What's new

@Slash McCoy or other Method Honers

I have been using a modified Method, finish on Naniwa Super Stone -> CrOx on 4/5 oz veg tanned leather -> .25 Diamond spray on 4/5 oz veg tanned leather -> .125 CBN on 4/5 oz veg tanned leather. All glued to 1/2" Oak. I have received .25" balsa from Hobby Lobby and 3" X 12" (3) cast acrylic from TAP is due any time.

Question is: In the Method the Method Documentation, it stated that the balsa is to be lapped. What do you use to lap the balsa?

-Mel
 
I put down wet/dry paper on a granite surface plate. I stroke (slide) the balsa atop the paper. I mark it with pencil to make sure I get down to any little grooves or recesses. I go from 400 to 600 paper, maybe 800. You can strop a knife on the balsa to refine it a bit more.
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
@Eastcoast30 has it correct although I find no need to strop a knife.

@Old Traf once you get your pasted balsa strops set up, before your bevel(s) touch the pasted balsa strops, you should go back to the Naniwa and remove the convexity in the bevel(s) caused by stropping on pasted leather strops. After that, never use a pasted leather strop if you want the pasted balsa to properly do its thing.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
I have been using a modified Method, finish on Naniwa Super Stone -> CrOx on 4/5 oz veg tanned leather -> .25 Diamond spray on 4/5 oz veg tanned leather -> .125 CBN on 4/5 oz veg tanned leather. All glued to 1/2" Oak. I have received .25" balsa from Hobby Lobby and 3" X 12" (3) cast acrylic from TAP is due any time.

Question is: In the Method the Method Documentation, it stated that the balsa is to be lapped. What do you use to lap the balsa?

-Mel
Everything is explained in the threads, including the reasons for each step and every specification. You are not using a modified Method. You are doing it the way you want to do it. The Method is at its core, a very arbitrary and dogmatic canon that is either followed, or not followed. That's really the whole point, to take decision making and artistry and freestyling completely out of the picture. This philosophy is even more important than the actual specs and steps.
 
Everybody finds their own way here. @Old Traf, you follow a progression that takes you to a final finish. That final finish may be at the same micron level as "the method". A basic difference between your process and "the method" is that you use leather and this may introduce a slightly convex bevel, maybe not. And there is a certain satisfaction that comes from defining a process that works best for you.
 
Everything is explained in the threads, including the reasons for each step and every specification. You are not using a modified Method. You are doing it the way you want to do it. The Method is at its core, a very arbitrary and dogmatic canon that is either followed, or not followed. That's really the whole point, to take decision making and artistry and freestyling completely out of the picture. This philosophy is even more important than the actual specs and steps.

Yes I know, that's why I asked the question. I will be following the Method which that is why I ordered paste, balsa and plastic. I will probably experiment on the finish, i.e., coticule versus Naniya 12K versus films versus Shapton Glass 16K, then to the pasted balsa strops.
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
You've linked to a great, thoughtful, useful PDF there. But it is buried in the middle of a 62 page thread.
Yes, because to properly achieve the sharpest of edges you need to understand not just what to do but why. The PDF is a summary of the threat up to that point. A summary is no substitute for the full information supplied in the thread.
 
The problem with people, like me, that had some previous experience of sharpening "things", "things" being knives, scissors, tools, etc, is that we try to go straight to the bit we don't know, instead of following the recipe laid out in The Method. We substitute some of the recipe with previous learning and get better results, but not optimal.

Previous experience has taught us what work and what doesn't. Problem is that razors are different in a few fundamental ways. In theory and in practise, honing a razor is much easier than free-hand honing a knife. That's if you do it right.

End result is that it takes longer to get the consistent result we aim for, it's now a learning process instead of a "follow the recipe".

So what have I learned?

Forget what you know, save yourself a lot of frustration and disappointment, stick to the recipe, it works, every time. If it doesn't you are not following the recipe.
 
Top Bottom