So the fun begins dans primitive hard Arkansas.
- Thread starter kfd518
- Start date
It’ll be beautiful when you’re done.
- Thread starter
- #3
Just got done checking it and it it flat as can be.
Getting it lapped out will have to wait until the second week of November. This weekend and next week are for putting meat in the freezer for the family. Honed my knives Monday in preparation for that yearly event.
Tomorrow will be my last shave until next Tuesday as well due to the aforementioned event. I’ve gotten so used to no scruff as of late we will see how well I handle having anything besides a moustache again.
Getting it lapped out will have to wait until the second week of November. This weekend and next week are for putting meat in the freezer for the family. Honed my knives Monday in preparation for that yearly event.
Tomorrow will be my last shave until next Tuesday as well due to the aforementioned event. I’ve gotten so used to no scruff as of late we will see how well I handle having anything besides a moustache again.
Nice looking stone. Subscribed.
Here’s a 9x5 that I lapped. Been wanting a translucent too but haven’t been able to get an answer about one.
- Thread starter
- #6
Killer. Following
It was taken to 600 sic then I put a knife to it for a bit
Once the stone is flat and smooth it is quick and easy to change the stone’s face. You can finish one side to 600 and the other side burnished, 1 or 2k for a nice 2 grit stone.
If it is flat and smooth, lap with 600 loose Silicon Carbide on a steel cookie sheet on a flat piece of cement floor. The stone face should be flat and smooth with a uniform mat finish. If not then you need to drop to a lower grit to remove the defect, (remove all the stone to the bottom of the defect).
Try finishing a razor on the loose 600 grit and test shave. Then re-finish on a new sheet of 600 Wet & Dry on the cookie sheet on the floor, using your body weight.
600 W&D is a bit finer than loose silicon carbide. Hone a razor on the 600 face, if you like it, you are golden. Or you can run up through the grits to 2k to polish the face and try an edge at each grit. If you don’t like a grit finish you can move up in grit or drop back to 600.
To burnish, I use a large antique carbon steel cleaver, a large cleaver, kitchen knife or plane blade allows you to grip the tool and apply pressure with your body weight, again work on the floor.
Work about a ½ to ¾ inch at a time back and forth with pressure, you will feel the stone smooth out where it is being worked. Overlap your strokes until you have covered the whole surface.
Repeat the burnishing process and see if the stone feels smoother. The stone face will become smoother with use, also slower and polish finer. This is where a 2 grit, 600 and finer or burnished stone faces comes in handy. Each stone is a bit different, and a lot will depend on the quality of finish on the razor, and hardness of the steel when you jump to the Ark.
A good Ark is a bit biting keen without being harsh. You can maintain an edge on an Ark for a long time.
If it is flat and smooth, lap with 600 loose Silicon Carbide on a steel cookie sheet on a flat piece of cement floor. The stone face should be flat and smooth with a uniform mat finish. If not then you need to drop to a lower grit to remove the defect, (remove all the stone to the bottom of the defect).
Try finishing a razor on the loose 600 grit and test shave. Then re-finish on a new sheet of 600 Wet & Dry on the cookie sheet on the floor, using your body weight.
600 W&D is a bit finer than loose silicon carbide. Hone a razor on the 600 face, if you like it, you are golden. Or you can run up through the grits to 2k to polish the face and try an edge at each grit. If you don’t like a grit finish you can move up in grit or drop back to 600.
To burnish, I use a large antique carbon steel cleaver, a large cleaver, kitchen knife or plane blade allows you to grip the tool and apply pressure with your body weight, again work on the floor.
Work about a ½ to ¾ inch at a time back and forth with pressure, you will feel the stone smooth out where it is being worked. Overlap your strokes until you have covered the whole surface.
Repeat the burnishing process and see if the stone feels smoother. The stone face will become smoother with use, also slower and polish finer. This is where a 2 grit, 600 and finer or burnished stone faces comes in handy. Each stone is a bit different, and a lot will depend on the quality of finish on the razor, and hardness of the steel when you jump to the Ark.
A good Ark is a bit biting keen without being harsh. You can maintain an edge on an Ark for a long time.
- Thread starter
- #10
1 sided stone, the plan is 600 grit finish though. I do not believe I am going to burnish it unless it negatively affects my edges. I will play w it to get it to my liking and take notes as if I was new to DE and trying new blades….. thank you for the thoughtful post though. Unfortunately I’ll have to use my leathwork granite slab as a backer for my steel sheet I don’t thing the is a square foot of flat concrete around this hous.
Does it sit flat on a bench when you try to use it?
- Thread starter
- #12
Yeah. I have a few found in the wild type stones, and usually carve out a wooden base to match the shape of the stone.
I keep wanting a Dans primitive translucent or Hard black... but I've got that monster I won on EBay and It doesn't get used enough I could justify another...
As cool as they look... a nice square cut stone is just so much easier to use.
Then again I haven't made a nice base like Legion; I just rest it on a coiled towel or something when using it.
As cool as they look... a nice square cut stone is just so much easier to use.
Then again I haven't made a nice base like Legion; I just rest it on a coiled towel or something when using it.
I had to make a wooden base with little leather risers inside that keep the stone level for my primitive translucent from Dan. It was kind of a pain to make but not too bad. I had to smooth it some with a diamond plate but it was rocking in the base without the leather risers. I've thought about selling it but it's 4½"x 5½" so it's perfect for plane irons and chisels..
Or just glue pieces or strips of Craft Foam or Yoga mats to the stone with Silicone, so it sits flat in a stone holder. Or just use small blobs of Silicone. I just build up the corners.
Both are completely removable and take but a few minutes to do.
Craft foam, yoga mat or silicone can easily be sanded flat with a sheet of 220 sandpaper.
Both are completely removable and take but a few minutes to do.
Craft foam, yoga mat or silicone can easily be sanded flat with a sheet of 220 sandpaper.
- Thread starter
- #17
Well I have never run into this issue before. I have lapped many stones in my life and always been able to bring them level.
My pan warped the same as others have mentioned previously. I had my son press it flat against the glass plate to keep it level. This thing is now low around all edges. I have used figure 8’s, straight, corner to corner. It honestly seems I get the best material removal at 320 and above Sic. Any suggestions?
My pan warped the same as others have mentioned previously. I had my son press it flat against the glass plate to keep it level. This thing is now low around all edges. I have used figure 8’s, straight, corner to corner. It honestly seems I get the best material removal at 320 and above Sic. Any suggestions?
- Thread starter
- #18
Did that stone start out flat?
- Thread starter
- #20
