Pictures seen on the internet.
Slightly warped SR
- Thread starter Jarrod12345
- Start date
Warps are not fixed, they can't be un-warped.
Honestly, that warp is minor, very common. Perhaps not with that brand but overall it's pretty common. Handling the blade on the stone correctly will achieve a shave ready edge. Not hard to do, nothing special needed, other than paying attention to keeping the bevel on the stone.
A bevel that is uneven, dimensionally, from toe to heel is also common and not a problem either.
Honestly, that warp is minor, very common. Perhaps not with that brand but overall it's pretty common. Handling the blade on the stone correctly will achieve a shave ready edge. Not hard to do, nothing special needed, other than paying attention to keeping the bevel on the stone.
A bevel that is uneven, dimensionally, from toe to heel is also common and not a problem either.
There is a good thread on coticule.be about this topic. Run this search on Google:
- site:coticule.be how to hone concave part of warped blade
- Raising the heel for convex side
- Lowering the heel for the concave side - so the middle of the blade makes contact with the hone
I would grind the BACK to straighten the edges.
I believe OP is in darkest Queensland*, so sending things back and forth across the Pacific might get a bit expensive!
* May not actually be all that dark.
* May not actually be all that dark.
I have a friend (actually the man who started me in SRs) that has a Russian razor that had a similar warp. He honed it up and shaved with it, using a rolling x stroke. It wasn't his best razor by any stretch, but it shaved OK from what I remember him saying about it. The bevel just looked wonky.
- Thread starter
- #29
Well I have good news. I purchased some stones (shapton glass 8k HC and naniwa SS 12k). The naniwa SS hasn’t arrived yet but the SGHC8k has. I reworked the razor on stones starting from naniwa chosera 1000, proceeding to suehiro ouka 3k, then morihei hishiboshi 4K, then king kds 6000 grit (bought a shapton glass 6k but it hadnt arrived yet to do the progression) and then finally finished it on the shapton glass HC 8k. Finally after all of this, the razor was stropped. I have since shaved with the razor and have found that it shaved MUCH better than the way it did when I received it. Apparently ralf finishes on a naniwa 12k SS, but clearly he either rushed the job that day, or maybe it fell through the cracks of his quality control. Regardless, the razor shaves. And quite nicely. Keen for the naniwa SS to get here so I can throw it on that!
I finally found the Coticule.be thread about honing warped blades - now on the Shaving Universe site. Google this:
Bart:
- Razor sharpening class: Warp - how it affects a razor
Bart:
- This razor requires the X-stroke on one side and the rolling X-stroke at the other. By shifting the points of contact at the side of the hone, all of the edge will at some point during the stroke touch the hone. In a manner of speaking, the hone follows the curve in the blade.
- This is the reason why no one ever notices warp in a smiling razors. One needs to adopt a rolling X-stroke anyway, so the warp goes unnoticed.
- On razors with smiling edge, I always need a rolling X. But on warped razors with a straight edge, yes, I often need the regular X-stroke on one side and a rolling X-stroke on the other. With many honing hours on the counter, I don't really have to think about it. I always make a few slow strokes, paying careful attention to the ripple of fluid, right in front of the edge. That sort of "calibrates" my stroke for that razor. I regularly slow down while honing, to check if I 'm still making my strokes right.
- bart so if one side is making full contact with x stroke. The other side the heal and toe are not making full contact. Would you use a roll x on one side and a flat x on the otherside. so basicly one side rolling x and on the way back flat x. I have come across this . so i have just rolling x on both sides, i have considerd doing just that flat x one side then roll the other . I just was'nt sure?
- The spine stays in contact with the hone at all times, you tilt the razor so the toe is slightly off the stone and as the stroke progresses you bring the toe end down and slightly lift the heel.
- We are talking slight here, no yawning gaps, it is very very important that the edge still contacts the hone on a fairly wide strip
- what I do is try to visualise a strip down the side of my hone, the side the razor is on, say about 25-30mm wide, and use a rolling X stroke that keeps the blade contacting the hone on this strip, so you are in effect using a 25-30mm wide hone, the extra width of the actual hone doesn't effect this, because you are not using it, if you do this you should find the bevel is more even.
- Ray taught me a superb method for straightening up a bevel, which he may like to share with you also.
- I like to finish my blades on a 25mm hone now so it compensates for any imperfections in the configuration of the edge. Even if the blades edge is perfectly flat I still use an "X" stroke on the blade.
- Actually, once you start doing the roling-x you do lift the spine but it is more like you just think about it and it happens rather than actually lifting it and watching it move.
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