I got the Poor Man Strop from Strops | WhippedDog - https://www.whippeddog.com/strops. It came with chromium oxide and iron oxide pouches. I've been using one side of the strop (I think the non-suede side) for the past few months but it's no longer maintaining a sharp-enough edge. Is it a good idea to put the oxide on the other side of the strop? If it isn't a good idea, what do you suggest? From my research, the reviews are a bit mixed on this.
Should I put chromium/iron oxide on back of strop?
- Thread starter SidebandTwigDucky
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rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
I'm not a great believer in using any pasted strops as I find them a bit too inconsistent. Some others may swear by them.
All blade edges that are only maintained with clean leather stropping require refreshing after about 100 or so shaves.
I would suggest that you look into using diamond pasted balsa strops. 0.5u to 0.25u and finish on 0.1u. then maintain on 0.1u hanging balsa with clean leather stropping.
All blade edges that are only maintained with clean leather stropping require refreshing after about 100 or so shaves.
I would suggest that you look into using diamond pasted balsa strops. 0.5u to 0.25u and finish on 0.1u. then maintain on 0.1u hanging balsa with clean leather stropping.
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I think you mean that stropping on leather alone is no longer keeping your razor sharp enough for you(?). If that's the case, you can try a pasted strop to bring your razor back. It may or may not work- the edge might be too far gone, might not be. Personally, I don't paste my hanging strops-too messy, as the red and green oxides are normally mixed with mineral oil and they can stain. I have a small separate piece of leather glued to a small 5" piece of wood I use occasionally with iron oxide. But, I'm not really a pasted strop guy. I'd rather spend a few minutes on a stone(s). If you have an old belt with a small good flat section, even on the back of the belt, that might be a better option to try than your hanging strop. Once you paste a strop that's it- no going back. I think the green oxide is usually a little coarser than the red. Lots of folks use a piece of sanded/flattened balsa for a pasted strop, rather than leather. Perhaps, someone who uses pastes a lot will come along soon.
I wouldn't do that to the unfinished side of any strop, or use the unfinished side, pasted or not. it's too irregular, and I have to assume it would make things worse.
did you also get a piece of balsa with a green and red side to it? Larry used to send those out, with the powder pouches to refresh the balsa as pasrt of the poor man's strop kit.
I've used balsa with CrOx (the green), FeOx (the red), with CBN sprays, and diamond paste; as part of a honing progression or touch up. I've never used a pasted leather component, hanging or paddle.
the commonly accepted knowledge is that pasted hanging strops convex the edge as you use it to refresh the edge, and eventually, you need to go back to a progression on a flat surface, be it a stone, lapping film, or what have you. I don't know that pasted leather paddle strops don't either, if only on a slower progression.
your razor needs a touch up, per your description. and I assume you don't hone yet. you should read "The Method" by Slash McCoy for the easiest, most foolproof, least expensive means of maintaining your own razor if you do it his way. or find a reputable honer to do it.
I can promise you this though, the longer you go shaving on a deteriorating edge, the lower in grit you'll have to go to get it back to shave ready. and the less you'll enjoy the experience until you do.
did you also get a piece of balsa with a green and red side to it? Larry used to send those out, with the powder pouches to refresh the balsa as pasrt of the poor man's strop kit.
I've used balsa with CrOx (the green), FeOx (the red), with CBN sprays, and diamond paste; as part of a honing progression or touch up. I've never used a pasted leather component, hanging or paddle.
the commonly accepted knowledge is that pasted hanging strops convex the edge as you use it to refresh the edge, and eventually, you need to go back to a progression on a flat surface, be it a stone, lapping film, or what have you. I don't know that pasted leather paddle strops don't either, if only on a slower progression.
your razor needs a touch up, per your description. and I assume you don't hone yet. you should read "The Method" by Slash McCoy for the easiest, most foolproof, least expensive means of maintaining your own razor if you do it his way. or find a reputable honer to do it.
I can promise you this though, the longer you go shaving on a deteriorating edge, the lower in grit you'll have to go to get it back to shave ready. and the less you'll enjoy the experience until you do.
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I wax both linen and leather backsides. Having done so for forty years, I’ve never encountered a problem in using it to polish and refine edges just off a finishing stone, or refresh one between trips to the stone? Taught me by barbers, it has served me well.
If you like the Poor Man strop, pick up another. Sand the surface of the one you have to 120x-180x, using garnet sandpaper to obtain some tooth, vacuum off the debris, and load one of the pigments into the sanded leather. To load the pigment, blend it with a little olive oil or mineral oil to create a light paste before applying.
Me, I'm a big fan of the red and black Solingen crayon pastes, which I think are based on red and black iron oxide pigments. I've used these, particularly the black paste, to keep an edge going, via touch-ups, for well over a year.
Not many laps are needed with pasted strops. I normally do 3 short, laterally-biased laps to clear the edge, followed by no more than 8 X-stroke laps using most of the strop's length.
Me, I'm a big fan of the red and black Solingen crayon pastes, which I think are based on red and black iron oxide pigments. I've used these, particularly the black paste, to keep an edge going, via touch-ups, for well over a year.
Not many laps are needed with pasted strops. I normally do 3 short, laterally-biased laps to clear the edge, followed by no more than 8 X-stroke laps using most of the strop's length.
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I totally agree with @Alum of Potash 's approach.
A lightly napped leather or a smooth leather works much better with pastes. Suede is too inconsistent.
Personally I nap them to a much higher level. The Red is OK on the grit described but I would recommend 1000 grit for the black.
Remember the red Solingen is not FerOx its coarser so don't get them confused.
@Alum of Potash is spot on with the dilution and lap count, however I would suggest doubling the count with stainless razors. YMMV
A lightly napped leather or a smooth leather works much better with pastes. Suede is too inconsistent.
Personally I nap them to a much higher level. The Red is OK on the grit described but I would recommend 1000 grit for the black.
Remember the red Solingen is not FerOx its coarser so don't get them confused.
@Alum of Potash is spot on with the dilution and lap count, however I would suggest doubling the count with stainless razors. YMMV
Personally I don’t like the idea of putting abrasives on the same strop that I’m using for daily maintenance of my straight. It’s to easy for that stuff to get where you don’t want it.
I use dedicated strops for my compounds
All those^^^^or something like them can be had from Heirloomstrops, The Superior Shave, or RazorEmporium.
Also there are options on Etsy.
But the most affordable option I’ve found is from chefknivestogo.
On the left is balsa and on the right is denim. They are magnet backed so you’ll need something to mount them on (at least for the denim). If it were me I would go for
denim with chromium or iron oxide.
I use dedicated strops for my compounds
All those^^^^or something like them can be had from Heirloomstrops, The Superior Shave, or RazorEmporium.
Also there are options on Etsy.
But the most affordable option I’ve found is from chefknivestogo.
On the left is balsa and on the right is denim. They are magnet backed so you’ll need something to mount them on (at least for the denim). If it were me I would go for
denim with chromium or iron oxide.
I am like @HVenture138 and have a dedicated webbed strop with paste on it, rather then the linen and leather I use every pre-post shave.
With that said, I hate the feel of a blade off a pasted strop, and stopped using them years ago!
With that said, I hate the feel of a blade off a pasted strop, and stopped using them years ago!
As mentioned, I wouldn't use the rough side of the hanging strop. If you decide to go the pasted route, you can add a linen/cloth and add the paste to that. Alternatively, just get a separate leather table strop. WhippedDog sells one (8*3) for only $10. Amazon has some as well that come with the compound too.
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