Show us your favourite Jnats for knives and tools

[cotedupy]

This is strapping a piece of buttered toast to the back of a cat and dropping it. The logic just spins and there is never an answer.

Excellent! I'd not heard that before.


(But also... polishing is FUN! There's no problem here.)

 

[PLANofMAN]

What frustrates me about these knives, is that they are meant to be polished on stones. But the iron is so reactive it's meant to build a patina. But you can’t keep the patina if you polish on stones.... But but but...

This is strapping a piece of buttered toast to the back of a cat and dropping it. The logic just spins and there is never an answer.

I only have one high end Japanese knife, and my stone collection doesn't go high enough in grit for me to trust using it on them. I had the original seller (I purchased it new) put an edge on it, which he did, and it cut like a razor blade through silk when I got it.

My wife and I have been using it for about six months now, and the edge is still as keen as the day it arrived, if not more so. I'm ashamed to admit that I treat it more or less like a straight razor, and just strop it daily on one of my cheaper razor strops, which keeps the edge, while allowing a patina to form. Is this a mistake?

The knife is an Itsuo Doi nakiri.

 

[Legion]

I only have one high end Japanese knife, and my stone collection doesn't go high enough in grit for me to trust using it on them. I had the original seller (I purchased it new) put an edge on it, which he did, and it cut like a razor blade through silk when I got it.

My wife and I have been using it for about six months now, and the edge is still as keen as the day it arrived, if not more so. I'm ashamed to admit that I treat it more or less like a straight razor, and just strop it daily on one of my cheaper razor strops, which keeps the edge, while allowing a patina to form. Is this a mistake?

The knife is an Itsuo Doi nakiri.View attachment 1588143

Stropping on plain leather will not cause any harm, and if you have kept it going for six months that way then that is great. Similarly, a patina is a good thing, since it protects against red, active rust. Sounds like you are doing fine.

 

[cotedupy]

I only have one high end Japanese knife, and my stone collection doesn't go high enough in grit for me to trust using it on them. I had the original seller (I purchased it new) put an edge on it, which he did, and it cut like a razor blade through silk when I got it.

My wife and I have been using it for about six months now, and the edge is still as keen as the day it arrived, if not more so. I'm ashamed to admit that I treat it more or less like a straight razor, and just strop it daily on one of my cheaper razor strops, which keeps the edge, while allowing a patina to form. Is this a mistake?

The knife is an Itsuo Doi nakiri.View attachment 1588143

Cool! Seriously interesting profile too; some belly and what looks like a slight reverse tanto tip, almost a bunka x nakiri cross.

And no - certainly not a mistake, do whatever works best for you! And patina is always good to help prevent rust.

Couple of things to note... You don't necessarily need high grit stones to sharpen Japanese knives, again - it's kinda a matter of personal preference, but anything from about 500 up is perfectly acceptable. And when you do sharpen it; you don't need to remove the patina by laying the main bevel flat on the stone, edge sharpening should be done with the knife raised to about 15-20 degrees, otherwise you won't hit the apex.

(I'm sure you knew that second point, but just in case.)

 

[rhgg2]

So, I have this cute shobudani iromono koppa:

It's about 130 x 65. I got it at auction for $15US with no descriptor other than "shobudani" from someone whose other inventory was planks of wood. It is extremely soft, and as you can see also riddled with su and so no use as a razor stone.

I have basically no experience with kitchen knife sharpening but I figured I'd see how it went for that. I watched @cotedupy's nice video from the kitchen knife sharpening thread and had at it. First I tried my Shapton GS 1k to get my hand in a bit. Once I had the vague idea I switched to the jnat.

Well, if I were writing my own auction description I would definitely say "abrasive mud comes out quickly". It seems to be about as fast as the Shapton 1k. I managed to get our very un-fancy X45CrMoV15 kitchen knives pretty sharp on the first go. It is soft enough as to be already visibly dished.

However I have a stupid question! I have no whetstone holders, as I balance my razor hones on what I have to hand, which is a collection of vibration damping hi-fi footers. But when you start heavying a knife on there something sturdier is in order lest it collapses or bounces across the table. I don't think whetstone holders will hold something this small plus I don't really want to buy one. What else can I use to hold my silly tiny koppa on place while whaling away at a knife on it?

 

[cotedupy]

So, I have this cute shobudani iromono koppa:

View attachment 1747109
It's about 130 x 65. I got it at auction for $15US with no descriptor other than "shobudani" from someone whose other inventory was planks of wood. It is extremely soft, and as you can see also riddled with su and so no use as a razor stone.

I have basically no experience with kitchen knife sharpening but I figured I'd see how it went for that. I watched @cotedupy's nice video from the kitchen knife sharpening thread and had at it. First I tried my Shapton GS 1k to get my hand in a bit. Once I had the vague idea I switched to the jnat.

Well, if I were writing my own auction description I would definitely say "abrasive mud comes out quickly". It seems to be about as fast as the Shapton 1k. I managed to get our very un-fancy X45CrMoV15 kitchen knives pretty sharp on the first go. It is soft enough as to be already visibly dished.

However I have a stupid question! I have no whetstone holders, as I balance my razor hones on what I have to hand, which is a collection of vibration damping hi-fi footers. But when you start heavying a knife on there something sturdier is in order lest it collapses or bounces across the table. I don't think whetstone holders will hold something this small plus I don't really want to buy one. What else can I use to hold my silly tiny koppa on place while whaling away at a knife on it?

Glad to hear my old vid is still proving useful. And yep - your stone sounds like it should be pretty decent for knives. Also for aesthtic polishing if ever you fall down that rabbit hole!

A damp tea towel should hold most things in place very well. Or any kind of matting made out of rubber.

 

[Steve56]

I know that tou said that you don’t want to buy anything, but sooner or later - likely sooner - you’ll need and want a proper way to hold a stone, especially under knife pressure and especially if you start thinning/polishing them. Here’s a summary of some good solutions, both pricy and cheap.

1. Shapton Pro holder. Probably the best stone holder made, though it does not work with all stones. For most bench stones it’s excellent and you can flip it over and use the back as a rubber block for many stones. Pricy.

2. A sink bridge, many of them don’t have to be used on a sink and they can accommodate very large and small stones, down to about a couple of inches. Prices vary but the one shown was around $40 US.

3. A 1” rubber jeweler’s block. Excellent for small stones as long as the stone back is reasonably flat, and you can put two end-to-end for full size hones. Not expensive. There are many variations of the rubber block. You can put non-slip shelf liner on a piece of glass, tile, or wood and that works fine and is dirt cheap. You can cut up a non-skid plastic floor mat and that also works, people sell these pieces. Many conventional stone holders can be flipped over and used as a rubber block

 

[Legion]

I know that tou said that you don’t want to buy anything, but sooner or later - likely sooner - you’ll need and want a proper way to hold a stone, especially under knife pressure and especially if you start thinning/polishing them. Here’s a summary of some good solutions, both pricy and cheap.

1. Shapton Pro holder. Probably the best stone holder made, though it does not work with all stones. For most bench stones it’s excellent and you can flip it over and use the back as a rubber block for many stones. Pricy.

2. A sink bridge, many of them don’t have to be used on a sink and they can accommodate very large and small stones, down to about a couple of inches. Prices vary but the one shown was around $40 US.

3. A 1” rubber jeweler’s block. Excellent for small stones as long as the stone back is reasonably flat, and you can put two end-to-end for full size hones. Not expensive. There are many variations of the rubber block. You can put non-slip shelf liner on a piece of glass, tile, or wood and that works fine and is dirt cheap. You can cut up a non-skid plastic floor mat and that also works, people sell these pieces. Many conventional stone holders can be flipped over and used as a rubber block


View attachment 1766737View attachment 1766738View attachment 1766741View attachment 1766742

For water stones I really like silicone drying mats. Holds everything nice and steady, and catches all the drips.

 

[Southbound1]

I know that tou said that you don’t want to buy anything, but sooner or later - likely sooner - you’ll need and want a proper way to hold a stone, especially under knife pressure and especially if you start thinning/polishing them. Here’s a summary of some good solutions, both pricy and cheap.

1. Shapton Pro holder. Probably the best stone holder made, though it does not work with all stones. For most bench stones it’s excellent and you can flip it over and use the back as a rubber block for many stones. Pricy.

2. A sink bridge, many of them don’t have to be used on a sink and they can accommodate very large and small stones, down to about a couple of inches. Prices vary but the one shown was around $40 US.

3. A 1” rubber jeweler’s block. Excellent for small stones as long as the stone back is reasonably flat, and you can put two end-to-end for full size hones. Not expensive. There are many variations of the rubber block. You can put non-slip shelf liner on a piece of glass, tile, or wood and that works fine and is dirt cheap. You can cut up a non-skid plastic floor mat and that also works, people sell these pieces. Many conventional stone holders can be flipped over and used as a rubber block


View attachment 1766737View attachment 1766738View attachment 1766741View attachment 1766742

Hey Man,
How are you? I see a holder missing above
Is it not worthy anymore,lol ??

Just kidding . Mine will probably never be available again.

 

[Steve56]

Hey Man,
How are you? I see a holder missing above
Is it not worthy anymore,lol ??

Just kidding . Mine will probably never be available again.

Hey Mike, good to see you!

The reason that I didn’t post it is because it isn’t available so it isn’t an option for him. I use mine every day thwt I sharpen..

I’m glad you made the aluminum one that wide ….

 

[Southbound1]

Hey Mike, good to see you!

The reason that I didn’t post it is because it isn’t available so it isn’t an option for him. I use mine every day thwt I sharpen..

I’m glad you made the aluminum one that wide ….

View attachment 1766962

Good to hear from you. I was only kidding, about the holders. when i said it would not be available anymore. I mean the three i made is probably most likely it.

 

[rhgg2]

I know that tou said that you don’t want to buy anything, but sooner or later - likely sooner - you’ll need and want a proper way to hold a stone, especially under knife pressure and especially if you start thinning/polishing them. Here’s a summary of some good solutions, both pricy and cheap.

1. Shapton Pro holder. Probably the best stone holder made, though it does not work with all stones. For most bench stones it’s excellent and you can flip it over and use the back as a rubber block for many stones. Pricy.

2. A sink bridge, many of them don’t have to be used on a sink and they can accommodate very large and small stones, down to about a couple of inches. Prices vary but the one shown was around $40 US.

3. A 1” rubber jeweler’s block. Excellent for small stones as long as the stone back is reasonably flat, and you can put two end-to-end for full size hones. Not expensive. There are many variations of the rubber block. You can put non-slip shelf liner on a piece of glass, tile, or wood and that works fine and is dirt cheap. You can cut up a non-skid plastic floor mat and that also works, people sell these pieces. Many conventional stone holders can be flipped over and used as a rubber block


View attachment 1766737View attachment 1766738View attachment 1766741View attachment 1766742

Thanks! I found two 3x4x1 neoprene blocks for $15AU which will do the job nicely.

 

[rhgg2]

So I did end up getting a whetstone holder. The Shapton Pro wasn't baller enough for me:

With adjustable levelling feet for those awkward wonky 40 cuts!