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(Slaps link to thread) You Can Fit So Much Wrong In This Journal

Last night's shave:
RazoRock BlackHawk V2
Schick Proline P-30 (?)
Gentleman Jon's badger brush
Snurdle of KMF/shot of Aveeno Therapeutic/5 drops glycerin

All steep, all ATG, 80% BBS, alum said I'm still using too much pressure on blade and too many passes. I agree.
 
Last night's shave:
RazoRock BlackHawk V2
Schick Proline P-30 (? plus 1)
Gentleman Jon's badger brush
Snurdle of KMF/shot of Aveeno Therapeutic/5 drops glycerin

Skipped alum block. Shaved 2 minutes off shave. Missed a few spots. Started steep and ended shallow.
 
Moving forward using @Esox's advice from this page. Didn't quite happen as planned, last night, though.

Last night's shave:
RazoRock BlackHawk V2
Schick Proline P-30 (? +2)
Gentleman Jon's badger brush
Snurdle of KMF

Started with steep swipes around jawline and chin. Tried pushing hard capwards and shaving at wicked shallow angle on neck. Had fears I'd press too hard on carotid and have a bloodchoke reaction. Didn't. Had a "know idea what I'm doing shave."

Moved back to steep and finished up. Missed some wiry neck hairs and face felt raw. Too many passes, too much pressure. Alum was Ren Hoek to my neck and face's Stimpson J. Cat

KMF by itself is great for up to three pass shaves. Seems to lose slickness of prolonged search and destroy missions.

Got 85 may be 86% BBS with lots of irritation.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Ambassador
Welcome to the journals section!

Started steep and ended shallow.
I do it the other way around. Start shallow and end steep. The longer the growth the shallower I start.

Try starting with the cap against your skin and slowly rotate the handle downwards until you feel the blade start to cut. It will take a few shaves before you find the right angle for you, if you can. It might be that you're just better off shaving steep, many are.
 
Welcome to the journals section!
Thanks. It's a goldmine over here. I'm hoping that; if wise people can learn more from fools than the other way around; that I'm returning the favor.

I do it the other way around. Start shallow and end steep. The longer the growth the shallower I start.
Thanks for the tip. I'm working towards the 22 hour BBS results experienced by rabidus and maybe you. Had about 11 hours before a bunch of ingrowns cropped under my rightside jaw, but they're being evicted tonight and I'll start shallow. Maybe on the face so as to not worry if I'm giving myself a Spock pinch with the top cap.

Try starting with the cap against your skin and slowly rotate the handle downwards until you feel the blade start to cut. It will take a few shaves before you find the right angle for you, if you can.
That's a plan. Will see what I can do with that tonight.

It might be that you're just better off shaving steep, many are.
I'm hoping that's not the case. My endeavors are towards the superficial following:

• Long-lasting BBS shave on face and neck
• Skin no longer looking like it's been dunked in bowls of famished piranhas and chips of dry ice
• Smug, immature feeling of satisfaction that comes from getting great results from doing everything 'wrong'

I'll happily accept the first two results if/when I can get them, but all ATG seems most likely to deliver.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Ambassador
I'm working towards the 22 hour BBS results experienced by rabidus and maybe you. Had about 11 hours before a bunch of ingrowns cropped under my rightside jaw, but they're being evicted tonight and I'll start shallow. Maybe on the face so as to not worry if I'm giving myself a Spock pinch with the top cap.
12 hours with my Grande and any decent blade is the norm for the BBS finish. With my MMOC and a fresh blade, almost 19 hours, but typically, 14 is the norm.


I'm hoping that's not the case. My endeavors are towards the superficial following:

• Long-lasting BBS shave on face and neck
• Skin no longer looking like it's been dunked in bowls of famished piranhas and chips of dry ice
• Smug, immature feeling of satisfaction that comes from getting great results from doing everything 'wrong'

I'll happily accept the first two results if/when I can get them, but all ATG seems most likely to deliver.
To have a BBS finish, a true BBS finish where you can feel no growth in any direction even with considerable pressure, you have to shave ATG. Theres no way around it. At the same time, the only need for a BBS finish like that is a personal one. Many dont feel the need and I respect that, but some of us do want that. It can be had, it just takes time and practice.

I believe that can be accomplished with virtually any razor as well, only the time it takes to get there while maintaining the same comfort level is the difference.

Make comfort your goal. As you start to achieve that goal your shaves will improve on their own. In a few months you'll be wondering what all the fuss was about.
 
Last night's shave:
RazoRock BlackHawk V2
Schick Proline P-30 (? +3)
Gentleman Jon's badger brush
Snurdle of KMF/shot of Aveeno Therapeutic/5 drops glycerin

Started shallow with capwards pressure behind jaw. Felt diggy and scritchy. Moved to left cheek and repeated. So did feeling I got it wrong.

Went steep, made big ATG swipes everywhere. After too many swipes, remembered buffing at swipe speed and listening/feeling for clear. Alum said “Nice try, Bucko“

Next time, will try buffing only and retry shallow after I can hang of buffing clean in timely manner.
 
12 hours with my Grande and any decent blade is the norm for the BBS finish. With my MMOC and a fresh blade, almost 19 hours, but typically, 14 is the norm.
Oh. So only rabidus and his ATT SE1 are running around with 22-23 whisker-free hours? I'm aiming for that.

To have a BBS finish, a true BBS finish where you can feel no growth in any direction even with considerable pressure, you have to shave ATG. Theres no way around it. At the same time, the only need for a BBS finish like that is a personal one. Many dont feel the need and I respect that, but some of us do want that. It can be had, it just takes time and practice.
Going for that. Thought I couldn't get it without ATG shaving due to deficit in my technique.

Make comfort your goal. As you start to achieve that goal your shaves will improve on their own. In a few months you'll be wondering what all the fuss was about.
That's where the BBS comes in. I can do shaves that get me alum-block approval and seemingly uniformly trimmed whiskers, but it'll be itchy the next day if I do things like look down or perspire.

So I've got the goals to make the next shave more comfortable (thorough buffing versus dramatic swipes followed by buffing to clean up everything left behind) and the long term goal of making the same motions at a much more shallow angle to further reduce irritation. Maybe that steel V3 Hawk will be available by then…
 

Esox

I didnt know
Ambassador
Went steep, made big ATG swipes everywhere. After too many swipes, remembered buffing at swipe speed and listening/feeling for clear. Alum said “Nice try, Bucko“

Next time, will try buffing only and retry shallow after I can hang of buffing clean in timely manner.
Next time, focus on your first few strokes done at differing angles. Stick with the one that feels the most comfortable then do the same for pressure applied.

Using a steep angle, much less pressure is needed.

Make comfort your #1 priority.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Ambassador
Oh. So only rabidus and his ATT SE1 are running around with 22-23 whisker-free hours? I'm aiming for that.
There have been polls around the forum about a BBS finish. Most members dont even try for a BBS finish and among those that do, very few of us try for the maximum duration.


Going for that. Thought I couldn't get it without ATG shaving due to deficit in my technique.
Technique is constantly evolving, even my own, on every shave. My shaves are consistently very good to great. I rarely have a poor shave but I sometimes do.


That's where the BBS comes in. I can do shaves that get me alum-block approval and seemingly uniformly trimmed whiskers, but it'll be itchy the next day if I do things like look down or perspire.

So I've got the goals to make the next shave more comfortable (thorough buffing versus dramatic swipes followed by buffing to clean up everything left behind) and the long term goal of making the same motions at a much more shallow angle to further reduce irritation. Maybe that steel V3 Hawk will be available by then…
I initially had some itching too. I came back to DE shaving from using my Mach 3 one day and a rotary electric the next. I never had a BBS shave and I dont think my skin was use to having one. I think theres an adjustment period for that and I'd be surprised if it didnt go away.

Sweat sting, burn or itchiness is a different effect of the same thing, at least it was for me. I remember cutting the grass one hot day and man, my neck was so itchy I had to stop and wipe the sweat from it, firmly. That has also stopped, but, if I was to have a close shave and immediately go out into the hot weather and work up a heavy sweat I could still expect some sting or itch. When you get hot and start sweating, all your pores open up to help you cool off. Sweat is basically salt water that can be an irritant to any type of inflammation. If I wait 15-20 minutes after a shave for my skin to tighten up, I dont have any issues.
 
I started shaving before bed when learning wet shaving so stubble itch and sweat itch seem distinct from each other.

Didn't shave last night, but started chasing down a GEM format razor head.

@Esox, I saw ATT has a 'Windsor' SE1 baseplate that has lather holes instead of slots or an open comb. No side pic with a blade in it, so no idea how compares to standard SE1, but it is adorable.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Ambassador
@Esox, I saw ATT has a 'Windsor' SE1 baseplate that has lather holes instead of slots or an open comb. No side pic with a blade in it, so no idea how compares to standard SE1, but it is adorable.
The SE1 has moved to the Windsor line. I'm not sure of the differences between it and the original, but I suspect they're minor.

If you're looking for a GEM, try a Bullet Tip and load it with PTFE blades. Bullet Tips can be had for a song. A WTB in the B/S/T would most likely turn one up in no time.

If you like it and are satisfied with the GEM blades, take your time and find a nice MMOC. Bear in mind that if replating might be a future option, no one that replates razors, that I know of, will strip the chrome plating from a GEM razor. If you might want to have one replated, a gold one is the only real option.
 
Last night's shave:
RazoRock BlackHawk V2
Schick Proline P-30 (? +4)
Gentleman Jon's badger brush
Snurdle of KMF/shot of Aveeno Therapeutic/5 drops glycerin

Tried all steep with buffing strokes. The RazoRock BlackHawk v2; an unstoppable force as a daily driver; was handed the keys to Tug City with an extra day’s growth. I did try a few different directions. XTG was least irritating and least effective. The überlather protected and cushioned.

Esox’s keys to the Kingdom of Smoov were tucked a few rooms away on the phone charger and re-read this morning - my recollection of detail last night will nominate me for no admirable rewards.
 
The SE1 has moved to the Windsor line. I'm not sure of the differences between it and the original, but I suspect they're minor.
The lather slots of the Classic SE1 are replaced with a series of perfectly round holes. Lather tiger traps?

If you're looking for a GEM, try a Bullet Tip and load it with PTFE blades. Bullet Tips can be had for a song. A WTB in the B/S/T would most likely turn one up in no time.
I’m pretending as strongly as I can that my urge to acquire new toys before mastering the ones in my possession is controllable. Thankfully, Matt at ATT was understanding.

If you like it and are satisfied with the GEM blades, take your time and find a nice MMOC. Bear in mind that if replating might be a future option, no one that replates razors, that I know of, will strip the chrome plating from a GEM razor. If you might want to have one replated, a gold one is the only real option.
My woulda/coulda/shoulda would’ve been that G1 - All swanky looking and none of the blade hidden by stops.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Ambassador
The lather slots of the Classic SE1 are replaced with a series of perfectly round holes. Lather tiger traps?
That wont bother me. My lather is usually so thin its running down my fingers.


My woulda/coulda/shoulda would’ve been that G1 - All swanky looking and none of the blade hidden by stops.
unnamed.jpg

Hmmm. Not sure what to make of that. You will notice however, the the corners of GEM blades arent rounded like they are on AC blades. Theres a reason GEM razors have blade stops. ;)

Its difficult to tell for sure, but there doesnt look to be very much gap in that razor. With the blades edge set so far back, I assume so the corners of the blade dont cause cuts, that it would be a mild shaver thats angle dependent. Its very different from the MMOC and even the Bullet Tip.

Bullet Tip.
IMG_1740.jpg IMG_1741.jpg

MMOC.
IMG_2731.jpg IMG_2732.jpg

The only problem I've had with the Bullet Tip, which isnt even really a problem, is that when used with the cap flat against my skin, because the cap is completely flat, it can vacuum lock to my skin and even become stuck lol. Using it slightly steeper solves that issue so thats how I use it. The MMOC, because its cap has a different shape, that doesnt happen.

The blade stops also have a very good use, besides the obvious. When shaving the upper lip, you'd be amazed how easy it is to shave tight against the base of the nostrils and around the lower lip line L-R or R-L. I've really come to appreciate the blade stops.
 
That wont bother me. My lather is usually so thin its running down my fingers.
With the Windsor SE1, they’ll escape through the tiger traps to the safety of wherever you lean on the issue.

Hmmm. Not sure what to make of that. You will notice however, the the corners of GEM blades arent rounded like they are on AC blades. Theres a reason GEM razors have blade stops. ;)
Is that reason the user’s safety and comfort or because GEM/Eveready/ASR didn’t want to make intricate assembly mechanisms like Above The Tie did? Probably both.

Its difficult to tell for sure, but there doesnt look to be very much gap in that razor. With the blades edge set so far back, I assume so the corners of the blade dont cause cuts, that it would be a mild shaver thats angle dependent. Its very different from the MMOC and even the Bullet Tip.

Bullet Tip.
View attachment 1074302

MMOC.
View attachment 1074304
So should I a GEM-bladed razor to my overflowing collection (after the RazoRock BlackHawk V2 and FaTip Grande, everything else is excess…), your descriptions make the strong possible case for the MMOC or one of its tributes from Eveready.

The blade stops also have a very good use, besides the obvious. When shaving the upper lip, you'd be amazed how easy it is to shave tight against the base of the nostrils and around the lower lip line L-R or R-L. I've really come to appreciate the blade stops.
Excellent! With the RazoRock BlackHawk v2, Ive been spoiled by how cleanly it shaves the mustache and sideburn areas ATG. The XTG was slightly scary around the nostrils even though the same is no scare and even pleasant with DE and cartridge.

Found another AC style blade to try. Hoping they’re the Proline slayer and not the “Feather‘s Artist Club is the leader for a reason” reminder.

Amazon had a third party seller shipping a box of 50 for $9USD, so I’ll find out when they’re here.

in the meantime, going to try aiming for that DFS/DCS shave you mentioned and find non-destructive ways of getting better buffing, shaving shallow, and buffing shallow.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Ambassador
Probably both.
I would assume both yes. The corners of the PTFE blade are sticky sharp.


your descriptions make the strong possible case for the MMOC or one of its tributes from Eveready.
Its a great razor like the Ferrari F40 is a great car. Both will get you in serious trouble quickly if you're not an experienced driver.


your descriptions make the strong possible case for the MMOC or one of its tributes from Eveready.
I've only used two GEM razors, the Bullet Tip and the MMOC. As I understand it, and from studying the differences, the ClugPruf should be almost as efficient and possibly smoother, but I see the MMOC as the King of the GEM's.

I'm only interested in a single AC blade for all SC format razors except the SE2. The Proline. If it outperforms or even equals the GEM PTFE, I'm in. If it doesnt, I'm not.

The SE2 on the other hand, may call for a milder blade than the Proline. If faced with that conundrum, I'd test different blades until I found the one that suited me best.
 
Last night's shave:
RazoRock BlackHawk V2
Schick Proline P-30 (? +5)
Gentleman Jon's badger brush
Snurdle of KMF/shot of Aveeno Therapeutic/5 drops glycerin

Added a little more water to teh überlather. Felt subtly different, but drippier or slicker.

First pass steep, smooth ATG. Rinsed clean, reapplied lather. Brush might be finally breaking in or lather was silkier than normal.

Second pass shallow, attempted smooth ATG. Could get that sensation of feeling the stubble cut without feeling the blade, but not consistently. Great start, though. Rinsed clean, reapplied lather.

Third strike, reapplied lather, tried some shallow buffing on areas where wiry hairs sometimes find their way past the razor. If they were there, I got ‘em. And then my ambition and lack of skill with shallow angles brought me some irritation when I expanded places to shave.

Alum bloc lit up my patches of vaulting ambition, but it was an improvement all things considered.
 
I would assume both yes. The corners of the PTFE blade are sticky sharp.
I like sticky sharp on show-off edges on my chef knife and folding pocketknives, but probably wouldn’t on the ungovernable corner of a face-scraper. Thanks GEM designers, wherever you may be!

Its a great razor like the Ferrari F40 is a great car. Both will get you in serious trouble quickly if you're not an experienced driver.
I was promised Koenigsegg or better. J/K. I’m not an experienced driver, but have watched several seasons of Top Gear UK…

I've only used two GEM razors, the Bullet Tip and the MMOC. As I understand it, and from studying the differences, the ClugPruf should be almost as efficient and possibly smoother, but I see the MMOC as the King of the GEM's.
You may be right about it’s status amongst GEM SEs; and it’s certainly king of your horde; but you won’t know until you catch ‘em all. At the same time, I’ll summon all my naive arrogance to assume your MMOC is more efficient than a GEM Jr Lightweight.

I'm only interested in a single AC blade for all SC format razors except the SE2. The Proline. If it outperforms or even equals the GEM PTFE, I'm in. If it doesnt, I'm not.
Proline P-30 is a heck of a performer. I’m getting more shaves out of one than you’ve been getting from GEM PTFE blades (they also sell uncoated stainless BTW) and I’ve been using it all wrong except a few, tentative passes last night. But there’s so many out there, so I want to try them. Also, 50 AC style blades for $9USD made wanting to try very persuasiv.

The SE2 on the other hand, may call for a milder blade than the Proline. If faced with that conundrum, I'd test different blades until I found the one that suited me best.
It all comes down to which one ATT will plate for you
 

Esox

I didnt know
Ambassador
I like sticky sharp on show-off edges on my chef knife and folding pocketknives, but probably wouldn’t on the ungovernable corner of a face-scraper. Thanks GEM designers, wherever you may be!
Sticky sharp is good, as long as its treated with the proper respect.


I was promised Koenigsegg or better. J/K. I’m not an experienced driver, but have watched several seasons of Top Gear UK…
In that case, perhaps the SE2 is for you! lol

I have 220GB of the original Top Gear in my external drive. All 22 seasons and all specials and extras. Great show!


You may be right about it’s status amongst GEM SEs; and it’s certainly king of your horde; but you won’t know until you catch ‘em all. At the same time, I’ll summon all my naive arrogance to assume your MMOC is more efficient than a GEM Jr Lightweight.
I like efficiency. The MMOC satisfies that so I dont feel I need more. I might like 'nicer' though. The MMOC is a utilitarian tool that looks, feels and acts like it was made by old school Soviets lol. It aint pretty but it works.


Proline P-30 is a heck of a performer. I’m getting more shaves out of one than you’ve been getting from GEM PTFE blades (they also sell uncoated stainless BTW) and I’ve been using it all wrong except a few, tentative passes last night. But there’s so many out there, so I want to try them. Also, 50 AC style blades for $9USD made wanting to try very persuasiv.
The only thing I refuse to even tolerate from a blade is harshness. If they're smoother than a PTFE the first shave, I'm in. I'm confident they will be.


It all comes down to which one ATT will plate for you
Thats a question thats been on my mind, but I'm not prepared to ask it yet lol.
 
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