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Shoe Maintenance For A Complete Noob

garyg

B&B membership has its percs
Is there any advantage to the split version? I have 1 pair of those as well that were my dads.

I have both types, looking at them it seems the split version is designed to spread out to fit fatter shoes (like my dress shoes) when pressure is put on the shaft when forcing them into a shoe - they expand laterally. SO theoretically they fit a wider forefoot better. That's my guess
 

johnniegold

"Got Shoes?"
Brushes, brushes, brushes.

I agree that several horse hair brushes are necessary because you certainly don’t want a different color from any residual paste/wax/cream going on to a different color shoe. A few brushes dedicated to a few colors is best.

The goat hair brush is very soft, think super badger, while a horse hair brush might be a best badger. The pig bristle brush is the scritchiest so think pure badger.

The goat hair brush is just for a light brushing used mainly on shoes that have recently been polished and you don’t want to disturb the finish but you want to lightly dust off just prior to or just after wearing them.

The horse hair brush is the “workhorse” brush. Used during polishing or brushing off salt, dirt, dust or just to bring up the luster of the leather a bit.

The pig bristle is used more for grainy leather as the stiffer bristles ensure full coverage over the leather. And, it can also be used to dust off your suede shoes and freshen up the nap of the suede.

The yak hair brush is for those who just want to burn some cash. (I do not have a yak hair brush 😀). The yak hair brush is supposedly very dense and soft (usually described as being between horse and goat in softness) and most often utilized as a finishing brush to obtain a high finish.

With the horse hair brushes, after several uses, I will spray them very lightly with water and work them over an old towel to try and clean them a bit.


Like most things we find around here at B&B, you can keep it pretty basic and you’ll have a fine shoe maintenance kit or you can go hog (or horse or yak) wild and before you know it…. 🤪
 
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Tirvine

ancient grey sweatophile
IMO the number one error in shoe maintenance is the combined overuse of wax and underuse of the brush. Brush your shoes well and often. Also, the prep school shoe shine, used when the parents come to visit, kicking off a shoe and shining it with the sock on your other foot, is remarkably effective. The small amount of natural oils in the sock will be good for your shoes. Certain leathers, notably Chromexcel, have a good bit of natural oil in them. A good brushing brings it out. I have cordovan and Chromexcel shoes that get only minimal polish on them when the welts look untidy. Otherwise, they gleam with only brushing from an ancient Kiwi horse hair brush.
 
Great info. I have a box just like that that was a thrift store rescue.

I have 4 horse hair brushes one each for Black/Cordovan/Drk Brown/Light Brown polishes.

I too am a Bicks #4 fan.

I have stripped off polish on a cheaper pair of shoes with solid results as they had a "spray tan" finish. I confess, I have never done so on any other shoes.

I suspect I polish with creme polishes (exclusively now, no longer using Lincoln wax) every 8-10 wears. I always had shoes that looked better than most of my contemporaries given my affinity for Allen Edmonds. My shoes have gone to a higher level since Feb 2020 as I have had the time and the interest to buy quality products and use them. I now simply refuse to wear a leather shoe that is not obviously well shined. Period.End of subject. Full stop.

All dress shoes/boots are on cedar shoes trees and in cotton bags. My casual stuff are on plastic ones.

Last nuggets:

a. never wear the same pair of shoes 2x days in a row unless you are on the road or it is a matter of safety.

b. alternating two pair of shoes will make them both last at least 25% longer than if you wear one pair into the ground and then buy and wear another.
 

Tirvine

ancient grey sweatophile
This thread inspired me to bin the black polish. I have not had black shoes in ages. It was pretty dry. I also discovered two pretty full cans of neutral. I guess I don't use much polish. I think I could probably get by most of the time with only edge dressing and the horse hair brush.
 

Toothpick

Needs milk and a bidet!
Staff member
I’m thinking my black shoe days are over. I currently do not own a pair of all black shoes (motorcycle shoes aside). I know they have their place but I find the dark browns, tans, sands, etc just look nicer.
 
Undoubtedly, non black dress shoes have become exponentially more popular particularly as professional dressing norms have moved away from the matching suit model to a jacket and tie to sports coat and slacks to sports coat and khakis to sportcoat and jeans in many work spaces.

Having said that, I am a "right tool for the job" kind of guy and having a one pair of obviously shined black lace up shoes in the stable seems reasonable to me.
 

johnniegold

"Got Shoes?"
Not giving up on them just yet.

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Seeing how Bick 4 got a bit of play in this thread, I have an 8 oz. bottle enroute.
 

Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
I’m thinking my black shoe days are over.

I am a "right tool for the job" kind of guy and having a one pair of obviously shined black lace up shoes in the stable seems reasonable to me.

I'm a bit of a traditionalist who says every man ought to have one pair of decent black shoes, for wearing to funerals, court appearances, date night with the wife, and various evening social events.

Are there certain social circles where this would be overkill? Probably. But that'll be the exception rather than the rule, and all things considered, owning one pair of black leather shoes isn't a significant infringement on one's finances in this day and age.
 

AimlessWanderer

Remember to forget me!
Brown shoes work with many things, but black shoes work with everything.I'll always have at least one pair of black leather. Currently, there's more than one.

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garyg

B&B membership has its percs
I'm with those who hang onto some black shoes - resale ain't much, these hark back to a position once held where a sport coat with tie was considered casual and frowned upon there .. they don't get out much anymore, though at this age the funerals are increasing ..

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johnniegold

"Got Shoes?"
Bick 4. Good stuff. :thumbup1:
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With the temps heading into the 70’s next week, it’s time to get the Top Siders in shape.
 

Toothpick

Needs milk and a bidet!
Staff member
I betcha the Town Views would benefit from that as well. I been wearing mine outside. So far so good. My driveway is gravel and surprisingly walking on it in the mocs doesn’t feel that bad.
 
This is a radical idea but why not replace what your Dad had in the box with the same stuff. As you said he kept his shoes looking sharp so he must have known what he was doing. I used a lot of black Kiwi back in the days when GI boots were black.
 
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