, but I still have tallow Tabac to get through before I try it.

I did wonder if there was a good remaining inexpensive traditional European soap. I tried Cella, and sure enough, that was as good or slightly better than Tabac, too. It remains close to its original 1899 formula: Cocos Nucifera Oil, Tallow, Stearic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Hydroxide, Aqua, Potassium Carbonate, Parfum.

VDH Luxury is by far the cheapest shave soap I've tried that is still OK, especially if one adds glycerin or VDH shave butter to it. Williams Mug is OK too, but imo takes too much time and effort to build a decent lather and is useless if you don't succeed.

So, imo the higher end soaps aren't essential for a good shave or good ingredients.

 

[something better]

I have tried arko did not like the scent and have went through several Palmolive sticks but eventually grew tired of them. I really like shave sticks tabac is one of the best soaps i have used but I feel like it’s overpriced as a stick. I’ve also used several of the Cremo sticks and the Nivea sticks. I think next on my list is La toja.

 

[AlphaFrank75]

I agree with the OP's statement, "The start of soap usage enjoyment is accessible to all in this hobby I guess." Of the budget friendly soaps, I could use Palmolive shave stick as my sole soap, if I had to. But I don't and I find I enjoy shaving much more once I expanded my collection to include A&E, GD, T&S and other premium priced soaps. These soaps have ingredients that make my skin feel better than it ever has.