Shaving with and against the grain. Maybe not a good idea

[JohnThorpe1]

below is quote from a BBC news article (Should men shave their faces up or down?)
“Shaving against the grain usually produces a closer shave and faster results - but is also more likely to cause irritation than shaving with the grain, says Matthew Gass from the British Association of Dermatologists. The speedier method can also lead to razor burn, ingrown hairs and even scarring, he adds. Around the neck in particular, the direction of the hair is not always obvious, so it's important to take one's time”

I have just started to use Oneblade Genesis having for years used disposables.
I have watched the videos were the emphasis is on 2/3 passes both with and against the grain. And am following the video advice.
My face has irritation and having read the BBC article I am asking myself why don’t I just go with the grain.
Surely with a descent razor with a new blade every shave why not go with the grain. Yes I know it will not be as close but from a practical point of view if shaving daily it’s going to be close enough.

 

[martym]

Socially Acceptable Shave and a work acceptable shave is all I shoot for.
Once in a while everything lines up perfectly and I keep going and get rewarded with a baby butt smooth shave.
It works for me and you gotta do what works for you.

 

[Iloverootbeer]

It will take some time for your skin to get used to this way of shaving, but eventually it will. It took my skin about a month to fully adjust.

 

[RayClem]

If you are tying to shave one pass ATG, I can understand why that might produce a fast, close shave, but with irritation. The recommendation you will hear most frequently around here is shave for beard reduction rather than beard removal. It is best to reduce your beard gradually using multiple passes until you get as close as you want it to be. The problem with a one-pass shave is that the tendency is to apply excessive pressure in order to get a close shave in that one pass. Unless your skin is as tough as elephant hide, shaving with pressure can cause irritation.

I have a tough beard and sensitive skin. Sometimes I shave with only two passes, WTG and then either XTG or ATG. Sometimes I want BBS and will shave three full passes and then a fourth cleanup pass. As long as a use the correct shave angle, minimal shave pressure, a good blade in the razor, and lather my face with an excellent soap, I have no issue with irritation. However, if any one of those elements is lacking, irritation is certain.

 

[Twelvefret]

I've read similar recommendations from dermatologists.

 

[RumpleBearskin]

I take those "professional" recommendations with a grain of salt as I believe they are written from a "general population sample" perspective.

If I were to shave dry with a single ATG pass using a disposable, I'll likely see irritation and even scarring over time. But I don't do that. I prep, I lather, I do "beard reduction" (with three passes daily including an ATG pass), I do post-shave, and I've acquired and use quality tools. So I do not shave like the "average Joe" and my results will not likely align with his.

Irritation? No. Scarring? ... Well... I did start using straight razors about a year ago...

 

[ackvil]

Shaving up or down is not the issue. The real issue is WTG and ATG which can be in any direction. For example, on the lower part of my left neck the grain grows down to up. On my right side of the neck it grows left to right. Also, the article may be based on a multi-blade cartridge razor.

 

[sarimento1]

below is quote from a BBC news article (Should men shave their faces up or down?)
“Shaving against the grain usually produces a closer shave and faster results - but is also more likely to cause irritation than shaving with the grain, says Matthew Gass from the British Association of Dermatologists. The speedier method can also lead to razor burn, ingrown hairs and even scarring, he adds. Around the neck in particular, the direction of the hair is not always obvious, so it's important to take one's time”

I have just started to use Oneblade Genesis having for years used disposables.
I have watched the videos were the emphasis is on 2/3 passes both with and against the grain. And am following the video advice.
My face has irritation and having read the BBC article I am asking myself why don’t I just go with the grain.
Surely with a descent razor with a new blade every shave why not go with the grain. Yes I know it will not be as close but from a practical point of view if shaving daily it’s going to be close enough.

Welcome to B&B, Sir John!!

Tell us, what is your shave prep???

 

[BigJ]

Shaving up or down is not the issue. The real issue is WTG and ATG which can be in any direction. For example, on the lower part of my left neck the grain grows down to up. On my right side of the neck it grows left to right. Also, the article may be based on a multi-blade cartridge razor.

+1! Yes indeed!! You need to map your beard to understand your pattern of growth!

 

[Twelvefret]

+1! Yes indeed!! You need to map your beard to understand your pattern of growth!

Yes, this is the correct way to shave. Map and know the growth direction and shave accordingly. If you do, any razor will work if the blade is sharp.

I just used a PAA Alpha Ecliptic this morning with a multi use Astra being out of town. The prep was a cold water splash and stinky Arko stick.....LOL. My post beard process is Aqua Velva. I doubt the bourgeoisie shavers with their superior accouterments could have scored higher than my proletariat kit.

 

[olegunnar]

Very individual if your face can take ATG or not I have read. What I find irritates my skin sometimes is semi short 1 day growth that maybe lays flat and rubs against the skin. The whiskers are sharp too obviously because they have been shaved by a razor. So for me it seems ATG can help against irritation with that the shave last longer and are more on the safe side of itchy phase the next morning. Just my thoughts and am probably wrong and I am not a dermatologist.