Soap residue

[Macfrommichigan]

What do you think?

Are boar or horse or badger brushes more likely to retain soap residue than synthetic?

Are hard soaps harder to rinse from a brush than croaps or creams?

Have you noted any specific brands or types that are challenging to rinse from brushes?

 

[azwetshaver]

I've noticed some creams leave more residue than most soaps.

 

[FarmerTan]

Well, for me I have just started rinsing mine in cold water, and after they dry they seem to have less "dandruff"

 

[StillShaving]

I think a hard soap can be harder to rinse out than a cream, though the amount of loading also matters.

Ancedotal report - I have an old, small, India made Gillette synthetic brush that has face lathered Dettol shave cream many times. Always very easy to rinse afterwards. One trip I decided to bring a couple of small soap sticks (repurposed glue sticks) of Stirling and Edwin Jagger Sandlewood. Both took more effort to rinse out, but the harder EJ was especially so. I had to run a lot more water through it and aggitate more to remove the soap. Rinsing the EJ out as if it were Dettol left a lot behind in the brush, but it was also loaded more heavily.

 

[BigJ]

I believe residue is a product of the soap/cream and the hardness of your water! The type of brush fiber is probably less important. However, I am open to analysis from some of the chemists here!

 

[xxvaleria]

To me, natural hair was always porous and held water and product, which required maintenance. The synthetics don't, which is why I have changed almost exclusively to them. No muss, no fuss.

 

[Clay S]

Natural hairs have scale like structures making them up. It's part of what makes them feel different than synthetics. So I would imagine that synthetics are slightly easier to rinse. Some soaps and creams are more likely to leave film in the sink. They are more likely to leave film on your brush.

 

[razorboi]

It's been a while since I used a synthetic, but I recall it being rather easy to rinse clean.
With a badger brush, I take more time, probably more than necessary, because I want to be sure it is squeaky-clean before I hang it up. My worry is that residual soap, especially near the base, will retain moisture and, over time, destroy the brush. I must be doing something right, because one of my badger brushes is well over twenty years old and still looks virtually new.

 

[cryhavoc]

I give all my brushes a good rinse and haven't had any residue build up in any of my boar, badger, horse or synth brushes. I have found that Proraso creams and TOBS creams take longer to rinse out that any of my soaps, but they weren't challenging to rinse by any stretch of the imagination.

 

[tim33z]

I understand Proraso creams and croaps are prone to leaving a white residue on razors, so i guess the brush would also have this "issue" too...

 

[ajkel64]

I understand Proraso creams and croaps are prone to leaving a white residue on razors, so i guess the brush would also have this "issue" too...

I find this as well when I use Proraso, I love the stuff but there is always a white residue after using it. Wipes off the razor easily so I guess a little extra rinsing of the brush to try to clear any of the residue.

 

[Macduff]

From what i’ve noticed, both my boar and badger tend to absorb soap whereas my synthetic will rinse it out but may have some “dandruff” once it dries. I chalk it up to the little residual lather that’s not rinsed away soaking into the natural hairs vs staying on the outside of the synthetic.

 

[Frozenshades]

Can't say it's impossible for scale from hard water to build up as such a dusty/powdery substance. If it's soap your rinsing isn't up to par. I rinse until the water squeezed from the brush runs clear. Then do post shave routine. Then a quicker but still thorough second brush rinse. Probably a full 2-3 minutes under the tap.