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Shell Cordovan Strops DIY

Speedy stitcher arrived. I'm working on the dish drying or honing mat. It's slow going but looks like it's going to work. I'm going to show the first two pieces together and then run it through the wash and make sure the stitches hold... In the end I think I'll make it six sections so I'll be five total Rows of stitching probably a couple hours work.
 

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First line of stitches done, one needle broken. I've got one more straight needle left hopefully I can be more careful in the future.
 

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Trawling through eBay I happened to see a seller selling Spanish Shell Cordovan Leather.

Looking at the pics I thought it can’t be, because the shape was all wrong, not the usual oval shape.

I contacted the seller and he explained that the tannery in Spain does not cut the shell part out of the leather, as the rest is also good quality leather. He sent me photos of the back and you can clearly see where the shell is. It’s the darker colour. Found it interesting enough to order a hide as the price was considerably cheaper than what I have seen before. The leather arrived and although it’s nice, it’s a lot more waxy/oily than what I saw on the other shell cordovan. When you stretch it, it discolours a bit as the oils move within the leather, making me think it may be a different tanning process. To me it looks like a chromexcel process.

I have also seen a few Spanish Shell Cordovan strops for sale on Etsy.

Went ahead and made a strop. It has a lot more draw than my previous one and it is not bad, but clearly not the same quality. Not as consistent and uniform. Feels a bit stretchy, can't see it lasting long.

In short, I would not recommend it for strops, better off sticking to the expensive stuff. Still, it's beautiful leather, will make great wallets and other projects, so not a total waste.

Learned a lot about leather with this project!

This is the back of the hide:
D0496E74-843D-4946-89D6-F896CF781FAB.jpeg


Finished side:
9E2F121F-0B01-4A83-8255-E04F5E6E14C0.jpeg
 
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Shell Cordovan is an equine leather made from the fibrous flat connective tissue (or shell) beneath the hide on the rump of the horse. (Quoted from wikipedia). I don't think the top grain classification is valid for shell, like it is for typical leather.

I am speculating, but in the above example I would think the whole rump hide is removed, tanned and then skimmed or shaved to expose the shell beneath.
 
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Yes, I know what shell is and that is why I typed/asked that because it looks more like (a) top grain with hair and (b) not split from the hide.

I didn’t type much so maybe confusing, but do you think they may have sold a very poor (holes and poor stain) section of horse hide? I’ve seen videos of shells being cut out and they didn’t start like that piece you showed.

On the flip side, is it more fibrous like the fleshed side of leather?
 
Since this has been bumped, figured I'd post up my honing mat I made from the nylon firehose with the speedy stitcher.


~16.5"x27.5", waterproof, nonslip. Pretty useful.
 

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Yes, I know what shell is and that is why I typed/asked that because it looks more like (a) top grain with hair and (b) not split from the hide.

I didn’t type much so maybe confusing, but do you think they may have sold a very poor (holes and poor stain) section of horse hide? I’ve seen videos of shells being cut out and they didn’t start like that piece you showed.

On the flip side, is it more fibrous like the fleshed side of leather?
No doubt in my mind that it is shell, the darker part of it. It has the feel of being very smooth, hard, almost nylon consistency. On the reverse side it has no suede, almost the same as on the finished side. Comparing it to the previous one, it would seem like they shaved all of the suede/fleshy side off, so that makes it thinner and therefore more prone to stretching. Like I said, not ideal for strops.

Reverse side of the strop:
shell.jpg
 
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I have been using the Spanish Cordovan strop since making it, to give it a fair test. Quick calculation showed that I am at about 3000 laps on it.

When I started I expected the strop to start cupping because it is so thin, but so far, no indication of cupping. It does stretch easily, but it is elastic and returns back to it's original form.

Like I said, it has a draw that is a lot heavier than the English Cordovan because the tanning process is clearly different. A lot waxier. When you stretch it by pushing with your finger from the back, it temporarily changes colour, becoming lighter as the oils within the leather move around. I would compare the draw to Russian leather.

About a week ago I started using the English Cordovan strop, just to maintain it, and frankly because I like it a lot more. Effortless smooth, almost plastic feel to it. Took me a few days to realise that my shave is not the same as I have experienced over the last 40 days, just slightly rougher and not so comfortable.

When a single shave is a bit below par, I don't pay much attention to it, but after 5 shaves all similar, I got a bit suspicious. Surely my favourite strop can't be the problem?

Back to the Spanish Cordovan and the issue disappeared immediately. Three shaves later I have to reluctantly admit that the heavier draw does a better job for the same amount of laps. Maybe it's the fact that it is so thin and stretchy that makes it conform to the edge. Maybe what I disliked about it when I started is actually what makes it better.

Annoying when what seems to be lesser quality, gives better results!

This is what I enjoy about Straight Razor shaving - learning all the time, and noticing small variations that make a difference.
 
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Where are you guys buying the D-Rings and screws? I have a 70" latigo leather really nice but am having a bear of a time finding hardware. I plan on making myself a few strops 3 maybe for travel. This is my first time just can't seem to find where to buy the hardware.
I am in the UK and 2 inch (50mm) D Rings and swivel clasps are plentiful on eBay. The screws you are looking for are called Chicago screws. Depending on the thickness of the leather you use you can choose different lengths, they have to be slightly shorter than your total thickness to make sure they grip.
 
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